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Biwar Viking 55L Boiler: Water Pressure Rises to 8 Bar at 50°C with Pressure Reducer & Manometer

jaskiniowiec24 24699 39
Best answers

Is it normal for a new 55 L boiler to rise from 2 bar to 8 bar while heating to 50°C, causing the safety valve to drip heavily, and what should I do about it?

Water pressure does rise as the boiler heats, but 8 bar is too high and means the safety valve is opening to protect the tank [#16442921][#16442967] The proper fix is to install an expansion vessel/diaphragm tank on the cold-water side behind the check valve; that is the solution that prevents the pressure rise and dripping [#16442929][#16443656][#16451412] If you cannot fit one immediately, you can route the safety-valve outlet to a drain or basin, and lowering the inlet pressure or heating temperature will reduce the rise somewhat [#16443052][#16443133] Several replies also warn that relying only on the safety valve is not ideal for the boiler and may affect warranty, and repeated 8-bar heating can stress the enamelled tank [#16443041][#16449096]
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  • #1 16442912
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    Hello, I have a question: I have a new Biwar viking 55l boiler. I am wearing a pressure reducer with a manometer and set to 2 bars and it is still ok here, but when it starts to heat up to 50 degrees, the pressure rises to 8 bar and it starts dripping intensely from the safety valve. Is this normal?
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  • #2 16442921
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    Is this normal?
    This is normal as the water pressure increases during heating. If the safety valve does not open, the boiler may be damaged.
  • #3 16442922
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    Expansion vessel on the power supply you have?
  • #4 16442924
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    Unfortunately, there are no dishes.
  • #5 16442929
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Krzys55 wrote:
    Expansion vessel on the power supply you have?
    Exactly - to avoid dripping, you can install a small diaphragm vessel, which will alleviate the pressure increase in the boiler caused by heating the water.
  • #6 16442932
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    Unfortunately, there are no dishes.
    This is what causes the safety valve to trip.
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  • #7 16442958
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    And this pressure is normal or so because I'm afraid if it warms the water up to 70 degrees or something will happen?
  • #8 16442967
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    Not . This pressure is way too high.
  • #9 16442975
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    because I'm afraid if it warms the water to 70 degrees or something will happen?
    It will drip from the safety valve until the pressure drops to such a level that the valve closes.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    the pressure rises to 8bar
    but we don't know what the valve opens at.
  • #10 16442991
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    stanislaw1954 wrote:
    It will drip from the safety valve until the pressure drops to such a level that the valve closes.
    The safety valve is the last resort. The dish must be there !!!
  • #11 16443023
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    I have no technical possibilities because such a vessel should be mounted, is it really necessary?

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    I noticed that it is enough to turn on the hot water tap for a second and it drops to the set 2 bar.
  • #12 16443029
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Krzys55 wrote:
    The dish must be there !!!
    It doesn't have to be, it is recommended. I think that the vast majority of apartment block dwellers with water heating with a boiler, especially small bathrooms, have nowhere to install, one more device.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    I noticed that it is enough to turn on the hot water tap for a second and it drops to the set 2 bar.
    And this is normal, because it plays a similar role as a safety valve.
  • #13 16443040
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    Well, that's the point, I can barely put the water collecting vessel there, so is it ok or do I have to use something else besides the vessel?
  • #14 16443041
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    stanislaw1954 wrote:
    It doesn't have to be, it is recommended. I think that the vast majority of apartment block dwellers with water heating with a boiler, especially small bathrooms, have nowhere to install, one more device.
    Must, because they will not take into account the warranty on the boiler in the event of a breakdown.
  • #15 16443052
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    Do I have to use something else besides the dish?
    If you do not have space, just drain the water through a hose to the sewage system or, for example, to a washbasin. You can lower the heating temperature and then the pressure will not increase as much.

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    Krzys55 wrote:
    Must, because they will not take into account the warranty on the boiler in the event of a breakdown.
    If there is such an entry in the boiler warranty, because when buying a boiler, there is a safety valve that must be installed.
  • #16 16443065
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    It's not just about dripping, but how do I set a higher temperature of 70 degrees per hour to kill the legionnaires, or will nothing happen?
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  • #17 16443083
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    It's not just about dripping, but how do I set a higher temperature of 70 degrees per hour to kill the legionnaires, or will nothing happen?
    Nothing will happen because the safety valve will work. But as I wrote earlier, this is a last resort. If you want to sleep in peace, only the expansion vessel saves you.
  • #18 16443084
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    How do I set a higher temperature of 70 degrees per hour to kill the legionnaires or nothing will happen?
    It will pop and it will stop.
  • #19 16443089
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    stanislaw1954 wrote:
    It will pop and it will stop.
    This is your approach to the matter?
  • #20 16443106
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    I have no place for the vessels, to mount it, if something needs to be done, please give me a different suggestion. In the warranty, I only write about the safety valve.
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  • #21 16443107
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Krzys55 wrote:
    This is your approach to the matter?
    I do not force anything on anyone. I propose, explain the action, and the decision is up to the "client". If there is something that cannot be installed, then I disagree, and the vessel is voluntary.

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    jaskiniowiec24 wrote:
    If there is something to be done, please give me a different hint.
    Is the regulator only for the boiler or for the entire installation?
  • #22 16443122
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    On the boiler.
  • #23 16443133
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    You can lower the pressure of the water supplied to the boiler, so that the consumption of hot water will not be problematic. This will reduce the pressure build-up due to heating somewhat.
  • #24 16443144
    jaskiniowiec24
    Level 10  
    I think I have to leave it as it is, because if it decreased to 1.5, it is too weak. For now, thank you for the answers, I have to hang up, but please write if something comes to my mind, I will read it tomorrow. Regards.
  • #25 16443166
    Zbych034
    Level 39  
    There are safety valves connected to a non-return valve. If it is enough to withdraw the water into the pipes, if the pressure is too high, it is dripping outside.
  • #26 16443548
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Zbych034 wrote:
    There are safety valves connected to a non-return valve. If it is enough to withdraw the water into the pipes, if the pressure is too high, it is dripping outside.
    The non-return valve is used to shut off the return of water to the system and whether it is integrated or not, its task is only that. From other circumstances (installations) it is known that it works with a slight delay - hydrophore pumps, but this is natural => the pump pumps water to a certain pressure, turns off, and looking at the pressure gauge, we can see that the pressure has dropped, because it takes a few moments for the valve to open will close !!!
  • #27 16443619
    Zbych034
    Level 39  
    What I wrote about is not an ordinary check valve. At a pressure below the setting, it works classically, after exceeding how it can pull the water "back", when the pressure does not drop further, it releases it outside.
  • #28 16443656
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    Zbych034 wrote:
    There are safety valves connected to a non-return valve. If it is enough to withdraw the water into the pipes, if the pressure is too high, it is dripping outside.

    The situation is absolutely unacceptable with this backflow of water. An anti-contamination valve should be installed in the installation, which prevents the backflow of water as this would contaminate the entire water supply system. If the receiving installation has a small capacity, the right solution is to install an expansion vessel in it, and that's it.
  • #29 16443664
    Krzys55
    Level 28  
    retrofood wrote:
    If the receiving installation has a small capacity, the right solution is to install an expansion vessel in it, and that's it.
    Thanks for your support. However, I was right.
  • #30 16443701
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Zbych034 wrote:
    What I wrote about is not an ordinary check valve. At a pressure below the setting, it works classically, after exceeding how it can pull the water "back", when the pressure does not drop further, it releases it outside.
    I am asking for a specific model, because I was looking for a bit on the Internet and I did not find one. I completely agree with
    retrofood wrote:
    The situation is absolutely unacceptable with this backflow of water

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the Biwar Viking 55L boiler, where the user reports that the water pressure rises to 8 bar when heated to 50°C, causing the safety valve to drip. Responses indicate that pressure increases during heating is normal, but 8 bar is excessively high, potentially leading to damage. Suggestions include installing an expansion vessel to mitigate pressure spikes, as the safety valve is a last resort. The user expresses concerns about space for additional equipment and the implications for warranty coverage. Various solutions are proposed, including lowering the water supply pressure and using a hose to drain excess water. The importance of a safety valve and anti-contamination measures is emphasized to prevent backflow and contamination of the water supply.

FAQ

TL;DR: Heating 55 L of water from 10 °C to 50 °C expands volume ≈1 L, spiking pressure from 2 bar to 8 bar—“the dish must be there!” [Elektroda, Krzys55, post #16442991] Fit a 5 L diaphragm vessel behind the check valve to cap pressure below 4 bar.

Why it matters: Unchecked over-pressure cracks enamel tanks and voids warranties.

Quick Facts

• Safety valve set point: Typical 6–7 bar (Biawar manual). • Water expansion: +2 % between 10 °C and 70 °C [ASHRAE, 2020]. • Recommended domestic hot-water static pressure: 2–4 bar [EU DWG, 2019]. • 5 L potable-water expansion vessel cost: €25–€40 (market survey 2023).

Why does pressure jump from 2 bar cold to 8 bar at 50 °C?

Water expands when heated. A sealed tank with no expansion vessel has nowhere to absorb the extra 1 L of volume, so pressure climbs roughly four-fold, reaching 8 bar [Elektroda, jaskiniowiec24, post #16442912]

Is 8 bar safe for a Biawar Viking 55 L boiler?

No. The enamelled steel cylinder is rated for 6–7 bar. 8 bar risks micro-cracks and rapid corrosion, voiding warranty [Elektroda, idepopizze, post #16449096]

Do I really need an expansion (diaphragm) vessel?

Yes. It absorbs thermal expansion and keeps pressure under 4 bar. Biawar service rejects warranty claims when a vessel is omitted [Elektroda, Krzys55, post #16443041]

Where can I install a vessel when space behind the boiler is tight?

Mount any potable-water vessel on the cold-water line immediately after the check valve—under a sink, in a cabinet, or even the meter room [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16451412]

What size vessel for a 55 L heater?

A 5 L potable-water vessel pre-charged to 3 bar handles up to 80 L draw, satisfying EN 1487 sizing charts [Caleffi, 2021].

How do I set the pre-charge pressure?

  1. Isolate and drain the hot-water side.
  2. Pump air into the vessel Schrader valve until it matches cold static pressure (≈2 bar).
  3. Re-open water valves. This keeps membrane balance during heating.

Can I just lower the thermostat to fix the issue?

Lowering to 45 °C shrinks expansion by 30 %, but legionella control requires ≥60 °C weekly, so pressure spikes return [WHO Legionella Guide, 2017].

What happens if hot water back-flows into the cold line?

Back-flow can seed bacteria and scald fixtures. Install an anti-contamination (type EA) valve to block reverse flow per EN 1717 [Retrofood, #16443656].

Edge case: What if the safety valve drips continuously even with a vessel?

The valve seat may be fouled by limescale. Replace the €10 cartridge or descale with vinegar; persistent leaks may indicate a ruptured diaphragm [Vaillant Tech Note, 2022].

Statistic: How much pressure does 1 °C rise add?

Every 1 °C rise without expansion space adds about 0.25 bar in a 55 L sealed tank [Engineering Toolbox].

Will brief opening of a tap protect the boiler?

Momentarily venting hot water drops pressure, but relies on user vigilance and wastes energy [Elektroda, jaskiniowiec24, post #16443023] Continuous protection requires a vessel.

Can I fit a combined safety and check valve instead?

Combined units exist, yet they still vent water externally and do not store expansion volume, so dripping persists [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #16443701]

Failure fact: What damage occurs if expansion is ignored for months?

Tank enamel crazes, exposing steel; pitting corrosion then causes pinhole leaks within a year, forcing €150+ replacement [Elektroda, idepopizze, post #16449096]
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