Yamaha DT125: Checking & Understanding AC Current Levels in Motorcycle Battery Charging

Hello. I had a small problem with electronics that I managed to solve, but in the meantime I talked to the gentleman from the electronics store and told me to check on a fired motorcycle there is sometimes no AC current, it should show 0volt. I solved the problem, but I checked it out of curiosity and the meter showed around 26 volts, is everything okay, should there be something like that?
the motorcycle is a yamaha dt125

arkosw wrote:

I solved the problem,

I wonder what the problem, because this whole post is nonsense. The alternating current occurs only at the output of the alternator, otherwise the magnet.

Developing the post higher in the old bikes, the alternating current went to the rectifier and came out as a constant directional, and then to the regulator that did not allow the 14.4v to be exceeded.
In new constructions, both functions are performed by modol.
Many people confuse the concept of alternating variable and in addition they think that direct current is always rigid 12v, so you kind of heard stupid things.

lukaszooo wrote:

direct current is always rigid 12v

You also write nonsense yourself. We give the current in amps, not volts.

It's easy to guess that it's about tension.

lukaszooo wrote:

Developing the post higher in the old bikes, the alternating current went to the rectifier and came out as a constant directional, and then to the regulator that did not allow the 14.4v to be exceeded.
In new constructions, both functions are performed by modol.
Many people confuse the concept of alternating variable and in addition they think that direct current is always rigid 12v, so you kind of heard stupid things.

Nonsense. This "motorbike" has a power generator, print it like Chinese scooters and other "ride-ons". Similar, if not identical, voltage regulators with a charging section and a front lamp power section are used. The voltage on the battery cannot exceed 14.4V in any case, or it will be destroyed.

I will not say. The concept of DT 125 is as general as eg BMW 320. Only knowing the model code can we say something, because DT 125 was of many types, and each differed in stator and ignition. They had alternator lights and battery lights depending on the year.

@robokop Basic TWO solutions - high beam powered directly from the "alternator", the rest from the battery charged through the rectifier - regulator (Module type 1), or EVERYTHING powered from the battery then Module type 2. Of course, it also differs in the design of the magnet.

Hello. You do not believe so I am sending the photo. Direct current when the motor is lit 12.2-13.5 (depending on the engine speed) and alternating current from 26 to 28/29 volts
the installation looks like that from the magnet goes to the regulator and from the regulator to the battery.
And unfortunately this is not nonsense: /
And I would like to add that I already have a 3 ignition module installed, is it possible that these modules are burning? (the battery cable is connected to the module)
What's happening? Broken regulator?
Ps. dtr version, and the lighting has a separate coil and "installations"

arkosw wrote:

What's happening? Broken regulator

No, no idea about electrical metrology, and "cabbage" multimeter. This is happening.

Cheap Unit meters and counterfeit Unit meters are exactly 2x the result when testing DC voltage in the AC voltage range.

Unless so, and skipping the topic of alternating current, what could be the reason why the modules are burning? Is there an option that it is the regulator's fault?

arkosw wrote:

what could be causing the modules to burn?

Wrong selection of the controller module, wrong connections, battery at the end of its life or in the scrap

The modules are made in China, so it's normal for them to burn. In addition, it is to work for a while and recharge the battery, discharged with the starter when starting - that is, for a short time. And in practice, some of the "battery" installation is loaded with strange lights, lamps, halogens, etc. - the front lamp should also have a 35W light bulb, and 55/60 halogens - so it's not surprising that the whole thing is raining. And if you add to it the eternal flooding and muddy conditions, as in the case of trial motorcycles - then you should be surprised why there is no such thing. It is also interesting that the motorcycle electronics in these devices are interestingly protected against overvoltage - transil, or cheeky zener diode parallel to the power supply, sometimes a varistor - in front of it a resistor that is to burn like a fuse, or an smd diode that is to be unsoldered and fall off - so nothing new under the sun ...

I meant the ignition module, not the voltage regulator.

arkosw wrote:

I meant the ignition module, not the voltage regulator.

If the ignition is magneto-driven (not powered by the battery), it is due to the quality of the modules or the wrong selection.
If battery powered then as above + causes resulting from simultaneous inoperability of the voltage regulator and the battery (which results in pins in the ignition supply or increased supply voltage).