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Charging batteries from PV and other sources with simultaneous energy reception.

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  • #1 16512946
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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    #2 16513217
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    1. Any controller.
    2. It does the motorhome's electric block.
    3. It fixes the alternator.
    4. These functions are handled by the electric block and converter. To have automatic switching of 230V receivers between the inverter and power supply from the outside, use an inverter like mine.

    Does this motorhome have an electric block? You plan it anyway or you don't know it. Elektroblock is such a switchboard. Usually from Schaudt.
    First, write us what the electroblock has. And start the whole project from the beginning, after considering its existence / non-existence. In my opinion, you are overwhelmed because you do not mention the electric block and the existing installation. Like you would never have done camper electronics in your life.

    My Hymerek has flexible panels and a Votronic MPP 350W controller that charges both engine and bodywork batteries. Votronic sine converter that automatically shuts off after connecting a 230V extension cable. The electroblock does the rest.
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  • #3 16513227
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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    #4 16513253
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    inverter
    http://votronic.de/index.php/en/products2/sine-inverters/standard-version/smi-300-nvs
    Regulator
    http://votronic.de/index.php/en/products2/sol...trollers/standard-version-mpp/mpp-350-duo-dig
    Or Chinese Tracer also very good and much cheaper.


    As water indicators you can e.g. this
    http://votronic.de/index.php/en/products/level-measuring/combi-panels

    But Votronic is an expensive company. I suggest some cheap Chinese inverter. Tracer regulator. Make a switchgear with fuses for everything. In general it will be hard for you. If you were a camper user and gouge, you would know what's going on. If you don't know, your chances are zero unless you waste a lot of time studying. You do not mention the issue of powering the refrigerator, hot water, water tank level indicators and sewage. It will be really hard without an electroblock.

    Therefore, maybe start with buying a new electroblock?
    E.g. here for 1800.
    http://allegro.pl/elektroblok-ebl-208-panel-wskaznik-kena-wroclaw-i6841403421.html

    Once you mount it and everything works, then you will add solars with a regulator and inverter. For now, get rid of the solar panels and inverter. It will only be at the end.
  • #5 16513275
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #6 16513296
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    atom1477 wrote:
    What in this whole system would prevent exceeding the maximum charging current?

    Maximum voltage of each charger.
    For example, the regulator is set to 14.4V and that's it. Elektroblock also has some setting. Probably 14.4V to AGM. If several chargers tried to charge it at once, the voltage will increase and stop. While driving, solar charging usually turns off, but not always. I connect to the power grid only in winter, and then the sun does not matter.
  • #7 16513306
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #8 16513327
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    It will not exceed the maximum current. Maybe because my battery is almost never fully discharged? If it is heavily discharged and goes e.g. 20A / 240W from solar panels, then after starting the engine and normal driving charging from solar panels decreases e.g. to 100W. It happens automagically and I have never thought about it.
    Charging mode does not matter. I don't have to have a fully charged AGM constantly. It is enough if it is not heavily discharged and is charged to the end almost every day by driving the alternator or by stopping the solar.
    It just works. And now :)
    The Votronic regulator is 120-200EUR and I have not seen more expensive and better ones and I have been to Tracera and I have tested it many times. Votronic has support for several types of lead and LiFePO4 batteries. I don't think you would do better.
    Why do you need a system that works constantly? Where should this energy go? I will go 120W to the fridge when I force it manually or the solar controller will switch on itself via AES.
    Why should I connect 230V if the sun is shining or I'm going? It doesn't make sense. 230V is connected at a standstill especially in autumn and winter, but then we do not start the engine because what for? The manual probably even prohibits starting the engine while connected to 230V.
    So in practice I have a situation that the alternator charges mainly the engine battery and the bodywork, and at the same time the solar tries to help him but turns off quite quickly allowing the alternator to charge. At standstill 230V keeps charged batteries and solar is also bored.
    I don't understand what your problem is.
    You write about some flaws, but these are your dry theories because you have never ridden a camper. :-) These problems do not exist. It just works.

    Let's imagine that we want to exceed the maximum charging current. It will be very difficult. If the battery has discharged after a night and we start in the morning, it will be charged from the alternator because the solar panels do not give power yet. If in the afternoon, the solar panels have already charged him a bit and the alternator will do the rest. Connecting 230V in the morning it will be charged from 230V, and in the afternoon it has already been charged with solar panels. I do not know how to exceed the maximum current. It is almost impossible. If this happens, it will be a temporary situation and it is unlikely to happen again.
  • #9 16513330
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #10 16513345
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    atom1477 wrote:
    The problem is that charging mainly goes from the solar and not from the alternator.
    And you come out that it is so.
    The solution would be only what you describe, i.e. giving up loading from many sources at once. Fortunately, it's not for me so I'll see what the owner of the motorhome will say.

    Charging which battery?
    I would like that too, but it doesn't work. You would have to limit the tension and then you will be undercharged during cloudy days.
    It only annoys me when having a fridge switched to 12V and full sun I see that the energy goes from the alternator instead of solar. This type has it and in the name of simplification of design and priority of long life and high battery level, we devote energy from solar panels to fuel. Lost money is penny. There is no point in worrying about it.

    The solution may be to separate the bodywork circuit from the alternator while driving. This will be done by a solar controlled relay and an alternator signal. But I don't want to play it. I usually don't drive more than 300km / day.

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    atom1477 wrote:

    PS. You can link to "Votronic 120-200EUR" because I can't find anything like that? (I also tried to search without 200EUR assuming that this is the price :D )

    From 99 to 200 EUR
    http://www.ebay.de/itm/Votronic-MPP-Serie-165...lage-/142104415132?var=&hash=item2116154b9c:m : mNgl5dd0Redb7oMYQlInr4g
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  • #11 16513365
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #12 16513376
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    atom1477 wrote:

    So charging from the alternator also has to be. But the controller is to ensure that it goes a lot from the solar and only the remaining part of the alternator. Technical is absolutely possible. And it doesn't change anything about the battery charge. Energy redirection would be done not by reducing the voltage but by controlling the current capacity of the solar and alternator chargers.

    If you want to do it for an idea, try it. The economic sense is none. The switching relay has some chance to turn in saved fuel, but the controller rather never. It is better to spend this money on an additional battery or increasing the number of solar panels.
    In practice, batteries are simply always charged with some oversizing. To increase the energy recovery from solar panels I need to switch the fridge to 12V. There is more room here.
  • #13 16513381
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #14 16513386
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    atom1477 wrote:

    So 120 was also not part of the designation?
    Have you done more motorhomes or just your own?

    120 is the price. It turned out that the smallest ones cost from 100EUR. In my opinion, it's better to pay twice as much for Votronic than Tracer. Whoever puts these two regulators next to each other will understand how much they differ in their advancement.
    I only did mine. And everything works fully automatically.
    The next modifications will be Fantastic Vent, maybe heating and hot water control via bluetooth / SMS. In future inverter air conditioning as soon as there are mobile air conditioners. No one is producing yet.
  • #16 16524960
    Jan_Werbinski
    Level 33  
    hostii wrote:

    something for motorhome owners :) although the price does not encourage ....

    I watched it at the fair. An unnecessary gadget for me. With oversized energy solars, it's enough from March to October. Almost nobody is camping in the winter. And if so, the aggregate for 1000 does the trick. Efoy has a price from space. Requires dedicated fuel, which you need to have with you.
  • #17 16526270
    hostii
    Level 25  
    Jan_Werbinski wrote:
    Efoy has a price from space. Requires dedicated fuel, which you need to have with you.


    You buy the aggregate exactly and you still have a camper trailer :)
  • #18 17088014
    Dll
    Level 1  
    I would like to connect to the topic so as not to duplicate the topic.
    I bought a camper bus and would like to connect pv in addition. Generally, the "la strada" buildings charge two batteries, cars and hotel, I have located a rectifier that works securely as an external 230V connection, there is a 230v converter and ...
    .... such a tin
    The question is, can I connect a solar panel directly here or a panel to the controller and only here?
    I haven't started it yet because it's cold but you have some experience what exactly is it?

    Charging batteries from PV and other sources with simultaneous energy reception. Charging batteries from PV and other sources with simultaneous energy reception.
  • #19 17088361
    JESIOTR1
    Level 33  
    Jan_Werbinski wrote:
    It will not exceed the maximum current. Maybe because my battery is almost never fully discharged? If it is heavily discharged and goes e.g. 20A / 240W from solar panels, then after starting the engine and normal driving charging from solar panels decreases e.g. to 100W. It happens automagically and I have never thought about it.

    Such statements and others testify to the lack of knowledge of Ohm's law. First, I recommend classical electrical engineering, and then automation.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the complexities of setting up a photovoltaic (PV) system in a motorhome, specifically addressing the simultaneous charging of batteries from multiple sources: a 240W PV panel, a 230V AC network, and the vehicle's alternator. The user seeks advice on integrating these systems while ensuring battery protection against full discharge and managing energy reception for various 12V and 230V devices. Participants suggest using a dedicated electric block (electroblock) for automatic switching between power sources and recommend specific charging controllers and inverters, such as those from Votronic and Tracer. Concerns are raised about the potential issues of voltage regulation and current management when multiple chargers operate simultaneously. The conversation highlights the importance of understanding the electrical setup and the need for a robust system to handle the unique demands of a motorhome's power requirements.
Summary generated by the language model.
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