FAQ
TL;DR: Gray wind regulators draw 20 mA at idle; "The gray one has its own current of 20mA". Overheating at idle signals a fault. This FAQ helps 12V PV+wind owners connect controllers and diagnose issues. [Elektroda, MichałS, #19722800]
Why it matters: It shows how to combine PV and wind safely, avoid controller damage, and stop silent battery drain.
Quick Facts
- In-thread setup: ML 2420 solar controller (20 A/100 V) with a 12 V 100 Ah AGM battery. [Elektroda, Szymelek, post #18632259]
- Non-hybrid solar controllers can’t accept wind inputs; use a hybrid or a separate wind controller in parallel to the battery. [Elektroda, mongaz, post #18632301]
- Gray wind regulator standby draw is 20 mA; that’s too low to heat the housing. [Elektroda, MichałS, #19722800]
- Failure case: a damaged wind regulator drew 3.28 A at zero wind, heating up and discharging the battery. [Elektroda, renataandrzej, post #19723148]
- Never series-connect a 12–24 V turbine with PV into an inverter; risk immobilization and turbine short/burn. [Elektroda, MichałS, #19593017]
Can I connect my wind turbine to the ML 2420 solar controller input?
No. "This is not possible on this controller." Use a hybrid controller or a separate wind regulator. Connect the wind controller’s output in parallel to the battery. The solar ML2420 stays on the PV side. This topology keeps sources isolated and the battery protected. [Elektroda, mongaz, post #18632301]
Will two charge controllers fight if both are on one 12 V battery?
No. Each controller limits battery voltage to its setpoint. "Most turbine regulators … make an artificial load to slow it down and protect it." The PV controller disconnects panels if the battery exceeds the upper voltage. Their behaviors prevent conflict when wired in parallel. [Elektroda, mongaz, post #18633063]
How should I wire PV and wind together safely?
Follow this three-step approach:
- Connect your PV array to the ML2420 solar controller.
- Connect the turbine to its dedicated wind charge controller.
- Wire both controllers’ battery outputs in parallel to the same battery terminals.
This approach keeps charging logic separate and avoids cross-coupling between sources. [Elektroda, mongaz, post #18632301]
Why is my wind regulator hot and the battery draining with no wind?
A hot regulator with no wind points to internal failure. One user measured 3.28 A idle draw from a failed wind controller. That parasitic load will drain a 12 V 100 Ah battery quickly. Replace the defective wind regulator to stop the discharge and heating. [Elektroda, renataandrzej, post #19723148]
What standby current is normal for the gray wind regulator?
"The gray one has its own current of 20mA," which is normal. That current is too low to heat the case. If the housing warms at idle, suspect a fault. Measure idle draw with the turbine stopped for confirmation. Replace the unit if consumption is excessive. [Elektroda, MichałS, #19722800]
Can I put a 12–24 V turbine in series with PV to my inverter?
No. "You would immobilize the installation," and the turbine could short or burn. Series-connecting mismatched sources makes the turbine a load for the PV string. Keep the turbine isolated behind its wind controller and dump load circuit. Feed the inverter from the battery side only. [Elektroda, MichałS, #19593017]
Do I need dump-load braking on the wind side?
Yes. Wind controllers apply a dump load when wind is too turbulent or fast. "Most turbine regulators … make an artificial load to slow it down and protect it." This protects blades, alternator, and electronics from overspeed. Ensure your wind controller includes a specified dump load. [Elektroda, mongaz, post #18633063]
What happens when there’s sun and wind at the same time?
Both controllers will charge the same battery independently. The PV controller disconnects if the battery reaches its upper voltage limit. The wind controller will switch to dump load as needed for protection. These actions coordinate charging and prevent back-feeding between sources. [Elektroda, mongaz, post #18633063]
Can I add another 100 Ah battery to my 12 V bank?
You can add a parallel battery if it matches type and age. Ensure your charger capacity suits the larger bank. For AGM lead-acid, a typical target charge current is ~0.1C (about 10 A per 100 Ah). With less current, charging takes longer and may not reach absorption timely. “BU-403: Charging Lead Acid”
Is the orange “MPPT” wind regulator better than the gray version?
One user confirmed a faulty gray regulator drawing 3.28 A at idle. They planned to replace it with an orange “MPPT” unit, reporting it is said to be better. Classify this as anecdotal and verify specs and idle draw before purchase. [Elektroda, renataandrzej, post #19723148]
How do I test a wind regulator for abnormal idle consumption?
Stop the turbine and measure the regulator’s current draw from the battery. The gray version’s typical self-consumption is 20 mA. Heating at idle suggests a fault. Replace the unit if measured draw is far above the nominal figure. [Elektroda, MichałS, #19722800]
Can I use a PWM solar controller for PV while the wind has its own controller?
Yes. Keep each source on its dedicated controller and parallel their battery outputs. This method supports different technologies and control strategies. It also avoids controller conflicts. Use the PV controller for panels and a wind controller for the turbine. [Elektroda, mongaz, post #18632301]