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I am looking for a solution to remove heat from a portable air conditioner.

wertiko7 18717 8
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16528341
    wertiko7
    Level 14  
    Hello.
    I'm preparing to buy a portable air conditioner from sharp.
    But I may have a problem with the heat dissipation from this air conditioner, because I want to use it on the second level of the apartment, where I only have roof windows.

    So even if I put a pipe behind such a window, I will press the window to the max
    I will still have gaps in the window where the heat will be able to get inside.

    Do any of you have a similar problem? Do you have any solutions?

    And by the way - what could be the maximum length of the heat removal pipe?
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  • #2 16528377
    aaanteka
    Level 42  
    Generally, with heat output through the window is one of the most bad ideas. Even when using a properly fitted shutter, covering the gap.

    The most reasonable solution is to use a ventilation duct.
    If it is not there, then another solution should be used:

    - for example a specially made exhaust duct on the wall under the window, under the window sill. In winter the hole is properly "corked". There are suitable frames adapted for this purpose.
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  • #3 16528398
    wertiko7
    Level 14  
    And what can be the maximum length of the heat removal pipe?
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  • #4 16528476
    aaanteka
    Level 42  
    And here is the problem usually given a length of 1.5 -2.5 meters. There is nothing to use for longer, because the efficiency of air conditioning drops drastically (the pipe can heat up properly and we have "heating").
  • #5 16528593
    Plumpi
    Heating systems specialist
    There are special seals for the windows, such as a tape with a zipper. It sticks to the window sash and to the frame. He inserts the pipe between both parts of the zipper and slides so that only the pipe remains between the two parts of the zipper.
    But if you want to do it properly, it's just a hole in the wall or a ventilation duct.

    I will ask a little more perversely: don't you waste money on a device that works with very low efficiency?
    Such portable devices have an EER of 1.5-2.5
    Split air conditioners (outdoor and indoor unit) have an EER of 3.5 to over 5

    EER is the cooling efficiency coefficient.
    For example, a device with EER = 2.5 which is to generate 2.5kW of cooling power needs 1kW of electrical power.
    A device with EER = 5 which is to produce 2.5kW of cooling power needs 0.5kW of electrical power.

    The fact that you will not install it yourself, because you need a vacuum pump and an expander to make copper pipes and knowledge. But the cost of the service is about 800-1000 PLN. On the market you have quite cool and cheap Kaisai Focus air conditioners. The cost including assembly is 2.5-3 thousand. zł.

    But installing such an air conditioner will quickly pay for itself, because it will need to cool less than half of this electricity as this portable "penguin".
    In addition, during the transition period, before you start CO you can heat your apartment with such an air conditioner, and the cost of heating is lower than coal or gas. Even the majority of the heating season comes out with a cheaper air conditioner like coal, gas or wood.
    These Kaisaie have built-in WiFi. They can be programmed when they are to turn on or off, and for programming just a regular mobile phone or tablet with a pre-loaded application. You can also manage it remotely from home.
  • #6 16528611
    wertiko7
    Level 14  
    And are there such seals for skewed windows, i.e. skylights?

    Because I saw such additions to windows, but all this for ordinary simple non-combined windows.
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  • #7 16528647
    aaanteka
    Level 42  
    But these sealants are another reduction in efficiency - unfortunately they do not insulate properly in particular in the sunlight.
  • #8 16619931
    marek49ae
    Level 24  
    Plumpi wrote:
    On the market you have quite cool and cheap Kaisai Focus air conditioners.
    Such a small question about this air conditioning. The self-assembly model is available on the auction portal. So the factor is already in the system, just mount everything? And how about filling an empty system? Is the car air conditioning station able to handle this?
  • #9 16619983
    darek2121
    Level 12  
    In each air conditioner, the refrigerant is in the outdoor unit. Just connect the tubes. Before opening the valve, you need to create a vacuum mainly to get rid of moisture from the indoor unit and pipes, remove the air by the way, without a vacuum pump you will not do it, although there are magicians who before blowing fill the system with a small amount of medium and also work. But this method is a little ecological. Car air conditioning station will work very well.

Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the challenges of heat dissipation from a portable air conditioner, specifically a model from Sharp, when used in an apartment with roof windows. Users express concerns about the inefficiency of using a heat removal pipe through a window, suggesting alternatives such as a ventilation duct or a specially made exhaust duct installed in the wall. The maximum recommended length for the heat removal pipe is noted to be between 1.5 to 2.5 meters to maintain efficiency. Additionally, there are discussions about window seals, including those suitable for skylights, and the impact of sunlight on insulation effectiveness. The conversation also touches on the installation of self-assembly air conditioning units and the necessity of using a vacuum pump for proper refrigerant handling.
Summary generated by the language model.
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