Converting BOSCH GSR 24ve-2 Screwdriver to Corded: Correct Components & Cable Size?

Hello,
I have a BOSCH GSR 24ve-2 screwdriver. Batteries died, cost PLN 220. I would like to convert it to a "network" because it is efficient Reading a lot of topics on the electrode I read that I needed:
1. 24v transformer (mine works on 24v) transformer-24v-large-8a-functional-

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2. 25A rectifier bridge https://www.laro.com.pl/index.php5/sklep/mos_pro/1467
3. Kondensator 4700uf / 50V https://www.laro.com.pl/index.php5/sklep/kon_ele/555

questions:
1. Did I choose the right elements?
2. Without battery (lost in time and space) can you check which side is + and - on the screwdriver?
3. What is the best average cable to choose? I read that minimum 0.75mm

8A with a high load may not be enough, the cross-section depends on the current, I would give a minimum of 1.5.
Unfortunately, converting a cordless screwdriver into a mains screwdriver is not quite easy.

At first I thought it was a simple matter. However, when I started reading topics here in the forum, it was not so easy
One answer was also that if you don't have a transformer on hand (I don't have one, I will look for it, but I doubt that I have one) it's not worth doing. The screwdriver was very good (strong) and I assumed that it would be possible to bring it back to life as cheaply as possible.

rooneyasd wrote:

At first I thought it was a simple matter.

And you thought well. I have converted many screwdrivers into cable. Those on 12V work nicely on some ATX power supplies.

The whole philosophy is a suitable powerful transformer and bridge + cable thickness. Nothing more.
If you have nothing, the cost of such a conversion will be around PLN 100.

Batteries have fallen if there are two, check which batteries are sitting and make one good, often in the package one battery breaks the whole package.

You unscrew the screwdriver. You check the voltage at which the regulator is. You select the voltage from the transformer so that after straightening on the condenser without load it does not exceed the voltage of the regulator.

And what current did the screwdriver draw from the batteries?

A certain problem with the transformer system is that without a load from a 24V transformer you get from a 34V capacitor, and it is not known if this will damage the electronics that the screwdriver has. And making a voltage stabilizer is a lot of work.

Maybe the solution would be to buy a small gel battery for 24V? It will be much heavier than the original, but also much cheaper, and at the same time portable.

The battery life will be short.
I wrote how to choose a transformer. It makes no sense.
Power consumption approx. 15A.

It would probably fit a transformer on 17V ~ (nominal voltage, 24V = after rectification), and for a 15A current it should be from 350W ... it will be heavy, and the power of the screwdriver will be much less than when powered from 24 = from the battery. 12V 7Ah batteries are used in UPSs (2 pieces connected in series), where they are loaded similarly to this screwdriver, and get out of old age rather than from too hard work. The best in terms of parameters probably would be a switched mode power supply, just like in a PC, but with 24V output voltage and 400W power.

You don't read my posts.
Idle 30V.
Periodic load, just 150W is enough. Not so big.
Read the gel parameters.
Declared capacity at 20 hour load.
Discharge currents 15A for what capacity, permissible for cyclic operation?
Ups buffering, not cyclical work.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

An 18V screwdriver.
Trafo 150W, idle 24V dc, under heavy load of 17V.

And what shows that idle can be 30V?

It would be a 21V transformer; average voltage 19V, at 150W power and 15A load, average voltage would decrease to 16V.

And I'm curious how such a screwdriver works with pulsating voltage, because 4700uF will not smooth 15A ...

Gel parameters are declared for different discharge currents, the entire list is in the catalog note - for 15A the capacity will be much smaller than at 0.35A (this is nominal), but in UPS they are so loaded, and the battery lasts for 15 minutes at full load. The power supply of the screwdriver will probably be better for it than the UPS, because it will not be loaded all the time, which could overheat it. These batteries allow both buffer and cyclical operation, the difference is in the method of charging.

The 24V battery has 28V after charging. 18V screwdriver adjuster
has a max operating voltage of 24V, i.e. at least 30V, he had to check.
I installed a 2200 capacitor and the screwdriver is ok.
Gel 7Ah lasted six months and fell.
Since when is the battery in the upset constantly charged?

It is right that the "24V" battery may have more when charged. But what should the questioner check? How should he know what voltage the regulator has?

In a UPS, the battery is usually charged from power outage to power. In the screwdriver a few seconds, and then there is a break.

Post 6. The regulator says on the voltage.
On my / 18V / writes 24V.

Hello,
Thank you very much for the hints.
So yes:
1. The case with the new battery is dropped. The screwdriver is very good, but the father does not want a battery. He bought it 2-3 years ago for a cable and is satisfied with this solution.
2. @zbi_gniew 400 I checked the stabilizer is 24V 12A Below I send pictures:


ps: Transistor designations p62ns04z.

So someone misses the truth. I know 18V and really 12V cases

Well, what transformer should I buy?

_jta_ wrote:

And I'm curious how such a screwdriver works with pulsating voltage, because 4700uF will not smooth 15A ...

Such values were given by one of the forum users from another topic. If you need I can buy a larger capacity.

Look for a 24V transformer around 200W with the possibility of secondary unwinding.

@zbi_gniew 400
Thank you Mr. Zbigniew for help. Everything works as it should
ps: A capacitor for this construction was used 10000uf
I close the topic.