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Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."

jimorrison 11445 17
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Why does the A/C compressor in a 2008 Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS not engage even though diagnostics show the A/C request and a pressure sensor signal?

The controller will not start the compressor if it believes system pressure is too low, and the diagnostic tool may be misleading because it can be showing a translated value or an incorrect pressure reading rather than the real bar pressure [#16645233][#16646299][#16646224] Check the actual refrigerant pressure with a dedicated A/C service gauge and verify the pressure sensor signal and wiring, because the engine controller is seeing the A/C request but still refuses to command the compressor [#16645491][#16646199][#16646507] In this thread, the ASO also saw the same readings and suspected the pressure sensor and expansion valve, but there was no confirmed fix and no guarantee that replacing those parts alone would solve it [#16661115]
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  • #1 16635646
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    forehead

    Patient:
    Suzuki Swift, year 2008, 1.3 ddis 75km engine (Fiat unit, also fitted in Opel).
    Manual air conditioning controlled by the 0/1 A / C button.
    Cart imported from DK, I will not determine the history of this case, there is nothing on the subject at first glance (I don't know Danish ;) ).

    Problem:
    The A / C button has no effect on the temperature of the grilles ...
    Ok, so the climate doesn't work.
    At first, it turns out that the electromagnet in the compressor clutch is broken, the clutch has been replaced.
    Then, it turns out that still no cool air is flowing from the air vents, so a visit to the air conditioning service plant (Klima-Car in Mysiadle near Warsaw). Diagnosis - low system pressure, tight system, fan not turning on. The effect, setting the gas to the correct pressure and checking the temperature when the system is turned on (fan replaced by cooling with cooling water), verdict - after removing the electrical problem with not turning on the fan, the air conditioning will be cooling. Suggestion to go to an electrician.
    COOL :)

    Then a short vacation, and after the vacation I work again with Swift. Test whether the radiator fan will turn on after the engine warms up (functional sensor of liquid temperature?) - effect - the fan works, lowers the temperature, turns off and continues to loop in accordance with temperature fluctuations. During this test, it released gas with the tester (green) through the valve on the compressor (WTF I think ... I didn't switch on the air conditioner).
    One more visit to Klima-Car and checking the pressure quickly, there is 5 bar (ok) in the system - the compressor safety valve has tripped. Why was the climate going on despite the A / C button off? It turns out that the compressor clutch is coupled with ignition.
    Thus, a visit to the electrician is getting closer (not only the fan not turning on but also the compressor clutch briefly after ignition for repair)

    Car led to an electrician who stated the following:
    - the cable pulled after ignition briefly started the air conditioning compressor bypassing the A / C button, unfortunately it turned on the compressor itself.
    The electrician brought this modification to its factory condition (i.e. eliminated it).

    To sum up, the ignition was on and the engine was working with the clutch running the compressor. In the absence of air flow through the radiator (work at standstill / traffic jam, without the fan turned on), the pressure increasing in the system was dropped by the safety valve on the compressor (luckily, it even worked and did not explode other elements of the system).
    Hence the low pressure during the first visit and diagnosis at Klima-Car (interestingly, the system did not burst the system for a short time - only the compressor clutch solenoid was consumed).

    The electrician checked the installation to the computer (GM 55563974, on the MJD 6O2.Y6 board) and read the parameters of the system (of course, through diagnostics, there were no errors from the air conditioning system group).
    Well, the computer "sees" the request to start the air conditioning from the button, correctly responds to the ON / OFF button A / C.
    The pressure sensor in the air conditioning system also supplies its parameter (voltage) to the computer (currently ~ 1.1-1.2V)
    The computer does not convert this voltage into bar pressure.
    Therefore, it does not turn on the compressor and fan.

    An attempt to manually supply a different voltage to a computer (simulating a different system pressure, 2V, 4V, 5V) remains completely unnoticed :( :( :( ...

    The situation is illustrated by the following pictures.
    Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."

    Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."

    Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."

    Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."

    And now the questions ... what else to look for and what to check in the system, what attachment point is left to activate this system on the factory beam? ...

    The computer visited GMS (global moto service sc) to check for possible burned paths. Unfortunately, he could not be diagnosed by Piotr Okoni on the table without passing through the OBD of the car (connecting to the diagnostic system), and verified the passage in the system, excluding computer defect under the electronic account.

    Questions ...
    Does anyone have knowledge, or does this type of computer have any air conditioning sewn in ?? :) (car downloaded from DK quite recently, seeing patents with cables, various ideas come to mind, what Danes used to say) ...
    Is there any other element in this system whose parameter is related to turning on the air conditioning, i.e. something else I should check / exclude ??

    I do not see the way out of the current situation, if we do not come up with anything together, the last solution will be to generate our own electric beam based on a pressure sensor, e.g. http://www.inter-instal.com/produkt/6000004-presostat-czujnik- air-conditioning-pressure-hp-and-mp-and-lp-male-external-4-pins and A / C button in the cabin, but this is the final resort that I would like to avoid even more because I don't know if any universal fit sensor for swift pipe thread.

    The guys from Klima-Car spread their hands, the electrics do not fuse, the electrician also folded after bringing the beam to the factory (suggesting a damaged or even without operating a klima computer). Piotr from GMS can't help too much anymore.
    In this case, I don't see the sense of going to an ASO, once because of the costs and two from experience of how an ASO works and approach "unusual" cases.

    Any idea?
    I will be obliged for any suggestions, hints, oh - fuses in working order :P :P :)


    Pozdr.
    Michael
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  • #2 16644065
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    No one has any sensible idea how to get out of this annoying defect?
    Is all that is left is to make a "new" alternative bundle ...?
    :(
  • #3 16644090
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #4 16644575
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    Bieda z nędzą wrote:
    You can see everything there, the demand for air conditioning is, but there is no approval. And there is no approval because the low pressure of the medium is seen.


    OK, so what is responsible for seeing too low pressure?
    A computer that does not convert voltage from a pressure sensor, is it a task of some separate element?
    Play with voltage (in the range of 1-5V) on the cable from the pressure sensor to the computer does not have the effect of changing pressure.
    The question in the first post of this thread is directed at the reason for seeing 0.00bar in the system.
    How to artificially increase this pressure to test the activation of the compressor relay and the fan?
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  • #5 16644694
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #6 16644717
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    Bieda z nędzą wrote:
    jimorrison wrote:

    OK, so what is responsible for seeing too low pressure?

    You make balls, don't you?


    No, not at all.
    As if I knew what the cause was, I wasn't looking for a solution on the electrode.

    Therefore? What is responsible for converting the voltage from the air conditioning pressure sensor to the actual pressure measured in bar?
    If this is a computer (previously mentioned - GM 55563974, on the MJD 6O2.Y6 board) please tell me where to look for the fault inside. As I mentioned above, he was on the table in GMS and the passage of this system has been checked - it is.
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  • #7 16645233
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    What is the voltage at the connected sensor and what at the disconnected?
    You connect this car to a universal tester.
    Maybe this value given in bars does not exist and this is the value shown only by this tester.
    Drive to the service, ask what engine driver it should be there, you can also connect to their computer and let them see if they see the same pressure, different or maybe only the voltage.
    At about 5V, the second fan should turn on to release pressure in the system.
  • #8 16645264
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #9 16645491
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    grala1 wrote:
    What is the voltage at the connected sensor and what at the disconnected?

    Connected sensor ~ 1.1V (as in the pictures above, the pressure in the system during tests 5bar, on a pressure gauge and not read from the diagnosis), ankle disconnected from the sensor, the parameter is reset.

    grala1 wrote:
    You connect this car to a universal tester.
    Maybe this value given in bars does not exist and this is the value shown only by this tester.

    Yes, the tester is universal, I cannot provide a specific type. You can see the interface in the pictures - maybe someone will know what kind of soft it is.

    grala1 wrote:
    Drive to the service, ask what engine driver it should be there, you can also connect to their computer and let them see if they see the same pressure, different or maybe only the voltage.

    This option was honestly rejected, doubting the substantive help of someone from the ASO due to the complex case: / one thing is certain, thinning the wallet strongly ;)

    grala1 wrote:
    At about 5V, the second fan should turn on to release pressure in the system.

    Artificially given 2, 4, 5V simulating voltage changes generated by the pressure sensor on the installation cube. No effect except a change in voltage in the diagnostic interface on a laptop connected to the car. The fan and compressor remained off.

    Bieda z nędzą wrote:
    Sensors come in two types, if we are talking about three-pin. One generates an analog signal, i.e. pressure / voltage. The second works by impulse, i.e. pressure / filling the waveform.

    The sensor is 3-pin, made in mexico (hehe ...) unfortunately I can't read any symbol from it.
    I am adding illustrative photos showing the sensor.
    Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."IMG_201708...161212.jpg (1.43 MB)You must be logged in to download this attachment. Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."IMG_201708...161220.jpg (1.43 MB)You must be logged in to download this attachment. Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDiS, 2008 "the climate is not working ..."IMG_201708...161231.jpg (1.63 MB)You must be logged in to download this attachment.

    Edit - symbol read - ordinary common GM sensor
    9131721
  • #10 16645870
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    How did you give these 2, 4, 5V exactly what you saw in the readings?
  • #11 16646078
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    grala1 wrote:
    How did you give these 2, 4, 5V exactly what you saw in the readings?

    It was like that.
    Photo for 5v in the first post.

    I drove today to Aso Suzuki (al. Krakowska w WWie), diagnosis / repair 250-500 depending on what the computer shows (not a swift, only on the way to reconnaissance).
    - The computer will not show anything because it does not spill errors in the area of air conditioning
    -You have to check it all the more.

    Advice on whether this computer is from the version with air conditioning will not provide.

    Can there still be any element in the system besides the engine controller that has not yet been checked?
  • #12 16646199
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    I think not. The pressure signal to the controller comes. He sees the request to turn on the air conditioning but does not turn it on.
    I was out of ideas.
    Maybe some temperature doesn't suit him.
  • #13 16646224
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #14 16646299
    grala1
    VAG group specialist
    Do you see that it was read by KTSem so it can be that the controller only sees the voltage and does not convert it to bars and therefore KTS gives 0 because there is no conversion from voltage to bars.
    I wrote about it earlier and also wrote to read it with something dedicated, it would not turn out that in fact the pressure is 0bar and a completely different sensor is simulated and the KTS has incorrect descriptions.
  • #15 16646302
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    Bieda z nędzą wrote:
    Photo 1, medium pressure 0 bar. No controller will start the compressor.

    I will come back with a question from the first post.
    Should the computer convert the voltage (which it receives from the sensor) to pressure (say 5bar) or is it a task for another system?

    Poverty with misery, can you give something more about the type of sensor after the GM number below? You wrote about two types before. Is there any sense to buy another sensor if giving 5V artificial voltage did not bring the expected effect?

    grala1, I have already run out of ideas :(
  • #16 16646507
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #17 16646552
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    Bieda z nędzą wrote:
    Either the engine control unit or the air conditioning panel. Look at the diagram. But here rather the engine driver.

    If these two are the first, the panel is only the A / C (manual) button.
  • #18 16661115
    jimorrison
    Level 11  
    forehead
    Refreshing the thread, but without a breakthrough :(

    Namely, the ASO computer shows analogous readings as above KTS (pictures).
    Any ASO suspected is a pressure sensor and expansion valve.
    However, the amounts that were proposed for the (original) parts were prohibitive enough that I took the car.
    The more that there was no guarantee of removing the defect after the installation of new ones, only eliminating these elements from the system.
    Unfortunately, it is not known whether this computer supports the climate (previous suspicions from the thread - is it a computer from this car) because they do not have such data.
    By the way, on the page: japancars.ru/suzuki/ I verified after Vin that the climate in the cart was factory :)
    And yes :-|

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a 2008 Suzuki Swift 1.3 DDIS experiencing air conditioning (A/C) issues. The A/C button fails to affect the temperature at the vents, leading to a diagnosis of low system pressure and a non-functioning fan. Initial repairs included replacing the compressor clutch, but the problem persisted. Users explore potential causes, including a faulty pressure sensor and the engine control unit's inability to convert voltage readings to pressure. Suggestions include testing the sensor's voltage output and considering the replacement of the pressure sensor and expansion valve. The discussion highlights the complexity of diagnosing A/C issues in this model, with users expressing frustration over the costs of potential repairs and the uncertainty of resolving the defect.
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FAQ

TL;DR: On the 2008 Swift 1.3 DDiS, a displayed “0 bar” blocks compressor start; as one expert put it, “No controller will start the compressor.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16646224]

Why it matters: If the ECU sees 0 bar from the A/C pressure signal, it will never energize the clutch or fans—fix the sensing path first.

Quick Facts

Why won’t my Swift’s A/C clutch engage even when I press the A/C button?

Because the controller ‘sees’ 0 bar medium pressure, it refuses to start the compressor. With 0 bar displayed, the ECU inhibits clutch and fan commands for protection. Fix the pressure signal path first (sensor, wiring, ECU input) before chasing other causes. “No controller will start the compressor.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16646224]

What pressure/voltage did the forum case show with the system charged?

With the system at about 5 bar on a gauge, the ECU still read a low‑pressure state. The A/C pressure sensor output seen by diagnostics was ~1.1–1.2 V, which the ECU treated as insufficient pressure, keeping the compressor off. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16635646]

Does this ECU actually convert sensor voltage to bar, or is the bar value a tester artifact?

A KTS reader showed 0 bar while voltage changed, suggesting the displayed bar value could be a tester-side conversion. A brand‑specific tool may show only voltage, not bar, on this ECU. As one tech advised, verify with a dedicated OEM scan. [Elektroda, grala1, post #16646299]

What happens if someone hard‑wires the compressor clutch to ignition?

The compressor runs whenever the engine runs, regardless of A/C logic. Without fan control at idle, system pressure rises until the compressor’s relief valve vents refrigerant. This can burn the clutch coil and risks component damage. Restore factory wiring before diagnostics. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16635646]

What ECU and pressure sensor part numbers appeared in this case?

The engine ECU mentioned was GM 55563974 on an MJD 6O2.Y6 board. The A/C pressure sensor identified later was a 3‑pin GM 9131721 unit. Matching these helps source correct wiring info and expected signal type during troubleshooting. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16645491]

Are 3‑pin A/C pressure sensors all analog?

No. One common 3‑pin type outputs an analog voltage proportional to pressure. Another uses a duty‑cycle (pulse) signal where waveform fill relates to pressure. Identify your sensor type before simulating signals or replacing parts. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16645264]

Will feeding 2–5 V into the signal wire force the Swift ECU to start the A/C?

In the thread, simulating 2, 4, and 5 V changed the scan reading but did not start the fan or clutch. That implies additional enable conditions or ECU logic blocked engagement. Voltage spoofing alone did not work there. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16645491]

Could a temperature input be preventing A/C operation even with pressure present?

Yes. A contributor noted the ECU might reject A/C if a temperature value is out of range. Verify engine coolant, intake air, and evaporator temperatures read plausibly before condemning hardware. [Elektroda, grala1, post #16646199]

At what signal level should the high‑speed fan cut in as pressure rises?

Guidance in the thread states that at about 5 V from the pressure signal, the second (higher) fan speed should engage to shed heat. “At about 5V, the second fan should turn on.” Use it as a functional check, not an absolute spec. [Elektroda, grala1, post #16645233]

Is the issue more likely the engine ECU or the manual A/C panel?

The manual panel mainly sends an A/C request. A contributor pointed to the engine ECU as the likely culprit when pressure and request are present but no engagement occurs. Check diagrams, then confirm ECU inputs/outputs. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16646507]

How much did a dealer quote for diagnosis in this case?

The Suzuki dealer mentioned PLN 250–500 for diagnosis/repair attempt. They noted the ECU may not log specific A/C faults, so billable time goes to live data checks and wiring. Budget for structured diagnostics. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16646078]

Could the car be missing factory A/C despite wiring oddities?

The VIN lookup cited confirmed the car originally had factory A/C. Aftermarket wiring changes in imports can confuse diagnosis, so verify factory equipment by VIN before parts swapping. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16661115]

What does the ECU report when the A/C button is pressed in this case?

Diagnostics showed the ECU sees the A/C ON/OFF request correctly. However, it did not translate the sensor voltage into a valid bar value, so it kept the compressor and fan off. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16635646]

Quick 3‑step: how do I sanity‑check the Swift’s A/C pressure signal path?

  1. Read live data: confirm ECU sees A/C request and shows sensor voltage.
  2. Measure the sensor pin: expect about 1–1.2 V at low pressure.
  3. Carefully simulate higher voltage and watch for commanded fan/clutch. Document results for ECU/wiring diagnosis. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16645491]

What’s an edge case that can mislead pressure diagnostics?

A scan tool may show 0 bar because it cannot convert that ECU’s voltage to pressure units. In such cases, rely on the raw voltage and a dedicated scan to judge pressure plausibility. [Elektroda, grala1, post #16646299]

Bottom line: what should I fix first on a no‑cool Swift like this?

Restore factory wiring, verify the correct 3‑pin sensor type, and confirm the ECU sees valid pressure/temperature inputs. Only then test outputs to the clutch and fan. Avoid bypassing the clutch to ignition to prevent relief‑valve venting. [Elektroda, jimorrison, post #16635646]
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