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[Solved] Skoda Octavia 2, 2.0 TDI 140HP - Damaged sensors High pressure air conditioning

dior3 17664 14
This content has been translated flag-pl » flag-en View the original version here.
  • #1
    dior3
    Level 10  
    Hello,
    My vehicle is:
    Skoda Octavia 2 from 2012. 2.0 tdi 103 KW, CFHC. Climatronic dual zone, DSG.

    I browse forums, including the electrode. I have read a lot but I still haven't found a solution for my problem.
    Namely, it began with a lack of air conditioning, i.e. inaction. Initial diagnostics has been done, namely:
    Checking the refrigerant content in the air conditioning service - No loss.
    Check. DELPHI diagnostic device - there were no faults
    Checking the air conditioning pressure - 5.2 bar at rest (when switching on the air conditioning from the button - no reaction)
    And because the compressor is DELPHI DH5 5K0 820 803 E 6CVC - one of the typical symptoms is the loosening of the M6 throttle screw (clutch), indeed the screw was unscrewed about 1-2 mm so I agreed in the workshop to replace the whole wheel with the clutch. And here the problems began. The gentlemen raised the mask, and did not listen to what I told them, just started checking the voltage tester on the compressor and sensors. After or took the car out of the hall and told me to go here next to another service and they would definitely help me because they are unable. So I wanted to go there, but I get in the car and my eyes appear flashing pictogram in yellow oiler, so I'm probably telling myself some inspection or mistake in reading the opening of the bonnet to refill oil. And here I was surprised, because after raising the mask with the ignition on and after 2 minutes. closing her problem persisted. I anticipate the question and say, there were no such faults before visiting that workshop. So go home and connect to another computer This time Laucher Tech with the X.431 PRO program. And after scanning such miracles:
    - high pressure sensor fault break / short to ground - B10AE14
    - air quality sensor fault, Air quality sensor signal cable - open / short to PLUS potential - B10A415
    - Temperature / oil level sensor fault - signal too long, high - B104135
    - Engine control unit - Fault memory reading - U101F00

    They cannot be deleted !!



    Well, I ordered an air conditioning pressure switch (switch) - 37 PLN, exchange, no change. (the old one did not show any resistance on the pins, the new one showed such resistance (I do not remember the value), I ordered a pulley with a vibration damper for the compressor 180 PLN, replacement and compressor turns, so glad I turn on the climate and here warm air from the vents. Well, I ordered a sensor air quality (original RECEIPT 1K0 907 659) waiting for delivery, and HELA was ordered - 95 PLN temperature / oil level sensor for the oil pan. The change and to my surprise did not help and only the description of the defect changed to the incorrect reading, and the next day again for too long signal. Voltages on pins from this sensor I did not measure, somehow I did not come up with this idea, but instead I came up with another idea and I checked the actual readings of this sensor and the temperature came out -72F, the oil level was correct. I poured fresh oil in a bottle and dipped the oil reader to the cable in the oil so that it replenished in the channel to Now I have doubts about these faults and I get the impression that the Professionals Professional have mixed up something with the electrician and I bet that they either ate something on the CAN or on the meter. As for the air conditioning, I am waiting for the delivery of the last sensor and it will turn out whether the air conditioning pressure sensor (switch) is associated with releasing voltage from the air quality sensor. That is, as quality over is damaged then part no pressure is applied because from what I read it should not matter and both systems are independent of each other (they have their own +). The signal has also been checked (voltage on the solenoid valve is there regardless of whether the engine is running or not 5 volt). After connecting the solenoid valve for a short time 12V pops, so I assume that it works unless the needle is not working and the high pressure cannot be opened.

    Has anyone had such a problem and knows the solution to at least one of these problems without having to turn off the oil sensor in the meter (inspection is still at 7,000), or are there any other oil temp sensors, e.g. in a DSG gearbox that is associated with showing the temperature MFA (the temperature in MFA was shown at the time of entering the hall of a slick workshop, because I like to control the parameters)

    Skoda Octavia 2, 2.0 TDI 140HP - Damaged sensors High pressure air conditioning
    Skoda Octavia 2, 2.0 TDI 140HP - Damaged sensors High pressure air conditioning
    Skoda Octavia 2, 2.0 TDI 140HP - Damaged sensors High pressure air conditioning


    Regards.
  • Helpful post
    #2
    T5
    Admin of Cars group
    Fuses are OK?
  • #3
    szymitsu21
    Moderator of Cars
    The pressure seen by the comp and the power consumption of the compressor control valve.
  • #4
    dior3
    Level 10  
    T5 - all fuses are OK, those on battery. as well as in the switchboard in the board. The fans turn on when the engine starts and the climate is on.
    Szynitsu21 - Pressure on the computer is 4.8 to 5.2, light waving in this range so I conclude that the pressure sensor is working, but this value does not change when the engine (compressor) is running.
    When switching on the solenoid valve for a short time, the pressure on the comp. When trying to start the air conditioner for a short time (opening the compressor solenoid valve with a battery impulse), the air conditioning controller fails and the warm air blows despite the setting below 18 degrees in dual. The flaps do not jam, they work without any problems during tests. Or maybe there is some surge protection in the controller? or some thermal that has been burnt?
  • Helpful post
    #5
    szymitsu21
    Moderator of Cars
    Compressor without clutch and valve on the back with 2 pins?
  • #6
    dior3
    Level 10  
    Szymitsu21 - as I wrote in the description, the compressor is DELPHI DH5 5K0 820 803 E 6CVC, in the front there is a wheel with a throttle, and on the back there is a solenoid valve with two pins Plus and Minus, controlling from what I remember (but I can be wrong) anvil opening high pressure. Diagram and illustrative photo of the wheel below. I mention that this compressor is permanently coupled to the V-wheel using a vibration damper and works together with the engine from the moment it is started all the time until the engine goes out. Only the solenoid valve switches the refrigerant circuit on high and low pressure (in low pressure the compressor cools down (this is how I read somewhere, and at high pressure the liquid is compressed into the system so that cold air flies. The compressor switching cycles in the compressor is 120 s for 120 p.
    Skoda Octavia 2, 2.0 TDI 140HP - Damaged sensors High pressure air conditioning
    Skoda Octavia 2, 2.0 TDI 140HP - Damaged sensors High pressure air conditioning
    Skoda Octavia 2, 2.0 TDI 140HP - Damaged sensors High pressure air conditioning
  • #7
    szymitsu21
    Moderator of Cars
    Check the power consumption of the control valve.

    Tester of course.
  • #8
    dior3
    Level 10  
    It is there regardless of whether the engine is running or the 5 volt ignition is on.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    ok i understand i misunderstood you sorka. There is no tester today, I have to borrow, so I will be able to check it in a week.
  • Helpful post
    #9
    szymitsu21
    Moderator of Cars
    dior3 wrote:
    It is there regardless of whether the engine is running or the 5 volt ignition is on.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    ok i understand i misunderstood you sorka. There is no tester today, I have to borrow, so I will be able to check it in a week.



    5v is for pressure sensor.
    The valve is PWM.
  • #10
    dior3
    Level 10  
    No, 5V is on the control valve (located on the back of the compressor), and there is no voltage on the pressure sensor (switch), it means 0.03V and 0.02-0.03mA. Measured with DPM meter. And here, as I wrote, I am curious if this sensor is signal-linked to the air quality sensor, i.e. whether the indications of this sensor are sent to the climatronics controller and turn the voltage on / off. And should there not be a constant voltage on the pressure sensor (+ - brown wire in the ankle, minus the weight on the car) and to what extent?
    Measurement with the engine running and climate on.
    Ps, what does PWM mean?
  • Helpful post
    #11
    szymitsu21
    Moderator of Cars
    There should be a 5v mass signal on the sensor.

    PWN is a control signal (duty cycle)
  • #12
    dior3
    Level 10  
    Well, there is not, as I wrote is 0.03v.
  • #13
    Kacperk950
    Level 1  
    Hello buddy, did you solve the problem? In my code I have the following problem (seems similar to yours). Namely, the compressor turns on. The compressor control set current is 0.820A when switched on, later it decreases to 0.500 as the engine warms up. Real current as per setpoint. Everything works at high pressures up to 18 bar at an outside temperature of 20 degrees. Cool as nice. The problem appears when turning the Climatronics off or turning off the car and firing again. Panel air vents windmills start but the compressor current disappears. Sometimes, if I switch to AC (off course) or the car stops overnight, the compressor will start. Set current 0.000A real current 0.025A when theoretically the current disappears.
    Now the most interesting error with such behavior of the compressor appears
    B10A915 Control AC compressor open circuit / short circuit plus positive error returns each time after reset sooner or later. If this is a discontinuous error, the compressor can be started when it snaps in and is a permanent error. For once, while driving, he changed status from permanent to discontinuous and the compressor started. The wiring harness to the compressor removed from the car is called by the meter is ok, cubes ok. High pressure sensor I have two and I replaced them both, so they work ok. Fuses ok. Compressor new. New condenser. Brand new. I don't know where else I can look for help
  • #14
    dior3
    Level 10  
    Hello,
    So yes, both problems are resolved.
    As for air conditioning, it turned out that as a result of the interference of gentlemen from a certain workshop to which I left the car, they burned me a temperature / oil level sensor. A new one from the original solved the matter, now the oil temperature is displayed on the MFA screen.
    Air conditioning - they burned the switch (pressure sensor), and in a strange way the 5A fuse in the board burned (it was checked several times and looked good).
    Not only that, gentlemen in this feler workshop pulled out the factor, but they pressed back only 100 g, and what I was told should be (I remember) 570 or 670 grams. Now the Klimatronic hula, you can say ice cubes are flying.
    So, to sum up:
    The fault was caused by a compressor's construction defect: a cut-off multi-wedge on the vibration throttle (clutch)
    Faults caused by "PROFESSIONALS", oil temperature / level sensor burnt, air conditioning switch burnt (pressure sensor), fuse 5A blown.
    suction of the factor without topping it up again.
    Buddy Kacper, replace the fuse in the board (on the left, the bacon is removed from the board with the door open, and it is probably 4 or 3 from the left. Maybe it does not touch or there are tarnished pins.
    But the switch in the panel itself may also be burnt out or damaged, so after pressing it several times it will surprise you. I recommend a visit to an electrician or checked air conditioning service. Without the right instruments, things can be difficult to solve, unless you have patience or time to repair.

    Regards.
  • #15
    dior3
    Level 10  
    Hello,
    So yes, both problems are resolved.
    As for air conditioning, it turned out that as a result of the interference of gentlemen from a certain workshop to which I left the car, they burned me a temperature / oil level sensor. A new one from the original solved the matter, now the oil temperature is displayed on the MFA screen.
    Air conditioning - they burned the switch (pressure sensor), and in a strange way the 5A fuse in the board burned (it was checked several times and looked good).
    Not only that, gentlemen in this feler workshop pulled out the factor, but they pressed back only 100 g, and what I was told should be (I remember) 570 or 670 grams. Now the Klimatronic hula, you can say ice cubes are flying.
    So, to sum up:
    The fault was caused by a compressor's construction defect: a cut-off multi-wedge on the vibration throttle (clutch)
    Faults caused by "PROFESSIONALS", oil temperature / level sensor burnt, air conditioning switch burnt (pressure sensor), fuse 5A blown.
    suction of the factor without topping it up again.
    Buddy Kacper, replace the fuse in the board (on the left, the bacon is removed from the board with the door open, and it is probably 4 or 3 from the left. Maybe it does not touch or there are tarnished pins.
    But the switch in the panel itself may also be burnt out or damaged, so after pressing it several times it will surprise you. I recommend a visit to an electrician or checked air conditioning service. Without the right instruments, things can be difficult to solve, unless you have patience or time to repair.

    Regards.

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    Hello,
    So yes, both problems are resolved.
    As for air conditioning, it turned out that as a result of the interference of gentlemen from a certain workshop to which I left the car, they burned me a temperature / oil level sensor. A new one from the original solved the matter, now the oil temperature is displayed on the MFA screen.
    Air conditioning - they burned the switch (pressure sensor), and in a strange way the 5A fuse in the board burned (it was checked several times and looked good).
    Not only that, gentlemen in this feler workshop pulled out the factor, but they pressed back only 100 g, and what I was told should be (I remember) 570 or 670 grams. Now the Klimatronic hula, you can say ice cubes are flying.
    So, to sum up:
    The fault was caused by a compressor's construction defect: a cut-off multi-wedge on the vibration throttle (clutch)
    Faults caused by "PROFESSIONALS", oil temperature / level sensor burnt, air conditioning switch burnt (pressure sensor), fuse 5A blown.
    suction of the factor without topping it up again.
    Buddy Kacper, replace the fuse in the board (on the left, the bacon is removed from the board with the door open, and it is probably 4 or 3 from the left. Maybe it does not touch or there are tarnished pins.
    But the switch in the panel itself may also be burnt out or damaged, so after pressing it several times it will surprise you. I recommend a visit to an electrician or checked air conditioning service. Without the right instruments, things can be difficult to solve, unless you have patience or time to repair.

    Regards.