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[Solved] Golf IV 1.4 AKQ - Sensor error G28, fires after a long shooting.

spinacz 23499 16
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How do I diagnose a VW Golf IV 1.4 AKQ G28 engine speed sensor no-signal fault, and should the ECU show RPM if I simulate the sensor signal?

Check the G28 sensor and its wiring first: pin 1 is +5 V, pin 2 is signal, and pin 3 is GND, and with a 5 V series resistor and LED the LED should blink while cranking [#16660975] On a bench setup with ECU power, tester, and a generator, the engine speed should be visible [#16661128] If the sensor and wiring are OK but there is still no signal, inspect the trigger ring/impulse transmitter on the gearbox side; there is a two-tooth gap in the crown, and a bad ring can look like the sensor is dead [#16662017][#16662050] One case was temporarily improved by pushing the sensor deeper into the gearbox, but the real repair was replacing the sealing collar with the ring impulse transmitter / transmission ring [#16660975][#17001809] When the sensors and ECU were replaced but the fault remained, changing the transmission ring finally fixed it, so the ECU is not the first suspect [#16675747][#17001809]
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  • #1 16660590
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Generally, I have a problem with the error 00513 engine speed sensor G28 03-00 No signal.
    I understand that it is about the shaft sensor, the sensor mentioned, the beam checked.
    There is nothing disturbing about ECU.
    If I give the signal from the generator in parameters, should I see the engine speed? Or is there a block corresponding to the value from the input of this sensor?
    Driver photos.
    Golf IV 1.4 AKQ - Sensor error G28, fires after a long shooting. Golf IV 1.4 AKQ - Sensor error G28, fires after a long shooting. Golf IV 1.4 AKQ - Sensor error G28, fires after a long shooting.
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  • Helpful post
    #2 16660975
    panstalin2
    Level 20  
    I had a similar case, replacing the sensor did nothing, helped to grip the sensor mounting so that it went deeper into the gearbox - but this solution lasted 3 months, later it was necessary to remove the gearbox and replace: sealing collar with ring impulse transmitter and auto rides.

    This is how it looks:

    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic1384247.html

    http://static.nanodatex.com/media/c95845335437c8a385b91dcaeaa10950.jpg



    The sensor is easy to check:
    sensor description
    1 + 5V
    2 signal
    3 GND

    With a 5V resistor in series LED to Pin No. 2, as you turn the starter it has a LED blink.
  • #3 16661037
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Well ok, but if it's the fault of the collar, I understand that despite the new sensor the diode will not show anything like that? and then only replacing the collar with the transmitter?
    Returning to the ECU how to check if the ECU is functional, having them on the table without any accessories?
  • #4 16661128
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    On the table, what about immo? But you can fasten the power supply, tester and generator. The revolutions should be visible.
  • #5 16661387
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Immo emulator and the error of the blocked controller disappears, ok tomorrow generator podepne.

    Added after 34 [minutes]:

    Ok, I connect the generator and the lime, I can not see the rotations or when I give a signal to the shaft sensor or to the shaft sensor.
    I do not have cars in front of me to check if the computer can see the speed when it starts in safe mode.
    The question is still regarding the lace from which the shaft sensor reads or are there all the teeth are the same whether a window is made eg the lack of two teeth?

    Added after 8 [minutes]:

    I am surprised that the error pops up immediately after switching on the power. There is no reaction, i.e. a change in error when I make a permanent entry with +5 or mass.
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  • #7 16662023
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    And how will it be the fault of the lace I understand that the symptom will also be a lack of blinking diode?
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    #8 16662050
    panstalin2
    Level 20  
    Yes
    The symptom is as if this lace has degaussed itself.
    There was no way to magnetize. I was already combining the neodymium magnet with a sensor socket and turning the starter without candles, but there is very little space
  • #9 16662230
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    spinacz wrote:
    I am surprised that the error pops up immediately after switching on the power. There is no reaction, i.e. a change in error when I make a permanent entry with +5 or mass.

    buy it. Maybe the helm is released ...
  • #10 16662269
    panstalin2
    Level 20  
    And comes to the 5 V sensor after ignition?
    There is some resistance between pin no. 2 and GND in the plug from the sensor?
    Check whether it has a transition from the controller to the sensor.
  • #11 16662828
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    5V, the beam ok, the rudder on the table does not react to either a short to ground or power supply, the error does not change. I also suspect the driver.
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  • #12 16665768
    panstalin2
    Level 20  
    From the sensor the middle pin according to pulses makes mass through npn.
  • #13 16668232
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Is the mass or impulse + 5V given to the input of the helm?

    Added after 26 [minutes]:

    Colleagues, or how will the transfer in this ECU eeprom be immo shifted?
  • #14 16669126
    panstalin2
    Level 20  
    The middle pin sensor massages to ground.
    You must have the ECU with the key from the ignition - just immo put it from the key to the old key.



    Moderated By T5:

    3.1.11. Do not send messages that do not contribute to the discussion. They are misleading, they are dangerous or they do not solve the user's problem.
    Warning.

  • #15 16669153
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    What are you saying nonsense? Immo put only the stone from the key? And pairing ecu with clocks? And pairing the pit with clocks? In the same way, this impulse is impulses to the 5V mass of a square wave.
  • #16 16675747
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    I close the subject, however, the ring on the sealer does not give a signal, the ECUs are replaced, the sensors are checked, the error is still, however, the ECU does not immediately see the mistake of the previous one just after the filming.
  • #17 17001809
    spinacz
    Level 42  
    Replacing the transmission ring has helped.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a persistent error related to the engine speed sensor G28 (error 00513) in a Golf IV 1.4 AKQ. Users share experiences with troubleshooting, including sensor replacement, checking the sensor's mounting, and verifying the ECU's functionality. Suggestions include using a 5V resistor to test the sensor's signal output and ensuring proper connections between the sensor and ECU. Issues with the sealing collar and the sensor's magnetic properties are also highlighted as potential causes for the error. Ultimately, replacing the transmission ring resolved the issue for one user, indicating that mechanical components can significantly impact sensor performance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: If your Golf IV 1.4 AKQ logs 00513 (G28 no signal), verify the sensor’s 5 V supply and the ring with a 2‑tooth gap—“There is a break for 2 teeth.” Replace the impulse ring if LED tests fail. [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16662017]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers diagnose no‑start/long‑crank issues tied to the G28 crank sensor and its trigger ring.

Quick Facts

What does fault code 00513/G28 mean on a Golf IV 1.4 AKQ?

It indicates the ECU does not see a crankshaft speed signal from the G28 sensor. The thread reports 00513 03‑00 “No signal.” This prevents accurate RPM detection and can cause extended cranking or a no‑start. The diagnosis centers on the sensor, wiring, ECU input, and the gearbox‑mounted impulse ring. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16660590]

What are the G28 sensor pinouts and signal type?

Pin 1 supplies +5 V to the sensor, pin 2 carries the signal, and pin 3 is ground. Using a 5 V LED test, the signal line should blink during cranking if the sensor and trigger are working. This confirms the sensor’s open‑collector style switching behavior. [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16660975]

How do I quickly test the G28 with an LED?

Use a series LED and resistor to +5 V, connect to pin 2 (signal) and ground on pin 3. 1) Turn ignition on. 2) Crank the engine; the LED should blink. 3) No blink suggests sensor, wiring, or trigger ring issues. “The sensor is easy to check.” [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16660975]

What trigger wheel pattern should I expect at the G28 sensor?

Expect a missing‑tooth window equal to two teeth. The sensor reads a toothed ring; the ECU interprets the two‑tooth gap to establish reference position and calculate RPM. A damaged or demagnetized ring disrupts this pattern and kills the RPM signal. “There is a break for 2 teeth.” [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16662017]

My 00513 error appears immediately at key‑on. Is that normal?

Yes, it can. The OP observed the fault popping up right after switching on power, with no change when shorting the signal to ground or +5 V. This behavior points away from simple wiring shorts and toward ECU input logic or a missing valid signal. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16661387]

I replaced the sensor and checked wiring. What should I inspect next?

Inspect the gearbox impulse ring and sealing collar. A deeper‑seated sensor may work temporarily, but the durable repair is replacing the collar with the ring. One case required gearbox removal to replace these parts for a lasting fix. [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16660975]

What finally fixed the OP’s car in this thread?

Replacing the transmission impulse ring solved the issue. After sensor swaps and ECU checks, the car still flagged 00513 until the ring was replaced. The final post confirms success: “Replacing the transmission ring has helped.” [Elektroda, spinacz, post #17001809]

Can I bench‑test the ECU and see RPM with a signal generator?

Yes. With proper power, a diagnostic tester, and a signal generator, you should see engine speed on the bench. Remember immobilizer considerations; use an emulator or matched key if needed before testing RPM inputs. “The revolutions should be visible.” [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #16661128]

On the bench, forcing +5 V or ground on the signal changes nothing. Is my ECU faulty?

It can be. The OP noted no response when grounding or powering the signal, still showing the fault. That led them to suspect the ECU. However, their car’s root cause proved to be the impulse ring, not the ECU. Test both before replacing parts. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16662828]

Does the G28 sensor pull the signal to ground or to +5 V?

According to the thread, the middle pin (signal) sinks to ground through an NPN stage inside the sensor. Your LED test should therefore reference +5 V through a resistor and watch for pulsed sinking during cranking. “The middle pin sensor masses to ground.” [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16669126]

How do I verify the 5 V feed and signal continuity at the plug?

Confirm +5 V at pin 1 with ignition on. Measure resistance or continuity on the signal line (pin 2) to the ECU. Also verify ground integrity on pin 3. If 5 V is missing, fix power first; otherwise, scope or LED‑test the signal during cranking. [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16662269]

Can a weak or demagnetized ring cause a no‑blink LED test?

Yes. A degaussed or damaged ring can prevent the sensor from toggling, yielding no LED activity. Space constraints near the bellhousing complicate attempts to re‑magnetize or shim the sensor, making ring replacement the reliable fix. “The symptom is as if this lace has degaussed itself.” [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16662050]

Will a temporary sensor depth adjustment hold?

Not for long. One user tightened the sensor mount to push it deeper, restoring signal briefly. The workaround failed after about three months, and the gearbox had to come out to replace the sealing collar and ring. Treat depth tweaks as diagnostic only. [Elektroda, panstalin2, post #16660975]

Could immobilizer issues block RPM on the bench?

If the ECU is immobilized, you will see an immobilizer fault and blocked start status. Using an immo emulator cleared the blocked‑controller error for the OP, allowing further RPM input testing with a generator. Address immo status before ECU input checks. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16661387]

How do I distinguish ring failure from ECU failure?

If a known‑good sensor and wiring still yield 00513, and the ECU flags the error after cranking, suspect the ring. In the thread, swapping ECUs did not help; only replacing the ring restored RPM. That’s a key edge case against ECU blame. [Elektroda, spinacz, post #16675747]
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