Vw Golf IV 1.6 AKL - Uneven engine operation after changing the temperature sens

I warmly welcome,
for some time I have a problem with VW Golf IV AKL.
For how long has the coolant temperature indicator been showing a lower temperature. After replacing with another temperature indicator it showed correctly, however, there were problems with firing at temperatures close to zero. I have already bought the fourth sensor and it is the same for everyone. I bought the original VW, Febi, one I brought from Germany and the same on each. In addition, when the engine is warm, it tugs especially at a speed of about 2,000. or lower. Does not show any errors on Vag, cables, and candles replaced. I will mention that the car has a gas installation for which the same happens regardless of whether I switch to gasoline or gas.
I am asking for advice because I am already losing faith that this car will run smoothly.
greetings

And the pressure on individual cylinders?

I don't know if the pressure is fine but everything is working on this old sensor. Is it possible that 4 sensors are working poorly and the wrong one is ok? Such a coincidence?

After the night, connect the VAG and read the engine temperature from the engine controller in the measuring blocks, it should be like the ambient temperature. Warm up the engine and see if the temperature will be around 90 degrees.
Maybe the sensors are good and you have a broken sensor cable somewhere.

The engine temperature varies between 49 - 250 degrees regardless of whether the engine is warm or cold. This happens whether it is on two original sensors and one non-original. A cold car does not want to start when the engine is cold and when it starts, it jerks terribly at low speed. it calms down once it reaches a temperature of about 30 degrees.
The second thing I discovered is driving a gas lambda probe error, it does not happen on gasoline.

Is the temperature also with the detached sensor?
If so, you have a short circuit on the sensor wires or a damaged ECU. If, after unplugging the sensor shows the same thing, cut off the cable connected to pin 53 at the ECU on the shaft.
No wonder he jerks and doesn't want to start because he has a lean mixture on a cold engine.
LPG, don't touch it yet.

dar3233 wrote:

The engine temperature varies between 49 - 250 degrees regardless of whether the engine is warm or cold.

So what is the temperature when starting a cold engine?

dar3233 wrote:

30 degrees.

is it due to the parameters or so by eye?

And the fuel pressure checked?
And the ignition system checked?

grala1 wrote:

Is the temperature also with the detached sensor?
.

It is similar with the detached sensor because the temperature varies between 150 and 240 degrees.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

jacolino75 wrote:

dar3233 wrote:

The engine temperature varies between 49 - 250 degrees regardless of whether the engine is warm or cold.

So what is the temperature when starting a cold engine?

dar3233 wrote:

30 degrees.

is it due to the parameters or so by eye?

And the fuel pressure checked?
And the ignition system checked?

With the temperature by the eye because as I said I do not know how much is on the engine because the temperature "jumps" and calms down jerking just before switching to gas, and the gas is set at 36 degrees.

As for the fuel pressure and ignition system I did not check. How could I check it? I would add that the cables and candles were replaced about a year ago, I have about 12,000 driven on them. km.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

I would like to add that I was just in the plant that installed the gas and nothing came out of the computer connected to the gas installation. So it turns out that gas actually has nothing to do with it.

dar3233 wrote:

the temperature "jumps",

What does it mean? check carefully

dar3233 wrote:

in the plant that installed the gas and nothing came out of the connected computer for the gas installation

it doesn't show anything yet.
See what happens on gasoline alone.

Leave the gas alone and take the temperature reading. It will never walk correctly until the ECU can see the current temperature.
Think a cold engine, it needs more fuel and the ECU thinks it is hot and changes its dose.
Also, you would not feel good if they gave you too little food.
The sensor is double so what the meter shows is only for the eye, the most important thing is what the ECU sees.
Do this at the beginning. With LPG it will not be correct either, because LPG takes injection times from the ECU and these are too short at the moment for an unheated engine and LPG regulation now makes no sense.

I did as you advised, i.e. I cut off the cable from ECU pin 53 but it did nothing. He was still as cold as a jerk, with longer driving he also jerks after about 30 km. As for the temperature, I noticed that when the engine was cold it showed about 148 degrees C, it depended on the sensor which was connected. However, I noticed that even if the sensor is not attached to the plug also shows a high temperature of 109 degrees.
Now after cutting the cable it shows a constant temperature of 109 degrees.
Do you have any other ideas?

If you cut a good cable WITH the ECU PLUG, the ECU connector is clean, you look at a good place in the engine controller for its temperature, look for a new controller because it is damaged.
To be sure, you can still connect a 2kOhm resistor to this cut wire at the ECU and connect this resistor to ground, it simulates a cold motor.

One of the faults has been repaired The jerking with the engine running was caused by the failure of the injections, which are still under warranty, and because the gas supply lines were leaking. After replacing the injections and hoses, the jerking stopped. Now everything is playing on the road.
I was at the electrician who found no errors except the lambda probe heating error. After replacing the probe, it also shows the same error. He said the engine was heating up correctly, he had readings from the sensor and probe.
Now there is a problem with this firing.
An interesting fact is that with problems when I start the engine on gasoline, this problem is not there when I start the engine in gas mode only in emergency mode. Then i ignite and don't tug. However, when the engine is warm, it happens that at idle, the engine jerks and runs on gas and gasoline.

The fault was detected and corrected.
It turned out that there was no problem with the ECU, and with the fuel pump, i.e. it did not produce the correct pressure of about 3 bar, only 2.3 bar. The fact that the engine operated on only one sensor was caused by the fact that it gave too much fuel, and the rest of the sensors were correct, which, in combination with a poorly operating pump, gave too little fuel.
I hope that someone with similar problems will light up this post.
Greetings to all.

and on vagu it shows air 98 degrees and liquid 13 !!! ??? about! I have already bought such a car, besides the whirlpools, it is not hard to accident, especially when you jump on the rudk 2800rpm suddenly or rather the engine will die, if one of the other has cpos in common?