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Mazda 3 BL 2010 - Central locking opens but does not close the door

nikus1984 9726 11
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  • #1 16687632
    nikus1984
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    Hello everyone, I have a problem with the central lock in my magazine
    MAZDA 3 (BL) 1.6 MZR CD
    Well, with the remote control you can open the car, but after pressing the close button, the direction indicators flash once and no reaction, just as you turn the key in the door locks, only the door in which the key is turned closes. I checked under the computer, delphi shows that every element of the flap, driver's, passenger's door and rear after closing is visible that they are closed so the switches in the locks should be healthy. I upload a dump from Launch (I think that's how you spell it). After this diagnosis, I replaced the lock on the driver's door and unfortunately it did not help, unchanged. Something clearly bothers the closing of the remote control, did anyone have such a case ???
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    • Mazda 3 BL 2010 - Central locking opens but does not close the door IMG_20170429_100832.jpg (4.92 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #2 16691352
    marek216
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17983
    Help: 1076
    Rate: 923
    Everything indicates that the relay on the lock controller responsible for closing does not work.
  • #3 16694379
    nikus1984
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    can this driver be in the driver's door or will it be somewhere under the steering wheel ??
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  • #4 16694554
    Ireneo
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7818
    Help: 746
    Rate: 2453
    It looks like the driver's door lock, not the relay. See the cables in the grommet. Detach the door if it's ok and see the reaction.
  • #5 16694584
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #6 16699648
    marek216
    Level 43  
    Posts: 17983
    Help: 1076
    Rate: 923
    nikus1984 wrote:
    the same way after turning the key in the door locks, only the door in which the key is turned closes.


    eurotips wrote:
    And just turning the key in the driver's door locks all doors so just look for a problem there.


    So how? Do we read what we want or what is written?
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  • #7 16699765
    nikus1984
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    the stop lamp error was found accidentally.
    I bought the driver's door lock on alledrogo efficiently, after postponing, unfortunately, the problem still occurs. The beam in the door is all, maybe some ideas ... electrician collapsed with work, still tells me to arrive in 2 weeks
  • Helpful post
    #8 16699807
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #9 16699916
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #10 16699923
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #11 16701521
    nikus1984
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 2
    Bieda z nędzą wrote:
    A slight failure within this light - the lack of mass - means that the latching sensor of the damper does not work either; which has mass. So the system thinks - if the hatch is not closed, I do nothing.


    Interesting suggestion, I will try to embrace the flap beam, let me know after the weekend whether something was shimmering
  • #12 16701550
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a central locking issue in a 2010 Mazda 3 (BL) 1.6 MZR CD, where the remote control can open the doors but fails to close them. Users suggest that the problem may lie with the GEM module not detecting that all doors are latched, potentially linked to a stop lamp error. Recommendations include checking the driver's door lock, inspecting the wiring in the door grommet, and verifying the state of the GEM module with a tester. The author has already replaced the driver's door lock but continues to experience the issue, indicating a deeper electrical problem may be present.
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FAQ

TL;DR: On Mazda 3 BL that unlocks but won’t lock, “90%” of cases are GEM not seeing all latches; “You must think like the thoughts of the vehicle electronics.” [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699807]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Mazda 3 BL owners fix a remote-lock failure that opens but won’t close, saving time and parts swaps.

Quick Facts

What are the tell‑tale symptoms of this Mazda 3 BL locking fault?

The car unlocks from the remote, but on lock the indicators flash once and nothing locks. Using the key, only the door you turn locks. This pattern points away from fob battery issues and toward control or sensing faults. It matches the original case description. [Elektroda, nikus1984, post #16687632]

What’s the most likely root cause according to the thread?

A contributor states that in 90% of such cases the GEM module doesn’t detect all closures. If any latch isn’t seen as latched, the module inhibits locking. "You must think like the thoughts of the vehicle electronics." [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699807]

Could a failed relay be responsible?

Yes. One diagnosis points to the lock controller’s relay that drives the closing action. If the unlock relay works but the close relay fails, you get asymmetric behavior: opens fine, won’t close. Test the close-drive output before replacing parts. [Elektroda, marek216, post #16691352]

Should I suspect the driver’s door lock or wiring first?

Yes. Another expert suggests the driver’s door lock or a broken wire in the door grommet. Inspect the harness for fractured conductors, then test the lock’s response off‑car to rule the mechanism in or out. [Elektroda, Ireneo, post #16694554]

Why does a stop‑lamp error matter for central locking?

The third brake light in the tailgate shares ground with the hatch latch sensor. A poor ground can make the GEM think the hatch isn’t latched, so it refuses to lock. Fix the ground, and the system restores normal locking. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699807]

How can I verify what the GEM thinks before replacing parts?

Use a scan tool and read the GEM’s live data for all door and hatch states. Confirm each shows "closed". Trigger the lock command and watch whether the module changes outputs. This prevents blind swaps and speeds diagnosis. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16701550]

Quick 3‑step how‑to: check GEM latch states with a tester

  1. Connect your tester and enter the GEM/BCM data stream.
  2. Close each door and the hatch; verify each input reads "closed."
  3. Press lock and observe outputs; investigate any input that isn’t "closed." [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16701550]

If I turn the key in the driver’s door, should all doors lock?

In the reported fault, turning the key only locks that single door. This asymmetry reinforces a control‑path or input‑validation problem, not a dead fob or general power issue. [Elektroda, nikus1984, post #16687632]

Does the immobilizer (PATS) have anything to do with this?

No. Participants dismiss PATS as unrelated to the central locking behavior in this scenario. Focus on door/hatch inputs, wiring, and lock control outputs instead. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699923]

I replaced the driver’s door lock actuator and nothing changed. What next?

That mirrors the thread: a new driver’s lock didn’t fix it. Move on to wiring verification and module input checks rather than repeating actuator swaps. Use a scan tool to confirm latch states. [Elektroda, nikus1984, post #16699765]

What quick checks should I do in the driver’s door grommet?

Pull back the rubber boot and inspect each conductor for breaks or corrosion. Flexed doors often crack lock, latch, and ground wires. Repair any damaged wires and re‑test lock commands. [Elektroda, Ireneo, post #16694554]

What’s an edge case I should not overlook?

A weak ground at the third stop light can silence the hatch latch sensor. The GEM then blocks locking because it “sees” an open hatch. Restoring the ground resolves the logic block. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699807]

Why do the indicators flash once but nothing locks?

That single flash acknowledges the lock request, but the system won’t drive the locks if any closure isn’t confirmed. The one‑flash symptom is part of the original case. [Elektroda, nikus1984, post #16687632]

What is the GEM module in this context?

It’s the body control that validates whether all doors and the hatch are latched before allowing lock actuation. If any input reads unlatched, it inhibits locking. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699807]

I’m waiting two weeks for an electrician—what’s one high‑impact check now?

Fix or rule out the tailgate’s third brake light ground. A shared ground fault can block the GEM’s hatch‑latched input and prevent locking altogether. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699807]

Indicators didn’t blink on my Mazda after locking—could it still lock?

Yes. A user reported bolts locking with the trunk closed but no direction‑indicator blink on a Mazda 6. Logic and feedback can differ by model. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16699916]
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