Mazda 3 BL 2010 1.6 77KW - Central locking coding - pocket knife

Hi everyone,

I needed a second key for my car - a remote control, I bought on the auction website together with the transponder, after assuring you that it would work (I gave the car's year, model). I went to the locksmith, who mapped the key to me, and said that the transponder was already coded. I went to my car and actually started without any problem.

I have a problem with coding the remote control in my car so that it responds to commands from the remote control.

There are several methods described on the internet for programming a key, including videos on how to do it.

For me, the car reacts by activating the central lock after such a sequence:

1) I open the door and leave it ajar,
2) I put the key in the ignition
3) I turn the ignition on and off 3x. I leave the key in the off position
4) 3x I open and close the door, leave it open
5) After the central lock activated by the magic spell stops giving signs, click 2x off on the remote (I also tried 2x on and alternately)
6) The central lock does not react - the key is not added
7) I close the door, the central locking is activated and the entire procedure is completed
8) No effect.

I tried it with the old key inserted (not the remote control) and with the new key inserted. The lights inside the car are set in the middle position, i.e. when I open the door, the light comes on (front and back).

What could the problem be? The battery is working (after pressing any button, the LED reacts - it lights red).

Thanks for the answers!

The remote has the right frequency?

I will add that I talked to the ASO service regarding parts, i.e. the pilot and the grotto.

Part number for tip - G28A582GXC
Pilot part number - CC93675RYC

The pilot frequency is 433 Mhz 4D63 chip

What could the problem be? The battery is working (after pressing any button, the LED reacts - it lights red).

That it shines is not enough. Check if there is a signal and how strong it is. The problem may be the lack of practice and as always the devil is in the details. Read the procedure carefully. There are two types of pilots. and as many procedures.

So how do you check this signal and its strength?
Two types of remote controls - what do you mean?

There are several procedures, I know which car it responds to, the problem is the key. I do not have the original remote control to check if it is electronics from what I have or not.
I do not want to sound to offend someone but before I asked for help here I checked what the procedures are, I do not know another Mazda that I could try, hence my question here to more experienced people.

According to me, if the battery reacts by flashing the diode, it has enough energy to get the signal to the car.


Do I understand at all ... there are two mechanisms:
1) immobilizer, and transponder which is in the key, based on the data exchange can be started automatically.
2) central locking and electronics in the key, which after proper programming makes it possible to unlock the car with a remote control? Whether a transponder or something else also has a significant impact.

Ps. I will replace the batteries with a new one but I would like to know your suggestions which I can check to eliminate before my next post.

I would, however, check how often this new remote control transmits, or sometimes not 315 MHz. You can check if your programming system works on your old remote control but remember that you must always program 3 remote controls. If you have one good, you program it three times, i.e. you repeat point 5 three times.

I have only ordinary, no remote - old. And one new, with a remote control, which I bought now with salad and a locksmith earned me based on the old one.

I do not understand your point why I need to repeat 5 points 3 times, in the videos they showed that you can click with several keys after you answer the car with the central lock sequence, code one by one. Experimental, this information from an autopsy?

Hmm, how can I measure this frequency exactly? Can somehow "home" ways? I have a radio at home where I can check if the remote control is working. Will I measure the range with a meter? Is it just an oscilloscope?

Burza92 wrote:

I do not understand your point why I need to repeat 5 points 3 times, in the videos they showed that you can click with several keys after you answer the car with the central lock sequence, code one by one. Experimental, this information is from an autopsy

I really have it. The point is that the controller has space for programming 3 remote controls and these 3 places MUST be "filled" and whether you program 3 different or one 3 times this controller will not recognize. Of course, after programming each controller should confirm it by the central lock.
As for the frequency, it's best on some pilot tester.

I checked the 434Mhz frequency came out, the battery is ok, any other idea?

Only one that someone was poking something and your receiver is at 315MHz, or is damaged. Have you had a pilot for it before?

Yes i did. He worked without problems. How to check this receiver?
This electronics inside the key is a simple board operating at the appropriate frequency or does it contain "other" information?

I am asking because I know that there are several types of keys and when I opened the one I bought now I can see Visteon No. 41528

Hello . I have a Mazda 3 I Hatchback 1.6 MZR 105 KM 77 kW 2014 while driving, the engine went out when starting at an intersection (not enough gas) at the time of ignition, probably in the remote control one of the buttons on the remote control was pressed (close or open) from this moment the remote control does not work . the car can be closed and opened only with the key in the driver's side door but with an alarm howling for about 6 - 10 minutes, then it does not howl and you can drive (of course the car lights up and you can drive it).

I tried to remove the clamp from the battery and wait 1 minute - alarm howls, shorted wires + minus to deprive electrolytes of charge - alarm howls.

The remote control has batteries replaced last year, the red lights on the buttons light up when the buttons are pressed.

The procedure of assigning the key to the computer in the car is not understandable to me, I do not know if it can be done at all in this way.
Has anyone had a similar problem and knows how to do something about this alarm yourself?
Possibly explain how to do it.
Quote
1) I open the door and leave it ajar,
2) I put the key in the ignition
3) I turn the ignition on and off 3x. I leave the key in the off position
4) 3x I open and close the door, leave it open
5) After the central lock activated by the magic spell stops giving signs, click 2x off on the remote (I also tried 2x on and alternately)
6) The central lock does not react - the key is not added
7) I close the door, the central locking is activated and the entire procedure is completed
8) No effect.

Thank you in advance for your answer .

Moderated By CameR:

Reg. 3.1.19. For the sake of respect to the questioner, create your own topic. You can only add a solution to the problem.

digitaltech wrote:

The procedure for assigning the key to the computer in the car is not understood by me

What is not understood by you? You have described step by step. Read with understanding.

If anyone ever had a problem, the driver for Mazda 3 BL is Mitschubischi 126-01. Earlier I had bad electronics selected, hence my car could not see the remote control.

As for running the coding procedure, it is correct, at least for Mazda 3 BL.

Greetings,

I have a problem that the mazda 3 2006 after the lifts the key, the pocket knife, does not enter the programming mode, I tried 10 times and I have coded remotes in the Mazda more than once and I'm doing everything right in the second same daughter's mada, it goes into the mode without any problems and you can code the remotes and in some cases, the switch in the door works because it lights the lamp on the ceiling and the door light on the board works properly, I will add that the ignition switch turns something strange and you can not hear this click after removing the key, can it be it?

klosek6 wrote:

I can not hear this click after removing the key can it be it?

No, that's not it, the sequence is ignition on, and since it turns on and off, this sequence point works.

With a damaged ignition (you cannot hear this click after removing the key, can it be it?), The remotes usually sign in but are not remembered. This is a very common glitch in Mazda.

I managed, however, the ignition switch, when I was withdrawing the key from the ignition, I did not move back to the end, only so that the radio went out and the display and everything was ok

I forgot to write, the reason for the damage was the central locking controller (receiver 433 MHz) after replacing it with a used one, disassembled from another car for 2 years, everything is fine. I am adding photos of this controller.