FAQ
TL;DR: On this Focus Mk1 thread, 1 of 1 confirmed fixes was contact‑cleaning the comfort module; "It helped me." Located behind the storage compartment/glovebox. Symptoms included driver door not locking by remote, odd window/tailgate behavior. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps Focus Mk1 owners quickly diagnose and fix driver‑door central locking that fails while other doors still work.
Quick Facts
- Reported fix: cleaning comfort‑module contacts restored central locking in this case. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
- Comfort module location: behind the storage compartment/glovebox area. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
- Symptom cluster: driver door won’t lock by remote; passenger window switch only opens; dash tailgate button dead. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16856980]
- Scan result: 0 fault codes reported despite the issue. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16856998]
- Common checks suggested: door‑to‑body wiring at driver grommet and lock motor condition. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16857022]
What are the telltale symptoms when the driver’s door central locking fails on a Focus Mk1?
Typical symptoms: the remote won’t lock the driver’s door, but other doors work. The dash tailgate button may stop. The passenger window switch may only open, not close. The key can still lock the whole car. These signs appeared together in the reported case. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16856980]
Where is the comfort module on the Focus Mk1?
The comfort module sits behind the storage compartment or glovebox area. Access it by removing the compartment, then inspect and clean the connectors. This location was stated by the owner who resolved the issue. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
How was the problem fixed in the thread?
The owner cleaned the comfort‑module contact pins with a contact cleaner. After cleaning, the central locking worked again. The concise report was: “It helped me.” This is the only confirmed fix in the discussion. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
Will a diagnostic scan always show a fault for this issue?
No. In this case, a scan showed zero errors even while the driver’s door wouldn’t lock via remote. Electrical contact corrosion or broken wires can disrupt functions without setting codes. The thread explicitly notes 0 fault codes. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16856998]
Could a broken wire in the door grommet cause these symptoms?
Yes. A damaged wire in the driver door–to–body harness can cause locking and window anomalies. An experienced member advised checking the harness at the grommet and considering the lock motor. “Check the harness at the driver’s door‑bodywork grommet.” [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16857022]
Is the lock motor a suspect if only the driver’s door won’t lock from the remote?
It can be. One helper suggested the lock motor might have failed alongside advising wiring checks. Before replacing parts, inspect wiring and contacts, then test the actuator if accessible. Replace the motor only after basic checks. [Elektroda, andrzej20001, post #16857022]
My passenger window switch only opens, not closes—related to central locking?
It can be related. The reported case had that switch opening only, not closing, while the driver’s door remote lock failed. Shared power or signal issues from the comfort module or harness can link the symptoms. Fixing contacts restored locking in that case. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16856980]
The dash button for the tailgate stopped working—what should I check first?
Check the comfort‑module connectors for oxidation and reseat them. In the thread, the tailgate dash button failed alongside the locking issue, and contact cleaning at the comfort module resolved the main problem. Inspect wiring next if symptoms persist. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16856980]
How can I quickly verify if the central system still responds inside the car?
Use the interior door handles. One helper suggested pushing the driver and passenger handles from inside to see if the central system reacts. This quick test helps distinguish actuator and signal issues. Compare driver and passenger responses. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16857124]
How do I clean the comfort‑module contacts? (3‑step How‑To)
- Remove the storage compartment/glovebox to access the comfort module.
- Unplug connectors and spray contact cleaner on pins and sockets.
- Let it dry, reconnect firmly, and test locking and switches.
This exact cleaning restored operation in the thread. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
What tools or materials do I need for the fix?
You need trim tools to remove the storage compartment, and an electronics contact cleaner. The owner reported cleaning the comfort‑module contacts with a contact cleaner, after which the central locking worked again. Keep lint‑free wipes on hand. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
Can I use a diagnostic computer to command windows or locking as a test?
Yes, if your tool supports active tests. A participant suggested using a computer to try closing the window and locking the car, or else inspecting the harness. Active tests can isolate module versus wiring faults. [Elektroda, wrobel000, post #16857003]
What is the “comfort module” referred to in this thread?
It is the vehicle’s convenience controller that handles central locking and related functions. In this Focus Mk1 case, it sits behind the storage compartment. Cleaning its contacts restored the locking system in the reported fix. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16862036]
Any quick stat or edge‑case to keep in mind?
Stat: one scan showed 0 fault codes during the failure, proving DTCs may be absent. Edge‑case: intermittent wiring breaks at the door grommet can mimic module faults. Check wiring even when scans are clean. [Elektroda, Pontonek79, post #16856998]
