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INDESIT / BAAN 13 - The refrigerator is still working, it does not turn off.

voodziak 36162 11
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  • #1 16731836
    voodziak
    Level 11  
    Posts: 37
    Rate: 19
    Board Language: polish
    Hello,
    I have been looking for information on the continuous operation of the Indesit BAAN13 fridge. However, I think my problem is slightly different. My fridge does not switch off, the compressor runs continuously. The problem started occurring about a week ago, nothing bad has happened until now. The temperature in the fridge measured on the highest shelf, with an outside thermometer on the window is about 5 °C. The rear wall frosted evenly from about halfway (above the middle shelf to the very top). The freezer is working perfectly. The partition between the fridge and freezer is quite warm, but I think this is due to long operation.

    I have looked through the gasket carefully and have not noticed any leaks. As for the compressor, I also did not find any strange noises or operation that might have caused me concern. The only option to turn the compressor off is to momentarily set the temperature knob to the position in the picture below. So far the fridge has worked when the knob was set vertically, and there have been no problems. When I set the temperature just vertically, the fridge switched on again when the thermometer readings showed 10 °C on the highest shelf. The situation repeats, i.e. it runs for several hours without switching off, and the only option for a break is to set the dial back to the state in the picture. I am very much asking for help as to what could be the problem and the ailment of this copy, it is known that buying a new one is quite a big expense ;]

    INDESIT / BAAN 13 - The refrigerator is still working, it does not turn off. .
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  • #2 16731885
    Hajna
    Level 24  
    Posts: 478
    Help: 69
    Rate: 145
    Board Language: polish
    The control or thermostat is always switched on. check it out.
  • #3 16732324
    voodziak
    Level 11  
    Posts: 37
    Rate: 19
    Board Language: polish
    Look, you mean to replace it for a new one?
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  • #4 16732654
    zhudomel
    Home appliances specialist
    Posts: 4991
    Help: 1279
    Rate: 3358
    Board Language: polish
    The thermostat responds correctly. There is poor performance of the cooling system due to: leaks, obstruction or wear of the compressor.
  • #5 16732910
    voodziak
    Level 11  
    Posts: 37
    Rate: 19
    Board Language: polish
    Theoretically you're right, but I did a little test. I always used the fridge so that the temperature was in the middle of the dial scale, so it seems to me about 5 degrees. Now I set them in a position even lower than in the picture, so it seems to me about 10 degrees. So in my opinion the compressor should turn off sooner and not continue to pump up to infinity until frost appears on the back wall. I also analyzed the situation and I remembered that the situation began with the fact that several products in the fridge froze me. Tonight I set the temperature regulation in the 0 position, i.e. for 7 hours the compressor did not turn on even once, the thermometer indicated 10-11 degrees, so I think the tightness of the cooler is gone.
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  • #6 16732928
    zhudomel
    Home appliances specialist
    Posts: 4991
    Help: 1279
    Rate: 3358
    Board Language: polish
    voodziak wrote:
    tightness of the refrigerator is eliminated.
    And it's not about it, it's about the tightness of the cooling system. Probably in a few days frost in the refrigerator will not be, the compressor will not continue to turn off and the temperature will rise.
  • #7 16732964
    voodziak
    Level 11  
    Posts: 37
    Rate: 19
    Board Language: polish
    Yes you are right I meant that I have read about seals gaps and the current behavior of the refrigerator precludes this option. I wonder, however, why the compressor does not turn off even when I set the temperature quite high, it only cools down when theoretically it should not be anymore because the thermostat should turn it off.

    Added after 8 [hours] 24 [minutes]:

    Update: the refrigerator today was probably working all day long because nobody was home. I read a thermometer on the top shelf -6 degrees, probably a lot of products will be thrown out because water will get out of it ... I'm always wondering why the compressor did not turn off. I bought a thermostat in the dark tomorrow I'm going to replace it. Does anyone know how to get to him in this model?
  • #8 16739054
    voodziak
    Level 11  
    Posts: 37
    Rate: 19
    Board Language: polish
    The thermostat mentioned, however, is not a problem. Theoretically, the failure may be unsealing. However, I do not have a problem with a temperature of 10 degrees. The temperature controller is currently set to the minimum cooling, but the temperature is still between 5-6 degrees on the top shelf. A long time ago, when I set the regulator, the refrigerator and the freezer similarly had a much higher temperature and then it worked without a problem. I have the impression that the fridge has been seeking a temperature value that nobody knows;]. If the regulator is set to the minimum cooling and does not turn the refrigerator off at 5 degrees, which is the optimal temperature, then it will never turn it off, because the refrigerator would have to reach a temperature of minus 20 degrees. In addition, I get the impression that the refrigerator turns on according to your own scheme, it works for a long time and once it is short and cools down according to some of your whims;]. If anyone has any ideas, it's bold because for me it's some kind of abstraction.
  • #9 16799585
    karokat
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    Hello.
    I have the same problem as voodziak . Fridge indesit baan 12 10years used - The compressor works all the time.
    I replaced the thermostat on the 216FR45 VC1 capillary 10 cm longer (I was chosen in the home appliance store) and now I have another problem.
    After about 4 hours of continuous work from replacing the thermostat, the compressor turned off and after 5 minutes. she turned on and worked 1min. and again 5min break and 2min. work and so until the morning. After increasing the temperature on the thermostat, it works to reach the set point for a longer time and the cycle of short work repeats itself.
    What do you think about it?
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  • #10 16799724
    Lodxx
    Home appliances specialist
    Posts: 578
    Help: 105
    Rate: 245
    Board Language: polish
    The compressor is over, as a result of the previous loss of refrigerant. The work was done by dry slaughtering her. I think the equipment for disposal.
  • #11 19226923
    karokat
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 7
    Board Language: polish
    Hello . The same damaged fridge has been working for three years, the problem is, but it is solved so that: every month, when the refrigerator freezes, I hit the dehumidifier 3 times, funny but true, and it works correctly.
    Why is this happening? Does the dehumidifier have any ice plugs? Can it be repaired (without unsealing the cooling system)?
  • #12 21106372
    MarcinSm
    Level 12  
    Posts: 86
    Rate: 26
    Board Language: polish

    I have the same problem, hardly ever the compressor shuts down, cool the fridge runs great however all the time on the compressor, has anyone solved this problem ?

Topic summary

✨ The Indesit BAAN13 refrigerator is experiencing a continuous operation issue where the compressor does not turn off, leading to excessive cooling and frost buildup. Users suggest checking the thermostat, as it may be malfunctioning or improperly calibrated. Some have reported that replacing the thermostat resolved similar issues, while others suspect leaks or obstructions in the cooling system. The temperature settings seem ineffective, as the compressor continues to run even at lower settings. A few users have resorted to temporary fixes, such as hitting the dehumidifier to manage frost. Overall, the consensus points towards potential thermostat failure or refrigerant loss as primary concerns.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: If your Indesit BAAN13/BAAN12 runs nonstop, check for sealed‑system issues. Users reported -6°C on the top shelf after an all‑day run; “poor performance of the cooling system due to leaks, obstruction or compressor wear.” [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16732654]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps BAAN‑series owners diagnose nonstop compressor running and decide on repair vs. replace.

Quick Facts

Why does my Indesit BAAN13 run continuously and not shut off?

A forum expert attributes nonstop running to sealed‑system underperformance: refrigerant leak, flow obstruction, or compressor wear. “The thermostat responds correctly.” Start with symptom mapping: note frost pattern on the rear wall and measured shelf temperatures. Then test a full OFF cycle by rotating the dial to 0 and observing if the compressor stays off at ~10–11°C. If it does, the control likely functions and the issue shifts to the cooling circuit. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16732654]

How can I quickly triage this at home?

Do three checks: 1) Inspect the back wall; partial upper frost suggests weak cooling. 2) Measure the top shelf; ~5°C with continuous running signals trouble. 3) Turn the thermostat to 0; if the compressor stays off and the cabinet warms to ~10–11°C, the control path works. Document results before calling service. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]

Is my thermostat bad if the fridge never stops?

Not always. One case showed normal thermostat response, yet the system kept running due to poor cooling performance. Another test showed the compressor stayed off at dial position 0 with ~10–11°C inside, which also points away from a stuck control. “The thermostat responds correctly.” [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16732910]

What temperatures indicate a problem in these cases?

Two data points stand out: 1) ~5–6°C on the top shelf even at minimum cooling, and 2) extreme overcooling to −6°C on the top shelf after an all‑day run. Either pattern with continuous or erratic cycling suggests a sealed‑system fault, not a door seal issue. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16739054]

Why is there frost only on the upper half of the rear wall?

Users observed frosting from mid‑panel upward while the compressor ran nonstop. This uneven frost band commonly aligns with restricted refrigerant flow or low charge, reducing evaporator coverage. The freezer may still seem fine early on, which can mislead diagnosis. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]

The divider between fridge and freezer feels warm—normal or not?

A warm partition was reported during extended runtime. This can happen because heat from condenser loops near the mullion rises during long cycles. If warmth coincides with nonstop operation and the other symptoms here, focus on cooling performance diagnostics. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]

I replaced the thermostat and now it short‑cycles. What does 1–2 min on/5 min off mean?

After a thermostat swap, one BAAN12 began short‑cycling 1–2 minutes on and 5 minutes off repeatedly. That pattern indicates the control now responds, but the cooling system cannot sustain proper performance, hinting at compressor or flow issues under load. [Elektroda, karokat, post #16799585]

Could a refrigerant leak damage the compressor?

Yes. A respondent concluded the compressor failed as a result of prior refrigerant loss, adding that continued running “dry” finished it off. The recommendation was to retire the appliance rather than invest further. “I think the equipment for disposal.” [Elektroda, Lodxx, post #16799724]

Is there any temporary workaround if it keeps freezing or blocking?

One user kept the same faulty unit running for three years by tapping the dryer filter three times monthly when cooling fell. This suggests intermittent restriction at the dryer/desiccant. It is a stopgap, not a fix, and does not restore factory performance. [Elektroda, karokat, post #19226923]

What does the “dehumidifier/dryer” mean here?

In the thread, the user calls the system’s filter‑dryer a “dehumidifier.” Tapping that canister temporarily restored cooling each month, implying internal debris or moisture causing partial blockage. Permanent repair would involve sealed‑system service with proper dehydration. [Elektroda, karokat, post #19226923]

How do I tell door‑gasket leaks from sealed‑system faults?

The OP checked gaskets and found no leaks, yet saw continuous running, an upper frost band, and abnormal temperatures. Also, with the dial at 0, the compressor stayed off, which is inconsistent with an air‑leak‑driven always‑on scenario. That pattern points to the sealed system. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]

Has anyone posted a permanent fix?

No confirmed permanent fix was posted. One expert cited sealed‑system causes, another advised disposal after presumed refrigerant loss and compressor damage. A different user reported only a monthly tapping workaround on the dryer. Consider professional sealed‑system service or replacement. [Elektroda, MarcinSm, post #21106372]

What thermostat part did users try, and did it help?

A BAAN12 owner installed a 216FR45 VC1 thermostat with a capillary about 10 cm longer than stock. The compressor then short‑cycled repeatedly, which did not resolve the underlying cooling issue. Control replacement alone could not restore normal operation. [Elektroda, karokat, post #16799585]

Edge case: Can the freezer look fine while the fridge misbehaves?

Yes. The freezer was reported “working perfectly” while the fridge section ran continually with uneven frost and drifting temperatures. Early in sealed‑system decline, the freezer can mask faults that the fresh‑food section exposes sooner. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]

What’s a practical 3‑step plan before calling a technician?

  1. Record top‑shelf temperature after 4–6 hours of run. 2. Photograph the rear‑wall frost pattern. 3. Set the dial to 0 for 6–8 hours and confirm the compressor stays off and cabinet warms near ~10–11°C. Share this data with service. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16732910]
Generated by the language model.
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