FAQ
TL;DR: If your Indesit BAAN13/BAAN12 runs nonstop, check for sealed‑system issues. Users reported -6°C on the top shelf after an all‑day run; “poor performance of the cooling system due to leaks, obstruction or compressor wear.” [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16732654]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps BAAN‑series owners diagnose nonstop compressor running and decide on repair vs. replace.
Quick Facts
- Reported on BAAN13: continuous compressor, upper back wall frosts from mid‑panel up, top shelf ~5°C. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]
- Reported on BAAN12 (10 years used): compressor works all the time before thermostat swap. [Elektroda, karokat, post #16799585]
- Short‑cycling after thermostat swap: ~1–2 min on, ~5 min off repeating overnight. [Elektroda, karokat, post #16799585]
- With knob at 0, fridge held ~10–11°C overnight and the compressor stayed off. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16732910]
- DIY workaround: tapping the dryer filter monthly restored operation for three years. [Elektroda, karokat, post #19226923]
Why does my Indesit BAAN13 run continuously and not shut off?
A forum expert attributes nonstop running to sealed‑system underperformance: refrigerant leak, flow obstruction, or compressor wear. “The thermostat responds correctly.” Start with symptom mapping: note frost pattern on the rear wall and measured shelf temperatures. Then test a full OFF cycle by rotating the dial to 0 and observing if the compressor stays off at ~10–11°C. If it does, the control likely functions and the issue shifts to the cooling circuit. [Elektroda, zhudomel, post #16732654]
How can I quickly triage this at home?
Do three checks: 1) Inspect the back wall; partial upper frost suggests weak cooling. 2) Measure the top shelf; ~5°C with continuous running signals trouble. 3) Turn the thermostat to 0; if the compressor stays off and the cabinet warms to ~10–11°C, the control path works. Document results before calling service. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]
Is my thermostat bad if the fridge never stops?
Not always. One case showed normal thermostat response, yet the system kept running due to poor cooling performance. Another test showed the compressor stayed off at dial position 0 with ~10–11°C inside, which also points away from a stuck control. “The thermostat responds correctly.” [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16732910]
What temperatures indicate a problem in these cases?
Two data points stand out: 1) ~5–6°C on the top shelf even at minimum cooling, and 2) extreme overcooling to −6°C on the top shelf after an all‑day run. Either pattern with continuous or erratic cycling suggests a sealed‑system fault, not a door seal issue. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16739054]
Why is there frost only on the upper half of the rear wall?
Users observed frosting from mid‑panel upward while the compressor ran nonstop. This uneven frost band commonly aligns with restricted refrigerant flow or low charge, reducing evaporator coverage. The freezer may still seem fine early on, which can mislead diagnosis. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]
The divider between fridge and freezer feels warm—normal or not?
A warm partition was reported during extended runtime. This can happen because heat from condenser loops near the mullion rises during long cycles. If warmth coincides with nonstop operation and the other symptoms here, focus on cooling performance diagnostics. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]
I replaced the thermostat and now it short‑cycles. What does 1–2 min on/5 min off mean?
After a thermostat swap, one BAAN12 began short‑cycling 1–2 minutes on and 5 minutes off repeatedly. That pattern indicates the control now responds, but the cooling system cannot sustain proper performance, hinting at compressor or flow issues under load. [Elektroda, karokat, post #16799585]
Could a refrigerant leak damage the compressor?
Yes. A respondent concluded the compressor failed as a result of prior refrigerant loss, adding that continued running “dry” finished it off. The recommendation was to retire the appliance rather than invest further. “I think the equipment for disposal.” [Elektroda, Lodxx, post #16799724]
Is there any temporary workaround if it keeps freezing or blocking?
One user kept the same faulty unit running for three years by tapping the dryer filter three times monthly when cooling fell. This suggests intermittent restriction at the dryer/desiccant. It is a stopgap, not a fix, and does not restore factory performance. [Elektroda, karokat, post #19226923]
What does the “dehumidifier/dryer” mean here?
In the thread, the user calls the system’s filter‑dryer a “dehumidifier.” Tapping that canister temporarily restored cooling each month, implying internal debris or moisture causing partial blockage. Permanent repair would involve sealed‑system service with proper dehydration. [Elektroda, karokat, post #19226923]
How do I tell door‑gasket leaks from sealed‑system faults?
The OP checked gaskets and found no leaks, yet saw continuous running, an upper frost band, and abnormal temperatures. Also, with the dial at 0, the compressor stayed off, which is inconsistent with an air‑leak‑driven always‑on scenario. That pattern points to the sealed system. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]
Has anyone posted a permanent fix?
No confirmed permanent fix was posted. One expert cited sealed‑system causes, another advised disposal after presumed refrigerant loss and compressor damage. A different user reported only a monthly tapping workaround on the dryer. Consider professional sealed‑system service or replacement. [Elektroda, MarcinSm, post #21106372]
What thermostat part did users try, and did it help?
A BAAN12 owner installed a 216FR45 VC1 thermostat with a capillary about 10 cm longer than stock. The compressor then short‑cycled repeatedly, which did not resolve the underlying cooling issue. Control replacement alone could not restore normal operation. [Elektroda, karokat, post #16799585]
Edge case: Can the freezer look fine while the fridge misbehaves?
Yes. The freezer was reported “working perfectly” while the fridge section ran continually with uneven frost and drifting temperatures. Early in sealed‑system decline, the freezer can mask faults that the fresh‑food section exposes sooner. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16731836]
What’s a practical 3‑step plan before calling a technician?
- Record top‑shelf temperature after 4–6 hours of run. 2. Photograph the rear‑wall frost pattern. 3. Set the dial to 0 for 6–8 hours and confirm the compressor stays off and cabinet warms near ~10–11°C. Share this data with service. [Elektroda, voodziak, post #16732910]
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