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[Solved] Air draft regulator for SAS furnace Damaged Afriso FR1 once again

Leon444 17139 15
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  • #1 16734201
    Leon444
    Level 26  
    Hello
    I have a problem every year with air draft regulators for SAS wood stove.
    The first original Regulus regulator worked for a year and after the summer season when I wanted to start the furnace worked the first time and as if jammed it simply did not react to temperature, it remained open with the 70st setting and the furnace was almost up to 100st C and no reaction time is present .. .
    I exchanged him for Afriso a year ago and he worked beautifully, smoothly and in general this year, the same thing, the first firing beautifully, the second one he would cut, and today he almost does not react ...
    What is with these rulers? should I exchange a new one every year?
    I was thinking that he could take it apart and throw the expanding cartridge itself in the fridge, maybe it would help him change the temperature, or soak it in oil or WD40, what do you think?
    I do not want to change the regulator again, I will not replace it every year, after that I use the oven very sporadically ...
    Anyone had such a problem?
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  • #2 16734516
    mietek654
    Level 29  
    hello give photo as mounted.
  • #3 16736017
    Leon444
    Level 26  
    It is mounted in the original place provided for this: Air draft regulator for SAS furnace Damaged Afriso FR1 once again Air draft regulator for SAS furnace Damaged Afriso FR1 once again Air draft regulator for SAS furnace Damaged Afriso FR1 once again

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    Today I undressed it and lubricated WD40 and gave it outside for half an hour, of course I am talking about the push cartridge itself.
    I folded it and it works, but somehow so slowly and reluctantly ...
    I do not know myself, I am surprised that for the second time the same at the same time of year (i.e. at the start of the heating season)
  • #4 16737404
    BILGO
    Level 38  
    Show pictures how the chain is routed and how it is attached to the door. If the meter works, then there is no problem with raising the flap?
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  • #5 16738451
    Leon444
    Level 26  
    Tomorrow I will make pics, but at the bottom is on the original flap hook, as the regulator works normally it raises and lowers without any problem ...
  • Helpful post
    #6 16738769
    kolys
    Level 20  
    Be sure to take a photo of the flip so that you can see how the chain is mounted.

    Check that the pipe under the regulator is not aerated. When the ruler does not work properly, soak the thread of the ruler and hemp with water and slowly unscrew the ruler with a wrench. Watch if air bubbles or water come out. This is very important because just that a small amount of air or steam gets under the regulator, it stops responding to temperature changes.
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  • #7 16738797
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    Make a counter weight. The regulator will lower the flap with less force.
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  • Helpful post
    #8 16742607
    BILGO
    Level 38  
    The spring picks up the flap. If it does not close as described above, air / steam under the regulator or stuck somewhere. Everything to check. Maybe the meter is at the wrong angle and there are some forces that wedge the arm?
  • #9 16742616
    Leon444
    Level 26  
    Subject to close.
    The reason is the accumulation of air under the regulator, probably not the factory the best place the manufacturer has chosen to place the regulator and with time the air accumulates under it, which disrupts its work ...
    I unscrewed it a little, the air escaped and then water started to flow out ...
    Now it works ok :)
  • #10 16742644
    BILGO
    Level 38  
    Exactly, an automatic air vent should be built into the meter ;)
  • #11 16742737
    Leon444
    Level 26  
    Yes, but there are those with a vent? Rather not?
  • #12 16742740
    BILGO
    Level 38  
    Leon444 wrote:
    Yes, but there are those with a vent? Rather not?

    The problem is that I haven't encountered such a thing ;) But you can be tempted to modify. DO the bleed needle screw in the existing meter stand :D Or have fun turning the meter from time to time
  • #13 16742796
    kolys
    Level 20  
    That's right, boiler manufacturers have made a serious mistake when installing a pipe that is too high for the regulator. In addition to the problem of aeration, this also causes a delayed reaction of the regulator when the temperature drops (hysteresis) because despite the fact that the temperature has long dropped on the boiler, hot water still remains trapped in this vertical tube because there is no way to cool down. But there are several ways to solve the problem of aeration.
    First make sure that the boiler is placed on the floor in the right way. If the pipe for the regulator is at the top of the boiler (as in your case), the front of the boiler must not be higher than the rear. Ideally, the front of the boiler should be tilted 2-3 millimeters lower than the back. Check with a spirit level if possible.
    You can also shorten the pipe for the regulator by a few cm but for this you will need a steel cutting eraser and a threader and this may void the boiler warranty.
    Another way that worked out very well for me is to mount a tee on this pipe and connect the central outlet of the tee to the supply pipe. This pipe will then be used for venting, so it is important that the pipe is tilted in the right direction. An additional advantage of this solution is the water circulation through the tee and this causes the regulator to react faster to temperature changes, especially when the temperature drops because hot water is not trapped under the regulator.
  • #14 16742934
    BILGO
    Level 38  
    kolys wrote:
    That's right, boiler manufacturers have made a serious mistake when installing a pipe that is too high for the regulator. In addition to the problem of aeration, this also causes a delayed reaction of the regulator when the temperature drops (hysteresis) because despite the fact that the temperature has long dropped on the boiler, hot water still remains trapped in this vertical tube because there is no way to cool down. But there are several ways to solve the problem of aeration.
    First make sure that the boiler is placed on the floor in the right way. If the pipe for the regulator is at the top of the boiler (as in your case), the front of the boiler must not be higher than the rear. Ideally, the front of the boiler should be tilted 2-3 millimeters lower than the back. Check with a spirit level if possible.
    You can also shorten the pipe for the regulator by a few cm but for this you will need a steel cutting eraser and a threader and this may void the boiler warranty.
    Another way that worked out very well for me is to mount a tee on this pipe and connect the central outlet of the tee to the supply pipe. This pipe will then be used for venting, so it is important that the pipe is tilted in the right direction. An additional advantage of this solution is the water circulation through the tee and this causes the regulator to react faster to temperature changes, especially when the temperature drops because hot water is not trapped under the regulator.

    Cool patents ;) especially with a tee.
  • #15 16922168
    wisienkka
    Level 2  
    Hello from what I know for SAS boilers there are 1/2 inch measures and the problem is in the construction of these measures, compared with the 3/4 gauge. With the latter, it is screwed into the water jacket and there is no problem with aeration. link 3/4 https://www.domer.pl >...> regulators, chimney draft regulators link 1/2 inch. https://www.domer.pl/regulator-ciagu-kominowego-miarkownik-powietrza-regulus-1-2-cala.html
  • #16 17401196
    Leon444
    Level 26  
    The construction of the boiler turns out to be a problem, once in a while I have to loosen the denominator to release the air accumulated under it ...
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around recurring issues with air draft regulators for SAS wood stoves, specifically the Regulus and Afriso FR1 models. The original Regulus regulator failed after one year, becoming unresponsive to temperature changes. The user replaced it with an Afriso regulator, which initially functioned well but also exhibited similar problems after a year. Suggestions from other users included checking for air accumulation under the regulator, ensuring proper installation, and considering modifications to improve functionality. The user discovered that loosening the regulator allowed trapped air to escape, restoring its operation. The conversation highlights the importance of proper installation and maintenance to prevent air lock issues and improve the performance of these regulators.
Summary generated by the language model.
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