De Dietrich 24 MI FF Stove: Resolving Error E10 and Flame Ignition Failures

Hello. I am asking for help, I have had a new 2-function stove for several months, the first problem appeared, in the manual it is too low pressure in the system, when I started it for the first time, I had a similar symbol of a bathtub with a small amount of water, an indication of no water ... or air in the system, I unscrewed the vent cap, the air hissed and the problem was over. Now the problem has reappeared, error E10, the cap is not on the vent and the air does not hiss from the vent and the system is still "cold" and this error is blinking. I tried bleeding through the pump and nothing helped. How can I fix it, so far I have cold water. How to fix it?

Boiler water pressure should be topped up. There is a water release valve under the boiler.

Thanks for the quick answer, but this is not the system of this furnace, the CO system is full, I overfilled the expansion vessel earlier and I do not know why this closed system of the furnace in which there is a heat exchanger (the ribbed acid tube) and an expansion vessel are not vented automatically. The problem is ... still

krzychu455 wrote:

I poured the expansion vessel earlier

What is the pressure on the pressure gauge in the boiler ?!

As my friend understands, you have a boiler connected to the installation via a clutch, so these are two independent circuits, the one on the side of the boiler should have pressure and the one on the other side only static, add water to the boiler and the problem will resolve itself, the colleague was right to advise ...

3.1.13. It is forbidden to publish entries that violate the spelling rules of the Polish language, careless and incomprehensible.
Correct the post!
mod.serwisant73
PS Since it's such a problem with reading that there are no Polish characters ... I'm not going to write any more from the phone, sorry

igrzelczyk wrote:

the boiler is connected to the installation via a coupling, so these are two independent circuits, the one from the boiler side should have pressure and the other side only static

The low loss header is not a heat exchanger. So there is the same heating water on both sides of the coupling. Such a mistake is not befitting a heating equipment service technician.

Thanks to my friends, the problem stopped by itself, as it was a few days earlier, by itself. The problem returns when the pressure in the water network is low (the beginning of the red scale of the pressure gauge) and the system is not able to vent itself, and in a closed circuit - the one with a plate exchanger - air is produced when heating the water. Too little pressure from the network is not able to vent the system and error E10 occurs. When the pressure in the water supply network rises on a green scale, the system ventilates itself, and you're in trouble. The stove starts correctly, heats the water.
Regards
PS. Even service technicians learn with practice.

You confuse and mix the water supply system with the central heating system, or you have a water refilling valve permanently open in the central heating system - but never mind. It is important that the boiler is working

krzychu455 wrote:

the one with a plate exchanger

And yet I was right that someone used an exchanger as a clutch .... You are terribly tense, Gentlemen, Professionals

igrzelczyk wrote:

And yet I was right that someone used an exchanger

I doubt you are right. The customer, writing about the operation of the exchanger in the boiler ... MI (2-function) thinks (this is how it results from the description of the boiler operation) that tap water is mixed with boiler water (and vice versa). I understand that you will not agree to such a pouring of water and you will state unequivocally that the clutch is not a heat exchanger

igrzelczyk wrote:

And yet I was right that someone used an exchanger as a clutch

I'm trying to figure it out and ... I can't. Can you explain that? The clutch is one thing and the exchanger is a completely different story.

You're right, I don't have much experience (yet) with 2-function boilers. The problem appears from time to time and for the vent to work, I let water into the system (such a plastic valve from the bottom in the boiler system), I analyze the diagram and unless the pressure gauge for the installation in the boiler shows anything, I would have to close the heating system using a safety system with an expansion vessel, now I have expansion vessel (open system) is not a problem, as soon as I do it ... I will describe whether I have figured it out correctly
It surprised me a bit because the first time I started, I had the same situation and I unscrewed the cap on the vent near the pump and the system filled and worked without problems for about 3.5 months. and now sometimes I have cold water, although in general I am satisfied with the device because it works quietly and is economical.

Hello again, "Sepcialist"
I coped with the stove, he worked in the season, he burned the gas quite a bit, but it's rather normal because maintaining the temperature on the DHW stove also costs, the old stove did not have it, I had to light the candle every now and then because the blast was extinguishing and here the luxuries I forgot that I have a gas stove, it works quietly, etc.
I had an open central heating system for the old furnace, I connected a new furnace and, as I mentioned in previous posts, it triggered the E-10 error, it got air and did not work, I had to manually allow water into the system and after a few seconds of work the situation repeated because the pressure from the system was escaping to circulation and the problem all over again. To eliminate the problem, I used a closed system, but the old installation was not suitable. I made a small closed system based on a plate heat exchanger with a protection system (diaphragm vessel, deaerator, pressure gauge and water supply from the network through a water pressure reducer - up to 2atm) and a central heating pump to the heat exchanger.
In addition to the old solid fuel stove, I also have a fireplace with a water jacket in the system, which I included in the central heating circuit with forced circulation, another pump that is turned on only when I light the fireplace. It is secured for the long winter ... just to make the fuel cheaper !!!
Regards
Christopher.

Hello. I have a De Dietrich MCR II 24kW stove, the heat exchanger broke down, so I replaced it with a new one, but now I get an E10 error. I am figuring this is the reason the coil is not venting, so I am doing my best, but nothing helps. I do not suspect the pump because it feels like it turns on. Any ideas? Someone help?

The fact that the pump turns on does not mean that it works, it may have damaged blades, maybe you have incorrectly connected the sensors, maybe you have clogged filters, or too little pressure, the pressure gauge may jam or the pointer vibrates when venting? if you do not need to detach the tube with a pin. If you don't have closed valves you need to check the low pressure switch if it's the last version of mcr2. You may also have a broken plastic filter hidden just below the vent block, and the vent itself may also be out of order. What happened to the old exchanger, did you buy the original or cheaper replacement?

Thanks for the answer. I connected the sensors well, when it comes to the filter under the vent, I rinsed it, the vent works properly (it hissed now, a drop of water is flying when unscrewed) I changed the pressure (the manometer works correctly, I checked it, the pointer vibrates) as the pump turns on, the pointer also jumps on higher pressure. The old exchanger had a cracked coil, I bought a cheaper replacement.

It turned out that the sensor was placed slightly on the bend of the return tube, it did not stick well. It was enough to move it. The stove is working properly.

Just remember to put on the flue gas temperature sensor that the old exchanger is different in the duo tec replacement