logo elektroda
logo elektroda
X
logo elektroda
Dostępna jest polska wersja

Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?

Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tam

Citroen C4 GP 1.6 HDI: Experiencing Jerks and Interruptions during Cold Engine Start-Up

vipek 51192 14
ADVERTISEMENT
Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #1 16764167
    vipek
    Level 2  
    Hello colleagues.
    For several months I have been struggling with an undiagnosed defect in my Lemon C4 GP 1.6 HDI.
    After starting a cold engine, it works equally well, but after starting and shifting to a higher gear, there are one-second jerks / breaks - as if something was slightly stuck and immediately disconnected. This also happens after the vehicle exits the turn adding gas / where the vehicle tilts and returns after the turn back to the vertical. Interrupts appear sporadically and disappear immediately after the engine warms up.
    The engine runs evenly after the engine has warmed up. Very good acceleration. The only error code that appears during diagbox diagnostics is a power failure of one glow plug ...
    I do not know if in this model the candles play a key role after starting the engine, i.e. do they maintain the temperature in the combustion chambers for some time to even out the engine ??? / and whether the burned candle would have an impact on these interruptions. As I mentioned, after warming up the engine everything returns to normal.
    Recently replaced or repaired:
    - turbine solenoid valve;
    - injection regeneration;
    - replacement of all filters;
    - checking the flow meter;
    - FAP regenerates properly;
    I have some suspicion that it may not close EGR - but the error code is missing.
    I know that blinding will not do anything in this vehicle because the software can still see it "
    I have not tried to disconnect the plug from the Flap, which also controls the EGR, Safe mode will probably light up, but I do not know if this is a good lead ???
    I will be grateful for any suggestions.
    I greet my friends beautifully. Paul.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • Helpful post
    #2 16764383
    Bunny82
    Level 16  
    Don't mess with these stupid ideas because it won't do you any good. Toy car at the computer and look at the parameters of how the EGR works and whether the flow indications at different degrees of valve opening change. With this engine, the candle may also be to blame due to the fact that during the FAP after-burning, the candles are warmed up to increase the combustion temperature in the engine compartment, which improves after-burning of the fap.
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #3 16765900
    vipek
    Level 2  
    Thank you colleague for the answer .. :D
    The computer does not show any errors other than the burned candle, so I hope she is to blame for everything. I was just thinking about the EGR throttle not closing - where the margin of error is small and the computer does not yet detect it as an error .. However, you are right. I guess you should start with what is known.
    Of course, the witty French had to write candles behind the rear engine bulkhead to make life easier. Because of this, good access for the watchmaker. Replacement b. Expensive and probably a greater risk of the candle getting twisted :(
  • #4 16765983
    willyvmm
    Level 31  
    I do not understand what the problem with candles? You give to a site that makes French cars and exchanges. The risk is then theirs.
    Why didn't you buy a "belt in tdik" since the witty Frenchmen were so fierce ... the engine.
    In this engine, the candles heat up the engine as it is cold, so it may matter.
    Although I would concentrate on the fact that the symptom appears after exiting the bend, heel. Is the effect the same with a full fuel tank?
    IN.
  • #5 16766050
    vipek
    Level 2  
    Haaaa, you're right ... "they saw the gala what they were taking" - I have nothing to complain about now ...
    I am very grateful to you for confirming my assumptions about maintaining the temperature in the combustion chambers in the initial phase ... because the symptom disappears completely after driving 2-3 km ...
    When it comes to the roll of the vehicle after entering the bend and adding light gas after exiting the bend, jerks / "slight tapping / smothering" appear only in the first few minutes of driving from starting a cold engine at night / - then of course the car drives like gold. Thanks for the suggestion because I did not check if this phenomenon occurs after a full refueling of the vehicle .. However, I noticed a certain regularity that the higher the ambient temperature is this symptom did not occur / e.g. in summer / almost at all after starting the ride, or much less often ... I even thought about getting the fuel system airy ??? Of course, this is my reflection - maybe not accurate :D . What you wrote about maintaining the temperature by the candles in the initial phase of heating the engine could actually coincide with the temperature outside. I am going to send you that if it is very positive, the combustion chambers are not so cold and the heating time is much shorter and even with a burned candle there are no jerks then. Of course I do not want to mislead you with my layman's suggestions, but it may give you an additional picture of the situations in which this happens.
    I also noticed / of course, I mean all the time the initial ride - the first 2-3 km. when driving with steady leg support / without adding gas / - you can feel the pulsing "forward / backward" as if the vehicle was hesitating whether to drive forward or backward >>. :D
  • #6 16788653
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #7 18229417
    doogas
    Level 11  
    And how did the story end?

    I have a very similar problem ... on the computer shows that it is poor with correction of injection, but would it cause interruption, jerking and stalling of the engine? I replaced the computer because it was defective and helped for a while, the gas pedal new .. I need to check the flow issues ...
  • #8 18935669
    ab124
    Level 11  
    And how did this story end?
  • #9 18935765
    doogas
    Level 11  
    Such a small bastard, shaft position sensor .. which did not show a problem on the computer until it completely fell and it was impossible to start the car.
  • #10 18936174
    ab124
    Level 11  
    So this is a standard - drive and observe ... until something specifically falls
  • #11 18936202
    doogas
    Level 11  
    No, something showed an error from time to time, but I bought an elm27 or something .. OBD on BT .. And I checked it myself .. And so I caught it, but I did not remove the fault because my brother-in-law wanted to borrow a car, so I told him to be careful because he interrupts .. And the next day I called for a lawete. In general, I had poor mechanics ... I exchanged things for 2,000 And you could start with that for 150 PLN with exchange ;)

    Grandfather 2006, but the mileage is original, it's a pity to sell for pennies, sooner to tuneup I'll take him ;)
  • ADVERTISEMENT
  • #12 20576617
    fredi22
    Level 1  
    I have a similar problem in the 1.6 e-hdi engine, engine code 9hd, namely after a night stop when the outside temperature is over 20 degrees as I drive at a constant speed around 2000 rpm. And suddenly I gently press the accelerator pedal, there is one jerk and such a rattle of the engine. After driving a few kilometers, usually 2/3 of this jerk does not occur. The strangest thing is that at temperatures below 20 degrees, everything is ok, even in winter, below 0, everything is ok, in general, the engine works perfectly. 0 errors in the driver.
  • #13 21197627
    Demek1991
    Level 10  
    Apart from the colleague who replaced the shaft sensor, has anyone had any other solution?
  • #14 21407793
    rysiekg3
    Level 1  
    What about the temperature sensor? Has anyone considered this, does temperature affect fuel delivery?

Topic summary

✨ The discussion concerns a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso 1.6 HDI experiencing intermittent jerks and engine interruptions during cold starts, particularly when shifting to higher gears or exiting turns. The issue disappears once the engine warms up. Diagnostic scans reveal a fault code related to a failed glow plug, raising questions about the role of glow plugs in maintaining combustion chamber temperature post-start and their impact on engine smoothness. Contributors suggest examining the EGR valve operation and flow parameters, as incomplete EGR closure might cause symptoms without triggering error codes. The glow plugs are noted to assist in after-burning of the particulate filter (FAP) by maintaining combustion temperature. Other potential causes discussed include fuel system air ingress, fuel flow sensor (flowmeter) malfunction, accelerator pedal position sensor faults, and crankshaft position sensor failure, which may intermittently cause jerks or stalling. Some users report similar symptoms linked to injection correction faults and temperature-dependent behavior, with jerks more frequent at higher ambient temperatures. Testing strategies include unplugging the flowmeter to isolate sensor issues and monitoring error codes with OBD tools. The glow plug replacement is considered costly and challenging due to their location. Overall, the problem appears multifactorial, involving glow plug function, EGR system performance, sensor integrity, and fuel delivery, with temperature and vehicle dynamics influencing symptom manifestation.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Cold‑start jerks on C4 Grand Picasso 1.6 HDi often fade after “the symptom disappears completely after driving 2–3 km.” Check glow plugs, MAF/EGR logic, and the crank sensor first. [Elektroda, vipek, post #16766050]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps owners quickly pinpoint cold‑start hesitation and avoid costly, shotgun parts replacement.

Quick Facts

What typically causes cold‑start jerks on a Citroën C4 GP 1.6 HDi?

Common culprits are weak glow plugs, skewed MAF readings affecting EGR, fuel delivery issues, accelerator pedal sensor noise, or a failing crankshaft sensor. Start with live data for EGR position and airflow. Then perform a quick MAF‑unplug test to separate MAF error from EGR leakage or fuelling problems. This structured approach avoids random part swaps and targets the root cause faster. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16788653]

Can one bad glow plug really cause hesitation right after startup?

Yes. On this engine, glow plugs heat the combustion chambers when cold and also assist DPF/FAP after‑burn. A failed plug can worsen cold idle quality and make tip‑in feel jerky for a short distance. As the engine warms, the effect fades. “With this engine, the candle may also be to blame.” Replace confirmed bad plugs before chasing other systems. [Elektroda, Bunny82, post #16764383]

How do I run the quick MAF‑unplug test to check EGR vs MAF?

Do this on a safe road: 1) With the engine off, unplug the MAF connector. 2) Start and drive to reproduce the jerk. 3) If the jerk disappears, suspect a faulty MAF; if it persists, suspect EGR leakage, fuelling, or the pedal sensor. Unplugging forces the ECU to close EGR because airflow is unknown. Restore the plug after testing. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16788653]

Why do the jerks disappear after 2–3 km?

As the engine and combustion chambers warm, ignition stabilizes and EGR/air‑fuel control becomes less sensitive to marginal sensors or a weak glow plug. Owners report the issue vanishing after about 2–3 km of driving from a cold start. That distance aligns with rapid warm‑up and post‑glow taper. Use this clue to focus on cold‑phase components first. [Elektroda, vipek, post #16766050]

Could the crankshaft position sensor be bad even if no code is stored?

Yes. A crank sensor can cause intermittent jerks and stalls without an immediate fault code. In a documented case, it produced symptoms until it failed completely, after which the engine would not start. Replacing the sensor resolved the issue. Consider monitoring live RPM signal dropouts and replacing the sensor if corroborated. [Elektroda, doogas, post #18935765]

Does ambient temperature change this symptom?

Some owners see a clear temperature link: a single jerk and rattle when it’s above ~20°C after an overnight stop, with no issues below that. No error codes appear. Temperature‑dependent behavior points to sensors influencing fueling or EGR strategy. Log intake and coolant temperatures during the event to guide testing. [Elektroda, fredi22, post #20576617]

How can a cheap OBD tool help catch intermittent faults?

An ELM327‑type Bluetooth adapter can log occasional errors or sensor dropouts that workshops may miss. One owner captured the fault intermittently, then the crank sensor failed completely the next day. Low‑cost logging helped direct a 150 PLN repair instead of parts swapping worth thousands. “I bought an ELM27… and I checked it myself.” [Elektroda, doogas, post #18936202]

Should I regenerate or replace injectors early in the process?

Avoid expensive injector work until basic tests are done. If behavior is unchanged before and after injector service, that spend was unnecessary. First validate the MAF/EGR logic, fuel circuit integrity, and accelerator pedal sensor with guided tests. Only move to injectors if data supports it. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16788653]

Could fuel slosh in turns be the reason for jerks right after startup?

It can contribute if fuel pickup is marginal. A practical check is to compare behavior with a full tank versus low fuel during early minutes after a cold start. If the symptom only appears when fuel is low, inspect the pickup and lines. Also confirm glow plug health. [Elektroda, willyvmm, post #16765983]

Do coolant or intake‑air temperature sensors affect fueling enough to cause a jerk?

Yes, temperature inputs shape fueling and EGR strategy during warm‑up. One case showed a jerk only above ~20°C with zero stored faults. If your symptom maps to ambient temperature, validate temperature sensor readings in live data and compare to actual conditions. Replace if values are implausible. [Elektroda, fredi22, post #20576617]

What if there are no fault codes at all?

Intermittent issues may not set codes immediately. Users report clean ECUs despite repeatable jerks at specific temperatures. In such cases, rely on live data trends and provoke the fault while logging. Target MAF/EGR behavior, pedal signal stability, RPM signal, and glow circuit. [Elektroda, fredi22, post #20576617]

Any fixes besides the crank sensor that actually helped owners?

Yes. Isolating a skewed MAF resolved jerks when unplugging it stopped the fault, confirming MAF error. When unplugging did not help, focus shifted to EGR leakage or fuel/accelerator circuits. This decision tree narrowed causes quickly without needless parts swapping. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #16788653]

Is it OK to blind the EGR or unplug the throttle flap to diagnose?

Skip crude hacks. Use proper diagnostics and parameter checks instead. An experienced member advises putting the car on a scan tool and verifying EGR flow responses across commanded openings. That approach avoids limp mode and misleading results. “Don’t mess with these stupid ideas.” [Elektroda, Bunny82, post #16764383]

What’s the smartest first step before spending money?

Scan live data for EGR position versus command and airflow changes, then perform the MAF‑unplug isolation test. This targets the most likely logic faults early. If glow plug faults are stored, replace the bad plug first as it directly affects cold drivability. [Elektroda, Bunny82, post #16764383]
Generated by the language model.
ADVERTISEMENT