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Lack of Power in Citroen Jumper 2.2 HDI 2008: Regeneration, Temperature Sensor, EGR, ABS Sensors

adrbis2 21348 12
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  • #1 16781788
    adrbis2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 7
    Hello
    A topic like a river from what I see in various forums.
    But I can't see my case. And I'm perpetual from the beginning.
    I bought a jumper at the end of last year, everything was ok, he came to me in France, except for regeneration of the starter before leaving, everything was ok, and the rubble began to work a bit and it started to work out that the temperature sensor is walety (boiled once) I exchanged I haven't checked yet then the fan and I boiled a second time then I replaced the fan because it was also sealed. But after the latter, the mole's power clearly dropped to 3,000 revolutions later, the hole I was looking for combined, but I came to nothing except that I eliminated the seal under the head with no traces indicating it. Now in September I went to Poland a hard road 20h 1300km disaster. Well, in pl I exchanged egr I exchanged 2 abs sensors, I regenerated the injection and the only thing left in the errors in the computer is the glow plug and abs (abs pump abs sensors abs recirculation pump) my question is whether this abs can let it go into emergency mode and this is why goes up to 100km downhill a little faster And under is a disaster.? I will add that nothing on the board shines except the handbrake. In addition, it does not show me speed yet. My hands and head are already falling down and I will be waiting for the next trip to pl I can not wait. Maybe some of you have had such a case or know if it can really be a problem? Thank you for any advice, best regards
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  • #2 16782192
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2427
    Help: 286
    Rate: 1090
    In a difficult situation like yours, no forum will help you. you need to go to a specialist with a good reputation, make a diagnosis in such a workshop and then wonder what to do next. After all, it is enough to do a road test with a computer to see during the fault the pressure on the CR, the boost pressure of the flowmeter indication. Or maybe after all your overheating there is simply no compression. Nobody can do it online.
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  • #3 16782886
    adrbis2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 7
    Well, yes, I agree, but after firing up at the first moment for a minute goes normal and after a while jump error is again mule. Same as when driving agrees and turn it on moves like new until it catches a mistake again and history repeats itself.
  • #4 16783212
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2427
    Help: 286
    Rate: 1090
    What error is registering?
  • #5 16783695
    adrbis2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 7
    Recently, only glow plugs and abs were lit, abs sensors and everything in total. Tomorrow I will be in the garage and I will check if it is all but normally.
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  • #6 16784110
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2427
    Help: 286
    Rate: 1090
    What errors are registered in the engine controller when the car loses power?
  • #7 16784193
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    Posts: 12262
    Help: 957
    Rate: 3833
    Diagnostics are not only errors. This car is great at OBD what it has and wants. Just a good interface and kumaty mechanic.
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  • #8 16784236
    ptr92
    Level 19  
    Posts: 559
    Help: 27
    Rate: 247
    If it was a recharging pressure and CR, then the check engine would light up.
    Waves you at idle?
    EGR, do you have a vacuum? Try to unclip and oxygenate the vacuum coming from the EGR converter, because it may let the transmitter through.
    If nothing helps, you can still disconnect the flow meter and check if the collector is tight.
  • #9 16786715
    adrbis2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 7
    The problem is solved. ...
    I reviewed the whole bunch of abs from behind, it was enough to remove the left front wheel and solder the broken cable from the speed sensor, everything returned to normal. Such a small matter and so much damage caused everyone thanks for help
  • #10 16786908
    ptr92
    Level 19  
    Posts: 559
    Help: 27
    Rate: 247
    But ABS and lack of power have nothing to do, especially when the cable is broken, when the system is broken.
  • #11 16786929
    adamkowalski431
    Level 16  
    Posts: 387
    Help: 7
    Rate: 72
    But he wrote that it is from the speed sensor
  • #12 16788474
    adrbis2
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 7
    There was a tragedy uphill empty it is difficult to drive up and one small soldering was enough and everything came back speedometer and power. And it brakes better. But it's good after a long break. Well, I already have a lot of good work on it, but there are still poerdoles left
  • #13 18258767
    radosek
    Level 2  
    Posts: 2
    Rate: 25
    Hello,
    Colleagues I have such a problem with the Jumper 2007 2.2HDi 100KM. He throws me a Check Engine and the car loses power, after switching off and firing again, it goes on sometimes even 100km without a problem. I would like to mention that the only thing I noticed is that after lighting up when it is cold, it rotates a bit. Did you have a similar case? What could it be? I haven't connected the car to my computer yet.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Citroen Jumper 2.2 HDI (2008) experiencing a significant loss of power, particularly after overheating incidents. The user initially replaced the temperature sensor and fan but continued to face issues, including a drop in power at 3,000 RPM. Various components such as the EGR valve and ABS sensors were also replaced, yet the problem persisted. Forum members suggested that a thorough diagnostic check is essential, emphasizing the importance of checking for error codes and conducting a road test to assess fuel pressure and boost pressure. Ultimately, the user resolved the issue by repairing a broken cable from the ABS speed sensor, which restored both power and braking performance. The discussion highlights the interconnectedness of various vehicle systems and the importance of proper diagnostics in troubleshooting.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Forum cases show a repeating pattern: after restart, some Jumper 2.2 HDi vans run fine for up to 100 km, then lose power; one user reports, "He throws me a Check Engine and the car loses power." [Elektroda, radosek, post #18258767]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Citroën Jumper/Boxer/Ducato owners and techs quickly isolate no‑power faults that mimic limp mode.

Quick Facts

What causes sudden power loss that clears after a restart?

Owners report a transient limp condition: the van pulls well for a minute or after a restart, then an error returns and power drops. That pattern points to a sensor or control signal that goes out-of-range under load, not a permanently failed turbo. Capture live data at the exact moment power falls to see which parameter deviates. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16782886]

Can a broken ABS or wheel speed sensor wire really kill engine power?

Yes—one solved case showed a severed left‑front wheel speed sensor wire. The van had poor climb performance and a dead speedometer; soldering the wire restored full power and speed readout. “Such a small matter and so much damage.” This links vehicle speed input to engine torque management on this platform. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16786715]

Why did my speedometer die at the same time the van lost power?

In the solved case, the speedometer read zero because the wheel speed signal was missing. The engine then acted like it was in a power‑limited state. Repairing the speed sensor wiring brought back the speedometer and normal acceleration. Braking feel also improved after the fix. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16788474]

Which live data should I log on a road test to pinpoint the fault?

Log common‑rail (CR) pressure, boost pressure, and mass‑airflow (MAF) during a full‑throttle pull where the fault occurs. Compare commanded vs. actual values at the exact second power drops. A competent shop can do this quickly and reliably in one session. [Elektroda, Doktorr, post #16782192]

Do ABS faults by themselves put the ECU into limp mode on a Jumper?

One member asserts, “ABS and lack of power have nothing to do,” arguing a broken ABS circuit shouldn’t limit engine torque. However, the thread’s fix shows at least one case where restoring the wheel speed signal coincided with full power return. Treat ABS inputs as part of diagnosis. [Elektroda, ptr92, post #16786908]

What quick checks can I do for EGR or MAF related limp?

Verify the EGR vacuum line and its solenoid don’t leak. Temporarily unplug the MAF to force a default airflow value, then test drive. Also check the intake tract for leaks. If power improves with MAF unplugged, suspect the sensor or air leaks. Reconnect after testing. [Elektroda, ptr92, post #16784236]

The dash only shows the handbrake light—can the engine still be in a reduced‑power state?

Yes. The original poster noted no warning lamps except the handbrake while the van struggled to exceed ~100 km/h and the speedometer was dead. Don’t rely on the MIL alone; scan the engine ECU for active and stored faults during the event. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16781788]

What does “CR pressure” mean and why does it matter here?

CR stands for common‑rail fuel pressure. During limp events, compare commanded vs. actual CR to see if fueling collapses under load. A healthy system tracks commands tightly; a large drop suggests supply, pump control, or sensor issues rather than turbo failure. Road‑test logging is essential. [Elektroda, Doktorr, post #16782192]

How do I do a quick driveway check of a front wheel speed sensor circuit?

  1. Safely lift the front, remove the suspect wheel (often left‑front in the case here).
  2. Inspect the sensor lead for breaks near the hub; gently tug and look for green corrosion.
  3. Repair the break (solder/heat‑shrink) and secure the harness, then road test to confirm speedometer and power return. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16786715]

Could earlier overheating cause lasting low power?

Yes. A member warned that repeated overheating can reduce compression, causing chronic low power regardless of sensors. If the van overheated, add a compression test and cylinder leak‑down to your plan before replacing parts. “Maybe… there is simply no compression.” [Elektroda, Doktorr, post #16782192]

Is it safe to keep driving long distances before fixing the fault?

It’s unwise. The OP described a 20‑hour, 1,300 km trip as a “disaster” due to limited power, heat stress, and driveability risk. Continuing like this can mask root causes and strain components. Fix the underlying fault before another long haul. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16781788]

Why does power return for a minute after startup, then drop again?

This behavior suggests a control system that initializes normally, then flags a fault once a threshold or plausibility check fails under load. The ECU reduces torque to protect hardware. Capturing live data at the fault moment is key. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16782886]

Which questions should I ask my shop to speed up diagnosis?

Ask for a monitored road test with logs of CR pressure, boost, and MAF at WOT; confirmation of EGR vacuum control; wheel speed sensor status; and a compression test if overheating occurred. Choose a workshop with proven PSA/Fiat light‑commercial experience. [Elektroda, Doktorr, post #16782192]

Should I clear codes first or repair wiring then clear?

Repair the evident fault, then clear codes, and perform a monitored drive cycle. In the case here, fixing the sensor wire immediately restored power and cleared related symptoms without chasing other parts. Verify with a post‑repair scan. [Elektroda, adrbis2, post #16786715]

What is OBD and why is this van said to be “great at OBD”?

OBD is onboard diagnostics. Members note the Jumper exposes rich live data through OBD, which makes root‑cause identification fast with a capable interface and technician. Use that strength to see what the ECU sees when power drops. [Elektroda, kortyleski, post #16784193]
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