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Scenic II 1.9DCI - fuel pressure sensors on the rail are damaged

cycoh 31104 14
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  • #1 16837400
    cycoh
    Level 11  
    Hello
    Well, I have a problem with Scenic II 1.9DCI 120KM in the workshop.
    The car has this problem that the pressure sensors on the injection rail have already been replaced three times in two months.
    The car once walks once and not once :)
    As it is not the error shows the pressure sensor on the ramp and exactly the circuit of the injection pressure sensor DF007
    I attach Clipa and look at the parameters the pressure on the skirt very much is recommended 250BAR, but when the car tugs and extinguishes the fault fault injection and the pressure on the ramp is all the time 250bar (as if the circuit is broken) as I pop something into a sensor that drops 5bar and then the car can be ignited.
    I have 3 suspicions or a sensor? (but the third one already?) or a beam from the sensor to the computer or the computer itself.

    The injections keep the parameters as well as I put on the above mentioned things.

    Did someone have a similar problem eg in Megane 2 because it is the closest?
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  • #2 16837926
    jenusz11
    Level 20  
    Or maybe there is something that regulates this pressure?
  • #3 16837932
    cycoh
    Level 11  
    but explain one thing, the car walks until it makes a mistake, the Logie shows the logs as the set value on the strip, how it is to the actual value, the real value is once more 400 times the same and once smaller.
    How do you make the mistake, the value is 250, so it's like a break in the dropship, I knock the sensor with the key, the value drops and the car ignites
  • #4 16837975
    jenusz11
    Level 20  
    check the beam but the sensors rarely fall as opposed to the pwm valves, and so will always blow the sensor error
  • #5 16840267
    cycoh
    Level 11  
    Well, not really, because when I unhook the valve on the pump, it crashes another error at all.
    the best thing is that if I take a hit with the sensor alone, just tap it lightly :)
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  • #6 16840315
    daras41
    Level 26  
    If you bang the key with the sensor, do not be surprised that it is falling. If the pressure regulator is mechanically damaged, there will be a pressure sensor error.
  • #7 16840320
    jenusz11
    Level 20  
    So you're saying you needed 3 sensors? it's like getting 6 in a shuttlecock so that 4 sensors are damaged

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    you want help and you do not listen to the hints
  • #8 16840426
    cycoh
    Level 11  
    I have a car at my workshop, I have just started to diagnose it, the owner said that he has replaced the sensor three times and the same. the ones that are currently definitely damaged in some degree either by shorting in the installation or by some other damage.

    because how to explain that the car is standing there is a pressure sensor error on the clip and the value of this sensor 250 BAR, slightly knock sensor drops to 7bar, the car ignites for some time and again crashes the error, slightly knocking in the sensor and so around Maciej.
    I do not hit the sensor with a hammer, I barely touch it.

    If I unpin it, it is known that the circuit break is 250 BAR.
    as I unhook the sensor on the pump, there is an error from the sensor on the pump not from the pressure sensor on the strip.
    I have to traverse a bunch of what I found out will be the middle cube at the computer Pins D1 D2 and D3.

    Added after 7 [minutes]:

    a high pressure pump on the pump how to check?
  • #9 16840519
    jenusz11
    Level 20  
    First, never towers to the end what the client says, you know what is the difference between electrical and mechanical damage? you confuse the concept does not have to be a break in the perimeter that something is damaged, do you know the exact operating principle of the cr system?
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  • #10 16841734
    andrzej20001
    Level 43  
    On the strip you have a bleed valve on the other side ??
  • #11 16841772
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    Bent pins in the sensor plug or torn cable at the sensor itself can also cause blood to the man. Like a bleed valve, it always tumbles with a "too low pressure" error.
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  • #12 16841786
    cycoh
    Level 11  
    I ordered the whole strip together with the sensor, I will replace it and the plug, too.
    I put the sensor from the pump into an ultrasonic cleaner, let it wash.
  • #13 16849561
    cycoh
    Level 11  
    sensor replaced with another, mentioned sensor plug, proven wiring continuity. The car is driving while nothing happens. we'll see how long the problem will come back,
  • #14 16895123
    studzinek
    Level 16  
    Hello.
    I will join the topic.
    I have had a similar problem with Scenic II 1.9 DCI 120 PS for a long time.
    I noticed that the car loses power after traveling about 100-200 km from the moment the pressure sensor was installed on the ramp. After the change, it goes like a storm, after a distance it starts to muddle up, the engine louder works and has no power. I will bet another one, not necessarily new and work beautifully for another 200 km. I will not work on sensors :-)
    Recently a service appeared on the review when the pedal was suddenly pressed to the floor and the engine went out. Error - low pressure on the ramp.
    greetings
    studzinek
  • #15 16897311
    Doktorr
    Level 35  
    It did not occur to you that it was the pressure of the pressure, not the sensor.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a recurring issue with the Renault Scenic II 1.9DCI, where the fuel pressure sensors on the injection rail have been replaced multiple times without resolving the problem. The user reports that the car intermittently runs well but often displays a fault related to the injection pressure sensor (DF007), with consistent readings of 250 BAR. Various suggestions are made, including checking the wiring harness, the pressure regulator, and the possibility of mechanical damage to the sensors. The user also considers the potential for short circuits affecting the sensors. Another participant shares a similar experience, indicating that the car loses power after a certain distance, suggesting that the issue may not solely be with the sensors but could involve the pressure system itself. The user plans to replace the entire strip and sensor assembly to address the issue.
Generated by the language model.

FAQ

TL;DR: Scenic II 1.9 dCi with DF007 and a fixed 250 bar reading? In 3 replacements over 2 months, the sensor read “the value of this sensor 250 BAR…unpin = circuit break.” Check wiring/plug and pressure control before swapping sensors again. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16840426]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps DIYers and techs fix erratic rail-pressure faults without wasting money on unnecessary sensors.

Quick Facts

What does DF007 mean on a Renault Scenic II 1.9 dCi?

DF007 points to the common-rail pressure sensor circuit on the fuel rail. It indicates the ECU detects an electrical circuit issue, not proof the sensor element is bad. Diagnose wiring, connector fit, and ECU-side continuity before replacing hardware. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16837400]

Why does my live data show a constant 250 bar on the rail?

On this setup, a fixed 250 bar value often appears when the rail pressure sensor circuit is open or unplugged. The ECU substitutes a default reading. Inspect the connector, repair damaged wires, and confirm continuity to the ECU pins before condemning the sensor. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16840426]

Is it common to need multiple rail pressure sensors?

No. Community experience says sensors fail less often than control (PWM) valves, yet the ECU can still log a sensor fault when pressure control is bad. As one tech notes, “sensors rarely fall as opposed to the pwm valves.” [Elektroda, jenusz11, post #16837975]

Tapping the sensor makes it start—what does that tell me?

A light tap changing the reading (for example, dropping from 250 bar to 7 bar) points to a contact or internal sensor fault. Focus on the plug fit, pin tension, and harness strain right at the sensor before deeper system work. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16840426]

Could the plug or wiring cause DF007 and starting issues?

Yes. Bent pins, loose terminals, or a torn lead at the sensor can cause erratic pressure data and repeated DF007. Repair the connector and verify signal and ground continuity to the ECU for a durable fix. [Elektroda, Doktorr, post #16841772]

Does a bad pressure regulator make the ECU blame the sensor?

It can. A mechanically damaged pressure regulator can destabilize rail pressure so the ECU flags the sensor. If pressure control hardware sticks, expect pressure faults even with a good sensor. “If the pressure regulator is mechanically damaged, there will be a pressure sensor error.” [Elektroda, daras41, post #16840315]

What about the bleed/relief valve on the rail—what happens if it fails?

A faulty bleed/relief valve can cause genuine low-pressure conditions under load. In such cases the ECU posts a “too low pressure” type error. Inspect for leaks or stuck-open behavior if the engine lacks power. [Elektroda, Doktorr, post #16841772]

After replacing the sensor, power drops again after 100–200 km—why?

A user observed strong performance right after a sensor swap, then power loss and louder running after 100–200 km, ending with a low-pressure fault. This pattern suggests underlying pressure-control or fuel-supply issues rather than sensor failure. [Elektroda, studzinek, post #16895123]

Could low fuel pressure be the real culprit even if DF007 shows up?

Yes. Another contributor advises considering actual pressure loss instead of blaming the sensor again. Investigate the regulator/valve and pump health, especially under hard acceleration or long drives. “It…was the pressure…not the sensor.” [Elektroda, Doktorr, post #16897311]

How do I verify the sensor circuit to the ECU?

Trace the harness from the rail sensor to the ECU and check the middle ECU connector, pins D1, D2, and D3 for continuity and shorts. Repair any damage, then recheck live data for stable readings. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16840426]

What is a PWM valve in this fuel system?

It is the pulse-width–modulated control valve that regulates high-pressure pump delivery. Failures can mimic sensor faults and still log a sensor-related DTC. Prioritize testing the valve when repeated sensors don’t fix the issue. [Elektroda, jenusz11, post #16837975]

How can I test the pump control path without misdiagnosing the sensor?

Unplugging the pump’s control valve throws a different error than the rail sensor fault. Use that behavior to separate control-side issues from the rail sensor circuit, then pursue the path that matches the active DTC. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16840267]

What quick steps should I follow to troubleshoot DF007?

  1. Inspect the rail sensor plug for bent pins, loose terminals, and torn wires.
  2. Verify continuity from the sensor to ECU pins D1–D3 and repair faults.
  3. Recheck live data; if pressure still misbehaves, evaluate pump/regulator hardware. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16840426]

Is ultrasonic cleaning of the pump’s control valve worthwhile?

One user cleaned the pump sensor/valve ultrasonically while also planning rail and plug replacement. Treat cleaning as supportive; confirm electrical integrity and valve function before calling it fixed. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16841786]

What result did fixing wiring and the sensor achieve in the thread?

After replacing the sensor, renewing the sensor plug, and proving wiring continuity, the car drove normally. The poster planned to monitor for recurrence, reinforcing that electrical integrity matters. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16849561]

Any edge cases I should know?

Unplugging the rail sensor forces a default 250 bar reading and a circuit-break DTC. Unplugging the pump valve, however, raises a different error, confirming the fault path. This distinction helps avoid parts roulette. [Elektroda, cycoh, post #16840426]
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