Bosch SMS53D08EU38 dishwasher E09 error - resistance of the heater

Hello, interested
In Bosch / Siemens dishwashers having a washing pump with a heater; in the older type, i.e. those that had a two-circuit heater with two segments of about 11? and a plug of old type 7 pin for wide connectors and a newer type where there was a one-circuit heater about 22? and two plugs, i.e. one for a 3-pin heater with wide connectors and NTC plug smaller.

The question is: did anyone meet with such a newer type of heater that was single-segmented and had a resistance of around 11?? I have such a heater from a pump that has such resistance, i.e. 10-11? - does it mean that the system takes about 23A of current and has a power of over 5kW? I watched the heater with a glass magnifying exactly the path and there are no visible defects or short circuits to make such a small resistance. The heater had a break at the heating bar with the pin, now it has to be replaced with a new heater, which usually have a resistance of around 22?. I wonder if with this solution will be warming up the water or after washing up the E09? Below I allowed myself to copy from the graphic and edit the picture.
PS.
My heater windings are in green color, and those with drawings in blue, the older heaters two segments of 11? each had a green color of insulation.

Hello.
I am just after repairing the same heater. I also had a break at the joint. I sold and the dishwasher works. As for the 23A current consumption, I do not want to believe anything. Check the heater power level. I suggest to solder and it will be good just like in my case.
IMG_201801...073205.jpg Download (3.38 MB) IMG_201801...083040.jpg Download (3.12 MB)

Hello, everything is already ok.
The meter that I measured was damaged. By measuring the second functional multimeter, the resistance is correct, i.e. around 22?. The break was at the same time soldering with a connector. I soldered and glue acrylic cyan on top and put together, knock for some time works properly.

Hello
Tell your friends how to put together a heater with a pump. I fixed the heater with glue with silver. The resistance is correct and the heating works, but I have a problem with assembling the whole. I have already damaged one gasket in the body with the outlet and I can not press the heaters there.
Thank you in advance for your answer.

I am using gaseous petroleum jelly, gently, and the metal part comes into a rubber gasket, I have put together several heaters and it was not a problem.
Sure how you dismantled the heater from the pump, you broke the four plastic protections that were so that the heater with the pump under pressure does not fall apart - believe me I've already seen the disconnected heater from the washing pump in the dishwashers, so create something to replace the protection from light plastic. I put on rolled in rubber with a tube or something similar.

I also did not manage to save these plastic protections. They cracked. The way is probably put a plate or knife and then try to slip off without squeezing the latch. Compression will end with a crack, you see, Bosch intentionally did. Star4you thanks for the info about this tube. Btw also burned me at the very same feed as in the first post. I hope it is copper and you can combine it with ordinary solder. I will try to put the heater on the washing up liquid

Hello after the break.
You can also use dishwashing liquid, silicone grease or technical petroleum jelly, so it's easier to take this black seal out of the pump body and apply it first to the metal part of the heater and then put together. A good way to dismantle the pump-heater in order not to break these protections is undressing - undermining with two flat screwdrivers at the same time from the opposite side than the security device, it manages to undress without breaking them.
A question for those who repaired the glue conducting the break on the heater; how much time did it last? It can not be sold normally because the tin does not stick.
The second question; Has anyone installed brass bushes in this pump? How much did it last? They are originally of some Teflon black graphite, the problem is that you can not get them anywhere.

Hello, the heater had a break somewhere under the plug, so I scraped the top layer from the path and soldered directly to the pin, I obtained resistance at 19.4 ?, but the device still indicates a problem error E-09 , I checked the continuity of the connection between the controller and the heater plug is ok. Where to look further for the reason, or maybe the resistance is too low. Please help

The heater was repaired despite the soldering as above. So I removed it again, I repaired it in another way, namely, I took 1.5m2 wire and put it under the plug and soldered to the path and the pin leg. The dishwasher works I don't know for how long it will be enough but at least I managed to postpone the expenditure of almost PLN 400 for a new pump.

PS.
The fact that there are no new heaters available is a rudeness on the part of Bosch. Why change an efficient pump just because the heater has gone down. Unless it is calculated that both components wear out at once. Anyway, my opinion about Bosch reliability changed dramatically, the heater fell after 4 years of using the dishwasher on the 33 minutes program in cycles of 2x per week. I think it's a mockery.

welcome back
I wonder how much this soldering will last? I used to solder at a client's place but only because she was complaining that she didn't have the money for a new heat pump. I agreed to solder because the break was at the plug, where the tin caught. I asked her to speak when she stopped warming, so far quiet on her part, I think it works. A colleague said that he does it with a silver-based electroconductive adhesive, so I bought one and I will test it if the opportunity arises.
You can buy the heaters themselves on the well-known auction site they come in two or more dimensions, we are talking about the new type, i.e. with a small NTC plug and three large connectors.

However, I have been able to withstand 6 washes for now, so we'll see. Can you put a photo as I soldered it?

If you can, please.

The burning looked like this and I will immediately look for a repair photo.
IMG_201903...212727.jpg Download (995.58 kB)
I have corrected TONI_2003

So repaired and just don't laugh please. The path crumbled when I soldered it, but finally I managed to do it as in the picture ...
IMG_201903...220615.jpg Download (886.46 kB)
I have corrected TONI_2003

No matter what it looks like, it's important that it works. The wire is so thick that it should not get too hot and efficiently conduct electricity to further paths. Personally, I am surprised by the power of this 2 kW heater, it is like an electric kettle.

The heater has excellent heat reception because the sleeve itself is probably brass and water is still circulating. So in total she could have 5kW. I think it looks like corrosion. There is moisture and the heater is not properly protected against corrosion and it oxidizes and rots.

After all, it says how much wat it has ...

Arbiter wrote:

So repaired and just don't laugh please. The path crumbled when I soldered it, but finally I managed to do it as in the picture ...

I have corrected TONI_2003

I have the same problem and want to fix it too by soldering it. Can you tell me why the path crumbled and how did you manage to fix the soldure the path? What did you do differently? We can't get a wire to stay fixed to the path..

Hello. I have the same problem. It does not touch the pins. Soldered and is 19.4 Ohm. I understand that it's better to solder it on a piece of copper cable and I'm going to improve it. I wonder how long it lasted for colleagues who repaired it. Does it make sense to repair at all? I can't push the heater into this metal body with a gasket. I've already damaged 2 gaskets and a finger. The engine has a slight slack but nothing serious. How long did the soldering take?

Regards

I've already soldered a few heaters at my friends' and they still work. The condition is that it is hot right at the entrance of the path to the fin/pin. I scrape a piece of a good track and use a resistance soldering iron to attach a few hairs from the copper cable. You can't heat this scraped path for too long because it can melt.

star4you wrote:

to it with a resistance soldering iron I attach a few hairs from a copper cable.

I once did that too. There must be a wire, because tin alone will not solder it

Hi
I found out my Siemens sump gasket leaks when it gets hot.
So it leaked.... And filled inside with water and gave an error short-circuit of house.
Due to Bosch stupid.... Ultimately stupid placement of open electronic close close to bottom and not covered sealed enough.....I figured out heater element was damaged at the lowest point close to first contact of water.
The Styrofoam round lifter that should prevent or indicate leakage was stuck in a mix of leaked water and grease....
Dishwasher worked washing cold when disconnecting heater element.
I managed to replace pump and dishwasher worked for 3 weeks. I closely monitored for leakage each time.....it worked.... And worked.... And once when running it twice the same day it started to leak again.... Very difficult to spot. Guess what....new heater element got burned at exactly same spot. So now I got 2 non-working heater elements and a new sump gasket soon to be replaced....

Question
How can I bridge the small bored off area on the heater trace? I scraped off the top coating but as already mentioned... Solder will not stick. Is there nobody who has any suggestion on how this can be done? What material is the heater trace? Maybe different solder type?

Thanks