FAQ
TL;DR: Partial power at home often means one of the 3 phases is down—“This is enough information… whether there are or not 3 phases.” Add a 3‑phase indicator and call a qualified electrician. [Elektroda, emigrant, post #16917873]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps homeowners quickly decide if a missing phase or upstream fuse issue is to blame, and what to do next.
Quick Facts
- Typical cause: a damaged or open connection on one supply phase after a short circuit; symptoms vary by room and circuit. [Elektroda, osiniak75, post #16917818]
- Real-world resolution reported: utility restored power after addressing an upstream fuse near the transformer. [Elektroda, Janusz_85, post #16917970]
- Visibility helps: a 3-phase control lamp in the panel shows if all phases are present; a burned lamp can mislead. [Elektroda, emigrant, post #16917873]
- Upstream protections may use fuse links or a power limiter (e.g., in a switch disconnector) instead of typical breakers. [Elektroda, wodzu12240, post #16922506]
- Quick reset anecdote: cycling the main board at the fence restored power after a trip. [Elektroda, adrianmardaus, post #20580269]
My sockets work but lights and induction cooktop don’t—did I lose a phase?
Yes. Mixed symptoms across outlets, lighting, and an induction hob point to one supply phase being open. A short can damage a phase connection. Call a qualified electrician to test phase presence at the service head and panel. “It is very possible that the connection on one of the supply phases was damaged.” [Elektroda, osiniak75, post #16917818]
Should I call the utility or an electrician first?
Start with a licensed electrician who didn’t install your system. They can isolate whether the fault is inside your installation or upstream. Utilities usually don’t handle customer-side issues. If tests show a missing phase before the meter, your electrician can advise contacting the utility. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16917878]
What are classic signs of a missing phase in a new house?
Appliances on one circuit work while lights or induction don’t. Some rooms have live sockets but no lighting, or the reverse. This inconsistent pattern is typical when one phase is absent. Document which rooms fail and when the outage began to aid diagnostics. [Elektroda, Janusz_85, post #16917686]
Could an upstream fuse cause partial power loss?
Yes. A blown or disconnected upstream fuse can drop a phase. In the thread, power returned after utility action near the transformer. Keep in mind, details may vary, and verification by measurement is best. Record times and symptoms for the field crew. [Elektroda, Janusz_85, post #16917970]
What is a 3‑phase control lamp and why add one?
It’s a simple indicator showing presence of L1, L2, and L3 in your panel. If a lamp goes dark, you instantly see a phase loss. Note the edge case: the lamp itself can burn out, giving a false negative. Replace failed lamps during maintenance. [Elektroda, emigrant, post #16917873]
How do I quickly check if all three phases are present?
Install a 3‑phase indicator in the switchboard and observe all three lamps. If any lamp is out, call an electrician to verify with a meter and trace the fault location. This gives immediate, homeowner‑level visibility before deeper tests. [Elektroda, emigrant, post #16917873]
What’s a practical, safe ‘try-this-first’ reset?
Some report success by lowering and raising the main switch in the fence‑mounted board (not the indoor panel). Do this only once, then recheck circuits. If symptoms persist, stop and call an electrician to avoid equipment damage. [Elektroda, adrianmardaus, post #20580269]
Could my short circuit have caused the upstream device to trip?
It’s debated. Users questioned whether a customer fault would operate a transformer‑side fuse. Lack of selectivity can complicate fault clearing. Regardless, after any major trip, inspect sensitive loads for damage before reuse. [Elektroda, CYRUS2, post #16918098]
What protections might be ahead of my meter?
Depending on the operator, you may have a power limiter and fuse links in a switch disconnector instead of standard breakers. These can be 63–80 A devices and require utility access to service or replace. [Elektroda, wodzu12240, post #16922506]
What is a BM insert?
A BM insert is a type of high‑current fuse link used in utility or pre‑meter protection. If it operates, only the utility or authorized personnel should replace it. Your electrician can confirm if this device protects your supply. [Elektroda, wodzu12240, post #16922506]
Can a great installer still miss issues like this?
Yes. Even well‑built systems can see upstream faults or component failures. Forums encourage contacting an independent electrician to check the entire installation when symptoms are atypical or worrying. Prioritize safety and testing. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16917731]
How do I document symptoms for faster troubleshooting?
List which rooms lost lighting, which sockets remained live, and which appliances failed. Note the time, loads running, and any breaker or RCD status. This mirrors the original report and helps pinpoint the failed phase. [Elektroda, Janusz_85, post #16917686]
Is installing a 3‑phase indicator mandatory?
No. It isn’t typically required, but it’s inexpensive and valuable. “This is enough information for the householder whether there are or not 3 phases.” Consider it preventive visibility for future faults. [Elektroda, emigrant, post #16917873]
What’s the best immediate action when symptoms appear?
Turn off sensitive loads, avoid repeated resets, and call a qualified electrician. As one expert put it, seek an independent electrician and check the whole system because such symptoms are disturbing. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16917731]
3‑step: How do I safely attempt a one‑time reset at the boundary panel?
- Switch OFF the main in the fence/yard enclosure.
- Wait 30 seconds; inspect for odors or arcing sounds.
- Switch ON once; recheck circuits. Stop if issues persist and call an electrician. [Elektroda, adrianmardaus, post #20580269]
