Corsa C 1.2 2004 - Rear Right Heated Drum Wheel Issue After New Jaws & Brakes Replacement

Hello.

I have a problem with the Corsa C 1.2 2004 car, drums without ABS on the back.
After replacing the jaws with new ones, the drum of the rear right wheel began to heat up.

What I've checked so far:
* Jaws are new, drums without edges, all springs are new, everything is thoroughly cleaned, the self-adjuster works without any resistance.
* All 100% well assembled.
* Brakes bleed.
* The cylinder is pressed in easily, I can do it with my fingers.
* I rather ruled out the manual rope because when I lift the car you can hear a slight rubbing, the rope at the wheel is loose, even when I push it into the drum by force, the rubbing does not go away.

The problem is strange in that when I adjust the self-adjuster so that I can easily put the drum on, there is no wiping, the manual works, but after a few brakes, the self-adjuster widens the jaws and heating begins, what could be the reason?

I am sure that the self-adjuster expands because I took photos after assembly and after another disassembly when after a few days it started to warm up again and it was evident that the self-adjuster widened the jaws by a few thread turns.
Then, after driving 20-30 kilometers, the drum is so hot that it is hard to touch it.

I write here because I no longer have an idea what could be the reason, several times I undressed, folded, checked, one around 100% ok, and the other heats up. I also have new slides on the cable at the back of the beam.

Not my picture but I have it submitted in the same way:


I am asking for advice. I am slowly coming to the conclusion that the self-regulator works too lightly (too well cleaned) but is it possible ... The only thing I have translated is the old washers under the plates moving the self-regulator.

In my opinion, the linings on the jaws get through. After some time it should be ok I had the same in corsie b 1.0. And the big difference between the wheels in temp?

Unfortunately very large.
The left wheel barely warm, and the right wheel burns after a 20-30km stretch.

As I unscrew it, it can be seen that the regulator itself has expanded the linings, I twist it manually, brakes a little and the problem repeats.

there should be a cable tension adjuster underneath the car. check that they are equally stretched. You should drive and check from 80km / h to 40 km / h several times.
I have no more ideas

Corsa C has cable adjustment only on the jack, Corsa B had underneath.
I also have no ideas, that's why I wrote here.

The strange thing is that the self-adjuster widens the jaws until they are rubbed, there should probably be some slack.
I will try to ride a few days and see if they arrive but I doubt it.

is between wheels
and

There is no regulation, it is only a cable connector.
Yes it is ridiculously done that the cable from one wheel is moving forward and the other is attached.
In Corsa B it was already better solved.
The Corsa C only has a screw on the hand lever.

In corsie C you like to cut the hand cord into the guides on the swingarm, something like that
this could be one of the reasons.

https://www.google.pl/search?q=prowadnica+lin...52C_&usg=__KQik9Z1MSKPBtHM3mKgHGJwkm9M%3D&sa= X & ved = 0ahUKEwiY8t7m_LvYAhWJCJoKHY1KBA0Q9QEIODAB # imgrc _ =

I replaced these two guides because I was damaged. (They are located on the rear suspension bar, one per side.
A moment ago I looked at the line once more and I have a suspicion that it may be her fault because in the places of these guides it is slightly rubbed (rubbing against metal when there were old guides), I will replace it or disconnect it and I will eat. Let's see if this is it.

Insert a photo of your system and not someone else's because there is no option for the self-adjuster to expand the jaws after correct insertion - either the self-adjuster is made or (more suited) that you put on the drums and come in with too much looseness (though this should not cause heating problems) but with weak braking) and they should be tight - check the self-adjuster again (photos after removing it is welcome) and when putting on check if the drum reaches tight all over the jaws and not just on one side.

The self-adjuster as it is correctly fitted cannot suddenly twist because it is physically impossible that with tight insertion it will have enough slack to even pass by one leap. Something wrong with him - maybe buying a new one? Maybe compare both self-regulators or not.

Did it come off without a problem when downloading this drum?

The link is symmetrical because you mentioned something different than on this diagram?

enhanced wrote:

Insert a photo of your system and not someone else's because there is no option for the self-adjuster to expand the jaws after correct insertion - either the self-adjuster is made or (more suited) that you put on the drums and come in with too much looseness (though this should not cause heating problems) but with weak braking) and they should be tight - check the self-adjuster again (photos after removing it is welcome) and when putting on check if the drum reaches tight all over the jaws and not just on one side.

The self-adjuster as it is correctly fitted cannot suddenly twist because it is physically impossible that with tight insertion it will have enough slack to even pass by one leap. Something wrong with him - maybe buying a new one? Maybe compare both self-regulators or not.

It also puzzles me a lot but I think I know what it is.
Probably the line blurs after a few brakes in the slide by the beam and does not withdraw it completely from the drum, which is why it seemed loose because it was loose under the car and between the drum and the slide tense, I noticed now damage to the teflon on the line and a slight abrasion. in the place where it slides on the beam.
I will also exchange links because it is not a big cost.

enhanced wrote:

Did it come off without a problem when downloading this drum?

It goes down without problems, before the drums had a slight edge which I wiped perfectly.

I fold it in such a way that the drum enters tightly with a gentle wiping, but then after folding as lightly as I knock on the drum it no longer rubs, heating only appears after a few brakes.

enhanced wrote:

The link is symmetrical because you mentioned something different than on this diagram?

The cable is the same as in the diagram, but a colleague above looked badly saying that there is adjustment, it is only the connector that connects the drum cable with that from the brake lever.

Thank you for the advice, I will replace the cable and see if it helps, the cost is not big and now it clearly indicates it because when I unhooked the cables by the reels themselves, it did not heat up.

And what color you have brake fluid should be very bright. Maybe the fluid has overheated and the outdated fluid has gone down somewhere.

The cost of replacing the fluid is not great, I also provide the cheapest solution that can help in removing the fault.

I have a new liquid, but I poured DOT 3 because I couldn't get another one, it shouldn't affect?

In the near future I will replace the cable and see if the problem goes away.

I exchanged links, unfortunately the problem remained.
Tomorrow I will give pictures of the inside of the drum, I have no idea what it can be because I think everything is 100% well assembled.
I suspect only the cylinder and self-regulator.
The cylinder can be squeezed with fingers.
Unless the jaw compression spring is weaker than the old one ...

The fault occurred after replacing the jaws and the master cylinder.
I used to change my jaws in this car (90,000 km ago) and there was no problem.

Maybe the bearing heats the entire hub together with the drum?

andrzej lukaszewicz wrote:

Maybe the bearing heats the entire hub together with the drum?

100% no, when I pick up the car and turn the wheel, they rub their jaws, when I hit the drum with a hammer they stop a little. And the drum is hotter around and on the sides than in the center of the wheel.

Today I will dismantle it, take pictures of the assembly, and for tests I will replace what I can with the left wheel.
I will also check the cylinder again and check the jaw compression spring because maybe the new one is weaker than the old one.

Greetings.

Added after 14 [hours] 42 [minutes]:

Explained.
The reason for the heating drum was that the jaw puller spring (the one that squeezes them between the jaws at the height of the self-regulator) was in the right wheel longer by almost a centimeter than that in the left wheel.
Strangely, I did not notice it assembling everything the first time because the springs and jaws were new.
I replaced the spring with the old one (the same length as the one in the left wheel) and the problem has disappeared so far.

So the conclusion that before assembly you even have to check new parts is everything is 100% ok.

Greetings.