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Renault Master 2.3 DCi 2015 - The starter does not turn, the lights come on.

marcin.koch 65490 17
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Why does a Renault Master 2.3 dCi crank no starter even though the lights and other electrics work?

Check the battery fuses, especially the ones on the battery and on the left side of the steering wheel, and measure whether voltage reaches the starter when the key is turned to START; if the fuses are good, the ignition switch/cube is a likely suspect [#16967100] Also inspect the ground connection carefully, because a bad mass cable or loose negative battery clamp can make the starter behave as if the battery were dead [#18357447] Another reported cause was a rotten red cable from the battery to the box under the expansion tank / compensating tank, including the section in the tray or lower down [#19315648] If current reaches the starter but it still does not react, the starter’s electromagnet/solenoid may be at fault [#18357447]
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  • #1 16952615
    marcin.koch
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 56
    Hello,
    I was looking for an answer to my problem and I can't find it anywhere. This topic has already been raised but there is no solution anywhere. Maybe someone can already fix this problem. After turning the key there is no reaction from the starter. The lights are on, like everything is ok but I don't want to spin off. Maybe someone already has a solution to the problem ?? Thank you in advance for all reasonable answers.
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  • #2 16952859
    przemek25l
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1239
    Help: 124
    Rate: 371
    And what have you checked so far except clicking on the keyboard?
  • #3 16952871
    marcin.koch
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 56
    Thank you for the reasonable answer. greetings

    Added after 54 [seconds]:

    Thank you for the reasonable answer. greetings
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  • #4 16952934
    Megawe
    Level 34  
    Posts: 2657
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    Rate: 1422
    Is the glow plug indicator off?
  • #5 16952943
    marcin.koch
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 56
    Yes it goes out. Starter already checked, it's ok, brushes are ok
  • #6 16952989
    ALIBABA I
    Level 33  
    Posts: 2567
    Help: 217
    Rate: 527
    marcin.koch wrote:
    Hello,
    I was looking for an answer to my problem and I can't find it anywhere. This topic has already been raised but there is no solution anywhere. Maybe someone can already fix this problem. After turning the key there is no reaction from the starter. The lights are on, like everything is ok but I don't want to spin off. Maybe someone already has a solution to the problem ?? Thank you in advance for all reasonable answers.
    ,,,
    marcin.koch wrote:
    Yes it goes out. Starter already checked, it's ok, brushes are ok
    Well, and does something additionally light up flashing, because the description of the fault is not here what you checked. except for the starter.
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  • #7 16952991
    Megawe
    Level 34  
    Posts: 2657
    Help: 246
    Rate: 1422
    Does the central locking work?
  • #8 16952992
    marcin.koch
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 56
    Works central. All in all, it's windows, mirrors, radio etc. things in the cabin too.
  • #9 16952997
    Megawe
    Level 34  
    Posts: 2657
    Help: 246
    Rate: 1422
    If we give the current to control the starter, will the engine start?
    Good fuses?
  • #10 16953116
    przemek25l
    Level 29  
    Posts: 1239
    Help: 124
    Rate: 371
    Is weight
    Both pros on the starter checked?
    Driver Errors Checked?
    Cable continuity to the starter solenoid machine checked?
  • #11 16967100
    migmig85
    Level 26  
    Posts: 722
    Help: 85
    Rate: 332
    1. Check the fuses on the battery and the left side of the steering wheel.
    2. Check the voltage at the starter (key in start position) if all are not
    fuses ok this is suspected of falling on the ignition cube.
  • #12 16969996
    marcin.koch
    Level 8  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 56
    Thank you for all the answers, we check everything you prompted me! If everything starts working, I will write what it was.
  • #13 17789425
    markal 83
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 5
    Hello, for me in movano 2.3 165km is identical the same for 10 attempts will fire once. someone already has this problem ???
  • #14 18280637
    migmig85
    Level 26  
    Posts: 722
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    markal 83 wrote:
    Hello, for me in movano 2.3 165km is identical the same for 10 attempts will fire once. someone already has this problem ???

    What are your errors in the engine controller?
  • #15 18280750
    TooSlow95
    Level 11  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 1
    Rate: 42
    If you turn the ignition key, the lights on the board go out?
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  • #16 18357299
    tewet
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 2
    TooSlow95 wrote:
    If you turn the ignition key, the lights on the board go out?


    I have a problem, everything in the car works but does not turn, when turning the starter does not react and everything dims.

    The battery is removed, a new one is connected, and an additional buster on the engine, together about 2000 amps starting current, and behaves as if the battery was dead.
  • #17 18357447
    TooSlow95
    Level 11  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 1
    Rate: 42
    You have problems either:

    a) with mass. The ground cable is probably tarnished. Check the connection of the mass (cable "-" from the battery) to the car body and make sure that the negative clamp on the battery is well (tightly) tightened.

    b) with starter. The lack of passage through the electromagnet causes the current to go to the starter, but it does not leave it.
  • #18 19315648
    boy0
    Level 11  
    Posts: 7
    Rate: 39
    Gentlemen, if someone was looking for just came to this. The message about the oil pressure fault and the starter is silent, the reason was how many people wrote a rotten cable in the tray or even a little lower, red from the battery to the box under the compensating tank. I know that a lot of people wrote this, but the car was in a shitty place and I had no trouble digging it up, so I wondered that it might be something else
    And I dug everything up and it was this one censorship my colleagues wrote about the cable Renault Master 2.3 DCi 2015 - The starter does not turn, the lights come on. Renault Master 2.3 DCi 2015 - The starter does not turn, the lights come on. Renault Master 2.3 DCi 2015 - The starter does not turn, the lights come on.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a 2015 Renault Master 2.3 DCi experiencing a failure to start, despite the dashboard lights illuminating. Users suggest various troubleshooting steps, including checking the glow plug indicator, fuses, battery connections, and the starter's electrical continuity. Some responses highlight the importance of inspecting the ground cable for corrosion and ensuring tight connections. A user mentions a similar issue with a Movano 2.3, indicating a broader problem with this model. The conversation emphasizes the need for thorough checks of electrical components and connections to diagnose the starting issue effectively.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Lights on but no crank in a Renault Master 2.3 dCi often traces to battery/ground loss or a corroded main feed; at 32°F, “a car’s battery loses about 35 percent of its strength.” [AAA Northway]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps van owners and technicians quickly pinpoint the no-crank root cause and avoid unnecessary starter replacements.

Quick Facts

How do I diagnose “lights on, no crank” on a Renault Master 2.3 dCi?

Confirm the glow-plug lamp goes out. Then check battery state and grounds, relevant fuses, and whether 12 V reaches the starter solenoid in START. If power and grounds are good, inspect the ignition switch connector and the main red feed cable to the under-tank box. “Check the fuses… and the voltage at the starter (key in start position).” [Elektroda, migmig85, post #16967100]

Which fuses should I check first and where are they?

Check the fuses on the battery and the panel to the left of the steering wheel. Pull, inspect, and reseat them. Corrosion or a blown link here can block the start signal or feed. Replace any suspect fuse with the correct rating after testing. [Elektroda, migmig85, post #16967100]

Why do all lights dim when I turn the key but the engine doesn’t crank?

That behavior indicates a bad ground path or high resistance in the starter circuit. Clean and tighten the negative battery clamp and the body/engine ground points. Verify the ground strap continuity and voltage drop under load. “You have problems either with mass… Check the connection of the mass.” [Elektroda, TooSlow95, post #18357447]

What’s the story with the ‘oil pressure fault’ and no crank?

Owners reported an oil-pressure warning with a silent starter caused by a rotten red main cable from the battery to the box under the expansion tank. Replacing or repairing that cable restored starting. Inspect the loom in the tray and below for green corrosion. [Elektroda, boy0, post #19315648]

Could the ignition switch (ignition “cube”) be the culprit?

Yes. If fuses and starter test fine but no solenoid signal appears in START, suspect the ignition switch block. Wiggle-test harness, then measure output at START. If intermittent, replace the switch. A member flagged the ignition cube after fuse checks. [Elektroda, migmig85, post #16967100]

How do I test if the starter itself is okay?

Bench-test or apply 12 V to the solenoid control to see if it engages and spins. Also measure voltage at the solenoid while someone holds the key in START. If power is present but no action, the starter or solenoid has failed. [Elektroda, Megawe, post #16952997]

What quick 3-step plan should I follow roadside?

  1. Clean/tighten battery clamps and the main engine/body grounds.
  2. Check the battery-top fuse links and the left knee-panel fuses.
  3. Measure for 12 V at the starter solenoid while turning to START; if absent, inspect ignition switch and main red feed. [Elektroda, migmig85, post #16967100]

Everything in the cabin works (windows, radio). Does that rule out the battery?

No. Accessories draw far less current than cranking. Cold can cut available battery power sharply; at 32°F, capacity drops about 35%. A weak battery may light the dash yet fail to crank. Load-test the battery before chasing other faults. [AAA Northway]

My van starts only 1 out of 10 attempts. What should I check?

Intermittent no-crank points to an ignition switch output, starter relay contact, clutch/neutral safety input, or corroded control wire. Scan the ECU for start-request faults and prove continuity to the solenoid. Address any harness corrosion noted near the tray. [Elektroda, migmig85, post #18280637]

Central locking works—does that mean the immobilizer isn’t the issue?

Working locks show the BCM has power, but immobilizer logic can still inhibit cranking or fueling. However, this thread’s no-crank cases traced to power/ground, fuses, ignition switch, or main cable faults rather than the immobilizer. Diagnose those first. [Elektroda, marcin.koch, post #16952992]

What if dashboard lights go out when I turn the key to START?

That drop suggests a heavy voltage sag due to poor ground, weak battery, or a shorted starter. Load-test the battery, clean grounds, and check the starter current path before replacing parts. “You have problems either with mass… or with starter.” [Elektroda, TooSlow95, post #18357447]

What is CAN bus and is it related to this no-crank?

CAN bus is an automotive network linking ECUs for data exchange. It doesn’t carry the starter’s high current, but modules on CAN can authorize starting. Electrical feed or ground faults can still prevent cranking even if CAN is fine. [CAN bus]

How long do batteries typically last, and when should I suspect mine?

Passenger-vehicle batteries typically last 3–5 years. If yours is within that window and you have no-crank symptoms, load-test it before deeper diagnostics. Replace if it fails under load, especially in cold weather. “Batteries generally last 3–5 years.” [AAA Club Alliance]

Which wire should I inspect for corrosion on this platform?

Inspect the red main feed from the battery to the under-expansion-tank fuse/relay box. Members found advanced corrosion there causing oil-pressure warnings and a dead starter. Repairing that section restored normal starting. [Elektroda, boy0, post #19315648]

What measurements confirm a bad ground versus a bad starter?

Perform a voltage-drop test while holding START. More than ~0.3 V drop on ground side or ~0.5 V on the positive side indicates wiring/connection issues. If drops are normal but the starter won’t engage, suspect the starter. “Check the connection of the mass.” [Elektroda, TooSlow95, post #18357447]

Does the glow-plug indicator status tell me anything?

Yes. If it illuminates and then goes out normally, the ECU and key-on feeds are alive. A remaining no-crank shifts focus to the starter control path, ignition switch output, grounds, and main feed integrity. [Elektroda, marcin.koch, post #16952943]
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