[Solved] Induction Hob Wiring: 5x2.5 or 4x2.5 Wire Type, Heat Resistance for Oven Placement - Advice

Hello, as in the subject, I do not mean cross-section because I know that I have to give 5x2.5 and that's really enough 4x2.5 because my motherboard uses only 2 phases, but I have a problem because I will have an oven under the plate and I wonder if the cord OW or maybe some fireproof one because between the plate and the oven (how it will be running) it will be quite high temperature, please advise, thank you in advance, greetings Krzysiek

Why do you need a fireproof cable furniture you have non-flammable
At what high temperature you talk over the oven I have a furniture board above the oven and, despite several years of operation, it has not burned. The oven throws warm air into the front.

Hello, I mean that I do not know what will be the remperatura there, i.e. the guest makes me furniture and we assemble the oven to the bottom and induction hob and I want to connect the plate only I do not know what the temperature will be between the plate and the oven. ....? such free space as there will be in this space, etc., and therefore I do not know if it is OMY, OWY or OW wire, does it matter? please help

I would suggest an electrician, because this is not just about the cable, but also about the protection in the switchgear with over-current circuit breakers.

We do not know the power, we do not know the network layout, it's hard to do something. Because we will find that non-flammable, and they will still ignite as it will be badly made.

greetings

New apartment, wires in the wall 5x2,5, no other changes I will not do, but thanks.

I usually use H07RN-F. It is not cheap (4 * 2.5mm? approx. 5.50 PLN / m, 5 * 2.5mm? approx. 6.50 PLN / m). Prices in supermarkets can be twice as large. But once a decent cable is used, well connected (cable terminals to the ends of individual wires, good quality terminal strip).
A better cable is not needed. This one is durable, flexible (it fits nicely behind the furniture, in the event of removing the equipment there are no problems that YDY holds it rigidly).

In this case, the usual 5x2.5mm is properly connected to the board. You do not need a non-flammable, because the usual one has the right operating temperature (70 ° C), and there should be no more around the oven.

It does not make sense to use 4x2,5mm, because if you have to replace the plate, you will have to make a new cable.

Plus the board should probably be mounted immediately to the cable from the wall, without sockets and connectors, but I can be wrong.

First of all, the standard clearly states that every such device must be connected with a flexible cable, the old OWY etc. after the new H07RN-F. Sometimes 5x ... will be cheaper than 4x ... because it is a bit less popular, I recommend definitely wholesalers than castoramy etc.

Today, most producers of plates and ovens equip them with a power cord.
If the motherboard is / can be powered with one phase and the producer on the plug's cable does not mount it under any circumstances, it should not be mounted.

The same power supply to the board should be made with a 5x4mm2 cable.
However, if the board requires two phases, it does not mean that the remaining free phase can be used to supply the oven. These are two separate receivers that need to be powered by two separate circuits.

However, it may turn out that the manufacturer has produced a "combine" in which the oven joins the stove and the stove is fed with three phases and that it requires only two phases for proper operation.
In such and only such a case, the free phase can be used to supply the oven.

And if the device is connected to the network without a socket connection, the use of an RCD switch is not required.
Of course, if the TN system.
If the TT is the RCD, it should be used as much as possible.

kkas12 wrote:

The same power supply to the board should be made with a 5x4mm2 cable.
However, if the board requires two phases, it does not mean that the remaining free phase can be used to supply the oven. These are two separate receivers that need to be powered by two separate circuits.

There is no need to overdo it with 5 * 4mm?. As we connect on 3 phases, the max current on any phase will not be bigger than 16A, it will calmly 5 * 2.5mm? will be enough. 4mm? we use, for example, a board with a maximum power of 7600W, we use one phase.
These devices are designed so as not to exceed 16A on one phase. As we have an oven and plate set, two phases are for the plate and one phase for the oven. Sometimes the oven has a total power of heaters above 3800W, but then the electronics cyclically switches the heaters to evenly heat, but not to exceed the current of 16A.

Yes, I am not talking about what is today, but what is tomorrow.
And then it may turn out that today's oversizing of the cross-section tomorrow will result in the lack of another thread with the appeal: Save, but no forging goes into play.

Gentlemen, maybe a little exaggerating the author does not put a wire from the switchgear to the junction box and he just wants to choose TYPE wires between this can and the board.

icosie wrote:

We do not know the power, we do not know the network layout, it's hard to do something. Because we will find that non-flammable, and they will still ignite as it will be badly made.

And why do you need this data for choosing the type of wire

Mrozan wrote:

I just do not know what the temperature will be between the plate and the oven .....?

No worries it will not be dangerously high. You can choose the cable proposed in post # 6.

kkas12 wrote:

Yes, I am not talking about what is today, but what is tomorrow.
And then it may turn out that today's oversizing of the cross-section tomorrow will result in the lack of another thread with the appeal: Save, but no forging goes into play.

Yes. You're right. I thought you were writing about a piece of cable from the can to the disc / oven. From the switchgear to the box should go 5 * 4mm?. But then 5 * 2.5mm? is enough for an oven / ceramic / induction hob.

Hi, I bought Amica
Connection to 400 V 2N power supply, 230 V connection, * 230 V connection required 32 A protection
Connection power [W]: 7400
Control: Sensor
Used cooking zones:
18.0 cm induction booster box (1.2 / 1.4 kW)
22.0 cm induction booster box (2.0 / 2.5 kW)
18.0 cm induction booster box (1.2 / 1.4 kW)
22.0 cm induction booster box (2.0 / 2.5 kW)

there is no conversation about the oven because it is on 230V and has a separate socket,
and what about the 5x4mm cable is probably a slight exaggeration as in the wall I have 5x2,5 what's the sense ???
Gentlemen, I mean only that I have no idea what the temperature will be between the oven and the plate and I'm afraid that if the wife starts the oven at 200C for example 2h is the temperature between these devices will not be too high, I am not a furniture designer, etc., best regards
PS instead of ankle I wanted to use WAGO connectors ???

Everything will be ok with the temperature.

Wago is also ok

Connect with a 2.5mm2 flexible cable.

Mrozan wrote:

and what about the 5x4mm cable is probably a slight exaggeration as in the wall I have 5x2,5 what's the sense ???

After all, it is clear from my statements that when I wrote about the 4mm2 cross section, I meant what was in the wall.
And you can use 4x2,5mm2 to connect the oven.
Wago yes, but to the links.
Only why are there cans mounted both n / t and ip / t, which are used to connect such receivers as the cooker. They have the advantage that (at least in theory) they make it impossible to pull out the wire when ejecting the device from the body.
It should be remembered that the protective vein was longer than the others, both in the can and in the oven, because if for some reasons the cables were torn out, it is to lose the continuity as the last one.

kkas12
I have p / t but there is a 5x2.5 wire terminated with the cheapest cube and nothing is blinded, so you can tear it out very easily, and as for the weight you can use it like I have a wire on the wall and a cable ...?

I saw new installations made by electricians from the cooperative, where it was 4 * 1.5mm?. I do not know who picked it up ...

Buy a solid 4mm? strip (hard, strong material, the right amount of metal about 5-7 PLN), 2.5mm? insulated terminals (or not) on individual wires (about 8-10gr / pc) so that the cables are properly clamped in the strip. WAGO I would give up. I only use them in lighting circuits. Here you have high currents and the proper contact of the connection must be.

It has long used cans, typically for connecting discs:
link

It comes in a normal installation box, has clamps, a holder for fixing the receiver's power cord and a hole from the bottom.

Hello, thank you very much for all the help but after counting it would make me around 40-50 zlotys and the electrician with papers connected me for 90 zlotys with a cable and concealment guarantee, so I recommend looking for a cheap electrician, but thank you again for your help.

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