[Solved] Best Torque Wrench/Adapter for Spark Plugs: YATO Key, Honiton Adapter, or Vorel Key? (90 chars)

Hello

I'm trying to exchange spark plugs in my car.
Therefore, as well as for other future repairs, I want to buy a torque wrench or adapter.
Question what?

I found such offers:
yato-key-dynamometer 19-110Nm
or
honiton-dynamometer adapter 20-200Nm

Here I found the specification of the tightening torques of spark plugs:
spark plugs - tightening torques

The question is is it better to choose a key or adapter?
The key seems more handy, while the adapter is more universal and accurate. For home applications, the calibration problem is also lost in the case of the adapter.

Alternatively, I could consider the clue key
Vorel-torque-wrench
The only question is whether the accuracy of this invention is sufficient.

A good torque wrench costs several thousand zlotys. so the above mentioned ones are rather toys for an amateur.
Their accuracy (lack of it) is actually only suitable for such things as wheels or candles, though those who do not use them too much.

DriverMSG wrote:

A good torque wrench costs several thousand zlotys. so the above mentioned ones are rather toys for an amateur.
Their accuracy (lack of it) is actually only suitable for such things as wheels or candles, though those who do not use them too much.

It is obvious that there are better and more expensive keys.
Amateur use precludes spending more money on this tool.

It's about getting a decent quality at an affordable price - here about PLN 200.
I think that in this price range should go to choose a tool suitable for such works.

I also had a similar problem, especially at small tightening times. I did the exact key basically. I bought an electronic fishing scales and made an appropriate length of arm and indication of the weight in kg I had in Nm. Cheap and accurate.

For spark plugs this is not the range. Look for a key in the range of 5-50 Nm.

dizba wrote:

For spark plugs this is not the range. Look for a key in the range of 5-50 Nm.

Hello,

Why not this range?
In the link that I have been giving I write that the tightening torque of the candle I have 14mm for the aluminum head is 25 to 30Nm.

So the key, for example, the 19-110Nm key covers it.
I also read that Yato has a factory calibration certificate.
YT-0750

I am interested in this patent with fishing weight. Especially since I have such and often comes in handy.

For simplicity, 10N / kg can be taken. So, by applying a force of 1kg on 1m, we have 10Nm. Shortening the arm to 10cm we have at 1kg - 1Nm.

LightOfWinter wrote:

So the key, for example, the 19-110Nm key covers it.
I also read that Yato has a factory calibration certificate.

Pay attention only to the fact that the highest accuracy of such a key is in the middle measurement range, i.e. for this key will be about 45 Nm. The closer to the end, on the one or the other side, the accuracy decreases. Therefore, it should be selected so that the scope of work is more or less in the middle of the range. Thus, in fact, a 50 Nm key may be more sensible. Nevertheless, tightening the bolts in the car is not a pharmacy and the accuracy of 20-30% does not change anything, because this is also the measurement error resulting from the state of the threaded joints themselves. Please note that the moment is given for clean new and uncoated threads. As you tighten the screw with a torque of, for example, 30 Nm and the screw will be clean you will get a different voltage than if the screw is dirty or it will have a thread covered with grease.
Spark plugs I personally tighten it with my hand based on the rotation angle with the key given by the manufacturer. In my opinion it is more accurate to obtain the necessary screw tension than by measuring the torque. Well, but this is my opinion and everyone can have different.
Greetings!

Welcome.

Check the documentation of the tightness of the car manufacturer.
I have a Mitsubishi Colt and the candles are tightened with a force of 25 +/- 5 Nm.

greetings

grzeskk wrote:

For simplicity, 10N / kg can be taken. So, by applying a force of 1kg on 1m, we have 10Nm. Shortening the arm to 10cm we have at 1kg - 1Nm.

Well, in fact, the torque wrench works, with only the difference that it has an additional latch that will jump as you want to pull too much. With the method with the weight, you have to do the pawl yourself and see if you've already quite strained the key arm. But actually, it is the simplest and most effective method to use at small moments.

Once I had my hand and an ordinary wrench with about 40 cm arm in the car. A buddy and a reptile came, what old man you dismiss for maniana. After all, it tightens with a torque wrench! He flew the key to the locker, but I already had all the wheels tightened properly. He came and asks me with what moment I pulled it up. I tell him he'll be around 100 Nm. He says give, I'll check. Well, it turned out that everything was 100-110 Nm tight. Thus, it can be done without a key exactly.

What it comes from? This is due to the fact that the keys have their factory length depending on the size. So if an ordinary peasant grabs a key, let's give it to 19, and he will draw a hand solidly, the arm of this key will give him the strength of tightening that is needed for M12 screws. Therefore, using normal keys without extensions, adapters and other inventions, most bolts can be tightened manually with the correct torque. Of course, you need to practice a bit.
The key is worth having, if only to check whether the manual torque meter is working properly or when tightening critical screws, eg in the engine head.

^ToM^ wrote:

LightOfWinter wrote:

So the key, for example, the 19-110Nm key covers it.
I also read that Yato has a factory calibration certificate.

Pay attention only to the fact that the highest accuracy of such a key is in the middle measurement range, i.e. for this key will be about 45 Nm. The closer to the end, on the one or the other side, the accuracy decreases. Therefore, it should be selected so that the scope of work is more or less in the middle of the range. Thus, in fact, a 50 Nm key may be more sensible. Nevertheless, tightening the bolts in the car is not a pharmacy and the accuracy of 20-30% does not change anything, because this is also the measurement error resulting from the state of the threaded joints themselves. Please note that the moment is given for clean new and uncoated threads. As you tighten the screw with a torque of, for example, 30 Nm and the screw will be clean you will get a different voltage than if the screw is dirty or it will have a thread covered with grease.
Spark plugs I personally tighten it with my hand based on the rotation angle with the key given by the manufacturer. In my opinion it is more accurate to obtain the necessary screw tension than by measuring the torque. Well, but this is my opinion and everyone can have different.
Greetings!

Hello

Thank you for your response.
I suspected that the accuracy would be the worst on the edge of the range.
But I could not confirm it anywhere in the literature.
In the Haynes book for my engine, it is recommended to tighten the spunbonds 23Nm, but there is no tolerance.
The tightening method based on the key rotation angle seems to me worth attention.
I will look for materials where it is described.

LightOfWinter wrote:

I suspected that the accuracy would be the worst on the edge of the range.
But I could not confirm it anywhere in the literature.
In the Haynes book for my engine, it is recommended to tighten the spunbonds 23Nm, but there is no tolerance.
The tightening method based on the key rotation angle seems to me worth attention.
I will look for materials where it is described.

You'll find in the candle manufacturers' materials or here:
link

LightOfWinter wrote:

The tightening method based on the key rotation angle seems to me worth attention.

And, in my opinion, it is only worth paying attention when assembling new candles where they have undeformed washers and only then rotates by the appropriate angle of the pads are flattened and it is possible to achieve the moment as it should be. When re-unscrewing and screwing the candle is no longer possible. I have a torque wrench 0-70Nm for candles, but not from the auction only more accurate from the ocean where the torque you've tightened is marked with a pointer - a small arrow that moves along with the wrench

sandamiano wrote:

LightOfWinter wrote:

The tightening method based on the key rotation angle seems to me worth attention.

And, in my opinion, it is only worth paying attention when assembling new candles where they have undeformed washers and only then rotates by the appropriate angle of the pads are flattened and it is possible to achieve the moment as it should be. When re-unscrewing and screwing the candle is no longer possible.

Well, in case I had to remove the lamp once and mount it, I did it so that first I turned my hand to the resistance (through the extension cap) and then I put the knob in place and tightened with two fingers and then tightened about 1/4 turn and ready. The tightness is then maintained. When the spark plug is first turned on by the angle specified by the manufacturer, the washer is not crushed to the max, which means that the re-assembly and assembly with tightness is possible.

^ToM^ wrote:

You'll find in the candle manufacturers' materials or here:
link

Hello,

Thank you for the materials.
I still had a question. There are two keys.
Yato 19-110Nm
and
Vorel 13.6-108.5 Nm
In the latter, the range begins with smaller values. But there is no factory calibration certificate. And now the question is whether this key - Vorel is checked in terms of measurement tolerance. Or is the production process set once per tolerance and the manufacturer does not check the accuracy of its measurements afterwards?
Do I think that I can count on better accuracy for Yato who has a calibration certificate? Is it not that important?

Hello

As for the Vorel 13,6-108.5 Nm key, I found in the manual "The key is calibrated at the factory with an accuracy of 4%."

Vorel 13.6-108.5 Nm
What dispels my doubts.

Hello

Finally, I bought the JONNESWAY 3/8 374MM 10-60NM T27060N key
I hope I will be happy with it.