FAQ
TL;DR: For a 36 V Raleigh Impulse IR HS pack, the charger should read about 43.8 V; if the LED flashes red then quickly turns green, verify plug pinout and polarity first—“Measure everything and write conclusions.” [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16976027]
Why it matters:** This FAQ helps Raleigh Impulse IR HS owners fix “new charger, no charge” issues fast and safely.
Quick Facts
- Battery reported in thread: 36 V, 540 Wh Raleigh Impulse IR HS pack. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16975780]
- Typical open‑circuit charger reading discussed: ~44 V for a 36 V pack. [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16975957]
- Measured new‑charger output shared by OP: 42 V at the plug. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16977035]
- Symptom pattern: red LED flashes, turns green in ~1 minute; no charge after 5 hours. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16975780]
- Resolution reported: service fitted an adapter; charging restored. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #17702424]
Why does my new charger flash red then turn green but not charge?
That pattern matched a mis‑match at the connector side, not a flat battery. The OP saw red→green in about a minute, left it five hours, and the state of charge stayed the same. Treat fast red→green as “no hand‑shake” between charger and battery, then verify plug pinout and polarity. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16975780]
What voltage should a 36 V e‑bike charger show with no load?
Expect around 44 V open‑circuit on a 36 V lithium pack charger. One helper stated you should see about 44 V and warned that below 36 V it won’t charge. Quote: “If it’s below 36, you surely won’t be able to charge.” [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16975957]
Is a 42 V reading on the charger normal for this case?
The OP measured 42 V at the charger plug. Charging still did not start. This shows that a plausible voltage alone does not confirm compatibility. You must also confirm polarity and which pins carry voltage at the bike’s socket. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16977035]
How do I test which pins actually carry voltage?
Measure between numbered pin pairs on both charger plug and battery socket. A contributor asked to identify which plug pins have voltage and to map the battery socket holes the same way, since they are numbered. This isolates wiring and polarity issues. [Elektroda, DIORADIO, post #16977119]
What does “1–3 and 3–4” mean in the pin notes?
That was the user reporting which pin pairs showed voltage continuity on the power supply plug. It indicates where voltage was present, not necessarily the correct charging pair for the battery’s socket. Always confirm against the battery receptacle mapping. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16978147]
How do I methodically measure all pin combinations?
Follow a full matrix: measure 1–2, 1–3, 1–4, 2–3, 2–4, and 3–4 on both charger and battery. A helper explicitly requested each‑with‑each measurements to pinpoint the correct pair and polarity. This prevents guesswork during troubleshooting. [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16979042]
Could wrong polarity stop charging even if the plug fits?
Yes. The thread warns to verify polarity, because a correct‑looking plug can still be wired differently. If polarity is wrong, charging does not begin, and the LED can misleadingly turn green quickly. “PS you didn’t get the polarity wrong?” [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16975957]
Does a 30% battery level block the charge from starting?
No. The OP reported about 30% remaining, not 0%, yet charging never began. That rules out deep‑discharge lockout in this case and points back to connector wiring or compatibility checks. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16975780]
What ultimately fixed the Raleigh Impulse IR HS charging issue here?
The user sent the battery to a battery service. After they fitted an adapter (described as a “foot adapter”), charging worked normally. This indicates a connector or interface mismatch was the root cause, not cell state. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #17702424]
How should I choose a replacement charger for this bike?
Match the original model’s output voltage and current, the exact DC plug, and pinout. One helper asked what guided the purchase and urged comparing against the original and measuring all pin pairs. When unsure, confirm with the seller for this bike model. [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16979042]
Can a dropped charger be salvaged to read its specs and wiring?
Possibly. A contributor suggested that a fall often breaks the housing, which might be repairable. You could still inspect labels or the board to record voltage, current, and pin wiring before buying a replacement. [Elektroda, Freddy, post #16977155]
What quick checks should I do before sending the battery to service?
Three-step how‑to: 1. Measure open‑circuit charger voltage (~44 V target). 2. Verify polarity and which pins are live at the plug. 3. Map the battery socket pins and confirm the matching pair. “Measure everything and write conclusions.” [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16976027]
Is a red LED turning green in about a minute normal behavior?
In this case, no. The OP’s charger went green in about a minute but delivered no charge after five hours. Treat rapid green as a fault or incompatibility indicator, then check pinout and polarity as first steps. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #16975780]
What connector-related edge case should I know about?
A physically compatible plug can require an adapter to match the battery’s specific pin assignments. The reported fix was adding an adapter, which restored normal charging with the new unit. [Elektroda, zubo_dawid, post #17702424]
What did an expert recommend as the guiding principle here?
“Determine the output voltage… we will not move on without taking measurements.” The helper emphasized measurement first to avoid replacing parts blindly and to confirm compatibility. [Elektroda, michalek1988, post #16976027]
