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Splitting Knotty Wood Blocks & Roots: Hydraulic Splitter vs. Chainsaw vs. Drill Splitter & More

pawellukaszelektroda 9849 16
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  • #1 16992756
    pawellukaszelektroda
    Pupil  
    Hello,
    I analyze various methods of splitting / chopping wood, especially blocks and roots.
    I would like to point out that splitting with a wedge and a hammer is not an option.
    From what I can see it comes into play:
    - hydraulic splitter,
    - chainsaw - preferably stationary (table),
    - drill splitter - checked ... for knotty blocks or roots ... poorly ...


    An interesting solution for a mechanical machine based on a cut rim, but not too much to the roots, but to thicker branches:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5zURm2iXCo

    For branches (even 10 cm), I can see that a roller chipper (called as a roll, link below) is great:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYtFzQvGNc4

    I have reviewed the hydraulic log splitters on the river ... but there are opinions that even an over 10 ton cylinder may not be able to cope ...

    What are your ideas?
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  • #2 16992821
    Lisek64
    Level 32  
    Only a wedge and brute force or drilling, i.e. a conical auger with a suitably strong motor, a hardened auger and a solid block mounting, can do the best with sękaczami and roots. The uniform pressure of a 10 ton hydraulic press is suitable for "normal" pads. To the broken buttocks, probably 10x bigger. Chainsaw? Some solution as long as you have lots of replacement chains. With such hard wood it becomes blunt as on concrete and the longitudinal cut is a torment for the machine and the operator. Unless you cut into "slices" and finish the job with an ax :-)
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  • #3 16992862
    pawellukaszelektroda
    Pupil  
    Well, the auger would be driven from the PTO. The biggest one I found now is 107mm in diameter.
    But there is a case that sometimes it will go to the end and the wood will squeeze very hard
    cone ... and you also have to combine.
    Below is a hydraulic splitter in action with knots:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_-4Pk61Ha0
  • #4 16992880
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    Use a geared motor. 15 rpm and 1kNm.
  • #5 16992912
    pawellukaszelektroda
    Pupil  
    Okay, but it's not a lack of power but the drill bit.
    I think you need to reverse the rotation with an additional gear, because the PTO does not work "backwards".
    Drills can do:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEgjbkW2J6M

    But I have not found this shape in Pl .. yet.
  • #7 16993052
    mychaj
    Level 35  
    I once brought beech pieces of such "buttocks" from a forester, almost 2m / six, I did, as I remember well, 6 or 8 chains, and I chopped it with wedges and a hammer 15 kg,
    When it is tightly "twisted" at the root, it is only a wide wedge on the actuator, but the power must be specific, the auger dies, goes in and gets stuck.
    Er ... these movies are a shade not a tree - a decent beech stump would extinguish them like a beer can.
  • #8 16993093
    pawellukaszelektroda
    Pupil  
    Well ok, and the auger on the WOM and a few dozen KM will not handle it?
  • #9 16993135
    mychaj
    Level 35  
    It depends on the log you fasten :-) I had such that and 4 wedges barely made it ... :-)
    I will add: if fresh beech is going somehow, but if the hell is dry ...
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  • #10 17007251
    wnoto
    Level 34  
    It all depends on how much you do (roots and really gnarled blocks).
    How little would I leave for the fire (that's what I do) and I don't get tired - it's a waste of time and equipment for such fun.
    The wedges I bought back then were worth more than the wood I split them.
    What I do not like fiscars (and I have some steam in my hands) goes to the fire (I always miss such wood)
  • #12 17008973
    mychaj
    Level 35  
    There is no more than 3kW of this engine, see what this guy has wood - dry, no overgrowth, soft, with a small hatchet I could cut it in a few minutes.
    When I have such a beech without knots, chopping is pure pleasure, the machine is unnecessary because it falls apart by itself.
    But all you need is a few knots or twisted at the root and it gets tough, the wedges and the hammer are in motion.
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  • #13 17009042
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    A hydraulic splitter is the only solution. Just the actuator issue. Achieving a pressure of 20-30 tons is not a problem. And with such force, he will squeeze the water out of dry wood.
  • #15 17010177
    mychaj
    Level 35  
    LOOK ... it has power - from my backyard: to overturn the brewing kettle of 750L (its weight was about 900 kg) on the eccentricity the pump had 3kW and gave a pressure of 80bar for two actuators with a diameter of about 80mm and a stroke of 750mm.
  • #16 17011485
    wnoto
    Level 34  
    pawellukaszelektroda wrote:
    They will certainly burn longer, which is worth using.


    You mean you'll get more energy?
    Where does this knowledge come from? And why are they burning longer?
  • #17 17011683
    pawellukaszelektroda
    Pupil  
    The roots are harder, denser, denser ... more mass in the same
    volume. They "keep" heat longer - that's what I meant.
    Well, maybe it's a generalization.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around various methods for splitting knotty wood blocks and roots, focusing on hydraulic splitters, chainsaws, and drill splitters. Users express skepticism about the effectiveness of hydraulic splitters, even those with over 10 tons of force, particularly on hard woods like beech. The challenges of using chainsaws on tough wood are highlighted, as they tend to dull quickly. Alternatives such as conical augers and geared motors are suggested, with emphasis on the need for sufficient power and the right equipment to handle gnarled roots. The conversation also touches on the efficiency of roller chippers for smaller branches and the importance of using the right tools for specific wood types. Videos demonstrating various machines and techniques are shared to illustrate points made in the discussion.
Summary generated by the language model.
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