Best Chainsaw Chain Sharpener: Comparing Manual and Electric Options (Stiga SP 410, Oregon)

Hello,
It's time to cut down and I would like to buy a tool for sharpening the chain saw chains - a completely amateur use for my own use, which is several times a year. Pilarka Stiga SP 410 and some no name from tesco.
Goal - sharpening the chain along with the correction of limiters.

Optional:
1) Manual with automation https://www.oregon.pl/narzedzia-do-ostrzenia-...-reczna-Oregon-do-lancucha-5400182870838.html

2) Manual without automation http://allegro.pl/zestaw-do-ostrzenia-lancucha-ostrzalka-oregon-4-0-i6617352547.html

3) Electric cheap http://allegro.pl/ostrzalka-do-lancuchow-elek-750w-2-tarcze-mar-pol-i6557422191.html

4) electric de luxe version http://allegro.pl/ostrzalka-do-lancuchow-vander-vcs702-gwar-2-lata-i6559780329.html

I am asking for your opinions (supported by experience), cut fingers from an ordinary file have already got bored ...

Hi, when it comes to the electric-position 3 quite to d..y, the vertical angle of sharpening is variable with the degree of wear of the grinding wheel. Item 4 looks quite good, but in practice I did not meet such a person.

Just like the previous speaker no. 3 or 4 and buy the same file with the guide, and such a set is enough for a few years in addition to the file

You have to decide for yourself 1 is the most universal because you can take it with you to the forest, for example, and it does not require any power, and sharpening with a file consumes the least. Electric ones are both of them look not very much - plastic construction = vibrations. I have to find a solution for it myself, because I have a sharp edge, but then the angles are not preserved and the chain pulls.

I used the three of them, poorly adjustable and holding this setting. The chain breaks, the distance to the teeth changes because the plate is bent in its mounting, and in practice I have sharpened the eye. The only plus is that there is a motor, shield and chain guide.
This "my" is a little different, more plastic from what I remember, but I have not seen it for a year.

The effects of my sharpening are probably due to the conditions of sharpening but less about it. I once saw a nice thing with a friend like a starter for sharpening chains for a drill. Something similar to this:


Personally, it is too much for me. I think to do something similar to myself:
Here, the price link: link
I am thinking of doing it myself with some high-speed motor on 12V and buying some shields for stock. Power stationary from the power supply or mobile from a screwdriver battery.

At the beginning I liked the electric ones - they seemed to me comfortable because "they have a drive", but now I am more inclined towards the manual point 1) and additionally an oregon plate for the correction of stops + an ordinary flat file
To all who advised against point 3) (which I most wanted) thank you for breaking this one out of my head, now I understood that it probably is not good enough.
I do not go to the forest, but if I invest from PLN 200, I would like to sharpen the chains.

I found another set
5) http://allegro.pl/zestaw-do-ostrzenia-lancucha-ostrzalka-oregon-4-0-i6617352547.html

i.e. mini guide + files. I guess this 1) will be better?

In 1 you have on the real guide, which should keep the angle and in 2 already this angle depends on the skill of the sharpener, i.e. the same as sharpening with a file for PLN 5 plus is a guide restricting the penetration of the file and attachment for limiting the limbs, but the angle depends on you.

Rycho T wrote:

If someone can not sharpen the chain with a file, do not even think about it.
With us, there is a belief that the chain sharpens only when it does not want to cut anymore, or the smoke goes from the guide

Ladies, are there any rules how much to sharpen the chain? Does it depend on the amount of wood cut or the amount of fuel burned?
Of course, we talk about "clean" wood and no foreign bodies.

The rule is one, it will blunt.

The chain is sharpened on the basis of observation of the chip as it gets finer and when the chain stops picking up the wood under the pressure of the saw itself, it is necessary to sharpen the 2 strokes of the file to the tooth. It is not true that it should be sharpened if it blunts to such an extent that a trot is flying, because then the gear-rack drive is overloaded and wear out faster and the engine may give up the spirit. There is one principle in the pilots' environment a sharp chain is the basis no matter if it is husqvarna or chinol so much. Defocused chain gets hotter and it stretches faster as someone has a chainsaw, not for the first time in his hands he knows what's going on.
One more note about sharpening with a file and sharpener. Using a sharpener, Laika will do more damage than good and "blows" his teeth, which will harden the material and the result will be that after a few meters the chain will be dull as after meeting the nail. With the file is similarly after sharpening at the wrong angle, the chain will pull on one side or even pull it.