Cutting Holes in Existing Screeds for Underfloor Heating: Depth, Even Heating, & Experiences

Hello,

did anyone cut holes in the existing screed and lay pipes for underfloor heating? If so, at what depth were the holes cut? I am thinking of such a solution, but I am afraid that the floor will not heat evenly, i.e. only the surface just above the pipe will heat, next to it cold and then another pipe and heat. With the traditional way of laying underfloor heating, the entire surface heats evenly.
Is it even worth thinking about such a solution?

I am asking for your opinions / experiences.

thank you!

The tubes are placed fairly close together, so if you cut furrows on them, then this spout won't be much. It is better to immediately forge the floor completely and pour a new one.
Also, do not forget that there must be insulation under the tubes.

Thank you!
the problem is that this is a fresh home and fresh floors, we did not take this into account before and now we would like to 'add some extra' to the floor as invasively as possible. I have heard of such a device as a wall chaser to cut holes in a quick and less invasive way, but before I make a decision I want to know if it makes sense. There is foamed polystyrene under the screeds, there is not only a thermal insulation foil. On the other hand, it's about floors upstairs, so there shouldn't be much heat loss.

best regards

Welcome.

Consider the electric heating mat, you do not need to cut furrows under it, except for one for the temperature sensor.

best regards

Parowy wrote:

Consider an electric heating mat

Higher operating costs but you can consider. Maybe the author will explain why

agapyta wrote:

now we would like to add some extra floor space

Last week, I witnessed groove milling under
floor heating.
The pipes were hidden in concrete about half a cm, but the whole thing was to be covered with a layer of some
two cm thick.
For better heat distribution over the floor surface, I suggest tubes
lay the metal mesh and just pour
Metal is a much better heat conductor than concrete and will additionally strengthen a fairly thin screed

And how large the surface is to be heated with underfloor?
What is the room: kitchen, bathroom, hallway or room / living room?
Is there still other heating, e.g. radiators, or just a floor?

anders11 wrote:

Last week, I witnessed groove milling under
floor heating.
The pipes were hidden in concrete about half a cm, but the whole thing was to be covered with a layer of some
two cm thick.


For better heat distribution over the floor surface, I suggest tubes
lay the metal mesh and just pour
Metal is a much better heat conductor than concrete and will additionally strengthen a fairly thin screed

are you able to determine what mass? In addition, is the installation already fired and how does it work?
What metal mesh are you thinking of?

thank you for answering!

Added after 57 [seconds]:

ls_77 wrote:

And how large the surface is to be heated with underfloor?
What is the room: kitchen, bathroom, hallway or room / living room?
Is there still other heating, e.g. radiators, or just a floor?

there are rooms on the first floor, bedrooms, about 80m in total, there are heaters, now we regret that no floor ...: /

I have read that underfloor heating should not be used in bedrooms. I just can't remember why.

ak44 wrote:

I have read that underfloor heating should not be used in bedrooms

Yeah. It was also once said that the earth was flat. This is another myth to be refuted

agapyta wrote:

there are rooms on the first floor, bedrooms, about 80m in total, there are heaters, now we regret that no floor ...: /

It promises to be quite a big deal. You also need to remember to connect these floor loops somewhere in the manifold, i.e. lead to one common place. So not at all more expensive and maybe cheaper (and certainly better) will be forging entire floors and doing everything according to the art.

I can't imagine cutting the concrete (even with a grooving tool) that these uncut elements remain intact - they can always crack and fall off. In addition, I would be afraid later that the floor made in such a way will crack and the pipe could be damaged on these cracks.

And can you afford to raise the entire floor. They are so-called drywall renovation systems, I just can't remember the producers and how much the floor is rising.

I furrowed the screed and inserted the pipes into the furrows and later poured a small amount of concrete. The depth varied from 2cm to 5cm (it was spout on the ceiling). Unfortunately, a lot of work with it and you need to have a vacuum cleaner connected to a wall chaser. If you heat with gas all the time, there are no big temperature differences, if you burn it with rubbish for 3-4 hours, you can feel the temperature difference a bit.

agapyta wrote:

are you able to determine what mass? In addition, is the installation already fired and how does it work?
What metal mesh are you thinking of?

I can't determine the type of mass but I will be on this site in about a month so I can "pull the tongue"
Metal mesh with mesh around 10mm wire thickness up to 1mm

ls_77 wrote:

ak44 wrote:

I have read that underfloor heating should not be used in bedrooms

Yeah. It was also once said that the earth was flat. This is another myth to be refuted

agapyta wrote:

there are rooms on the first floor, bedrooms, about 80m in total, there are heaters, now we regret that no floor ...: /

It promises to be quite a big deal. You also need to remember to connect these floor loops somewhere in the manifold, i.e. lead to one common place. So not at all more expensive and maybe cheaper (and certainly better) will be forging entire floors and doing everything according to the art.

I can't imagine cutting the concrete (even with a grooving tool) that these uncut elements remain intact - they can always crack and fall off. In addition, I would be afraid later that the floor made in such a way will crack and the pipe could be damaged on these cracks.

And can you afford to raise the entire floor. They are so-called drywall renovation systems, I just can't remember the producers and how much the floor is rising.

this is the problem I have, what I see is forging or picking up or leaving as it is ... hmmm I thought it would be easier ... thank you for rep!

agapyta wrote:

there are rooms on the first floor, bedrooms, about 80m in total, there are heaters, now we regret that no floor ...

I have heaters for 60 years, parquet floor and I do not regret it. If you have such a surface of the radiators that even in freezing days do not have to be very hot to warm the bedroom, then you have similar comfort as with the floor. Since the bedrooms are on the first floor, the floor does not create a sense of cool unless you put ceramic or marble tiles.
When the radiators are very hot, humidifiers or a wet towel laid on the radiator are necessary.

Now cutting grooves for underfloor heating is no problem at all. Everything is described under this article and you will learn how to do it and which cutter to choose for chasing the floor.

https://www.diamentowe.net.pl/fazowanie-posad...arzenia-podlogowe-frezami-diamentarskie/]Link [/url]

The guests who order are just milling concrete with a machine.

Strumien swiadomosci swia wrote:

The guests who order are just milling concrete with a machine.

Well, if you do not have time and resources, you can order it. Here I drop a contact to the company that cut the grooves for my client and is very happy.
Łukasz Krzyszczuk
503811849
https://usuwa-subitu.pl/kontakt/

And how with the spout after such milling? Will not crack? After all, it is spread over polystyrene.
After all, the milling machine makes grooves to a depth of about 2 cm, i.e. instead of 6 cm of screed / screed, we have 4 cm.

The whole thing is puffed up with high-text glue after inserting the wires - I recommend contact with the Lord whom I have already indicated.

and if it is on the first floor, there are no balcony windows, then you can put pipes on the existing floor and pour 4-5 cm strong concrete

ak44 wrote:

I have read that underfloor heating should not be used in bedrooms. I just don't remember why.

Apparently because you cannot leave dirty socks on such a floor - there will be a smell

You can mill furrows, you want the warm floor effect because you already have radiators. A furrow 25mm deep and 25mm wide will not weaken the bedding. After positioning the PEX tubes, fill the grooves with Nivoplan Plus Mapei. Make a little none so that the tubes fail well. The furrows may be 15-20 cm apart. No, they have to be every 10 cm. The floor will warm up. The length of the loop is more important. Let them not be longer than 60m.

https://youtu.be/MTpj0IvJnNI
This is how it is done.