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Audi A4 - Pad Wear Lighting Indicator Issue: Replaced Blocks, Soldered Wires, & Detector Bypass

Pitol2710 23916 18
Best answers

Dlaczego po wymianie przednich klocków bez czujnika zużycia nadal zapala się kontrolka zużycia hamulców w Audi A4?

Najpierw sprawdź poziom płynu hamulcowego, bo zbyt niski poziom też potrafi zapalić tę kontrolkę, a po dolaniu u jednego z uczestników problem na chwilę zniknął [#17051575][#17060530] Jeśli chcesz testować obejście, zrób mostek nie przy kole, tylko w kostce na nadwoziu, pod gumowymi osłonami — tam są dwa złącza, jedno od ABS, drugie od czujnika klocków [#17051866] Wskazano też, że mostek warto zrobić na czujniku płynu hamulcowego i sprawdzić, czy lampka wtedy gaśnie [#17051681][#17071913] Jeśli jeździsz bez czujnika w nowych klockach, stały mostek w tej kostce pozwoli potwierdzić, czy winny jest obwód czujnika, a nie same klocki [#17070712] Zwrócono też uwagę, że z tyłu zwykle nie ma czujników zużycia, więc problem najpewniej leży w płynie albo w instalacji/obejściu czujnika [#17051724][#17073031]
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  • #1 17051552
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    Some time ago I replaced the blocks at the front. Of course, I mistakenly ordered pads without a wear detector. So I bridged the cables from the old blocks and plucked my ankles. It was ok for about 3 weeks, then after firing and nwm pressing the brake or after some time the wear indicator lights up again. I have been riding like this for some time but it starts to annoy me. I decided to improve the quality by soldering the wires, but nothing helped. The only solution is to buy new blocks with detectors, but I think whether with new blocks will not be the same if the connection is ok now. Any ideas what might be wrong?
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  • #2 17051572
    nuszek
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1421
    Help: 123
    Rate: 388
    The Audi A4 version is thunderous!
    In my A4, just unplug the wires so that the indicator light does not shine, but why, why is it to replace the pads. Brakes are the key.
  • Helpful post
    #3 17051575
    osiniak75
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2075
    Help: 350
    Rate: 542
    As with the level of brake fluid, at low levels it can also ignite.
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  • #4 17051577
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    When I unplugged the cable and installed the brick without a detector, the message was lit immediately. Hmm fluid level is ok .....
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  • #5 17051679
    marcin_wr
    Level 21  
    Posts: 289
    Help: 42
    Rate: 103
    Pitol2710 wrote:
    Any ideas what might be wrong?

    Have you looked into the rear blocks?
  • #6 17051681
    citromaniak
    Level 23  
    Posts: 700
    Help: 53
    Rate: 388
    Make a jumper on the brake fluid sensor and see then
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  • #7 17051699
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    Do you think that in b5 1.6 '99 there would be a detector on the back? Anyway, I looked there is still something to stop :D .
  • #8 17051724
    osiniak75
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2075
    Help: 350
    Rate: 542
    There are no sensors on the back unless you have brakes from the Audi RS
  • #9 17051866
    Jackall
    Level 27  
    Posts: 851
    Help: 77
    Rate: 393
    Make jumpers, but not at the wheels, but in the body, where the wires come under the rubber caps. There are two cubes, one abs, and another pad sensor.
  • #10 17052135
    bodzio012
    Level 33  
    Posts: 1888
    Help: 161
    Rate: 777
    Vagiem off
  • #11 17060530
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    As it turned out, however, there was not enough fluid, after refilling the indicator no longer pops up :D
    The problem appeared again after driving a larger piece. All I can do is turn it off in vagu?
  • #12 17070712
    citromaniak
    Level 23  
    Posts: 700
    Help: 53
    Rate: 388
    Make a jumper permanently in this cube and you already know what to replace, why turn it off in vag how you can replace the broken part and after trouble
  • #13 17071370
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    I don't really understand. Oo. The jumper is permanently soldered, so what's going on and what should I replace if nwm what's broken? Oo
  • #14 17071913
    citromaniak
    Level 23  
    Posts: 700
    Help: 53
    Rate: 388
    Jumper on the brake fluid sensor?
  • #15 17071975
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    How do you know that the problem lies in the fluid sensor?
  • #16 17072005
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #17 17072015
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    I added some liquid and what? And nothing changed. I was just waiting for such a typical forum paper clip. This is the forum to ask something and help yourself instead of listening to go straight to the mechanic and a funny control that lights up for unknown reasons because I'm sure the system is ok
  • #18 17073031
    citromaniak
    Level 23  
    Posts: 700
    Help: 53
    Rate: 388
    I did not write here that the problem is because I do not know about it yet that you do jumper on it and so drive 2 days as all ok, you know what to replace.And how is the problem with the sensors wear blocks. Is it so difficult to understand?
  • #19 20726087
    Pitol2710
    Level 7  
    Posts: 31
    Rate: 5
    Please remove the post.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around an Audi A4 owner's issue with the pad wear lighting indicator after replacing brake pads without wear detectors. The user initially bridged the cables from the old blocks, which worked temporarily but led to the indicator lighting up again. Suggestions from other users included checking the brake fluid level, inspecting rear blocks, and making jumpers on the brake fluid sensor. The user confirmed that the fluid level was adequate but continued to experience the issue. Eventually, it was suggested to create a permanent jumper in the wiring to bypass the sensor, although the user expressed confusion about the necessity of replacing components without knowing the exact fault. The conversation highlights the importance of proper brake maintenance and the potential for sensor-related issues in the Audi A4.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 2 body-side connectors sit under rubber caps; "Make jumpers, but not at the wheels, but in the body." This FAQ helps Audi A4 B5 owners stop recurring pad‑wear lights after sensorless pads or weak splices, using connector jumpers for diagnosis. [Elektroda, Jackall, post #17051866] Why it matters: It shows how to quickly isolate wiring vs. sensor issues so you can fix the warning without guesswork.

Quick Facts

How do I fix a pad-wear light that returns after bridging at the caliper?

Bridge the circuit at the body-side connector, not at the wheel. Corrosion or breaks between the body plug and caliper often cause intermittent opens. Find the two rubber-capped plugs and jumper the pad-wear one to test. If the light stays off, repair that harness segment. If it persists, the issue is upstream. "Make jumpers, but not at the wheels, but in the body." [Elektroda, Jackall, post #17051866]

Does a 1999 Audi A4 B5 have rear pad-wear sensors?

No. The standard A4 B5 does not have rear pad-wear sensors. An exception is if someone fitted RS-spec brakes. "There are no sensors on the back unless you have brakes from the Audi RS." That means rear pad wear will not trigger the warning on the stock setup. [Elektroda, osiniak75, post #17051724]

Can low brake fluid trigger the brake pad warning?

Yes. Low fluid can illuminate the same warning in this platform. Confirm the reservoir is between MIN and MAX, and inspect for leaks. Quote: "As with the level of brake fluid, at low levels it can also ignite." If topping up helps only briefly, diagnose the level sensor and system for losses. [Elektroda, osiniak75, post #17051575]

How do I jumper the pad-wear circuit at the body connector?

Use this 3-step check:
  1. Locate the two rubber-capped connectors in the body near the wheel; identify the pad-wear plug.
  2. Insert a shorting jumper across the pad-wear connector to close the loop.
  3. Start the car and drive; if the light stays off, the fault is from that plug to the caliper. This isolates harness or caliper-side faults cleanly. [Elektroda, Jackall, post #17051866]

How can I quickly test the brake fluid level sensor?

Unplug the brake fluid level sensor and fit a small jumper across its pins to simulate a healthy level. If the warning clears, the level sensor or its float is faulty. If it stays on, continue wiring diagnosis and pad-wear loop testing. Restore the original connection after testing. This quick jumper test narrows the cause fast. [Elektroda, citromaniak, post #17051681]

Unplugging the pad sensor made the light stay on—normal?

Yes. The pad-wear circuit is monitored for an open loop. Unplugging creates an open circuit and keeps the warning illuminated. To extinguish the light without a sensor, you must close the loop with a reliable jumper at the correct connector. Soldering helps only if all segments of the loop are sound. [Elektroda, Pitol2710, post #17051577]

Refilling brake fluid cleared the light briefly; why did it return?

The level likely hovered near the trigger point or the level sensor is intermittent. After driving, the light returned as the level dropped or the sensor acted up. This pattern indicates you should verify the level again, inspect for leaks, and test the level sensor with a jumper. [Elektroda, Pitol2710, post #17060530]

Can I just code the pad-wear warning off with VCDS/VAG-COM?

It’s possible to turn it off with VAG tools, but weigh safety implications first. The warning exists to protect braking performance. Disabling should be a last resort after proper diagnosis or when using reliable bypasses. Tools like VCDS make coding changes easy, but use them responsibly. [Elektroda, bodzio012, post #17052135]

Where exactly are the connectors I should jumper?

In the body near the wheel well, under rubber caps, you’ll find two connectors. One is ABS, the other is the pad-wear circuit. Bridge the pad-wear connector there to test the loop. This avoids wheel-end corrosion masking the real fault. There are two connectors total in that location. [Elektroda, Jackall, post #17051866]

How long should I drive after installing a jumper to confirm the diagnosis?

Drive about 2 days with the jumper fitted. If the light stays off, replace the failed sensor or repair the harness. If the light returns, look upstream at the fluid sensor or cluster inputs. This duration helps catch intermittent breaks and vibration-related faults. [Elektroda, citromaniak, post #17073031]

Will rear pad wear trigger the warning on my A4 B5?

No, not on a stock A4 B5. The system monitors front pad-wear only unless an RS brake swap was installed. So, focus diagnosis on the front circuits, connectors, and fluid level. Rear pad condition won’t set this indicator on standard cars. [Elektroda, osiniak75, post #17051724]

I installed pads without sensors; will buying pads with detectors stop the warning?

Yes, using pads with the correct wear leads restores the factory closed loop. If you keep sensorless pads, you must maintain a durable jumper in the circuit. Weak splices can flicker the light as the loop opens under vibration. [Elektroda, Pitol2710, post #17051552]

Why do some owners say unplugging clears the light, but mine stays on?

Cluster behavior and wiring states can differ across cars and years. One owner reported the light did not shine after unplugging, but your circuit likely detects open loop. Close the loop with a jumper instead of leaving it open. [Elektroda, nuszek, post #17051572]

What edge case keeps the light on even after I solder a jumper at the caliper?

Hidden harness damage near the body connectors can reopen the loop. Jumpering only at the caliper won’t bypass corrosion or breaks upstream. Move the test to the body-side pad-wear connector under the rubber caps to isolate that segment. [Elektroda, Jackall, post #17051866]
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