Astra H 1.6XEP Radiator Fan Motor Repair: Resuscitating Idle Resistor Windings

Hello.

I am assuming a new thread, as well as a non-standard repair.

And so:
How many Asterek users have a fault with the 1st speed of the radiator fan.
The Astra H 1.6XEP has two speeds of the radiator fan motor, although the entire electrical system is adapted to three (3 relays: No. 11, 12, 13; wiring, double-winding resistor: 0.8 ohms / 0.7 ohms - 1st and 2nd gear).
The controller gives the signal only to two relays, i.e. 12 and 13, and 11 does not work at all - checked with a simple device on three LEDs.
Anyway, it is shown in the diagram - Annex

Thus, one resistor winding remains idle all the time and does not burn out over time.
If we want the easiest way and cost-free to resuscitate the radiator fan resistance,
then unscrew the resistor from the fan (you have to pick up the car and lie down under it - good access),
unscrew the resistor housing (torx 20), open it (pry with a flat screwdriver and then bridge the two middle pins).
Just in case, you can remove the relay 11 from the fuse box, if you are concerned.
We enjoy the work of the resistor for the next 10 years :)

(unfortunately I did not do that, I cut off the resistor and I will install the power resistors in its place - I will describe in a separate post)

I have a question for my friend because we also have this problem. I haven't cut off the Opronica yet. I want to bridge these pins. Maybe a colleague write how to do it? I know you wrote the middle two. So in the ankle or?

Added after 4 [minutes]:

I had an ailment that I replaced the thermostat, poured fresh liquid and started the car to vent. The car warmed up to 112 * c, the fan did not vibrate. I connected the computer. I did a fan test with the op comem. There was a 3 gear option. Only 2 and 3, i.e. fast rotation, turned on. Engine z16xe1. In summer, with the air conditioning only, it turned on at high speed from time to time and turned off again and again.

Hello.

Bridge as convenient for you: either two middle plates in the cube, or two wires from these contacts.
This method will work if the resistor has one winding blown.

So it is enough to solder a piece of copper wire?
I understand that these are the two plates where is the plug in the last photo?

Hey.
The connection must be secure - the fan is around 100W.
To be sure, shorten these two plates from the thinner plugs, make sure that it works and then connect them ultimately - rather with a thicker wire or better with a piece of the plate twisted with these two plates (as in the photos showing the assembly of the resistor winding to the contacts on the old resistor).
Good luck

ASTRA H 1.6 Z16XEP one fan on the radiator by the engine
no 1st fan gear, the second turns on correctly at about 115st
I have no relay and fuse as in the graphics
The question is whether the K10 relay is responsible for the first gear? If I connect the appropriate test pins, the fan should turn on (of course, if the resistor and thermal fuse are functional} ????
As the pins on the K2 relay are connected, the fan turns on at second gear
The fan does not work as well as I turn on the air conditioning (but it is not loaded)
thanks for the help

Hey.
Everything above is elegantly described which relay for what

but I have a plug for 3 pins, not 4

Check for yourself with a simple tester which pins show voltage and you will know everything

so this brown relay is responsible for the first gear right? if the air conditioning is not loaded, the fan should turn on (in the first gear ???) as the air conditioning turns on because with me it does not turn on

Hey.
I have described everything in detail, please read it.
Does the fan turn on when the air conditioning is not loaded? - I don't know, but why do you need a fan if you don't have a full air conditioner.
Stuff it, read the posts carefully, check it out for yourself

If the air conditioning is not loaded, the fan will not turn on. It will only be activated by the motor controller at high liquid temperature. The air-conditioning controller activates both gears from the pressure switch sensor. This is at least the case with automatic air conditioning. The second gear is engaged at a pressure of 22 bar, I do not know the first because I also have a broken resistor. When the resistor is burnt, it is not good because when the air conditioning is stopped, the air conditioner cools poorly, it turns on the fan only for a moment. There are also sudden jumps in pressure in the air conditioning system - I watched on the pressure gauges. The resistor is wound two windings with a double wire, the ends of the pins of the windings are cross, I tore it burned. Can be bridged at the end of the resistor if the second winding is good. I have it temporarily, the fan turns on for a longer time, but still in impulse. This resistor has too little resistance because the rotations of the first and second gears do not differ much (low resistance, low voltage losses, heats up less, a small change in speed, something for something). As above, the system has 3-speed cables and only 2 work. Currently, I plan to wind a single resistor on the original carcass or insert a single one from another car. I have a thick resistance wire from a heater, I have to test because it heats up quite a lot when the fan speed is low. The best solution would be to use some kind of PWM driver.

Thanks for the exhaustive answer. I fixed the first gear, the resistor wire was broken, fortunately when mounting, so I shortened it slightly and clamped it to the mounting pin.
I already know that without refrigerant or due to a small amount of air conditioning and the fan does not turn on (I have 160kPa), the minimum pressure is supposed to be 200 kPa
It attracts and let you know what and how.

air conditioning cooler replaced (old sieve), one O-ring - the one on the sensor, charging the factor and air conditioning works

Hi.
I have a similar problem with the lack of 1st gear of the radiator fan in the Astra h 1.6 XER.
Symptom: after turning on the air conditioning, after a few moments the fan is turned on in 2nd gear and the icon of the car with the key pops up on the clocks (error P0481).
Actions taken:
replacement of the resistor with a new one - no changes
replacement of the fan with a resistor (stimulant) - no changes
replacement of relays and fuse - no changes

I can control both fan speeds via the interface.
By bridging the pins in the relays, both gears work.
When connecting the fan (3-pin) to the battery briefly, both gears work.

Where to find the reason for the lack of 1st gear?

Edit: Problem solved.
The cause was in the oxidized wire on the bundle from the ECU. Soldering did the trick.

A very helpful topic. I used this description and temporarily repaired the resistor in this way. Playing with the winding of the resistance wire does not make sense now, because replacements are available and for little money. The important thing is the burning of fuse no. 5 and then we have no fan speed. This is because due to the lack of a lower gear, the highest one is activated immediately and the fuse simply cannot withstand such a load

jumpi77 wrote:

Hi.
I am having the same issue with my astra 1.6 2006.
I have changed the resistor as the previous owner had soldered it, but still the first gear of the radiator fan doesn't turn on, only the high speed at around 115°. Could you give me some more detailed pics or explaining what you did to fix yours?
And also does this affect the AC because when this problem started the AC stopped working.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ih9R8DlA0do

I have 3 questions... and a dilemma.

Dilemma: 2 options for repair seems the best.
* buying new replacement resistor kit
* creating an adapter

I think initial solution is not so best (speed 1 to use R3 instead of R1) because what @grzesiekw17 said. Thank you for your comment.

Question 1: Anyone with long term feedback on aftermarket resistances... Do/When they fail?
* we could overheat engine if they fail
* Maybe @grzesiekw17 could give some info?

Question 2: Anny issue with creating such adapter? Steps:
* buying aftermarket resistance connector kit and female connector,
* remove resistance from the kit
* wire kit and female connector in adapter in that way:
** for speed 1 use resistor 2 instead of resistor 1
** for speed 2 use resistor 3 instead of resistor 2

Question 3: Could we use same resistor kit for few engines?
* Because I see differences for different engines, reading diagram from post 1 (I am really bad in electronics)
* Schema for Z12XEP / Z14XE / Z12XEP differs from Z16XEP which differs from Z18XE which differs from Z18XER.
* Maybe @GrzesiekSz.-n could contribute on this?

Best option is to buy new replacement resistor, its cost so cheap that's making new or renewing actual not make any sense.

For me i have z14xep petrol, 4 level fan (4th is max that skip resistor at all) it works few years.

Probably better is making some sort PWM regulated FAN (even 1st gear would be nice) but that needs more work than buy replacement and installing it.

That's a solid fix .
Main fan (radiator and condenser) resistor OPEL Meriva A 2005 .

@enhanced Thanks for you reply.

Which brand is your resistor? 4 years is great.

https://allegro.pl/oferta/95skv072-rezystor-dmuchawy-opel-meriva-esen-skv-16654751707
95SKV072 BLOWER RESISTOR OPEL MERIVA ESEN SKV

Cheapest or in other words only one available.

Almost 5 years bought 22.08.2020 for similar price.

Now I'm thinking about replacing 1 gear to PWM regulated but that's still in thinking "version".