Hello! I am looking for information on what may be the reason why the Burgman AN400 engine, version K1, manufactured in 1999, does not start. The engine spins and does not start. Sometimes the fuel smells like fuel and it doesn't start anyway. Initially, I thought the problem was with the battery, but even after connecting the charger, it also did not start. If I shake the carburetor it will catch and fire sometimes. Is the problem on the carburetor's side, that something hangs in it and fires and fails?
It's starting to annoy me and I'm afraid of it wherever I go.
If I get caught after moving the carburetor, I would bet on a fuel float. You have to strip, clean, set the height, the task is rather difficult to act on your own, high precision and full tightness of the system are required. From home methods, you can pour some fuel on the pistons (candle hole) a few drops is enough when it starts with a sign that it is something wrong with the fuel mixture, but if you say that fuel stinks, it can flood it, so first it would be appropriate to cut off the fuel supply by e.g. taking out carburetor or shutting off the fuel tank and draining it from the carburetor. And when was the last time you serviced this carburetor?
Hello! I took the carburetor apart and simply put it back together, I didn't notice any specific flaws. The engine fired, but it does not revolve and the electrode in the candle made you black (and it was clean) is sooty. Too rich mixture? Though I didn't regulate any nozzles. Could it be that the needle with the diaphragm is hanging? Today, if I succeed, I will disassemble the carburetor one more time and look at it more closely, maybe I'll spot something. And I will come back in info.
Disassembling the carburettor and reassembling it with the old gaskets while maintaining full tightness is a very rare case Candles work well after driving 6-10 km, it just needs to burn out before it changes color.
Hello. You are absolutely right. but I have to bring him to such a state that he will travel a few km to the site. And since I didn't play with the nozzles, it must be something with a float or a spike. Although the float seemed to be tight to me, the problem must generally be with the needle.
If you are sure that you want to do it yourself, I will advise you as well as I can how to do it myself. However, remember that you do everything at your own risk. The issue of float leakage you would definitely notice, we are talking about a float chamber, of course, you would see it and feel it for sure. You need to find a service and check what the fuel level should be, it's easy, just put a transparent hose on the drain valve, unscrew the screw and use the right connected vessels to determine the fuel level and compare what is recommended with what you have. Below, more vividly.
Hello. Yesterday I turned the carburetor on again. All membranes are intact, i.e. not torn or broken. The float is tight, the spike is working. I put everything together: it fired, it idled nicely, but every now and then it went out by itself. (here I think I must set the idle speed of the engine very precisely). I changed for a test drive and the "meatball" - the engine does not turn on. After turning the handle, it goes out (probably a problem with the fuel, too much), but after a few attempts, it was possible to start and increase the speed. But the turnover was not even. The engine was interrupting, I had to hold the revolutions while driving to keep it from going out. Is it an electrical problem or fuel again? So maybe it's a voltage regulator? Maybe you know how to recognize the symptoms of a damaged regulator? Because when I connected the meter after starting the engine and added gas, the voltage increased, when I turned on the lights, the voltage dropped. Shouldn't he keep the tension evenly no matter what's on?
The second thing is the battery, I have to buy a new one because it is already working poorly. What do you recommend, company or some replacement?
I know anything can be the cause, but knowing life, it's probably a bullshit. Maybe a worn electrical harness is making a short circuit, or maybe something else.
Hello, First, buddy, we need to control the chaos One by one, methodically, not blindly and little by little, because then you will need a surgeon, not a mechanic. 1. Such symptoms can be caused by: a) bad regulation of the mixture composition - difficult to define at home b) left air - take a car star, place a different flammable spray and spray the carburetor on a fired engine and look if you spray somewhere, the revs do not change, usually they increase. If so, you have a so-called leak. left air. c) the timing was changed - but we will leave it for now d) bad clearance on the valves as above e) lack of proper compression - but I understand that you do not have a device to measure it? f) problem on the air flow line - clean the filter and replace it if it is more than two years old 2. As for the electrics: a) check the condition of the candle and the quality of the spark - the candle has no defects and the gap is in accordance with the manufacturer's data (do you have a feeler gauge?) b) to check charging, it is best to start with the battery - connect the meter as it is 13.6 - 14.5 it is ok (the measurement should be carried out on a good battery) you wrote that yours is weak so it is possible that it will be a little less. If the above values are not caught, then from the regulator to the so-called There are 3 wires in one color, usually yellow, you set the measurement to 230 alternating current and measure all 3. when taking measurements because it can hurt ) c) the drop in charging voltage on running lights, i.e. under load, is a natural phenomenon and there is nothing to look for here ;)
In conclusion, first you need to clean the carburetor, set the correct fuel level, adjust it carefully. If the problem persists, continue looking. Unfortunately, it is very rarely possible to immediately pinpoint the cause of a failure. Follow the thread to the ball and without jerky movements , remember to measure the drill 5 times hehe.
Hello! After my stay in the garage yesterday: 1.Regarding the engine not turning over: I fumbled on the net and it turned out that I incorrectly installed the firing pin under the black plastic lid. When I assembled ok and I managed to start it, the engine worked like a dream. - one case excluded. I changed and went for a test drive: I drove with 10 km, sometimes at full speed, everything looked ok and I turned off under the garage. Another attempt to fire was unsuccessful. and what a disguise again and a scooter. I connected the rectifier and started spinning and nothing, the fuel does not smell. I was moving the carburetor I started to spin it smelled fuel. - maybe something with a fuel pump? although when I remove the fuel hose and turn the ignition on, the fuel flies. There are two hoses to the carburetor: - such with a white tip and with a spring and with a needle. What is he for? trying to measure the resistance on the leads gave no result when moving the needle. - the second black tip - is attached to the throttle. is it from automatic choke?
2. on electrics. when I checked the spark on the candle, I noticed that between the single flashes of the spark, from time to time there is a flash around the circumference of the entire electrode. I replaced it with another candle and it is the same.
3. I generally decided to get a new battery today. because yesterday evening around 9 p.m. the voltage was 13.5V and this morning it was 12.5V, during firing this morning the voltage dropped to 10.2V. and spun slower and slower. as I connected the rectifier, the current to max. it fired the first time. maybe that's the root cause. 4.As for the valves, I have never adjusted them, and I have had the scooter for three years. but it must be done by a professional. because I do not know how to set each valve (although there are probably 2 of them) in the adjustment position, i.e. "clearance"
Summing up: when I connect a new battery, we will see how it will spin and whether it will fire.
Hello, From the end, but at the beginning, this cube from the regulator asks for a replacement. The best for the flow of electricity would be to solder it, so you will not burn more the cube. No resistance is a good sign, and how many volts when fired as I wrote you? (If you are afraid of measuring, go ahead, there's no need to bother here)
The battery, if you want, replace it, but I don't know what for? Are you 13.5 and 10.5 on the engine off or on?
As for the black one, the other one, I can't imagine where it is . You need to give some photos, maybe then I can tell you something.
The first thing you do with this cube is very important. Three years is a service missed by two years. Timing and valves to be checked. For replacing air, fuel, oil and oil filters. Complete cleaning of the carburetor with regulation is offered by the purchase of the so-called repair kit and replacing it with new ones, the cost of a few zlotys and less problems. It is obligatory to replace the spark plug and the brake fluid.
And now like this: Timing, valves, fuel and air filter, oil and filter changes, spark plug replacement are simple matters, you can do it. Carburetor and brake fluid are a bit of a higher driving school, the carburetor will quickly tell you that something hurts, but there is no room for errors in the brake fluid.
I think that when he rode and after turning off the bryndza again, it turns out that something is either freezing in the carburetor or something is standing on the fuel flow line, although it is strange that once it is standing and not. What kind of fuel pump are you talking about? There should be a vacuum fuel supply from the carburetor, possibly by gravity. I do not know the construction of this particular model, so the advice is general ;)
Hello, I'm sorry I haven't spoken in the last few days. I replaced the battery and the problem was over. So the battery was crashed. When I connected a new one, was it idling or added gas, the charging current was always the same, probably 14.4V, and the old one went crazy from 13V to 17V
Although now I have a choke problem when starting a cold engine. It kind of doesn't work, but I have to unscrew it and watch it.
14.4 is exemplary but this jump to 17, unless it is a measurement error, is already disturbing. Check this charging on a very well warmed up engine, the regulator is already so hot when it ends it starts to go crazy. Replace this cube with the regulator anyway because it's a time bomb, so the question is not only when will it cause trouble . Choke not working again is the most common cause of problems with carburetor adjustment, although I would recommend checking first if there is any trimming in it.