FAQ
TL;DR: On a Burgman 400 that clicks but won’t crank, owners report 2 root causes—“You only have 2 possible reasons”: bad power cables or the start‑button circuit. Use a 12V bulb or bridge the relay to pinpoint the fault before replacing parts. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]
Why it matters: This FAQ helps Burgman 400 K1 riders quickly isolate no‑crank faults without guesswork or wasted parts.
Quick Facts
- Hearing the relay usually rules out the ignition switch; focus on the relay, starter, or wiring. [Elektroda, sylweksylwina, post #16977238]
- Fast, repeated relay ticking points to a weak/discharged battery; a single click means check voltage at the starter. [Elektroda, reneeww, post #16978367]
- No meter handy? Clip a 12V bulb to the starter feed; if it lights while cranking, suspect the starter. [Elektroda, barton21, post #16977523]
- Bypass test: short the two thick red relay posts; if the starter spins, replace the relay. [Elektroda, paweld69, post #16980686]
- Location reference: starter and relay sit on the left side, ahead of the seat. [Elektroda, freerider-hot, post #18422027]
My Burgman 400 K1 clicks but won’t start—what’s the likely cause?
If you hear the relay, the ignition switch is typically fine. Suspects are the relay itself, the starter motor, or wiring. Check power delivery to the starter and the main grounds. Corrosion or loose connections can block current. Inspect battery terminals and the starter cable lug. Clean and tighten before buying parts. [Elektroda, sylweksylwina, post #16977238]
The relay ticks rapidly—could my battery still be weak?
Yes. Rapid, repetitive clicking indicates low battery voltage under load. A single click suggests moving to voltage checks at the starter. Recharge and load‑test the battery, then try again. If it still clicks rapidly, measure voltage drop while pressing the starter. Replace the battery if it sags hard. [Elektroda, reneeww, post #16978367]
How do I test the relay/starter without a multimeter?
Use a 12V bulb as a simple load. Clip one lead to the starter feed and the other to ground. Press the starter. If the bulb lights, the relay and wiring supply power; the starter is suspect. If it does not light, the issue is upstream. This quick check helps before you buy a meter. [Elektroda, barton21, post #16977523]
How do I safely bridge the relay to check the starter?
On the relay, touch the two large posts together using an insulated tool. Expect a spark. If the starter spins, the relay or control circuit is faulty. If it does not, inspect the starter cable and motor. “Be careful not to weld the screwdriver.” Wear eye protection. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]
Where are the Burgman 400 K1 starter and relay located?
They’re on the left side, in front of the seat area. Remove the left side cover to access the relay and starter connections. This placement lets you trace the thick battery cable to the relay, then the starter. It simplifies both the bulb test and relay bridging. [Elektroda, freerider-hot, post #18422027]
Can the ignition switch be bad if I still hear a relay click?
Hearing the relay generally rules out the ignition switch as the primary fault. Focus on the relay contacts, the starter motor, and the associated wiring. Check for burnt relay contacts, high resistance in the starter lead, or a seized starter. Prioritize visual inspection and basic load tests. [Elektroda, sylweksylwina, post #16977238]
I replaced the relay and still nothing—what should I check next?
Investigate two areas: high‑current cables (battery to relay to starter) and the handlebar start button circuit. Broken strands or corrosion increase resistance and block current. Clean connectors, reseat grounds, and check the button wiring. Bridge the relay posts to separate power path from control path. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]
Any gotchas when using the 12V bulb test?
Yes—clip it correctly. Attach the bulb across the starter feed and a solid ground, not randomly in the harness. Poor clipping gives false results. As one expert warned, “Correctly connect the bulb to the starter.” Secure connections and avoid shorting nearby metal. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16978381]
What simple 3‑step test can isolate a bad starter?
- Clip a 12V bulb from the starter terminal to ground.
- Press the starter button and watch the bulb.
- If it lights yet the motor won’t spin, the starter is the culprit. [Elektroda, barton21, post #16977523]
Is WD‑40 good for electrical connectors on this scooter?
No. Do not rely on WD‑40 for electrical contacts. It is not a proper contact cleaner and can leave residues. Use products designed for electrical connectors instead. Clean, dry, and reseat pins after treatment. This prevents future high‑resistance faults and intermittent no‑crank issues. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19666158]
Someone said cleaning a pin fixed their no‑crank—what did they mean?
They restored a poor connection at a connector pin. After improving contact, the starter worked again. Intermittent or oxidized pins add resistance and block current. Unplug, clean, and reseat suspect connectors along the starter and relay path. This quick fix can save parts costs. [Elektroda, martink66, post #19666020]
What are the two main failure points owners report on this symptom?
Two primary culprits recur: high‑current power cables with poor conductivity, and the handlebar start button or its wiring. Bridge the relay posts to split diagnosis. If it cranks, suspect the control circuit. If not, trace the power path and grounds to the starter. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]
I don’t own a meter—what can I do today?
Try the 12V bulb load check to see if power reaches the starter. It’s a practical, low‑cost workaround until you buy a multimeter. If you cannot perform basic checks, book a mechanic to avoid damage. Document results to speed diagnosis. [Elektroda, barton21, post #16978761]
Does repeated clicking always mean the relay is bad?
No. Repeated clicking often points to a weak battery, not a failed relay. If you hear one solid click, proceed to measure or load‑check voltage at the starter. Address battery health first, then evaluate the relay and wiring. Replace parts only after confirming with a test. [Elektroda, reneeww, post #16978367]
