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Suzuki Burgman 400 K1 - Starter Motor Not Spinning Despite Charged Battery and Audible Relay

miguellk 14205 18
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #1 16977060
    miguellk
    Level 10  
    Hello all,
    My Burgman does not start after a few weeks of parking. Battery charged. A starter relay is heard but the starter motor does not spin.
    I am asking for help in identifying the problem.
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  • #2 16977137
    barton21
    Level 26  
    Check that when the starter relay closes, there is voltage on the wires from the starter
  • #3 16977204
    miguellk
    Level 10  
    I don't have instruments to check it. Until it was left for wintering, everything was fine.
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  • #4 16977209
    sylweksylwina
    Moderator of Computers service  
    If you have nothing to check, the mechanic remains ...
    Clairvoyants are probably not on this forum ...
  • #5 16977227
    miguellk
    Level 10  
    I don't think anything else remains, but I thought it might be something typical. Although he has done well so far.
  • #6 16977238
    sylweksylwina
    Moderator of Computers service  
    The problem with the ignition switch can rather be rejected because the relay is audible. There remains a problem with the relay, starter or wiring ...
  • #7 16977523
    barton21
    Level 26  
    If you don't have a meter, just take an ordinary 12V bulb and connect it to the wires from the starter. Turn the ignition switch and press the starter. If the bulb lights up at this point, the relay and the installation are working and the starter is to blame.
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  • #8 16978367
    reneeww
    Level 12  
    If the relay is ticking for you (that is, if the ticking is constantly - as if it turned off and on, because you did not specify it), then your battery is discharged. Possibly to be replaced. If it is only one cycle, start by measuring the voltage on the starter. Buy a meter, for your needs it is enough for a maximum of PLN 20
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  • #9 16978381
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    barton21 wrote:
    If you don't have a meter, just take an ordinary 12V bulb and connect it to the wires from the starter. Turn the ignition switch and press the starter. If the bulb lights up at this point, the relay and the installation are working and the starter is to blame.


    Correctly connect the bulb to the starter.
  • #10 16978426
    reneeww
    Level 12  
    The meter will have to buy anyway. The bulb will have a hard time having anything else to splash except that there is or is no voltage. These are the things that everyone should have at home.
  • #11 16978761
    barton21
    Level 26  
    That's right, as my colleague wrote above. But if the author does not currently have a measure, I gave him some alternative for a primitive check
  • #12 16980686
    paweld69
    Level 28  
    Short the two thick red wires on the relay, if the starter starts to rotate, it means that the relay needs to be replaced. If it does not turn, you need to look at the starter.
  • #13 16980855
    miguellk
    Level 10  
    Gentlemen, there is a lot going to the service tomorrow. Should help. I will let you know when the diagnosis is made.
  • #14 18027309
    Wojt22
    Level 1  
    Hello. Gentlemen, where are the starter in the burgman and the relay located?
  • #15 18422027
    freerider-hot
    Level 1  
    On the left side in front of the seat.
  • #16 19664873
    martink66
    Level 2  
    A starter relay is heard but the starter motor does not spin.
    I am asking for help in identifying the problem. I briefly checked the starter with the cables. I bought a new starter relay and nothing like a snap
  • #17 19664939
    rafik54321
    Level 30  
    You only have 2 possible reasons.

    1. Starter power cables conduct poorly because they are, for example, broken or tarnished.
    2. The steering wheel button or its cables are poorly conductive or are tarnished. Possibly you have a damaged button itself.

    On the relay you have these 2 screws to which you screw the cable from the battery and the other from the starter. Connect them, for example, with a screwdriver (note! You have to be careful not to "weld" the screwdriver to you). It should turn off right away. If it does not turn, you have a problem in point 1. If it turns, you have a problem in point 2.
  • #18 19666020
    martink66
    Level 2  
    Ok, I have already reached the contact on the pin; it was not sufficient WD 40, and it helped.
  • #19 19666158
    rafik54321
    Level 30  
    WD40 for cables ?! Bad idea. As already these are other preparations for electrical connectors.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Suzuki Burgman 400 K1 that fails to start despite a charged battery and an audible starter relay. Users suggest various troubleshooting steps, including checking for voltage at the starter motor, using a 12V bulb for testing, and examining the starter relay and wiring for faults. Some recommend shorting the relay wires to determine if the relay is faulty, while others mention potential issues with the ignition switch or starter power cables. A user eventually resolves the issue by cleaning a contact with WD-40, although this solution is debated regarding its appropriateness for electrical connections.

FAQ

TL;DR: On a Burgman 400 that clicks but won’t crank, owners report 2 root causes—“You only have 2 possible reasons”: bad power cables or the start‑button circuit. Use a 12V bulb or bridge the relay to pinpoint the fault before replacing parts. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps Burgman 400 K1 riders quickly isolate no‑crank faults without guesswork or wasted parts.

Quick Facts

My Burgman 400 K1 clicks but won’t start—what’s the likely cause?

If you hear the relay, the ignition switch is typically fine. Suspects are the relay itself, the starter motor, or wiring. Check power delivery to the starter and the main grounds. Corrosion or loose connections can block current. Inspect battery terminals and the starter cable lug. Clean and tighten before buying parts. [Elektroda, sylweksylwina, post #16977238]

The relay ticks rapidly—could my battery still be weak?

Yes. Rapid, repetitive clicking indicates low battery voltage under load. A single click suggests moving to voltage checks at the starter. Recharge and load‑test the battery, then try again. If it still clicks rapidly, measure voltage drop while pressing the starter. Replace the battery if it sags hard. [Elektroda, reneeww, post #16978367]

How do I test the relay/starter without a multimeter?

Use a 12V bulb as a simple load. Clip one lead to the starter feed and the other to ground. Press the starter. If the bulb lights, the relay and wiring supply power; the starter is suspect. If it does not light, the issue is upstream. This quick check helps before you buy a meter. [Elektroda, barton21, post #16977523]

How do I safely bridge the relay to check the starter?

On the relay, touch the two large posts together using an insulated tool. Expect a spark. If the starter spins, the relay or control circuit is faulty. If it does not, inspect the starter cable and motor. “Be careful not to weld the screwdriver.” Wear eye protection. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]

Where are the Burgman 400 K1 starter and relay located?

They’re on the left side, in front of the seat area. Remove the left side cover to access the relay and starter connections. This placement lets you trace the thick battery cable to the relay, then the starter. It simplifies both the bulb test and relay bridging. [Elektroda, freerider-hot, post #18422027]

Can the ignition switch be bad if I still hear a relay click?

Hearing the relay generally rules out the ignition switch as the primary fault. Focus on the relay contacts, the starter motor, and the associated wiring. Check for burnt relay contacts, high resistance in the starter lead, or a seized starter. Prioritize visual inspection and basic load tests. [Elektroda, sylweksylwina, post #16977238]

I replaced the relay and still nothing—what should I check next?

Investigate two areas: high‑current cables (battery to relay to starter) and the handlebar start button circuit. Broken strands or corrosion increase resistance and block current. Clean connectors, reseat grounds, and check the button wiring. Bridge the relay posts to separate power path from control path. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]

Any gotchas when using the 12V bulb test?

Yes—clip it correctly. Attach the bulb across the starter feed and a solid ground, not randomly in the harness. Poor clipping gives false results. As one expert warned, “Correctly connect the bulb to the starter.” Secure connections and avoid shorting nearby metal. [Elektroda, Strumien swiadomosci swia, post #16978381]

What simple 3‑step test can isolate a bad starter?

  1. Clip a 12V bulb from the starter terminal to ground.
  2. Press the starter button and watch the bulb.
  3. If it lights yet the motor won’t spin, the starter is the culprit. [Elektroda, barton21, post #16977523]

Is WD‑40 good for electrical connectors on this scooter?

No. Do not rely on WD‑40 for electrical contacts. It is not a proper contact cleaner and can leave residues. Use products designed for electrical connectors instead. Clean, dry, and reseat pins after treatment. This prevents future high‑resistance faults and intermittent no‑crank issues. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19666158]

Someone said cleaning a pin fixed their no‑crank—what did they mean?

They restored a poor connection at a connector pin. After improving contact, the starter worked again. Intermittent or oxidized pins add resistance and block current. Unplug, clean, and reseat suspect connectors along the starter and relay path. This quick fix can save parts costs. [Elektroda, martink66, post #19666020]

What are the two main failure points owners report on this symptom?

Two primary culprits recur: high‑current power cables with poor conductivity, and the handlebar start button or its wiring. Bridge the relay posts to split diagnosis. If it cranks, suspect the control circuit. If not, trace the power path and grounds to the starter. [Elektroda, rafik54321, post #19664939]

I don’t own a meter—what can I do today?

Try the 12V bulb load check to see if power reaches the starter. It’s a practical, low‑cost workaround until you buy a multimeter. If you cannot perform basic checks, book a mechanic to avoid damage. Document results to speed diagnosis. [Elektroda, barton21, post #16978761]

Does repeated clicking always mean the relay is bad?

No. Repeated clicking often points to a weak battery, not a failed relay. If you hear one solid click, proceed to measure or load‑check voltage at the starter. Address battery health first, then evaluate the relay and wiring. Replace parts only after confirming with a test. [Elektroda, reneeww, post #16978367]
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