Flush-mounted toilet frame for a wall made of aerated concrete

Hello. Please share your experiences regarding the installation of a flush-mounted frame in a wall made of aerated concrete. I have a rather narrow bathroom, and I would like the bowl to hang flush with the wall, i.e. there should be no "shelf". I know that heavy-duty racks are used for this purpose, but I have not found any with a thickness of less than 10 cm. The point is that the toilet will hang on a load-bearing wall with a thickness of 24 cm and I would like to forge as little as possible in it. Has anyone used a frame for light construction (there are so-called slim with a thickness of only 8 cm) for installation in a wall recess?

Hello, I've had one with a wheel for 5 years, the whole set. Similar problems small bathroom. I don't see any problems. A friend has the same set - failure. The difference in assembly professionals - I do not have the cheapest professional - he has the most important price. And there are effects. Talk to the installation team. 8 cm deep will there be no problem with the drain? Let them speak.

There will be no problem with the drain - it is behind the wall in the garage. I do not know if I have not outlined the problem well, so I will write again: I am going to carve a niche in the wall of 24 cm of aerated concrete to the depth of the thinnest frame (8 cm) for lightweight construction and insert it in this niche (flush with the wall). Has anyone done that?
PS There are no professionals - I do it myself.
Regards

Kons18 wrote:

Hello. Please share your experiences regarding the installation of a flush-mounted frame in a wall made of aerated concrete.

I'm a bit different. I have a built-in cistern in a similar way and it is very practical until it works well. The stairs start as something inside collapses and access is illusory. At present, I would not opt for such a solution.

hello,

gimak wrote:

...and access is illusory.

If you have a decent, company-owned frame, you can replace the entire contents of the cistern through the hole for the button, others also only with greater problems.

The Tece company produces 8 cm thick frames, they are wider but thinner, e.g.
https://www.termicotychy.pl/stelaz-podtynkowy...MIoZWBqdPk3AIVBqmaCh2x2AmCEAQYASABEgKQDPD_BwE

As for me, a regular frame will also work for such a structure.
The issue of developing a method of building the face of the frame. In fact, it would be enough to cover the entire wall with a plasterboard, glued to the wall and screwed to the frame structure.

No problem with building in the wall. You forge the recess depending on the thickness of the frame and assemble it as follows:
- if you have a plastered wall and a plasterboard will no longer be placed on it, you must mount it so that the face of the frame is deeper than the face of the wall by 2.5 cm, because then you cut 2 plasterboards to the size of the recess, screw them to the frame and you have an even wall to be tiled . There are to be two plasterboards on the frame, not one
- if there are to be plasterboards on the wall, you must first determine where the face of this board will be and mount the frame deeper by about 2.5 cm, then you cut one board to the size of the recess and screw it to the frame, and cover the whole with the wall with the other. there must be no free space between the plates.
- you fasten the frame solidly, in the recess it is best to use the upper handles on the pins drilled to the other side of the wall. I also did it this way: at the top of the frame I screwed a piece of a 50x30 closed profile horizontally so that it protruded on both sides by about 15 cm, I forged grooves under it in the wall and after inserting the frame into the wall and setting the vertical, horizontal, depth, cement CX 5 I fastened these protruding ends of the profile in the wall. That's what I did when it was impossible to put a pin through a wall or in a wall made of ceramics where each expansion bolt does not hold.

Thank you all for your advice and suggestions. I managed to buy a narrow (8 cm) rack for heavy construction, i.e. for walling in the Cersanit Slim&Silent model. I will be mounting it today. If I have time, I'll try to report how it turned out.
Regards.

For anchoring heavy things, it is worth using a threaded rod glued onto a two-component anchoring resin instead of pins.
The resin is in such tubes as silicone, there are 2 components in the tube, a disposable mixer is screwed on it.
If the wall has voids, a mesh sleeve is inserted into the opening, resin is introduced into it, and then the rod is embedded in it.
If it is aerated concrete, it is worth "breaking" the hole so that it has the shape of a cone, with the top facing the face of the wall. Then the fixation will be stronger.
Before anchoring, the hole should be thoroughly cleaned of dust.

paul0 wrote:

Before anchoring, the hole should be thoroughly cleaned of dust.

[quote="paul0"]
BLOW OUT, of course, not with your mouth, but it will force all the dust out. You will always find some diving center and get compressed air with the right regulator.

It does not have to be a diving air cylinder.
Even a compressor with a 24l tank is enough
and a blow gun with a long nozzle.
Blow it out, brush it clean and blow it out again.

Kons18 wrote:

I intend to carve a niche in the wall of 24 cm of aerated concrete to the depth of the thinnest frame (8 cm) for light construction and insert it into this niche (flush with the wall). Has anyone done that?

I did exactly the same, cellular concrete 24 cm, cut out a niche for the cistern (Geberit Duofix 12 cm deep) and cover it with fermacell gypsum fiber board. It looks like that on the surface of the wall there is only a flush button and a suspended bowl, no walls, faults, depressions. The cistern has been operating without failure for about 10 years, access to its fittings is sufficient. Before laying the plate covering the cistern, all empty spaces were filled with mineral wool in order to dampen the noise of the cistern operation.

The resin is absolutely ok, I liked the Ceresit CX5 mounting cement. Sets in 3 - 5 minutes. It can be used in a liquid form, I installed the railing pipes in the holes drilled in the floor and, after inserting the pipes, I poured CX 5 diluted into a liquid mass into the remaining gap. After 5 minutes, it's not moving. Today it's been over 8 years and it won't budge. I'm not advocating, just letting you know that it is.

Kons18 wrote:

There will be no problem with the drain - it is behind the wall in the garage.

It's the perfect situation. Mount the bowl on pins directly to the wall and place the cistern on the side of the garage.

William Bonawentura wrote:

Kons18 wrote:

There will be no problem with the drain - it is behind the wall in the garage.

It's the perfect situation. Mount the bowl on pins directly to the wall and place the cistern on the side of the garage.

I did something similar. Frame for light construction in an 8 cm wall. From the side of the bathroom, the wall was even, on the other side there was a boiler room and there the frame protruded from the wall. The roofer built it there with a plasterboard and covered it with tiles. It turned out ok.