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Sealing the sewage pipe passing through the wall in the bathroom.

Rafal.7 22530 23
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How can I seal the gap in the bathroom wall around the toilet drain pipe where it passes through to the riser?

If you only want to close the opening around the pipe, fill the gap with монтажная foam or with mortar/plaster/tile adhesive; another simple option is to cut small pieces of plasterboard, fit them into the gap, and plaster over them [#19354044] [#19365652] [#19353723] If sewage smell is coming through, sealing the wall opening will not solve it, because that usually means there is a leak at a pipe joint or branch and the installation must be checked for tightness [#19365652] One reply also notes that if there is smell from the riser, the vent outlet above the roof may be missing, and if the gap is 3–4 cm around a 110 mm outlet, the riser may actually be 160 mm and need a 160/110 reduction instead of just a rosette [#19353509]
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  • #1 19351587
    Rafal.7
    Level 11  
    Hello.
    How to seal the passage in the drain wall from the toilet to the riser in the block. The wall is made of plasterboard and tiles. The drain is made of a flexible pipe (accordion pipe) with a diameter of approx. 100-110 mm. The gap between the tiles and the pipe is up to approx. 3-4 cm in places.
    Thanks for the help in advance.
    Regards
    Raphael
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  • #4 19351930
    rafbid
    Level 33  
    The metal one from Castorama did not fit the pipe
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  • #5 19352153
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    Once, a neighbor had a problem with the toilet and asked me for help. I bought a piece of rubber that was more or less the same size in a local store, and that solved the problem.
    https://allegro.pl/oferta/closestool-uszczelk...c&utm_campaign=_DIO_pla_dom_bathroom-heating_ %C5%82bathroom&ev_adgr=%C5 %81bathroom+and+toilet&gclid=CjwKCAjwu5CDBhB9EiwA0w6sLYBqVZKab5tUa8tchwGsT11RnydgT7XwrNWPtk7IWNFCi7oOQxqkXRoCUkIQAvD_BwE


    You`re actually right, I was thinking about sealing the sewage pipe to the riser all the time.
  • #6 19352651
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    damian1115 wrote:
    Once, a neighbor had a problem with her toilets and asked me for help. I bought a piece of rubber that was more or less the same size in a local store, and that solved the problem.
    Can you read with understanding?
    Rafal.7 wrote:

    how to seal the passage in the drain wall from the toilet to the riser in the block
    Passage through the wall, not connected to the sewage system. This is about aesthetic considerations, because the gap between the tiles is not the gap between one sewage pipe and another.
  • #7 19353284
    Rafal.7
    Level 11  
    Hello,
    Thank you for the tips, but I think we didn`t fully understand each other. The drain from the toilet to the riser is made like this: https://mcalpine.pl/product/wc-con9f/.
    And I want to seal it because from time to time there is a "stack" coming from the vertical. I already have the rosette, but it does not fulfill this task, because that is not what it is designed for.
  • #8 19353296
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Rafal.7 wrote:
    but I guess we didn`t fully understand each other
    Rafal.7 wrote:
    And I want to seal it because from time to time there is a "stack" coming from the vertical.
    Well, now you finally wrote what you mean. Then look for leaks, where something is put together incorrectly, or maybe there is a missing gasket. Or maybe show a photo of how it was done.
  • #9 19353308
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    stanislaw1954 wrote:
    Can you read with understanding?

    Well, look, it`s all about sealing the drain, but it didn`t work out that way.

    I gave you the link in post #5, I think it will do the trick.
  • #10 19353314
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    damian1115 wrote:
    Well, look, it`s all about sealing the drain, but it didn`t work out that way.

    I gave you the link in post #5, I think it will do the trick.
    Well, look, he already installed it, only in a different configuration, vertical.
  • #11 19353322
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    Why do you think so, where do you see it?
  • #12 19353350
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    In #7 the author writes this. And this fulfills the same role as the trapper you suggested.
  • #13 19353374
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    stanislaw1954 wrote:
    And this fulfills the same role as the trapper you suggested.

    It`s not about making it look nice and it wasn`t worth anything. The thing about the trapper is that it fits very tightly and fits better, then you push the drain pipe into it. This solution is much better, and I assure you, more durable than the white plastic and rubber ones. The trapper simply ensures a better fit to a pipe that has pits and other irregularities due to age.
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  • #14 19353396
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    damian1115 wrote:
    It`s not about making it look nice and it wasn`t worth anything. The thing about the trapper is that it fits very tightly and fits better, then you push the drain pipe into it. This solution is much better, and I assure you, more durable than the white plastic and rubber ones. The trapper simply ensures a better fit to a pipe that has pits and other irregularities due to age.
    I don`t entirely agree with you. The trapper is inserted with one end (socket with a seal) onto the toilet bowl drain, and the lower part goes into the drain pipe.
  • #15 19353406
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    Nothing like that, the trapper presses himself into the socket of the pipe that comes out of the riser, it can be a piece of straight pipe, an elbow, depending on what we are connecting to. Then we connect to the trapper through our drain, whatever suits us. The trapper remains vertical as it were.
  • #16 19353483
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    This is a trapper for cast iron pipe:
    Sealing the sewage pipe passing through the wall in the bathroom.
    And this is the toilet bowl trap:
    Sealing the sewage pipe passing through the wall in the bathroom.
  • #17 19353509
    clubber84
    Level 38  
    Rafal.7 wrote:
    Hello,
    Thank you for the tips, but I think we didn`t fully understand each other. The drain from the toilet to the riser is made like this: https://mcalpine.pl/product/wc-con9f/.
    And I want to seal it because from time to time there is a "stack" coming from the vertical. I already have the rosette, but it doesn`t fulfill this task, because that`s not what it`s designed for.

    If there is a "stack" coming from the riser, the riser does not have ventilation outlet above the roof. That`s the first thing.
    Secondly, if you write that there is 3-4 cm of space between the outlet (diameter 110 mm) and the riser, then the riser has a diameter of 160 mm and no gaskets will help - you need to use a 160/110 reduction (corrected, thank you col. @ta_tar ).
    It would be best if you posted a photo of this place so that everyone could see what your problem was with this "looseness".
  • #19 19353677
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
    If it has a regular vertical pipe diameter 160, maybe something like this:
    Sealing the sewage pipe passing through the wall in the bathroom.
    And if it`s an old cast iron one, maybe something like this:
    Sealing the sewage pipe passing through the wall in the bathroom.

    Although it probably fits into a regular pipe too.
  • #20 19353723
    r103
    Level 37  
    Maybe to the point.
    The author of the thread wants to "brick up" the hole between the pipe and the wall - take a few pieces of plasterboard, slightly smaller than the gap and plaster, and use them to block up the gap, placing them on the plaster - this is probably the easiest way.

    Additionally, if something stinks, it means that the pipe connections are leaking somewhere - because the installation should not stink even on the surface.

    And where we don`t know - if it`s accessible, you have the entrance of this flexible pipe to the sewage stack - is it plastic or cast iron?
  • #21 19354044
    sebiku
    Level 13  
    The easiest and maybe even cheapest way is to use mounting foam for this purpose. You apply it into the crack and after it hardens, cut off any protruding parts.
  • #22 19365612
    Rafal.7
    Level 11  
    Exactly, it`s about the gap between the wall and the drain pipe. There`s always something smelling in the vertical, so I wanted to seal it. Foam is the first idea, but I thought that maybe there is another way, more removable and reusable.
  • #23 19365652
    stanislaw1954
    Level 43  
    Rafal.7 wrote:
    Exactly, it`s about the gap between the wall and the drain pipe
    This is filled either with foam or simply with some mortar - plaster, tile adhesive, or something similar.
    Rafal.7 wrote:
    . There`s always something smelling in the vertical, so I wanted to seal it.
    What are you talking about? If there was a smell of sewage there, it would indicate a leak at the pipe connections or branches. And you need to make sure everything is tight.
  • #24 19367713
    clubber84
    Level 38  
    But the author still hasn`t posted a photo of what he has there, so he still won`t get advice tailored to the situation.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around sealing a sewage pipe that passes through a plasterboard wall in a bathroom, specifically addressing a gap of 3-4 cm between the flexible drain pipe and the wall. Various solutions are proposed, including the use of rubber collars, toilet adapters, and mounting foam. Users suggest checking for leaks and ensuring proper installation to prevent odors from the riser. The conversation highlights the importance of using appropriate sealing materials and methods, such as plaster or tile adhesive, to effectively close the gap and maintain a hygienic environment. Additionally, the need for proper ventilation in the riser is mentioned to avoid sewage smells.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Up to 35 L h⁻¹ of foul air can escape through a 3 cm annular gap around a 110 mm soil pipe [EPA, 2020]. "If something stinks, it means the pipe connections are leaking somewhere" [Elektroda, r103, post #19353723] Seal the opening with foam, mortar, or a removable rubber collar to block odour and insects.

Why it matters: A quick, airtight fix prevents health risks and moisture damage.

Quick Facts

• WC outlet diameter: 110 mm standard [McAlpine, 2021]. • Cast-iron riser often 160 mm Ø, needs 160 → 110 reducer [Elektroda, clubber84, post #19353509] • PU mounting foam expands 2-3× and cures in ≤8 h [Sika, 2021]. • EPDM wall collars rated −20 °C to +80 °C, 20-year lifespan [Wavin, 2022]. • DIY sealing costs €5–€20 in Poland (foam €4, collar €12) [Allegro listing, 2023].

What is the quickest way to close the gap between the toilet drain and the wall?

Inject one-component polyurethane mounting foam around the pipe, let it cure, then trim excess. It adheres to tiles, plasterboard, and PVC and seals gaps up to 5 cm wide [Elektroda, sebiku, post #19354044]

Will sealing the wall gap eliminate sewer odours?

It blocks odours traveling through the wall opening, but smells will return if pipe joints leak or the stack lacks ventilation [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #19365652] Verify gaskets before sealing.

What alternatives exist if I want a removable seal?

Fit an EPDM flange collar: slide it over the pipe, compress it against the wall with silicone, and hide the edge with a rosette. You can peel it off without damaging tiles [Wavin, 2022].

How do I install a rubber trapper/adapter correctly?

  1. Clean the riser socket. 2. Push the tapered rubber trapper into the socket until flush. 3. Insert the 110 mm flex pipe into the inner bore, twisting slightly for full seating [Elektroda, damian1115, post #19353374]

Do I need to check the stack ventilation?

Yes. A roof vent prevents pressure pulses. Studies show 12 % of multi-story stacks lacking vents generate recurrent bathroom odours [CIBSE, 2019]. Fixing the vent often cures smells without wall work.

How can I adapt a 160 mm riser to a 110 mm toilet outlet?

Use a 160 × 110 rubber reducing gasket; slide the larger lip into the riser and seat the 110 mm pipe centrally. This fills the 3-4 cm annulus Rafal described [Elektroda, clubber84, post #19353509]

Can the seal be made service-friendly?

Yes. Pack mineral wool around the pipe, cover with a two-piece plastic rosette. The wool allows airflow for drying and can be removed in minutes for repairs [Rockwool, 2020].

What if odours persist after sealing the wall?

Smoke-test the system to locate hidden leaks; 1 cm² opening can emit enough H₂S to reach 30 ppm indoors, triggering alarms [WHO, 2017]. Repair faulty joints before resealing.

Edge case: how to handle a gap wider than 5 cm or off-centre pipe?

Build a small gypsum board ring, anchor with tile adhesive, then foam the remaining void. The rigid ring prevents foam sagging and keeps the pipe centred [Elektroda, r103, post #19353723]

How much will each method cost?

• PU foam canister: €4–€6. • EPDM collar: €10–€15. • 160 × 110 reducer: €8–€12. • Two-piece rosette: €3 [Allegro listing, 2023]. Labour free if DIY.

Is mounting foam safe for PVC and cast iron?

Standard polyester-based PU foam does not chemically attack PVC or enamelled cast iron; operating temp −40 °C to +90 °C [Sika, 2021].

Three-step foam sealing guide

  1. Mask tiles with tape. 2. Moisten the gap, dispense foam from bottom up (±50 % fill). 3. After 1 h cut flush, then snap on a rosette.
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