What solutions do you have for mounting cameras on the facade?

Present your solutions for mounting cameras on polystyrene (facade).
I often have this problem with my clients and I don't know how to deal with it.

I don't know what the problem is, after all, polystyrene pins are e.g. 180mm x 10mm or 160mm x 8mm.

You can also try on Driva pins if the camera isn't too heavy. But here you only get assembly to the plaster and polystyrene layer.

On a polystyrene substrate, I think, because only polystyrene, there is an option, but a weak one. Long pins and a problem. What is your problem specifically?

He often mounts CDR 805 Q cameras from Vidicon, they are quite heavy. I used ordinary long pins, but it all flies like .... These plastics screwed into polystyrene would do the trick, but with the settings, you also like to do it: /

Get interested in Fischer and their solutions for various substrates, they are expensive, but they are not for mass production like putting plastic trays ;-)

Greetings.

There are two ways to make it stick as commanded by God.
1) You cut out a place for a wooden block in the foam, which you will cover with a handle, fasten it with long pins and screw the handle from the camera to the block. If the brick fits well, it looks and takes care of ... it stays on.
2) You take a piece of sheet metal or plexiglass and make something like a pad for the entire camera mount, attach the mount with normally long pins with such a pad and the surface of your pad distributes the pressure over a larger area of the facade. The larger the surface area, the more stable it is.
Both solutions are stable and durable, but have an impact on the as-built aesthetics. However, I recommend option 1.

rokycky wrote:

1) You cut out a place for a wooden block in the foam, which you will cover with a handle, fasten it with long pins and screw the handle from the camera to the block.

Correct me if I misunderstand something (I expanded your idea with details that I can guess):
you cut out a place for a block in polystyrene, drill holes in the block (taking care not to duplicate their position with the holes of the camera holder), then mark points on the wall through these holes and drill holes for pegs. You drive the pegs into the wall, fasten the block with a long screw and fasten the camera to the block with the screws. This is what it looks like?

This is not an idea, but a practical solution that is normally used.
Holes can overlap if you have properly selected long pins / bolts.
Go to the store and buy suitable pegs, 16, 18 or more cm long.

In my opinion, the pins do not have to be that long. After all, you can drill a hole with a thinner drill, and with a thicker one, e.g. halfway - to gradate the hole.

Generally, it's not about the length of the pins, but the length of the screw. After all, we will not use one peg to push the hole in the wall and the block apart.

Buddy Jacek, read my post again and think about what you wrote. If you don't understand, I can even draw it for you ...

I propose long dowels, depending on the thickness of the polystyrene and the wall hidden under it. For example, 180X12 fits perfectly under a ten (100mm) polystyrene, when the insulation thickness (polystyrene + mesh + plaster + adhesives) is sometimes even 12 cm. The flanged pins are made of stiff plastic, thanks to their large diameter, they are stiff and when tightened they firmly hold the camera housing and it does not press too much on the facade. 4 such pegs in most cases withstand my weight of 85 kg

LoLek85 wrote:

Buddy Jacek, read my post again and think about what you wrote. If you don't understand, I can even draw it for you ...

Your post was obvious, I use such drills myself, sometimes in camera housings, when I want to screw them with a screw with a thicker head to hide in the hole. I only questioned the sense of using long pins in the case of a solution with a wooden block.

Then I misunderstood you, sorry.

I extend the screws by the length of the polystyrene.

kkknc wrote:

I extend the screws by the length of the polystyrene.

For what purpose, then, such a long peg? Probably half the shorter length would keep the camera stable even on such a long screw.

Jacek28 wrote:

kkknc wrote:

I extend the screws by the length of the polystyrene.

For what purpose, then, such a long peg? Probably half the shorter length would keep the camera even on such a long screw.

To understand this, you need to know the structure of an expansion plug and the principle of its operation. Just don't answer that you know or you wouldn't ask that question above. The longer screw in the photo is just extended. Alternatively, I insert anchors and for this I buy a threaded rod which I shorten on the spot to the appropriate size. For small contact surfaces and structures exposed to wind, I put tubes on the screws. Thanks to this, the structure rests against the wall and you do not crease the polystyrene on which the plaster is laid, which, when screwed too tight, likes to crack. And then it falls off.

kkknc wrote:

To understand this, you need to know the structure of an expansion plug and the principle of its operation. Just don't answer that you know or you wouldn't ask that question above.

It is not I who do not know the structure of the peg, but rather you did not understand the question. The question of the long screw is clear - it must reach both the pin and the polystyrene above it. In my opinion, a shorter pin (as A in the picture) would suffice and I do not see the need for a long pin (B). As for the tubes, it is a proven solution and I even installed a satellite dish this way with a very good effect (it has survived many storms).

I see that, however, you do not know the construction of the peg and how it works. Look at the first picture, the closer to the end of the wheel, the smaller the space, so the further you screw the screw, the more the pin will expand and, what is important, the greater length, which ensures its proper operation.
As you can see in this photo.

The pin you see is starting to catch the first coils when it protrudes, it's about 100mm, so it won't provide a good and secure fit. Of course, the plug can be pulled out, but then there is a danger that it will begin to expand before it enters the wall and its further screwing will cause it to slide out of the hole and not properly expand or twist. Even if it expands in the wall, it will not only stick to a certain part, so it will not achieve full strength.

You also need to know what the wall is, the worst case is ytong.

Hello!
Why bother?
The polystyrene screws are quite enough.

eworks wrote:

Get interested in Fischer and their solutions for various substrates, they are expensive, but they are not for mass production like putting plastic trays ;-)

Greetings.

Hi!

kkknc wrote:

I see that, however, you do not know the construction of the peg and how it works.

I can see that it was you who did not understand despite the drawing I posted. I will put it as simply as I can: for the camera, such a short blue pin would be enough, as you put in the photo, but with the long screw as shown in the previous photo with a white pin. And when it comes to dowels, not all of them work the way you illustrated, and there are also some that tighten lengthwise when a screw is inserted, such as plasterboard dowels.

sharp wrote:

Only this "short pin with a long screw" will push the handle into the polystyrene as the screw is screwed in - there is no "limiter", which is the collar of the long pin.
Especially if the spacing of the holes in the holder is quite small.

Porotherm and various other hollow bricks are also annoying.

As for pressing into polystyrene, it will be the same in the case of a long dowel that will hide the whole into the wall (that's why I cut the pipes that rest against the wall), and this is how I understood my colleague kkknc, since he wrote that he extends the screw by the thickness of polystyrene, the pin is hidden in wall. Therefore, in a situation where the entire dowel is hidden in the wall, I do not see the need to use such a length and I say (I have tested it on much heavier objects than the camera) that a much shorter dowel is enough, if the wall material is full, because if, for example, a block is actually such a longer pin would be better, but there are other solutions.

Personally, I have been using Patexa chemical anchors in such situations for a long time.
Especially in situations when it needs to be embedded in a porotherm block or other "hole".

I, on the other hand, use steel threaded rods + appropriate plastic pins + spacers made of plastic water pipes.
I drill a hole in the polystyrene with a diameter equal to the outer diameter of the plastic pipe. I drill a hole in the wall for a plastic dowel. I cut a piece of the threaded rod and one end of the blade so that it can easily be screwed into the pin and push it apart. I put some mounting foam in, then push a plastic tube cut to the thickness of polystyrene so that it presses the end of the pin, and the other end is a distance for the element being mounted. A little foam inside the tube and screw the rod in. The assembly foam seals any gaps against water. I put the washer and nut on and press the tube against the wall and the stud. The protruding end of the rod allows the installation of any holders that have holes through and it is possible to screw them with nuts. If this is not possible, then first I put a piece of a metal plate or contour (such as is used in carpentry) and on this element I assemble what I have to install using self-drilling screws. The mounted brackets do not touch the facade but are offset a few mm, essentially the thickness of the washer and nut. In this way, you can fill any weight, even several dozen or several hundred kg, e.g. LED screens, billboards, antennas, of course by selecting the appropriate rod diameter and the appropriate thickness and length of wall plugs, and by selecting the number and spacing of such fasteners. I install the highest loads with such rods, shooting right through the wall and fastening with nuts and washers on the other side, hiding the washers and nuts in the plaster.

Instead of the distance sleeves described by my colleague Plumpi, I used self-locking nuts with wider washers.

In order not to assume a new topic, I reheat the cutlet. Do you have any interesting patent for the installation of cameras on polystyrene + brick? As for ordinary cameras, the problem was solved at worst by a threaded rod, often through. However, the problem is with the domes, because the nut will not fit into the housing. I use 8x16 quick assembly plugs (grinds the heads because they do not fit), I put some low-pressure assembly foam into the drilled hole. However, this is not always an effective solution and quite time-consuming - in the hole, the foam hardens for a long time, sometimes it pushes the pin out. In addition, the applicator of the gun does not go into the 8mm hole, so you can apply when the polystyrene is about to end.

SM pins and low pressure foam ?? I admire the invention, but I do not push such combinations to my clients. What about attempts to break / devastate the camera? What is the durability of this ??
A solution for domestic use in small villages (my subtle opinion).
By the way, if you grind the heads of the studs, how then do you disassemble the camera in the event of a failure?

As for solving the problem, a good patent is what a colleague of Rokycki wrote, namely a galvanized metal sheet (e.g. a wood fastener of appropriate dimensions) fixed with long pins to what is under the polystyrene (if increased strength is required - chemical anchors).
To this plate I screw the camera / holder with appropriate short screws / bolts which are much easier to choose.

extremeee wrote:

SM pins and low pressure foam ?? I admire the invention, but I do not push such combinations to my clients. What about attempts to break / devastate the camera? What is the durability of this ??

Much better than on typical styrofoam pins - if you catch the foam in the block, you will not tear it off with one hand. Installation in the hall at a height of about 6m.

extremeee wrote:

By the way, if you grind the heads of the studs, how then do you disassemble the camera in the event of a failure?

I grind the heads of the screws to fit in the holes of the handle.