Best Surface for 2x4m Shed with Wood Storage & Chopping: Concrete Screed vs Paving Stones Thickness

Hello,
The shed is already standing, I have to choose the surface (2x4 m). There will be a wood shed under the shed. There will also be a block on which I will chop the wood. And now a question of this type - you know, I chop various twigs, sticks, but also thick pieces. If you fart with all your might with an ax, the floor can feel it. He doesn't want it to crack. If I choose a paving stone, how thick is it? 8, 10cm? or maybe a 16 cm paving stone?
And if a concrete screed, I wonder how thick this screed would have to be? 8cm? 10cm? How many bags of cement would I need for such an area of 2x4 m? How much sand, how much aggregate?
What surface do you think would be best for this application?

I have a concrete cube in the workshop, as well as concrete about 10-12 cm (medium quality - practically without gravel but slightly reinforced), and earlier also a ceiling one with thick gravel.
Sometimes the hammers will fall, the jacks are put under, sometimes something will stick out, i.e. in order from the best:
1. The best concrete from the gravel pit (I think I have B10) but it is the most expensive
2. 10 cm cube, sometimes I knock with a hammer through a different metal, nothing has ever chipped, but it is really well laid (dry concrete 10 cm underneath and then sand, everything was done with a compactor - the world champion put it in my opinion - anyway, I watched him do it)
3. Concrete / screed 12 cm slightly reinforced (there is almost no gravel) - it's the worst here, sometimes something will chip off superficially, until priming and painting with chlorinated rubber, it dusted terribly. The cheapest version.

In my time, when I still needed to chop wood, I scrapped a steel plate about 50x50 cm thick, probably five centimeters. Under the stump, of course. As for your world, it's just the Cube. Aesthetic and durable.

Make the cubes thicker on a base of sand and cement 1:4 or even 1:5.
Thicken, of course.
Advantages:
- never dust
- impact resistant
- under the stump it is always easy to correct (sprinkle);

I have a 10cm skinny and an 8cm cube in the workshop, and I make trucks there. A phaseless cube so that it can be driven with a pallet truck and easier to clean.

ziemek56 wrote:

sand mixed with cement

A waste of cement once you mix it properly.

ociz wrote:

so that it can be driven with a pallet truck and easier to clean.

Rightly. I use "upside down" and I don't have phases anymore

jajuń wrote:

If I choose a paving stone, how thick is it? 8, 10cm? or maybe a 16 cm paving stone?
And if the concrete screed,

\

Concrete screed is the best.
I have a workshop with a concrete screed, nothing will happen if it doesn't fall down.

I have a concrete pavement (about 15m to the entrance of the house). Thickness over 30 cm, that's how well I serve.
I can provide evidence (in the form of photos) to the doubters.
There are no chips, cracks and lasts over 30 years.

Once again, the best (only solidly made) spout will do the job.

As I wrote earlier, such a concrete screed is expensive. I know that such concrete (with gravel) made of gravel can be beaten with a hammer and nothing.
All right the cube is cheaper and not worse in most cases. The author still wants to knock through a wooden block, I think that damage to the ground is harmless to him.

Jarosx9 wrote:

such a concrete screed is expensive. I know that such concrete (with gravel) made of pear can be hammered and nothing.

Self-made, with own concrete mixer.
Although it is not a cheap thing, but if it is to last 30 years (as with me) it is definitely worth it.

Good concrete (old paving slabs, curbs) is much more than 30 years old. I have the ones that my grandfather put when I was little (I don't remember the moment) and they are actually not very worn now, and I'm almost 40 years old.
Anyway, my 10-year-old cube next to it also does not have any major signs of wear - literally in two places where water drips from the gutter there are delicate damages of 3mm.

jajuń wrote:

There will be a wood shed under the shed. There will also be a block on which I will chop the wood.

I think that's the end of the topic.
He wanted a colleague's advice and he certainly got it.
And that he is a layman - he has the right - that's what forums are for, Who asks does not go astray.

Rezystor240 wrote:

if it is to last 30 years

What if there isn't? The cube is bored, it can be easily removed, low-grade concrete is easy to hammer, and removing yours will not be cheap.

ociz wrote:

What if there isn't? The cube is bored, it can be easily removed, low-grade concrete is easy to hammer, and removing yours will not be cheap.

Of course, the cube can be nicely dismantled, and, for example, put a new one.

Low-grade concrete is easy to hammer, but easily damaged. It cracks, it crumbles...

Forging concrete, which I described, is certainly not an easy task.
But just before choosing a substrate, you can determine whether it will be temporary, long-term and what is the expected fund. And choose based on that.

it can look a bit from the material side

edging 12 pcs * 12/pcs = approx. PLN 150
cube 8m2 * approx. 35/m = approx. PLN 280
cement + sand for the bedding = about PLN 50
total cost about PLN 450-500

1m3 of pear concrete costs about PLN 200-300, where you will pour a 12cm thick layer of it
reinforcing mesh fi4 8m2 * approx. PLN 10/m2 - PLN 80
construction foil about PLN 20
optional OSB board for formwork approx. PLN 150

PS in the place of the block you can pour a little thicker

marcinlkr wrote:

PS in the place of the block you can pour a little thicker

If he wants to move the block like this 1 m, it will be better for him.
What then? It will not move, because the screed is thinner.

Thanks for your response! To be honest, I was also leaning towards cobblestones. I'm still thinking about the foundation. A colleague @ziemek56 wrote that sand and cement in proportions of 1:4 or 1:5 and thicken it. The question now is what should be the thickness of this foundation? How to apply it? Smaller layers and compact, then the next layer compact again, until we reach the height of this underlay we are interested in?
I do not have a professional compactor, is a rammer with a bottom in the shape of a wide block enough? And you know how to hand hit from top to bottom - does that make sense? I saw something like this on youtube. Makeshift, but in the end I don't have a huge area to do. 8 m^2. I think I can do it - I'm young :)

And the issue of the thickness of this cube - when I took the measuring tape and measured these 10 cm - let me tell you that it looks so average. I'm wondering if I shouldn't make a 1x1m square where the block will stand and put a thicker 16 cm paving stone there and then maybe it will work.

jajuń wrote:

The question now is what should be the thickness of this foundation?

I think 5 to 10 cm should be enough.

I'm still reading about these sleepers - I don't have to put any gravel or crushed stone on the bottom? After all, this is not a driveway for cars ....

jajuń wrote:

I don't have to put any gravel or crushed stone on the bottom? After all, this is not a driveway for cars ....

It's rather redundant.

Under the ankle is the so-called dry concrete gives - a mixture of wet sand and cement. At my place (about 10 cm) they put sand + a compactor, then the mentioned dry concrete about 7-10 cm (i.e. a shovel of cement for 4-5 shovels of sand) + a compactor, then a paving stone + a compactor with a rubber overlay, then a cement mixture and sand in the cracks.
Passenger cars, buses, jacks, knocking with a hammer, nothing damages this ankle, even though there are several planes profiled on the driveways. After a few years, I modified a few things and after removing the cube, I had to hammer the mentioned substrate, because it bound quite strongly.

Jarosx9 wrote:

Under the ankle is the so-called dry concrete gives - a mixture of wet sand and cement

For the author:

jajuń wrote:

There will be a wood shed under the shed

all you need is sand (wamped wet) and a cube 6 cm thick.
However, in the place where the stump will stand, I would give a cube of 8-10 cm and dry concrete. A cube of a different color than the rest to mark the spot.

jajuń wrote:

I do not have a professional compactor, is a rammer with a bottom in the shape of a wide block enough?

Enough, I just killed it. The pavers called such a rammer "baba"

If a company repairs pavements near your place of residence, you can buy 50x50 pavement tiles from them for such a shed. I bought PLN 2 each, i.e. PLN 8 per square meter. Delicate ballast for them without special tamping. You can take one out and put a stump in its place. It will stand on the ground, it will be stable.