[Solved] The principle of operation of the refrigerator, aological explanation, consequen

Hello, I would like to start my adventure with refrigerators, as I was interested in building a fridge after purchase.
Well, the fridge is Liebheer KGT 3946 on the R600a.
The fridge is high, so unfortunately I decided to transport lying down.
And here people have different opinions.
Some of that on the suction side, others that the press and the admin AGD writes that it does not matter, until the refrigerator is not "upside down".
As this refrigerator has two compressors and unfortunately set up oppositely, there was no choice, you had to choose one of two - a necessary evil.
I bought the fridge, I could not check it, it was already turned off, the freezer was still cold (already defrosted), but the fridge was not.
Well, but to the point. After transport to the destination and waiting 24 hours, the refrigerator was connected to the network.
The effect is that both compressors turn on (both are very hot), the super cooler freezes, the wires coming out of the compressor also and the heat sink on the back of the refrigerator responsible for the freezer too.
However, the compressor responsible for the fridge also works hot, but the wires coming out of it are not. It seems to me that the cooling wall inside the refrigerator is slightly colder than the inside of the refrigerator.
The fridge is cool and I would like to experiment with it.
I would like to ask you in what order and what to diagnose.
I have some experience in air conditioning, I have a vacuum pump, pressure gauges, and a brazing kit.
I add a picture of the compressors, I will add that the refrigerator was transported on the left side looking from the back, because this side was already scratched (most likely from the previous transport by the previous owner).

There may be a loss in the refrigerator system or a stuck system, check it and since you have time, check the tightness of the nitrogen system

Cavity I understand that let R600A, but how do you check the stuffing? Capillary will be suppressed?
I corrected TONI_2003

Starterek85 wrote:

The cavity I understand that let r600a, a

No.

bubu64 wrote:

check it and since you have time to check the tightness of the system with nitrogen

Yes.

Starterek85 wrote:

I have some experience in air conditioning,

A bit, and it's probably exaggerated.

Small update:
Termik compressor turns off and on very often, work and pause 3-4min. I understand that through the clogged system the intensity of the motor increases and the thermostat protects, the evaporator in the refrigerator is slightly cool.
Now, yes, the capillaries, or the whole systems are clogged up?
Desoldering the compressor and blowing on the 50bar nitrogen side is enough to break the system? Then it is soldered back, gives the medium according to the plate and works?

Starterek85 wrote:

I understand that through the clogged system the intensity of the motor increases and the thermostat protects, the evaporator in the refrigerator is slightly cool.

It may be so, but it may be that the compressor has finished its life.

Starterek85 wrote:

Desoldering the compressor and blowing on the 50bar nitrogen side enough to break the system?

You will blow the condenser or steam trap and the capillaries will not slip if it is clogged ...

I will drop the R600A, see if the compressor then works, if the klixon does not react. If the order remains, replace the capillary and refill the system. Someone on the forum wrote that the oil embolism at the R600A can just be blown with nitrogen, and someone even wrote that with the R600A the compressors are dealing with oil capillaries themselves. I've never had this with it, so I do not know. Besides, what a nonsense with these capillaries, after all the compressor spits oil in itself, then why the capillary does not get clogged?

Starterek85 wrote:

Someone on the forum wrote that the oil embolism at the R600A could just be blown with nitrogen, someone even wrote that with the R600A, the compressors cope with the oil capillaries themselves.

What oil congestion and where would it take? After all, when the refrigerator is in the refrigerator, the oil from the compressor can only flow towards the evaporator and should be returned again after refitting.
Systems with R600a, due to low work pressures are currently made of "paper". Therefore, treating them with nitrogen under high pressure can cause damage.

The capillary permeability can be checked with nitrogen. Just think ... As it is clogged not so much by oil, but by the smell of salty oil from a superheated compressor, only the exchange remains. If such exchange is possible at all. The R600a compressor engines are very weak! This is another charm of this factor and a place for "savings" for producers. Overcharging or a small blockage stop the engine ...

Starterek85 wrote:

I will drop the R600A, see if the compressor then works, if the klixon does not react.

How do you want to do it? Was there a Schrader valve?

Is it a pretty old fridge and probably of the more expensive ones, so it can withstand? There is no valve for the present. This is what the compressors look like. The right is from the fridge, which does not demand, the left is from the freezer. The fridge rode looking at the compressors on the left side.

Starterek85 wrote:

However, the compressor responsible for the fridge also works hot, but the wires coming out of it are not.

If there was an embolism, then the pressure pipe should be very hot, and the sucking heat and according to I'm leaking. The fridge probably did not work properly before the purchase, and the transport of heating the system, the process of escaping the factor accelerated. Check the capillary outlet from the filter. Something terribly bent looks like?

Well, it's bent, and if it's not good, I do not know. I have to solder the valve, pull the vacuum and check for leaks, can I vacuum or do I need nitrogen? Then I'll check if the compressor is still overheating klixon. If the compressor has too much resistance without the refrigerant, it is probably a compressor to be replaced. Well, it will not be seen until next week. If necessary, I will replace the compressor, because the refrigerator looks solid.
I corrected TONI_2003

Starterek85 wrote:

I have to solder the valve, pull the vacuum and check the tightness, can I vacuum or do I need nitrogen?

First a vampire and a vacuum. Then nitrogen to push butane, and finally soldering.
Then "small" nitrogen and vacuum again. Then nitrogen about 6 -8 Bar and wait 24 hours on manometers.
As it is ok, it will drain the nitrogen to about 0.5 Bar and turn on the compressor. Look what's going on.
Turn off the compressor and continue to look, think and draw conclusions.

Replacing the compressor, replacing the filter. Vacuum and charging the refrigerant, the refrigerator is operational, and the topic needs to be closed.