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Suzuki Grand Vitara II 1.9 - Problem with the cooling system (ejects fluid)

Anatrax 19884 16
Best answers

What can cause coolant to be pushed out of the expansion tank in a Suzuki Grand Vitara II 1.9 DDiS even after the head gasket, thermostat, water pump, and hoses have been checked?

If the cooling system still pressurizes and the CO2 test stays positive after the head, gasket, thermostat, water pump, hoses, heater, radiator, and venting have been checked, the remaining likely sources are a cracked block or another component that leaks exhaust gas into the coolant circuit [#17575591][#17557803] One later reply identified the liquid-cooled EGR cooler on the 1.9 DDiS as a common culprit: if it cracks, exhaust gases are forced into the coolant and the expansion tank overflows [#21097745] Another follow-up reported that the actual fault was a cracked monolith in the block, and replacing the engine solved it [#17575148] So the practical next checks are the EGR cooler and a specialist inspection of the bare block; if the block is cracked, engine replacement is usually the realistic fix [#17557803][#17575148]
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  • #1 17474957
    Anatrax
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 6
    Hello,

    I would like to present to you my problem that accompanies my Suzuki Grand Vitara II 1.9 Ddis car from 2007.

    According to the car's mileage, it's time to replace the timing gear. I decided to buy a set from Contitech (timing gear + pump). After finishing the replacement and venting by the mechanics, I picked up the car and drove close to the house.

    Unfortunately, as it turned out later in days, I noticed that it ejected coolant through the expansion tank, and more precisely through the plug. I looked under the hood because the pointer while driving jumped literally in a second from the temperature that was equal to the half on the red field (max 5s) and then it returned to the half.

    Concerned, I started reading the first posts on the web, which could be the reasons. I thought - the system may still have air in it. From my observations, it showed that the liquid was only thrown out on a small circuit. After opening the large circuit, it no longer ejected liquid, but only a little bit remained at the bottom in the expansion tank (below the minimum). Unfortunately, I couldn't cope with it myself.

    So the car went to the mechanic again, tried to vent again, to no avail. So on our next visit we made a bet that it might be a Thermostat, that it opens too late or cuts, etc. CHANGED - but unfortunately the symptom hasn't stopped.
    In the meantime, black sediment appeared in the expansion tank. (it wasn't oil).

    Reading further on the Internet, I read that the symptom may also be caused by damage to the head gasket and the ingress of exhaust gases into the cooling system. That's why I bought a test for CO2 in the expansion tank. I did the test and it really turned from blue to green (it detected the exhaust gases in the tank - according to the instructions)

    So the car goes back to the mechanic, the head goes to another factory (the best one chosen in nearby places) to plan and check for leaks, replace the seals etc. All new gaskets and bolts were ordered, almost everything from ERLING. (head, collector, vacuum pump, etc.)
    After picking up the first run again and the fluid dumped again.

    This time the mechanics were betting that maybe I had a faulty pump in the set, the impeller was a bit different from the original one I had installed. So I ordered a pump from another company. However, this pattern also turned out to be wrong.

    Mechanics have already said that they checked the patency of the hoses, bypassed the heater, cooler, EGR cooler, thermostat, vented several times ... and unfortunately they already lack ideas what else it could be. The test still shows the presence of fumes in the system. Before replacing the timing gear, there were no disturbing symptoms or engine problems. Please help. What else can be checked and what could have caused such a defect ... Thank you in advance for any help.
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  • #2 17475244
    arekcnc4
    Level 11  
    Posts: 17
    Help: 3
    Rate: 3
    Hello.
    And a friend tried to simply replace the cork?
    greetings
  • #3 17475400
    Bulisander
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 4
    Hello, I have the same problem, the same symptoms I have been fighting for 3 months and my hands are dropping, maybe someone will suggest something
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  • #4 17475591
    helmud7543
    Level 43  
    Posts: 12621
    Help: 1216
    Rate: 1563
    If there are exhaust fumes in the system, there is no point in looking for other causes without eliminating blow-by. Leakage in UPG, head or block.
  • #5 17475959
    Anatrax
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 6
    arekcnc4 - yes, I bought a new plug ... and also checked the plug from another car that had the same tank.

    helmud7543 - flattened head, tested tightness, new gaskets ... but the test still stains green. Are you betting the block?
  • #6 17476169
    genek1000
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2292
    Help: 289
    Rate: 1047
    There is a Reno engine with which I do not associate such problems. The question is whether the Suzuki has not put some strange accessories there - the turbine is sometimes not water-cooled?
    Look on the Renault Megane / laguna forums to see if someone has struggled with such a problem.
  • #7 17476473
    helmud7543
    Level 43  
    Posts: 12621
    Help: 1216
    Rate: 1563
    The gasket or block, or in fact the turbine, is incorrectly fitted if it is physically connected to the cooling system. This exhaust gas is coming from somewhere, it has to be a place where there is pressure and where there is a physical possibility of exhaust gas leaking.
  • #8 17476736
    Bulisander
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 4
    That's right, the turbine in this model is liquid-cooled

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    That's right, the turbine in this model is liquid-cooled
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  • #9 17491918
    Bulisander
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 4
    Hello, did your colleague understand the topic with fluid

    Added after 1 [minutes]:

    Hello, did your colleague understand the topic with fluid
  • #10 17516500
    Anatrax
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 6
    Hello,

    Unfortunately, I am still struggling with this problem. The head has been checked for tightness the second time in another plant - it is tight.
    Two other cars were checked by the tester to confirm the credibility - it does not show exhaust gases on operational cars, so the result is reliable.
    How can I check / exclude a block? Should there be no other symptoms with a cracked block? Because with me, apart from the liquid thrown out through the cork and hard wires, you can not see anything.
  • #11 17517602
    genek1000
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2292
    Help: 289
    Rate: 1047
    Bulisander wrote:
    That's right, the turbine in this model is liquid-cooled

    Did you check this turbine?
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  • #12 17556745
    Anatrax
    Level 2  
    Posts: 4
    Rate: 6
    Turbine also checked, unfortunately also unchanged after work around ...
  • #13 17557803
    genek1000
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2292
    Help: 289
    Rate: 1047
    So it looks like a block.
    There are plants that specialize in such inspections - unfortunately, it involves taking the engine into a screw to get a clean / bare block.
    It is cheaper to buy a used post.
  • #14 17575148
    Bulisander
    Level 7  
    Posts: 5
    Rate: 4
    Hello, friend, I covered the topic by replacing the engine and it's ok broken monolith in the block after a deeper verification of the engine I looked for a bit of work from Reno Megan and it's ok because the price of the Suzuki engine is space greetings
  • #15 17774764
    piotr1721
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 7
    Hello all.

    I have the same situation in GV 1.9. Ejects fluid on a cold engine. Almost everything has already been replaced in the car (valve timing, original water pump, radiator, thermostat, water pipes and finally the second engine after general renovation), the situation is still unchanged - help because my hands are falling, I have been fighting this beast for half a year. Greetings.
  • #16 17775472
    genek1000
    Level 35  
    Posts: 2292
    Help: 289
    Rate: 1047
    piotr1721 wrote:
    until finally the second engine after general renovation

    Then advertise this engine and buy one that has not yet been pushed to the claws :D
  • #17 21097745
    agyuraszi
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    For all GV 1.9 DDIS users, facing the issue when coolant boils out from the degassing tank...

    If everything else in the cooling system seems to be in order, the culprit is the EGR cooler (located in the left side of the engine right besides the catalytic converter; part number is 8200657537 - Google it and check for variations). Had been facing this issue for 3 years, no service could remediate it. It was cracked and the hot exhaust gases were directly forced into the coolant, filling the system with hot gases and preventing normal cooler circulation. Once found it out, I have shortcutted the cooling system temporarily, everything works just fine, no spillage. Ordered a SH replacement part gonna install it and reply back. OEM ones are priced pretty spicy, more than 400 Euros new.

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a cooling system issue in a 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara II 1.9 DDIS, where coolant is ejected through the expansion tank cap after a timing gear replacement. Users suggest various potential causes, including air in the system, exhaust gas leaks from the head gasket or block, and issues with the EGR cooler. Some participants have experienced similar problems, leading to extensive repairs without resolution. A specific recommendation points to the EGR cooler as a possible culprit, which, if cracked, can introduce exhaust gases into the coolant, disrupting normal circulation. Users also discuss the possibility of replacing the engine if the block is found to be cracked.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Coolant spitting from the Grand Vitara 1.9 DDiS tank often traces to a cracked EGR cooler; new OEMs cost >€400. "The culprit is the EGR cooler." Bypass it briefly; if spillage stops, replace the cooler. [Elektroda, agyuraszi, post #21097745]

Why it matters: For Suzuki Grand Vitara II 1.9 DDiS owners, this FAQ shows how to diagnose and stop coolant overpressure and tank boil-over fast.

Quick Facts

What typically causes coolant to boil out of the degassing/expansion tank on GV 1.9 DDiS?

A cracked EGR cooler can inject hot exhaust into the coolant, over-pressurizing the system. The symptom is coolant boiling out of the tank despite an intact pump, radiator, and thermostat. One owner bypassed the cooler and the spillage stopped, confirming the cause. Replace the cooler after this test. "The culprit is the EGR cooler." [Elektroda, agyuraszi, post #21097745]

How do I confirm exhaust gases are in the cooling system?

Use a CO2 block tester at the expansion tank. Draw vapor through the reagent; blue fluid turning green indicates exhaust gas intrusion. In the reported case, the color change confirmed combustion gases in the cooling system. Perform the test with the engine warm and idling for reliable results. [Elektroda, Anatrax, post #17474957]

Where exactly is the EGR cooler, and what part number fits?

The EGR cooler sits on the left side of the engine near the catalytic converter. The referenced unit carries part number 8200657537. The owner reported that a cracked cooler was forcing exhaust into coolant, and bypassing it stopped the overflow immediately. [Elektroda, agyuraszi, post #21097745]

How do I quickly test the EGR cooler as the cause?

  1. With a cold engine, disconnect the two coolant hoses to the EGR cooler.
  2. Join those hoses together using a suitable coupler to bypass the cooler.
  3. Top up, run, and road‑test; if spillage stops, replace the EGR cooler. [Elektroda, agyuraszi, post #21097745]

I resurfaced the head and installed new gaskets, but gases remain—could the block be cracked?

Yes. A contributor noted it “looks like a block,” and that specialized shops can inspect blocks, but this requires full teardown. They advised that sourcing a used engine can be cheaper than machining a cracked block. This is a known worst‑case path. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #17557803]

Could the turbocharger be the source of coolant pressurization?

If the turbocharger is water‑cooled and internally leaking, exhaust pressure could enter the coolant. One expert stated the leak point must be where exhaust pressure can physically pass into coolant, including the turbo if it’s in the cooling circuit. Inspect or temporarily isolate it during diagnosis. [Elektroda, helmud7543, post #17476473]

Will a new radiator cap fix this issue?

A fresh cap is worth trying, but it will not solve gas intrusion. As one expert put it, “If there are exhaust fumes in the system, there is no point in looking for other causes.” Focus on the leak path first. [Elektroda, helmud7543, post #17475591]

Why does my temperature gauge spike to red and then drop back quickly?

Gas pockets can disrupt coolant flow and trigger transient overheat spikes. In the reported case, the gauge jumped from midpoint to red in about 5 seconds, then fell back. That behavior accompanied a positive CO2 test, indicating combustion gases in the coolant. [Elektroda, Anatrax, post #17474957]

Is the GV 1.9 DDiS turbo water‑cooled?

Yes. Owners confirmed the turbocharger on this model is liquid‑cooled. That makes it a candidate in any exhaust‑to‑coolant cross‑leak investigation, alongside the EGR cooler and head/block paths. [Elektroda, Bulisander, post #17476736]

How much does an EGR cooler cost, and is used OK?

The reported OEM EGR cooler price exceeded €400 new. One owner temporarily bypassed the cooler, confirmed the diagnosis, then ordered a second‑hand replacement to control cost. Ensure internal cleanliness and pressure‑test a used unit before installing. [Elektroda, agyuraszi, post #21097745]

I replaced timing, pump, thermostat, and bled the system—what should I check next?

If overflow continues and a CO2 test is positive, focus on exhaust‑to‑coolant leak paths. The EGR cooler is a prime suspect on this engine. Bypass it briefly; if the symptom stops, replace the cooler and re‑bleed. [Elektroda, agyuraszi, post #21097745]

Can a cracked block present without obvious oil/coolant mixing?

Yes. One owner reported a cracked block “monolith” discovered after deeper verification. The fix was an engine swap, and the vehicle operated normally afterward. Edge‑case failures like this can mimic head‑gasket issues without classic fluid cross‑contamination. [Elektroda, Bulisander, post #17575148]

I swapped in a rebuilt engine and still have coolant ejection—what did I miss?

If you retained the original EGR cooler, it can continue to inject exhaust into the coolant. One owner eliminated spillage by bypassing the cooler, then replaced it. Always evaluate external exchangers when engines are replaced. [Elektroda, agyuraszi, post #21097745]

Who else uses this engine, and where should I research?

The GV 1.9 DDiS uses a Renault engine. Owners recommend reviewing Renault Megane/Laguna forums for similar cases, parts numbers, and diagnostic tips. Cross‑platform patterns can speed your fix. [Elektroda, genek1000, post #17476169]

What’s the best diagnostic order to stop coolant ejection?

First, run a CO2 test. If positive, prioritize leak paths between exhaust and coolant. "If there are exhaust fumes in the system, there is no point in looking for other causes." Then isolate externals like the EGR cooler and water‑cooled turbo before tearing down. [Elektroda, helmud7543, post #17475591]
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