[Solved] Water Dripping from Safety Valve on Coal & Wood Stove (Open System): Possible Reasons & Fixes

Hello
I will start with the fact that I am a layman in the subject and I do not know anything about it, but to the point. I have a coal and wood stove, an open system with an overflow vessel. I keep dripping water from this blue-cap valve. Can anyone tell what the reason could be, or will replacing this valve solve the problem?

No air pre-pressure in the expansion vessel. A white pot.
You have to turn off the cold water supply, turn on the hot water tap and pump air into the canister until the pressure gauge shows 3 bars and the tap water stops flowing.

I combined the white canister in all ways, pumped 2 bars then 3 bars and the dripping did not stop. What I noticed, the hotter the water in the canister, the less dripping is. other cause?

Lisu24, I have the same problem, but on an open circuit.
It just dripped from time to time, especially when it was "horny".
I bought a new one for about PLN 20 and replaced it, the problem repeated again.
I don't have much time to rummage, I put the bucket in and it drips like that for a month.
But I join the topic.

Why an open circuit safety valve?

I also have an open system, I have the same patent (a bucket of this dripping can fill up in a few days). If not the valve, what could be the problem?

You write about an open system but a CO system. You are dripping from the DHW valve!

lisu24 wrote:

if not the valve, what can be the problem?

Did you do what I wrote? There is no improvement?

Piracik is correct, the safety valve is leaking on the water supply system to the boiler (heat exchanger) - i.e. in the DHW system.
Maybe you know what the reason is?

piracik wrote:

You write about an open system but a CO system. You are dripping from the DHW valve!

lisu24 wrote:

if not the valve, what can be the problem?

Did you do what I wrote? There is no improvement?

I did, the dripping continued.

Do you have a pressure gauge somewhere on cold water? Put on the inflation gun without draining the water and what pressure will show. Do you have a reducer at the entrance or your own well?

If you have done exactly as described and it is still dripping, it may mean that the liquid has been flowing for so long that the valve has become covered with limescale and needs to be replaced

Colleagues, if it drips for a long time, the safety valve will have to be replaced (Piracik is right). But if it drips after replacing the valve, the diaphragm cap must be replaced because the diaphragm in it is broken. To check it, press the valve in the air pumping vessel, if there is water, it should be replaced. greetings.

goldzik15 wrote:

Do you have a pressure gauge somewhere on cold water? Put on the inflating gun without draining the water and what pressure will show. Do you have a reducer at the entrance or your own well?

I do not have any manometer that would show the pressure in the network, I can only check the temperature, the water is from the water supply network, I have two valves on the supply.
As for the vessel, when you press the valve, only air escapes, water does not appear.
If I want to replace the valve, should I first drain all the water from the tank (250l)? How to do it correctly?

Buddy, you don't need to drain the water at all, turn off the boiler feed valve (cold), but remember to keep the hot water taps closed, then turn the safety valve hood to release the pressure. To be sure, you can use another person to hold a vessel under this valve, because when you unscrew the valve, the water may flow a little, but it will be without pressure and quite lazily, then you screw in a new valve and the problem is over. greetings.

Hello

I noticed that you are raving about a primitive DHW safety valve ...

Our colleague "lisu24" did not write how old this installation is ....
After some time of use, this valve will start to leak anyway ... probably from old age ..

Buddy "lisu24" tomorrow to the plumbing store for a new safety valve and a small roll of Teflon tape to seal the thread.

Before replacing the valve, do not forget to first shut off the water supply to the tank and then release the pressure from it by emptying it of water.

From what you can see in the photo you posted, it is a standard safety valve, rather 1/2 inch in size and water discharge pressure from 4 to 5 kg / cm2 ....

Well, unless your domestic water pressure is higher ... then you need a valve above 5 kg / cm2

What is the pressure of this valve (?) And is it screwed into the boiler connection?

I have the impression that we are looking at a picture of a boiler with two coils and a valve screwed into a stub pipe. If this valve protects the boiler against pressure build-up in this way, dripping while heating may be normal, apart from the "interesting solution".

roman 18 wrote:

Colleagues, if it drips for a long time, the safety valve will have to be replaced (Piracik is right). But if it drips after replacing the valve, the diaphragm cap must be replaced because the diaphragm in it is broken. To check it, press the valve in the air pumping vessel, if there is water, it should be replaced. greetings.

To my friend "roman18" .........

What does "gingerbread for the windmill" etc ... etc ....
I propose to recall ANOTHER what the diaphragm tank connected to the DHW tank is for ...

In the case that "lisu24" described it is unnecessary ...

MANTA20E wrote:

.... I suggest you to remember ANOTHER what the diaphragm tank connected to the DHW tank is for ...

We don't really know where that white diaphragm reservoir is plugged in.

Hello
To my friend "Homo_toxicus"

In the case of CO installations in an open system, what we deal with in the case of my colleague "Lisu24", diaphragm pressure vessels are not used ... (the name says an open system - read - without pressure)

We attach the DHW tank to this system, in which we already have the pressure of the water supply network ... and then ... by heating the water with the CO stove in this tank, we increase the pressure in the DOMESTIC HOT WATER (DHW) system.
To overcome the so-called arrows in the pipes after opening the DHW tap, we use equalizing tanks with an airbag.

So at our very nice friend "Lisu24" there is no other option for the existence of this diaphragm tank ....

The tank with valves was installed less than 2 years ago, the valve drips regardless of whether the water is heated or not (I would say that the more the water cools, the more it drips) the tank has one coil. The expansion vessel is pulled up with the lowest pipe to the tank drain valve .

MANTA20E wrote:

.... In CO installations in an open system, which is what we deal with in the case of my colleague "Lisu24", diaphragm pressure vessels are not used .... (the name says an open system - read - without pressure) ....

I return my honor . I wrote too quickly

My mantana, read carefully and understanding what other people write, or stay silent. Greetings.

Hello
Buddy "lisu24", do not worry about the discussions that were created here on the forum ...
As I wrote earlier, slide for a new safety valve and that's it ...

It will definitely take care of your problem.
You still have to take into account the quality of the currently sold products, since your installation is only 2 years old, maybe you got a crap ..... in the form of a valve ...
In my case regarding the BZ valve it was like this:
the first valve installed in 1999 (it lived until the end of the tank's life)
the next one in 2010 after replacing the tank with a double-walled ...
another one in 2015
and now another one in 2017 to the same tank ...

So we have a picture of the quality of the hydraulic components ...... in relation to modern technical thought ...
It is going to break pretty quickly so you have to get another one .....

greetings

Ok, now I am repeating the question whether I have to drain all the water from the tank or do I just turn off the water supply and can I turn it off?

roman 18 wrote:

My mantana, read carefully and understanding what other people write, or stay silent. Greetings.

Hello
No offense ... read with understanding ...
You suggested to your buddy replace the expansion tank too early ...


greetings

I had the same story. For me, the pressure in the water supply system is too high. The expansion vessel did not help. I had 5.5 bar in the network. I put on the reducer, pressure 2.5 bar and forgot the dripping. Check the water pressure in the network.

Buddy lisu24, two hours ago I wrote how to do it. Buddy, you still do not read the mantana with caution, I wrote that when the water flies with a valve, it must be replaced. Greetings.

Hello

As one of our colleagues said before, you don't need to drain all the water from the tank .....

Question:
Will you do it yourself ... do you have someone to help ...

First, cut off the water supply to the tank, then unscrew the lowest taps to release the pressure, when the water stops flowing from them, close them.

Option one: you do it yourself ... unfortunately you have to empty the water tank to the level of the valve you want to replace ....,

Option two: with the help of another person ---

you unscrew the valve and your assistant blocks the water leak from the tank with his hand / cloth / or something else at hand ... unfortunately ...
Remember that the valve must be previously prepared for screwing, wound with Teflon, etc.

grzmak wrote:

I had the same story. For me, the pressure in the water supply system is too high. The expansion vessel did not help. I had 5.5 bar in the network. I put on the reducer, pressure 2.5 bar and forgot the dripping. Check the water pressure in the network.

How do I check the power pressure? I have a tap at the beginning of the power supply and the water from it is flying very strongly as it decontaminates it.

There are three options:
-high network pressure .... install a reducer
-problems with the expansion vessel ... a damaged membrane (the water will fly through the valve when the air is released) or bad air pressure (inflate without water pressure and check the vent.with low air pressure, you can give the water pressure and measure what is in the network and it should be air pressure when there is no water pressure)
- defective safety valve (replace ... with the appropriate pressure)
and you make a doctorate out of it.