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The water meter is spinning, despite the twisted taps and the lack of leaks

stawpol2 13905 17
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Why does my water meter keep spinning with all taps closed and no visible leaks, but stop when the boiler is heated up?

The meter is most likely being affected by the boiler/heating circuit, not by the taps: one suggested test was to close the boiler feed valve, and if the meter stops, the fault is in the boiler or its connection to the expansion tank [#16740082] The main suspected causes were a micro-leak between the DHW and CO jackets in a double-wall boiler, corrosion related to a missing or worn magnesium anode, or water overflowing into the expansion tank [#16740438][#16741312] In the end, the OP found air trapped in the boiler; after loosening the DHW outlet connection and letting some water out, the meter stopped spinning [#16771925]
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  • #1 16739697
    stawpol2
    Level 13  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 67
    Hello, I expose the subject, maybe someone "enlighten" me, I know the subject of plumbing a bit, but something that I have at home is probably not even dreamed of philosophers!

    The taps are turned off, no leaks can be seen, I live in the house for 3 years, the valves in the cistern are checked, and yet the wing in the water meter gently turns! I turn off the valve in front of the water meter, of course, the propeller stops, and now the curiosity, when I light the stove and the temperature in the boiler increases, then the propeller stops completely. In the first phase, I thought that the hot water boiler was airing, but this is not because when it expires in the oven, the propeller is spinning all the time, when I light it, gentlemen, what's going on, because I was really stupid, and I was about to start forging the floor to choose into the tube with water, will someone suggest something?



    greetings
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  • #2 16739702
    kindlar
    Level 42  
    Posts: 7820
    Help: 912
    Rate: 1603
    What is your CO installation? Take some pics and upload.
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  • #3 16739760
    stawpol2
    Level 13  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 67
    Installation in an open system, coal stove, boiler with pressure equalizing tank attached.
  • #4 16739791
    adamkowalski431
    Level 16  
    Posts: 387
    Help: 7
    Rate: 72
    Do you have a tap outside or power to another building?
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    #5 16740082
    Duduś74
    Moderator of HydePark  
    Posts: 4220
    Help: 71
    Rate: 223
    Close the boiler feed valve, if it stops spinning, the boiler is probably broken. You can still check if water is overflowing through the expansion tank.
  • #6 16740188
    stawpol2
    Level 13  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 67
    Exactly like closing a valve, it stops spinning. And what could be damaged in the boiler. The boiler is only 3 years old.
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    #7 16740438
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2888
    Help: 378
    Rate: 967
    From what I can see you have a double wall boiler. There is a micro hole on the connection of the DHW jacket and the CO jacket. The situation is dull because the hole can get bigger at any moment.
    Did you replace the anode in the boiler as ordered by the producer?
  • #8 16741280
    stawpol2
    Level 13  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 67
    No, I did not mention. How would I understand that? If I light it in the oven and the water is about 60 degrees, the counter stops spinning and on a cold one begins to spin. It stops when I turn off the water admission valve to the boiler. So what would it be like if it were a micro hole? Why doesn't the meter work on a hot one and on a cold one? So what is the boiler exchange waiting for?
  • Helpful post
    #9 16741312
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2888
    Help: 378
    Rate: 967
    If you have bad water, the boiler may as well eat corrosion. The magnesium anode significantly delays this process.
    The counter stops spinning after firing because the metal expands to the point where the hole seals.
    stawpol2 wrote:
    So what is waiting for me to replace the boiler?

    Yes.
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  • #10 16741418
    stawpol2
    Level 13  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 67
    Thank you for the hints, better boiler replacement than demolition at home, we can close.
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  • #11 16742065
    Duduś74
    Moderator of HydePark  
    Posts: 4220
    Help: 71
    Rate: 223
    To be sure, close the running water supply, disconnect the central heating pipes from the boiler, and if the water from the mantle is ordered, open the water supply and see if the lower water connector starts flowing out of the central heating pipe.
  • #12 16745032
    stawpol2
    Level 13  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 67
    And by the way, 3 years and a hole in the CWU?
  • #13 16745068
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2888
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    stawpol2 wrote:
    3 years and a hole in CWU?

    Material, manufacturing or corrosion defect.
  • #14 16762714
    retrofood
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 31317
    Help: 1140
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    I had a case that after a year the tee in the floor cracked. More than 60 cubes of water leaked, and there was not even a trace of moisture in the basement. Water installation completely new. So that there are no miracles, there must be a leak. And I recommend installing a diaphragm vessel for pressure stabilization.
  • #15 16762757
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30168
    Help: 1183
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    Magister_123 wrote:
    The counter stops spinning after firing because the metal expands to the point where the hole seals.
    Could it be? If it is a micro hole, it also increases under the influence of temperature.
    That would indicate a micro leakage under the seal. The metal, which expands under the influence of temperature, compresses the gasket more.
  • #16 16763063
    Magister_123
    Level 36  
    Posts: 2888
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    vodiczka wrote:
    Could it be? If it is a micro hole, it also increases under the influence of temperature.

    One theory and practice the other. I have been working in the boiler service for a few years and have had various situations (such as above). I am not 100% sure that the diagnosis is correct. The more so that all takes place via the Internet.
  • #17 16766072
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30168
    Help: 1183
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    Magister_123 wrote:
    One theory and practice the other.
    If the theory did not agree with practice, then contraction joints would be impossible.
    I do not deny that when the boiler stops, the water stops but the mechanism of this phenomenon is different than you wrote
    Magister_123 wrote:
    the metal expands to the point where the hole seals.
  • #18 16771925
    stawpol2
    Level 13  
    Posts: 287
    Rate: 67
    And yet it turned out that the boiler had accumulated air, unscrewed the screw connection at the DHW outlet, some water flew, the clock stopped spinning.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a water meter that continues to spin despite all taps being turned off and no visible leaks. The user suspects an issue with their heating system, specifically a coal stove and a boiler with a pressure equalizing tank. Responses suggest checking the boiler feed valve, as a malfunction could cause water to flow improperly. A potential micro hole in the boiler's double wall is discussed, which could lead to water leakage that is temperature-dependent. The user eventually discovers that air accumulation in the boiler was the cause of the issue, resolved by releasing water from the DHW outlet, which stopped the meter from spinning.
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FAQ

TL;DR: If your water meter spins with taps shut, suspect a hidden leak or boiler crossover. “There must be a leak,” and one real case lost >60 m³ without visible moisture. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16762714]

Why it matters: This FAQ helps homeowners quickly isolate boiler-related causes before tearing up floors.

Quick Facts

Why does my water meter spin when all taps are closed?

A spinning meter with closed taps points to water moving somewhere. Common culprits are hidden leaks, a boiler-side crossover, or air driving circulation. One expert noted, “there must be a leak,” and documented >60 m³ lost without visible moisture. Start by isolating the boiler and checking for outdoor or auxiliary feeds. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16762714]

How do I test if the boiler is the cause?

Close the boiler feed valve and watch the meter. If the rotation stops, the flow path is on the boiler side. Reopen the valve to confirm the symptom returns. This simple isolation test prevents unnecessary demolition and directs you toward the DHW coil or jackets for further checks. [Elektroda, Duduś74, post #16740082]

What is a double‑wall boiler and how can it cause meter movement?

A double‑wall boiler has separate jackets for domestic hot water (DHW) and central heating (CO). A micro‑hole between these jackets lets cold water migrate, spinning the meter despite shut taps. This internal crossover can worsen suddenly, so prioritize diagnosis. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16740438]

Why does the meter stop when the boiler heats up?

Thermal expansion can temporarily seal a micro‑leak between jackets, so the meter stops during firing and spins again when cold. As one service tech explained, the expansion closes the path until temperatures drop. Treat this as a warning sign; the defect can grow. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16741312]

Can trapped air make the meter spin, and how do I fix it?

Yes. Air trapped at the DHW outlet can induce flow through the boiler. Bleeding the trapped air stopped the meter entirely in this thread. How‑To:
  1. Close water, then loosen the DHW outlet union at the boiler.
  2. Let air and a little water escape.
  3. Tighten, reopen supply, and recheck the meter. [Elektroda, stawpol2, post #16771925]

Do I need to replace the boiler if there’s a micro‑leak?

Yes. A jacket crossover is a structural failure. Heating may mask it temporarily, but the hole can enlarge at any time. Replacement removes the risk of sudden escalation and water damage. As one tech put it, replacement is the correct path when a micro‑hole is confirmed. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16741312]

How often should I replace the magnesium anode in a boiler?

Follow the manufacturer’s schedule. The anode sacrifices itself to protect the tank from corrosion. Skipping replacements accelerates jacket damage and raises the chance of a leak between DHW and heating circuits. If you don’t know the interval, inspect now and set a reminder. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16740438]

Could an outdoor tap or a second building feed be the cause?

Yes. An open or leaking outdoor spigot, or a supply line feeding another building, can explain meter movement when indoor taps are shut. Verify every branch line, including garage and garden connections, before opening walls or condemning the boiler. [Elektroda, adamkowalski431, post #16739791]

Is a leak possible even if I see no damp patches?

Absolutely. One installer reported losing more than 60 m³ with zero visible moisture in the basement. Water can escape into drains, soil, or concealed voids. Use isolation testing and targeted bleeding before invasive work. “There must be a leak,” remains the guiding principle. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16762714]

Should I add a diaphragm (expansion) vessel to stabilize pressure?

Yes, it helps stabilize pressure spikes that can worsen small defects. A pro recommended installing a diaphragm vessel in a system that had major unseen loss. It’s a low‑cost upgrade that reduces nuisance flow and stress on seals. [Elektroda, retrofood, post #16762714]

Why did the issue appear after only three years of use?

Material flaws, manufacturing defects, or accelerated corrosion can cause early failure. If the anode wasn’t maintained, corrosion accelerates. Document the diagnosis and check any warranty or goodwill policy before replacement. [Elektroda, Magister_123, post #16745068]

How can I confirm a DHW–heating crossover without guesswork?

Shut the main water. Disconnect the heating pipes at the boiler. Restore water and watch the lower CO connector. If water flows from the heating side, the jackets communicate and the boiler needs replacement. This isolates the fault cleanly. [Elektroda, Duduś74, post #16742065]

What is an open heating system, and does it affect this fault?

An open system uses a pressure‑equalizing (open) tank and a solid‑fuel boiler. Meter movement can still occur from jacket crossover or air effects, even without system overpressure. Diagnose with the same isolation and bleeding steps described above. [Elektroda, stawpol2, post #16739760]

Is thermal expansion the only reason heating stops the leak?

No. An alternative mechanism is gasket compression when metals expand. As one expert noted, a micro‑leak “under the seal” can close as temperature rises. Either way, hot/cold behavior strongly indicates an internal boiler path. [Elektroda, vodiczka, post #16762757]
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