Sizzling Electrical Outlet Issue: Troubleshooting & Repair Tips for Disturbing Noises

Hello,

For some time now, my electrical outlet has started to make disturbing noises after plugging equipment into it. The connected equipment works but stops after a while. After unscrewing the socket housing, the following view appeared:



Can you advise me what is wrong and how can I fix it?

Regards

Look at that burnout wire

Przemon246 wrote:

what's wrong and how can i fix it?

Replacement socket.
Since the "reset" is already done, it must be done correctly. TJ. the neutral wire first to the ground pin, and only to the socket contact (you have it the other way around), this bridge is to be made of a wire, not a string, or a cord, but terminated with a suitable tip.

Hello. This is due to burned, overheated aluminum wires. I propose to buy a new socket for replacement, turn off the electricity and start disassembling the old socket. Be careful not to make any sudden movements as aluminum cables are very brittle. Clean mechanically from tarnish. If it breaks, put the shortened cable on both cables of the connector and place them on the back, leading out two new cable sections in the appropriate colors.
Brown - phase
Blue - zero
Connection in the same way as in the old socket. You have to think slowly about replacing the electrical wiring from aluminum to copper.
It shouldn't sizzle anymore.

Bad contact between the wires and the terminals.
Overheated aluminum wires.
Socket contacts overheated.
Badly made zeroing circuit.

How to repair?
First, turn off the power.
Replace the seat with a new one.
Cut off burnt ends of aluminum wires.
Strip these wires approx. 15 mm.
Clean with fine sandpaper.
Clamp the cable sleeves on them.
Prepare 3 sections of copper wires 10 - 15 cm long in the following colors: blue, yellow-green, third phase color (black, brown or gray).
Connect the stopped ends of the aluminum conductor with the new lengths of the copper conductor using terminal blocks.
Blue and yellow-green wires are connected to the neutral wire, and one of the following colors to the phase wire: black, brown or gray.
The ends of the copper wires are connected to the terminals in the new socket in accordance with the purpose of the individual terminals.

The wires in the cubes should be connected in such a way that both screws press against the isolated ends of all wires, i.e. both the sleeve clamped on the aluminum wire and the copper wires. For this purpose, use a cube with a cross-section correspondingly larger than the cross-section of each conductor.

Plumpi wrote:

Clamp the cable sleeves on them.

What sleeves does the colleague mean? ?

Plumpi wrote:

We connect the blue and yellow-green wires to the neutral wire

Such distribution is only in the switchgear, not in the socket. Like a pointer, someone wrote N to the "pin" and then the bridge to the socket contact.

zadam64 wrote:

Connection in the same way as in the old socket.

Unfortunately, no, the N-ka in the old socket is incorrectly connected.

Adam-T wrote:

Plumpi wrote:

Clamp the cable sleeves on them.

What sleeves does the colleague mean? ?

The most common ferrules for crimping stranded wires.
https://dlaelektrykow.pl/10610-thickbox_defau...lejkowa-nieizolowana-ntn-610-100-szt-next.jpg
I have been using this patent for aluminum conductors for many years. The connections that I made almost 20 years ago work without any problems to this day.

Adam-T wrote:

Plumpi wrote:

We connect the blue and yellow-green wires to the neutral wire

Such distribution is only in the switchgear, not in the socket. Like a pointer, someone wrote N to the "pin" and then the bridge to the socket contact.

The method that I have described provides a much better galvanic connection of the protective pin with the neutral wire, and also protects the contact of the protective pin against overheating due to the flow of the operating current N.
If you want to connect this way, the wire must be continuous between PE and N. Unfortunately, in most currently produced sockets it is not possible to screw the wire loop to the PE terminal so that the wire is connected to the N while maintaining continuity. Since in new equipment PE terminals are often more delicate than active conductor terminals, and it is often impossible to connect a wire loop while maintaining its continuity, it is wiser to perform zeroing as described above.

Plumpi wrote:

If you want to connect this way, the wire must be continuous between PE and N. Unfortunately, in most currently produced sockets it is not possible to screw the wire loop to the PE terminal so that the wire is connected to the N while maintaining continuity

First of all, I do not want to connect like this (I do not have a problem), I have a TNS installation and I know how the "pin" in the socket in the TNC installation should be connected secondly, with this loop (I have my opinion), I will not agree because if a vein will fit next to the screw, then the eyelet (loop) around this screw will fit. The problem may be the lack of a sufficient cable length.
And then the author he shouldn't have to do it on his own, no kidding with the shock . Should call an electrician.

Adam-T wrote:

Plumpi wrote:

Clamp the cable sleeves on them.

What sleeves does the colleague mean? ?

Plumpi wrote:

We connect the blue and yellow-green wires to the neutral wire

Such distribution is only in the switchgear, not in the socket. Like a pointer, someone wrote N to the "pin" and then the bridge to the socket contact.

zadam64 wrote:

Connection in the same way as in the old socket.

Unfortunately, no, the N-ka in the old socket is incorrectly connected.

And where is the customer to take the third cable in the installation from the times of the Polish People's Republic ui is yellow-green, it would be good in copper?

Added after 4 [minutes]:

Plumpi wrote:

Adam-T wrote:

Plumpi wrote:

Clamp the cable sleeves on them.

What sleeves does the colleague mean? ?

The most common ferrules for crimping stranded wires.
https://dlaelektrykow.pl/10610-thickbox_defau...lejkowa-nieizolowana-ntn-610-100-szt-next.jpg
I have been using this patent for aluminum conductors for many years. The connections that I made almost 20 years ago work without any problems to this day.

Plumpi wrote:

We connect the blue and yellow-green wires to the neutral wire

Such distribution is only in the switchgear, not in the socket. Like a pointer, someone wrote N to the "pin" and then the bridge to the socket contact.

The method that I have described provides a much better galvanic connection of the protective pin with the neutral wire, and also protects the contact of the protective pin against overheating due to the flow of the operating current N.
If you want to connect this way, the wire must be continuous between PE and N. Unfortunately, in the majority of currently produced sockets it is not possible to screw the wire loop to the PE terminal so that the wire is connected to the N while maintaining continuity. Since in new equipment PE terminals are often more delicate than active conductor terminals, and it is often impossible to connect a wire loop while maintaining its continuity, it is wiser to perform the zeroing as described. [/ Quote]
Carve an eyelet for continuity on aluminum that is about 50 years old? Good luck.

zadam64 wrote:

Blue - zero

Are you sure buddy of that color?

Plumpi wrote:

We connect the blue and yellow-green wires to the neutral wire,

Are you sure of these colors?

zadam64 wrote:

And where is the client to get the third cable in the installation from the times of the Polish People's Republic ui is yellow-green, it would be good in copper?

Why does he need a third cable?

Adam-T wrote:

Such distribution is only in the switchgear, not in the socket. Like a pointer, someone wrote N to the "pin" and then the bridge to the socket contact.

You are sure of such a combination. Justify it, buddy.

Adam-T wrote:

... secondly, with this loop (I have my opinion), I will not agree because if a vein will fit next to the screw, then the eyelet (loop) around this screw will fit. The problem may be the lack of a sufficient cable length.

The problem is not the length of the wires, because they can and even have to be extended, but the problem is that in the vast majority of sockets it is impossible to remove the screws, because they are covered with plastic and access with a screwdriver is through a hole smaller than the screw head, and the wires are introduced to the buttonholes.
You probably still have ideas about old attachments from years ago. Nowadays it is difficult to find such accessories.

https://elektrykadlakazdego.pl/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/GE_TNC_002.jpg

http://elektrykapradnietyka.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/rys-8.jpg

https://epstryk.pl/p/483/30007/simon-54-premi...aciski-srubowe-dgz2mz-01-48-simon-54-premium- contact-simon-socket-wylaczniki.html

Not to mention the self-locking sockets

http://www.elektro-partner.pl/sklep/celiane/067121/067121_t.JPG

http://www.elektroonline.pl/img/media/12977

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

Justify it, buddy.

I will quote here col kkas12

Quote:

This method is illustrated by the principle. first we protect, then we power up.
So first a protective contact and then a working contact.

Plumpi wrote:

Nowadays it is difficult to find such accessories.

Only one of the examples cited is double.
My example
https://photos05.redcart.pl/templates/images/...cts/4457/5f9789b133597d59e7d77c2aace7b4a9.jpg
Still produced. Anyway, this dispute is nonsensical, so let it be that my friend is right and I am not.
Regards.

Adam-T wrote:

Let me quote you kol kkas12
Quote:
This method is illustrated by the principle. first we protect, then we power up.
So first a protective contact and then a working contact.

Plumpi wrote:
Nowadays it is difficult to find such accessories.

Mate bad quote to this question, colleague Kkass meant something else.

Krzysztof Reszka wrote:

Adam-T wrote:
Such distribution is only in the switchgear, not in the socket. Like a pointer, someone wrote N to the "pin" and then the bridge to the socket contact.
You are sure of such a combination. Justify it, buddy.

Buddy, remember the N conductor cannot be split again. So your advice to put the N wire on the pin and cross it to the terminal is wrong.
Only the PEN conductor can be separated. In this case, it is a PEN that does not meet today's standards.