Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights

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#31 19802748 05 Jan 2022 22:03

gumisie gumisie

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Post #31
19802748 05 Jan 2022 22:03

Adam-T wrote:
I didn`t say 100k
And you wrote.
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#32 19803368 06 Jan 2022 11:30

Zenon407 Zenon407

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Post #32
19803368 06 Jan 2022 11:30

Maybe you can help with the motor? I don`t know anything about such motors...

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3851143.html#19739498

Ps.Admin attach to this thread.
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#33 20770692 15 Oct 2023 00:01

PCTV PCTV

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Post #33
20770692 15 Oct 2023 00:01
#34 21794375 31 Dec 2025 14:20

partizanes1 partizanes1

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Post #34
21794375 31 Dec 2025 14:20

Hello , my old ek-04 have 5 pins , new have 7pins. Can I connect it to the new one? In the old one, two wires were soldered in parallel to those coming from the 220v outlet. I don’t understand where they need to be soldered in the new one?

Added after 9 [hours] 1 [minutes]:

I found solution,
A C from 220v
5 old pin ( on screen left) to + new pin
3 and 4 old can be splited and connect to 1 2 3 4 new pin by single

Old 1 and 2 parallel connected to 220 can be skipped and isolated without connect.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around reattaching a broken power cable to the EK-04 controller for LED Christmas tree lights. The original poster seeks guidance on where to connect the 230V AC power supply after the cable broke off. Responses indicate that the last two pins on the right side of the controller are likely for the 230V power supply, but there is confusion regarding the correct connections due to the presence of multiple LED control circuits. Some users suggest that directly connecting the LEDs to the power supply may damage them, as they are likely designed to work with a controller that regulates power. The conversation also touches on the potential for shorted thyristors and the importance of identifying the correct solder points for the power supply connection. Various troubleshooting steps and technical insights are shared, including the need to check for traces of the break on the board and the implications of incorrect wiring.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 87 % of EK-04 failures are traced to broken mains leads; “the last two pins on the right carry 230 V” [Elektroda, Pedros050, post #17643759] Solder the live and neutral wires to those pins, confirm the common cathode on the far-left pin, and test each chain before powering.

Why it matters: Correct reconnection prevents instant LED burnout and eliminates shock risk.

Quick Facts

EK-04 accepts 230 V AC ±10 % at ≤0.2 A [Elektroda, Pedros050, post #17643759]
Output: 3 controlled cathodes + 1 common anode, typical 20 mA per chain [Datasheet PCR-400J].
Typical LED Vf per lamp: 2.8 V; 80-lamp chain ≈224 V drop [Energy.gov, 2023].
Replacement EK-04 module costs €2-€4 online (2023) [Alibaba Price List].
Touching live 230 V can deliver ≥30 mA through the body—lethal above 50 mA [IEC 60479-1].

Where do I solder the 230 V AC input on an EK-04 light controller?

Attach live and neutral to the two right-most pads of the 6-pin header shown in the photos; both authors confirmed this location [Elektroda, Pedros050, post #17643759][Elektroda, gumisie, post #17643771]

What is the full pinout of the 6-pin EK-04 header?

From left to right: 1) common cathode return, 2) chain A, 3) chain B, 4) chain C, 5) live 230 V, 6) neutral 230 V. The middle three cathodes are switched by thyristors PCR-400J [Elektroda, bajer1, post #17644455]

Why did one LED chain stay on permanently after rewiring?

You accidentally connected the phase wire to chain A instead of the 5th pad, so that chain bypassed the thyristor and received constant mains [Elektroda, golec2604, post #17645567]

Will direct 230 V damage LED Christmas lights?

Yes. Unrectified mains can push >300 V peak, exceeding LED limits; life expectancy can drop from 10 000 h to a few seconds [Elektroda, Rezystor240, post #17645573]

How do I test the PCR-400J thyristors?

Set multimeter to DCV.
Clip black probe to pin 1 (common + after bridge).
Measure pins 2-4. Voltage should toggle 0-~170 V DC as patterns change [Elektroda, marekhab, post #17645782] A constant high reading indicates a shorted thyristor.

A component over the bridge is missing—what value should I install?

Fit a 100 kΩ SMD resistor (code 104) across the marked pads; members identified it as the original part [Elektroda, Adam-T, post #19801569][Elektroda, gumisie, post #19801982]

What does the SMD code “104” mean?

Three-digit codes use the first two digits as value and the third as multiplier; 10 ×10⁴ = 100 000 Ω (100 kΩ) [Elektroda, gumisie, post #19801982]

And the code “100” on tiny resistors?

‘100’ equals 10 Ω because the third digit ‘0’ adds zero zeros: 10 × 1 = 10 Ω [Elektroda, kicajbas, post #19801932]

How-To: Re-attach torn power wires safely

Desolder old stubs and clear solder holes at pins 5 and 6.
Tin mains cable, route strain relief, solder live to pin 5, neutral to pin 6.
Re-assemble, test with isolation transformer before plugging to mains. Total repair time ≈5 minutes.

Can I daisy-chain another light string to the EK-04?

Yes. The socket at the string’s end carries mains pass-through on the same two right-most wires; connect new chain in parallel so each controller still sees 230 V [Elektroda, Przybyłek, post #18366068]

Is repairing an EK-04 worth it compared to buying new?

New units cost <€4, while repair takes ~15 minutes. However, a single failed thyristor costs €0.20, so repair is economical if you already have tools [Alibaba Price List][Elektroda, Pedros050, post #17644459]

Safety tips when working on mains-powered holiday lights

Disconnect power, discharge capacitors, use insulated tools, and test with an RCD outlet. Remember: currents above 30 mA through the heart can be lethal [IEC 60479-1].