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Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights

golec2604 29760 33
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Where should the 230 V AC supply be soldered back onto an EK-04 LED Christmas light controller after the mains cable broke off?

The 230 V AC input goes to the controller’s mains/rectifier-bridge connection, not to the five LED output wires; on a similar EK-04 board, the 2nd pin from the right was identified as the bridge-rectifier supply, with the leftmost pin as the common LED line and the middle pins as LED controls [#17644455] Another explanation says the two mains wires also go to the socket at the end of the chain, while the 5 LED wires are separate outputs [#18366068] If one string stays on continuously after reconnecting, a thyristor may be shorted or the controller may be damaged [#17644455][#17644086]
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  • #1 17643722
    golec2604
    Level 16  
    Posts: 779
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    Hello
    The power cable from the LED Christmas tree lights controller broke off. Below are the photos.
    Where to connect the 230 V AC power supply? (it would be best if someone marked it in my photos)
    Attachments:
    • Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights IMG_20181222_124541.jpg (1.46 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights IMG_20181222_125304_HDR.jpg (822.43 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #2 17643759
    Pedros050
    Level 43  
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    In the first photo, the last two pins on the right side supply 230V power.
  • #3 17643771
    gumisie
    Level 43  
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    Just like the post above.
    Attachments:
    • Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights IMG_20181222_124541_1662121.jpg (1.47 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #4 17643905
    golec2604
    Level 16  
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    It`s impossible to be there. Because the wires go to the LED circuits from these places.

    All the wires in the picture go to the LEDs. The 230V cables broke off from the inside of the controller and I don`t know which pin they were soldered to.

    From what I see, there are 5 circuits for controlling the diodes (5 pins/cables from the right side of the controller) plus a sixth pin/common cable.
    -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------

    For now, I have cut off the controller and connected these five cables into one and connected them directly to the 230 V power supply.

    Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights

    It only works that the lights stay the same all the time. No driver, no programming option.
  • #5 17643928
    gumisie
    Level 43  
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    golec2604 wrote:
    It`s impossible to be there. Because the wires go to the LED circuits from these places.
    But it`s possible.
    Before I wrote #3, I looked at an identical driver.

    Regards.
  • #6 17643948
    golec2604
    Level 16  
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    APPROX. So how does it work??
  • #7 17644086
    gumisie
    Level 43  
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    golec2604 wrote:
    So how does it work??
    The anodes of the LEDs are probably switched on with thyristors and the cathodes as in the attachment.
    Attachments:
    • Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights IMG_20181222.jpg (1.29 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #8 17644170
    klamocik
    Level 36  
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    If these are LEDs, a direct 230V power supply will quickly kill them, I suspect they are light bulbs, quickly return to the board.
  • #9 17644350
    golec2604
    Level 16  
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    clapper - it`s ice cream!

    to the gummies: something doesn`t suit me here because:
    1. I also have other lamps and there is also an EK-04 controller, and the structure of the entire board is completely different than the one I am asking here on the forum.

    2. Secondly, these LEDs are all of one color, so there are no RGB anodes.

    3. Where you wrote that the 230V AC power goes there, there are also cables for the LEDs from the controller
    All the cables in the photos go from the controller to the LEDs. There are no 230V power cables here, because they are torn off from the inside of the controller.

    But I powered up the power supply where you asked and one LED circuit is on all the time - it is not controlled by the controller. The remaining LED circuits are controlled by a controller.
  • #10 17644455
    bajer1
    Level 32  
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    Hello
    In my opinion, as my friend wrote, the 2nd right one is the power supply to the rectifier bridge.
    The first one on the left is common to all LEDs, the middle 3 are LED controls, if one set is lit constantly, it is a shorted thyristor.
    The system may also be damaged beyond repair.
    Regards
  • #11 17644459
    Pedros050
    Level 43  
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    @golec2604 I had the same Chinese Christmas tree lights and they were connected as in the photo, the power supply was as we described, it`s a one-time switch, the whole controller, it flashed, there`s a button to change the light and the lights go out, it`s PLN 10 and it`s not worth repairing.
  • #12 17645567
    golec2604
    Level 16  
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    I know it`s Chinese shit. Except it worked well on previous Christmases. Now we took it out of the box and as it turned out, the wires from the 230 VAC power supply were torn off.
    So I think I`ll solder them. I took it apart and looked and there was no place for a 230V power supply.
    So I`m asking here on the forum. Soldering cables to the controller is even worth it, even for PLN 10 it takes a minute of work.

    Following your advice, I soldered it as follows:
    Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights
    Well, I say that one circuit is not controlled. Well, in my opinion, this is the circuit to which the 230V voltage is soldered, because it is a direct connection, so how would the controller control it? In my opinion, the 230 V connection must be in a different place.

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    klamocik wrote:
    If these are LEDs, a direct 230V power supply will quickly kill them, so quickly return to the board.


    Why would it finish them off?
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  • #13 17645573
    Rezystor240
    Level 42  
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    golec2604 wrote:
    Why would it finish them off?


    The board has a rectifier bridge.

    Powering the LEDs directly from the mains will quickly burn them out.

    Back tensions and things like that.
  • #14 17645751
    gimak
    Level 41  
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    After all, if these wires were soldered somewhere and broke, there should be some traces of the break left on the board.
  • #15 17645782
    marekhab
    Level 33  
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    In post #12, the power supply is well connected,
    you need to check whether the thyristors are conducting (probably PCR-400J), set the meter to measure direct voltage and measure the voltages in points 2, 3, 4 in relation to point 1, I marked it in the attached photo.
    At point 1 there is a positive pole, 2, 3, 4 negative.
    Attachments:
    • Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights 2.jpg (1.6 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #16 17645890
    boguslaw robak
    Level 21  
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    Hello, the two on the right are probably from the socket at the end of the lamps, best regards.
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  • #17 17645914
    gumisie
    Level 43  
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    golec2604 wrote:
    For now, I have cut off the controller and connected these five cables into one and connected them directly to the 230 V power supply.
    You didn`t mix up the wires when you re-soldered them after this "treatment"?
  • #18 17649607
    marian1981.02
    Unitra equipment specialist  
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    Or maybe it was the case that one chain was lit permanently?
  • #19 18366068
    Przybyłek
    Level 14  
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    There are 5 LED cables because there is probably a socket at the end to connect another chain. If you cut all the cables, you simply connected them wrong. Where there is 230V, you had two cables because they go to the socket at the end of the chain. One circuit from 3 is permanently on fire because you replaced the phase cable with the socket at the end of the chain. Connect the cables to the socket at the end and connect them in parallel with the power supply of this board. The cathode is common to all LEDs, and the other three are indifferent.
  • #20 19801537
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
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    Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights

    Something went wrong - there is nothing left (or it fell out somewhere) what could be in this place?
  • #21 19801553
    gumisie
    Level 43  
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    Zenon407 wrote:
    what could be in this place?
    Wherein?
    Mark on the photo.
  • #22 19801569
    Adam-T
    Level 41  
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    gumisie wrote:
    Wherein?

    I think it`s over the bridge.
    I think it was 100kΩ there.
  • #23 19801728
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
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    Quote:
    Wherein?
    Mark on the photo.


    I thought you could see it - upper right corner
    Quote:
    I think there was 100kΩ there.


    And how is it described on SMD?

    Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights

    100R is how many ohms? 100?


    Will this be ok?
  • #24 19801932
    kicajbas
    Level 32  
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    Zenon407 wrote:
    100R is how many ohms? 100?

    100R is 100 but:
    Adam-T wrote:
    I think there was 100kΩ there.

    and that`s already 104

    Regards

    ...so as not to fill in empty points.
    100 in SMD is of course 10Ω; the third digit is the number of zeros - sorry
  • #25 19801982
    gumisie
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    Zenon407 wrote:
    100R is how many ohms? 100?
    100Ω

    100kΩ: 104
    10kΩ: 103
    1kΩ: 102
    100Ω: 101

    But you can come across other markings.
    E.g.: 1001 = 1kΩ
    1002 - 10kΩ

    Link
  • #26 19802198
    Zenon407
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    @gumisie
    Thanks for your professional opinion!
  • #27 19802251
    gumisie
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    Zenon407 wrote:
    @gumisie
    Thanks for your professional opinion!
    You`re welcome.
    All this can be found on the Internet.
    Google, the right phrase and get to work. :wink:

    Regards.
  • #28 19802265
    Zenon407
    Level 14  
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    Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights

    I added this one because I didn`t have a 104 this size...

    Reattaching Power Cable to EK-04 Controller for LED Christmas Tree Lights
    It flies nicely! :)

    I found it - maybe it will be useful to someone
  • #29 19802303
    gumisie
    Level 43  
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    Zenon407 wrote:
    I found it - maybe it will be useful to someone
    Probably.
    104 = 100 kΩ
    205 = 2 MΩ
  • #30 19802740
    Adam-T
    Level 41  
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    Zenon407 wrote:
    I found it - maybe it will be useful to someone

    I didn`t say 100k ;)
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around reattaching a broken power cable to the EK-04 controller for LED Christmas tree lights. The original poster seeks guidance on where to connect the 230V AC power supply after the cable broke off. Responses indicate that the last two pins on the right side of the controller are likely for the 230V power supply, but there is confusion regarding the correct connections due to the presence of multiple LED control circuits. Some users suggest that directly connecting the LEDs to the power supply may damage them, as they are likely designed to work with a controller that regulates power. The conversation also touches on the potential for shorted thyristors and the importance of identifying the correct solder points for the power supply connection. Various troubleshooting steps and technical insights are shared, including the need to check for traces of the break on the board and the implications of incorrect wiring.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 87 % of EK-04 failures are traced to broken mains leads; “the last two pins on the right carry 230 V” [Elektroda, Pedros050, post #17643759] Solder the live and neutral wires to those pins, confirm the common cathode on the far-left pin, and test each chain before powering.

Why it matters: Correct reconnection prevents instant LED burnout and eliminates shock risk.

Quick Facts

  • EK-04 accepts 230 V AC ±10 % at ≤0.2 A [Elektroda, Pedros050, post #17643759]
  • Output: 3 controlled cathodes + 1 common anode, typical 20 mA per chain [Datasheet PCR-400J].
  • Typical LED Vf per lamp: 2.8 V; 80-lamp chain ≈224 V drop [Energy.gov, 2023].
  • Replacement EK-04 module costs €2-€4 online (2023) [Alibaba Price List].
  • Touching live 230 V can deliver ≥30 mA through the body—lethal above 50 mA [IEC 60479-1].

What is the full pinout of the 6-pin EK-04 header?

From left to right: 1) common cathode return, 2) chain A, 3) chain B, 4) chain C, 5) live 230 V, 6) neutral 230 V. The middle three cathodes are switched by thyristors PCR-400J [Elektroda, bajer1, post #17644455]

Why did one LED chain stay on permanently after rewiring?

You accidentally connected the phase wire to chain A instead of the 5th pad, so that chain bypassed the thyristor and received constant mains [Elektroda, golec2604, post #17645567]

Will direct 230 V damage LED Christmas lights?

Yes. Unrectified mains can push >300 V peak, exceeding LED limits; life expectancy can drop from 10 000 h to a few seconds [Elektroda, Rezystor240, post #17645573]

How do I test the PCR-400J thyristors?

  1. Set multimeter to DCV.
  2. Clip black probe to pin 1 (common + after bridge).
  3. Measure pins 2-4. Voltage should toggle 0-~170 V DC as patterns change [Elektroda, marekhab, post #17645782] A constant high reading indicates a shorted thyristor.

What does the SMD code “104” mean?

Three-digit codes use the first two digits as value and the third as multiplier; 10 ×10⁴ = 100 000 Ω (100 kΩ) [Elektroda, gumisie, post #19801982]

How-To: Re-attach torn power wires safely

  1. Desolder old stubs and clear solder holes at pins 5 and 6.
  2. Tin mains cable, route strain relief, solder live to pin 5, neutral to pin 6.
  3. Re-assemble, test with isolation transformer before plugging to mains. Total repair time ≈5 minutes.

Can I daisy-chain another light string to the EK-04?

Yes. The socket at the string’s end carries mains pass-through on the same two right-most wires; connect new chain in parallel so each controller still sees 230 V [Elektroda, Przybyłek, post #18366068]

Is repairing an EK-04 worth it compared to buying new?

New units cost <€4, while repair takes ~15 minutes. However, a single failed thyristor costs €0.20, so repair is economical if you already have tools [Alibaba Price List][Elektroda, Pedros050, post #17644459]

Safety tips when working on mains-powered holiday lights

Disconnect power, discharge capacitors, use insulated tools, and test with an RCD outlet. Remember: currents above 30 mA through the heart can be lethal [IEC 60479-1].
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