Majfrends Wi-Fi Light Switch: 2xL & N Connection, Mysterious Transformer, & 2-Wire Setup

Hello gentlemen, I need your help, namely I bought Wi-Fi light switches from majfrends, everything is nice and beautiful, etc. here on the diagram you need 2xL and N to connect, in one of the rooms I had a tube with wires inside the wall and there was no problem here I replaced the cable with a 3-wire one and everything works, the problem in other rooms where the cable is routed in the wall and it's hard for me to forge now , here in the second picture there is a mysterious "transformer" and there is a 2-wire connection, but what is this miracle? These yellow miracles were left to me from the previous switch, but the second connection does not work with it

djmalin wrote:

in the box located in the wall in the old building there are two L and N wires,

No, it doesn't, except in a socket box. In the switch box there is / should be in the old installation L and the outlet L for the lamp> i.e. L1, and N is missing.

Rather, without a 3-core cable, there is only the option of mounting next to the lamp itself.
This yellow element is a capacitor so that your LED bulbs do not glow when turned off.

bubu1769 wrote:

Rather, without a 3-core cable, the only option left is to mount it next to the lamp itself.
This yellow element is a capacitor so that your LED bulbs do not glow when turned off.

I mean what the switch should I do under the ceiling? and in this second picture there is a 2-wire diagram, how to connect the old switch under L and L1 as it was connected, it becomes a disco ?

And did you install with this capacitor?

bubu1769 wrote:

And did you install with this capacitor?

Yes, and it does not give anything, I just don't know if it is suitable, because I have been left with it from another set, and as soon as the bulb is connected, the bulb flashes all the time, whether the switch is on or not, it flashes with all its power

Added after 14 [minutes]:

stanislaw1954 wrote:

djmalin wrote:

in the box located in the wall in the old building there are two L and N wires,

No, it doesn't, except in a socket box. In the box for the switch there is / should be in the old installation L and outlet L for the lamp> i.e. L1, and N is missing.

And how to do, or is it possible to do so, to leave L and L1 in this box, and possibly to change the box at the ceiling?

Something was missing from the Chinese.
Without the N wire in the box you will not run it.
The correct connection drawing is HERE

And where did you connect this capacitor? because according to the schematic should probably be in the lamp.

The diagrams are rather good that at the auction is a different model.
The capacitor should be in parallel with the bulb and no matter where.
The question is whether you use it for LEDs or traditional light bulbs because perhaps this is the reason, unless there should be a transformer in parallel with the bulb, not a capacitor.

Quote:

The capacitor should be in parallel with the bulb and no matter where.

You spoke wisely, then write where.

bubu1769 wrote:

The diagrams are rather good that at the auction is a different model.
The capacitor should be parallel to the bulb and no matter where.
The question is whether you use it for LEDs or traditional light bulbs, because perhaps this is the reason, unless there should be a transformer in parallel with the bulb, not a capacitor.

The bulb is like this:

This is how I generally look at offers with these Wi-Fi switches and everywhere they say to use this capacitor, or as they call it "LED transformer", in the case of connecting incandescent lamps with a power of less than 3W and when the bulb is blinking after switching off. And no matter if the capacitor is next to the bulb, in the lamp cube or somewhere in the box on the way, it should simply be parallel to the bulb to "load" the switch output.
The switch itself looks like it should work on a "parasitic" power supply, but I don't know if there are any specific load conditions to be met then. Usually, when I have contact, for example, with two-wire sensors, there are situations that they need to connect a relay with a higher power coil, otherwise circuses happen.

I have this problem:
I have a double touch in the living room, and a normal one in the dressing room, and when the light is off in the living room and I turn off the light in the dressing room, the light will flash in the living room. I have this yellow LED adapter but I don't know how to connect it. Only the phase comes to the touch switch, which comes later to the bulbs, there is no neutral. Does anyone know what's going on?

Please help. How is this damn connected? I already had almost all my hair torn out?

The capacitor is best placed in the cube of the lamp itself, and then the switch is mounted like the old one.

Maybe my friend something more? What (what color) to connect the capacitor to, and what to L and what to L1. There are black with brown and black coming out of that red cube.

Presumption is that this is a photo of the place where the old switch was.
You need to connect the new switch in the same way as the old one, if the old switch was a simple single one, with the right direction, under L must enter the wire with the phase, on L1 is the output to the bulb.
To check where what is, even an ordinary 230V tester would suffice.
After the photo itself, it's hard to say where what is, especially as the wires are twisted and clogged with paint, you can see that there is also a blue (probably neutral) and yellow-green (protective) wire, but if everything is connected, it will not be fixed remotely.
The capacitor, as I wrote, is best to mount next to the lamp or in a place where both wires will be available.
If you are not sure that you know what you are doing, it might be better to give it to someone who is familiar with electricity because at 230V you really don't joke.