Connecting 2x230V 2L/2N Induction Hob with 3-Phase Cables: Proper Wiring & Full Power Usage

Good.
First, the power is in watts "W" or "kW", not kilovolt "kV". Secondly, if the board has a rating plate that says that it must be connected to the 3F network, then it must be done. Otherwise it won't work for you. I also don't really understand your reasoning: "I connect L1, N1 and ground to one cable, and L2, N2 to the other." Do you want to connect the L1 and N1 wires together? If so, I advise against you because you will make a short circuit. Also, do not connect the phase conductors (L) together. You can turn neutral (N) together. If you want to power a three-phase induction hob, you need to pull the third phase towards it - another wire from the fuse box. Where does this drawing come from, anyway?

Hello

grabtom wrote:

There are, however, two separate 1-phase cables

Each phase is different, yes?

grabtom wrote:

Do I understand correctly that I can connect the induction hob according to the diagram as shown in the attached picture?

This is the picture of the induction hob connections? How like this:

grabtom wrote:

I connect L1, N1 and ground to one cable, and L2, N2 to the other

Exactly as drawn in the picture.

grabtom wrote:

and the board will be able to use the full power of 7.4 kV?

Yes, but in practice it is not at full power because the board driver switches the voltage between the poles in order to reduce the overall power consumption.

grabtom wrote:

An authorized electrician will be connected

So I suggest you do not worry about connecting.

grabtom wrote:

the possible possibility of such a connection has an influence on the choice of the hob model.

Yes, it should be connected as specified by the manufacturer and authorized electricians know it very well.
My guess is that my colleague is asking more out of curiosity than the will to connect.

Well then it got clear. The board is two-phase. Only change the fuses to 25A, because 16A will not be enough at full power. Depending on the voltage, you will have a current of 18.5A to 19.47A.
greetings
3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem. [TM]

grabtom wrote:

At the beginning, I will probably order a one-phase connection and see how the equipment will perform in the "half-whistle" mode

Well, this is a problem because:
1. If the board is powered by only one single-phase cable, its cross-section should be 4mm2.
2. If, on the other hand, two different phases are given with the neutral wire, as the current colleague has led out, then 7.5kW can be achieved.
3. However, the hob works most efficiently when it is powered by 3 phases (3 x 400V) - faster heating of the food.
2-phases are used to power induction hobs
4. An electrician (rather) will not connect to one phase because the supplied 1-phase cable has too small cross-section of wires.
On such a cable with 2.5mm2 conductors, with a copper wire laid in the wall, you can get about 20A, this will give a 230V AC 4600W (4.6KW) power supply.
Please consider what values are used to secure the appropriate wire cross-sections and check the value of the main protection.
3.1.11. Don't post messages that add nothing to the discussion. They are misleading, dangerous or do not solve the user's problem.
[TM]

Tumiwisizm wrote:

Only change the fuses to 25A, because 16A will not be enough at full power

And the wires will stand the author writes ..

grabtom wrote:

I wrote that I had two separate 3 x 2.5 mm2 wires pulled up.

Tumiwisizm wrote:

Change the fuses to 25A, because 16A will not be enough at full power. Depending on the voltage, you will have a current of 18.5A to 19.47A.

Buddy, read on - page 9:
https://www.moeller.pl/Documentation/Poradniki/poradnik.pdf
@grabtom I propose to invite an electrician who will: mark the appropriate cables, rebuild the switchgear by connecting both to the appropriate residual-current circuit breaker and 2 or 3-pole overcurrent circuit breaker, and connect the board appropriately marking the cables by inserting them into one box next to the board.

grabtom wrote:

I connect L1, N1 and ground to one cable, and L2, N2 to the other.
Will this connection be correct and will the board be able to use the full power of 7.4 kV?

It is not a threat.
You will use all the power of the hob.
(all the hob's power you'll never need)
The correct fuses are B16 on each wire.

grabtom wrote:

Will such a combination be "art-compatible"?

It will not be in accordance with the art because the board should have a 5 x 25mm cable. and two own fuses.

You will see how amazing it is to cook rice.
Such without "bags".
You put the basmati rice on, watch TV and the rice cooks itself.

Tumiwisizm wrote:

If you want to power a three-phase induction hob, you need to pull the third phase towards it - another wire from the fuse box. Where does this drawing come from, anyway?

There are no three-phase induction plates supplied with 400 V phase-to-phase voltage. All these are plates with 2 or 3 single-phase circuits. The author of the topic clearly wrote in the first post that he can use 2 circuits to connect the induction. It should do as shown in the picture from post # 1. This is the correct connection. As if a 5-wire cable were coming into the induction, then it bridges in induction N as common for L1 and L2. Since this is not the case and it is possible to use two 3x2.5 mm ^ 2 circuits, then connect as shown in the figure with # 1.

emigrant wrote:

As if a 5-wire cable were coming into the induction, then it bridges in induction N as common for L1 and L2.

It is a mistake for this album. The proposed solution is trouble-hunting.

What mistake? In post # 4, the manufacturer presents 3 options for connecting this induction. One is a bridged N for L1 and L2. You mean when the N loosens, the induction will experience interfacial tension? Probably not ... Missing N then the induction will just lose power.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

Please refer to the BOSCH company about the harmfulness. Because in their connection diagrams there is one of the options with a bridgeable N for L1 and L2.

edit:
Well, please, and the post was removed at an express pace by my colleague @c-y-r-u-s.

emigrant wrote:

... when N loosens, the induction will experience interfacial tension ...

And why should it loosen?
Or maybe, according to this theory, the fuse board should be connected to the fuse board by as many neutral wires as many circuits will be led out of it?
And do not forget, colleagues, about the reserve for the future.

I don't know why it should loosen. Ask your friend @c-y-r-u-s, because that's what he meant. He just deleted the post. In total, it also shows a bit from post # 12

emigrant wrote:

What mistake? One is a bridged N for L1 and L2. You mean when the N loosens, the induction will experience interfacial tension? Probably not ... Missing N then the induction will just lose power.

Probably not ? This is how a layman advises his colleague Emigrant?
Disconnect the bridged N plates from the wire clamp to find out.

kkas12 wrote:

And why should it loosen?

Because the connection will not be made by a colleague Kkas12 but a layman.
Please read the posts carefully. In post no.1, the author clearly writes who will connect the disc [TM]
The slats in the box are of very poor quality.
The option of 2 independent N conductors eliminates the possibility of board failure due to looseness of the conductor.

emigrant wrote:

Well, please, and the post was removed at an express pace by my colleague @c-y-r-u-s.

Why - not to be on the public forum.

CYRUS2 wrote:

The option of 2 independent N conductors eliminates the possibility of board failure due to looseness of the conductor.

Can you expand on how it eliminates?
Secondly, from the first post it can be concluded that both wires are protected by separate RCDs.

RCD in the oven circuit in accordance with the standards is not required. Unless it has been attached via a socket.

The theory of two N conductors, in my opinion, is a fairy tale based on the ignorance of Europe and its various standards regarding household power networks.
The producer of these discs knows them very well and that is why he works so that the same disc with the same cable can be connected in Poland and, for example, in Ireland or Great Britain, where one phase reigns in the apartment building.

Now notice how quickly the two-circuit theory collapses for the last two countries, where not only the two N conductors are short-circuited, but also L1 and L2.

The hob or cooker is one device and dividing it into circuits is completely unjustified because they should be protected anyway with a power cut-off switch.
So they should be powered by one circuit.

masonry wrote:

Can you expand on how it eliminates?

I can. This is due to the possibility of a failure.
There is no 2-phase WLZ in the junction box, but two independent single-phase circuits. Failure of the N or phase conductor will not damage the board.
The only possibility of a failure causing damage is a break in the two-phase N WLZ.
The junction box is the only "sensitive" point.
A poorly connected N wire can loosen and burn - it happens.
Canned slats are of poor quality.
Using the connection exactly as in the BOSH diagram

you can get rid of these crash threats.

We have a 5x cable, the number of wires is enough, nothing prevents you from doing so.

And don't forget the T-shirts or the marker, my friend CYRUS

elpapiotr wrote:

And don't forget the T-shirts or the marker, my friend CYRUS

What are you laughing at? You can do that. For example, 2x RCBO (if someone wants there to be an RCD on these circuits), mark the gray conductor as N. For me, this is how the bathroom fan is connected (4x1.5 mm ^ 2), in the sense of the gray conductor at the ends it is marked with a blue t-shirt and does for N.

emigrant wrote:

For example, 2x RCBO (if someone wants there to be an RCD on these circuits) ...

No buddy, you can't do that.
The device is to be powered by one circuit, i.e. it must originate from one device in order to de-energize the device with one device!

grabtom wrote:

Hello.
I have a three-phase connection at home, but unfortunately the 3-phase cable has not been pulled up to the kitchen. There are, however, two separate 1-phase cables:
- one 3x2.5 mm2 cable for a dishwasher, which I do not have - in the switchboard it is protected with a B16 fuse and a 25A differential on one strip
- the second 3x2.5 mm2 cable currently used to connect the refrigerator - in the switching station it is protected with a B16 fuse and a 25A differential on the second strip

The circuit for the dishwasher is intended to supply power to the dishwasher, as is the circuit for a refrigerator, although it may be connected to general outlets in the kitchen.
The induction cooker cannot share the power circuits of other dedicated appliances.
If the circuit to the induction hob has not been connected, it should be simply lead, not miraculously, and create an alternative electrics.

CYRUS2 wrote:

grabtom wrote:

I connect L1, N1 and ground to one cable, and L2, N2 to the other.
Will this connection be correct and will the board be able to use the full power of 7.4 kV?

It is not a threat.
You will use all the power of the hob.
(all the hob's power you'll never need)
The correct fuses are B16 on each wire.

Not true, a board is one device that is intended to be powered by one circuit and protected by a combination switch.

CYRUS2 wrote:

Using the connection exactly as in the BOSH diagram

you can get rid of these crash threats.

I wonder why the factory N terminals are bridged, and the optional N wires are pressed. Your colleague wondered about this? If the manufacturer recommended such a connection, he would not waste money on bridges and presses. Separation of N is just an option.
Yes, you can use the connection you recommend, but not in our reality. The junction box is connected to L1, L2, L3, N and PE. The manufacturer is aware of this, and therefore adjusts the disc to the market in which it will work. The manual is general.

CYRUS2 wrote:

We have a 5x cable, the number of wires is enough, nothing prevents you from doing so.

Yes it will. There is one N in the power cable of the junction box.

CYRUS2 wrote:

You will see how amazing it is to cook rice on it.
Such without "bags".
You put the basmati rice on, watch TV and the rice cooks itself.

It's strange how I used to have an ordinary ceramic rice cooker itself, and I watched TV.