[Solved] Voltage Absence in B25 Overcurrent Circuit Breaker: A Look into 3-Phase Power Failure

I had a power failure on one phase - no voltage in the box in the house in front of the B25 overcurrent circuit breaker. They came from the power industry and checked that the voltage on this phase comes out from the power box outside the building. So what's going on? After all, the supply line was installed new 2 years ago?

The power industry checked on its side to the limit of exploitation. They're fine, so it's your problem. The counter shows all phases?

Yes, the counter indicates all phases L1, L2, L3, no error. At home, I checked the voltage on the phase connection with a phaser, a light bulb and a meter - the conclusion is that there is no 1st phase. Maybe check interfacial? Because if there is a break in the vein, is it a massacre?

Application for unsealing the meter and check if the phase comes out of the meter.
It is not expensive and laborious.

bartekfigura wrote:

The power industry checked on its side to the limit of exploitation. They're fine, so it's your problem. The counter shows all phases?

Well, not everything is OK from the energy side.
Energy should show that everything is OK behind the meter.
The cable exit from the meter is sealed and we don't know if it's from the meter
3 phases come out, or only 2. Everything can be OK for the meter, but the meter
it is owned by the power industry and is sealed and there may be a problem there.
In this case, Mr. from the power industry should take off in our presence
seal on the meter and show us that everything in the meter on the side
reception is OK, and we don't know exactly anything.
Regards. PETER.

That's what the power engineer did: he unsealed the meter and checked - 3 phases come out of the meter, there is also voltage on 3 phases behind the overcurrent switch. C25.

Yeah.
Then you know where to look for breaks.
Unfortunately, digging is not possible if the cable is laid in the ground.
What is the length of this wlz because it may be worth locating the place of damage first

The cable from the power box goes in tubes on the facade of the house and then in the wall and ceiling.
I bought a new meter, measured the voltage on the faulty phase in front of the B25 overcurrent circuit breaker and it turned out to be 230V, so I measured phase-to-phase: 398V - it surprised me, because yesterday there was no voltage, but since there is electricity, I reconnected the power cord part home for this phase, I turned on the esa - there is no electricity: lamps do not light, no electricity in the sockets. What is it about? I measured the voltage on the power supply again: 84V, behind the ES: 84V, phase-to-phase: 200V. I went to check in the box outside the building: I measured the voltage behind the meter on the C25 power supply - 230V on all phases, I measured the voltage at the C25 output to the house - on one phase it was 84V as at home, phase-to-phase 200V. So I turned off the C25 for a few minutes, then turned it back on and measured the voltage at the output of the failed phase from C25, and what? - the voltage returned to 230V. After some time, I measure again on the raised C25 the voltage at the output to the house - again only 84V! My conclusion: defective C25 circuit breaker in the power box outside. Is my diagnosis correct? What's your opinion?

Probably right, but note that there was another diagnosis that also seemed right.
Measurement without load can be misleading.
The measurement of the fault loop impedance will be the most reliable in this case.

It should be done both before and after the problematic C25 circuit breaker, which requires removing the seals.

Hello .
If you have all the phases at the Sa input and 84V at the output, then you have a damaged Sa.

dorfnix wrote:

Well, not everything is OK from the energy side.
Energy should show that everything is OK behind the meter.
The cable exit from the meter is sealed and we don't know if it's from the meter
3 phases come out, or only 2. Everything can be OK for the meter, but the meter
it is owned by the power industry and is sealed and there may be a problem there.
In this case, Mr. from the power industry should take off in our presence
seal on the meter and show us that everything in the meter on the side
reception is OK, and we don't know exactly anything.
Regards. PETER.

If the meter shows the symbol L in the phase, it means that there is this phase. additionally, there is an arrow above the L symbol which shows whether there is a consumption in a given phase. So you don't really need to unseale the meter.

The meters do not give a load so they show the current value but ...... give something loading and it stops working.
If the wire touches the current wire it will show voltage but under load it already gets messy.
You can use an ordinary light bulb as an indicator for testing - and it will turn out whether the eS is damaged.
When you find out that it is eSa's fault, pay attention to whether it is B25 because the current standards in Tauron are used Etimat T --- [can be Etimat T 25A]
a regular es 25A can cost - about PLN 60
Etimat T 25A oscillates around PLN 100

The meter display shows that all 3 phases are present. Behind the meter I have a combined three-phase C25 overcurrent circuit breaker from Hager, as in the attached picture

Also, which track is bad?

Black wire

What is the problem to check with the light bulb control whether there is a transition to S at the input and output relative to Na.

kkas12 wrote:

Also, which track is bad?

Eyemax wrote:

Black wire

Now specify where you checked the lack of voltage on black.

eyemax you are so frugal with information that you probably don't care about solving the problem...
Black and CO wire you are waiting for the next question or solution and if you wrote like this ... "There is no voltage on the black wire, I checked the voltage before the C25 switch and there all phases are/are not one phase *

*Choose the correct answer

In fact, it is not known whether there is no voltage on the black wire behind the camera or maybe at home ... :roll:

Don't write casually.

I wonder what kind of cable it is since, as you can see, black and gray wires are run in one conduit and blue and brown in the other and there is no coating.

And what's going on, the switch is leaking, that there is a rusty coating on the L3 track on the gray wire ;)

Eyemax wrote:

upstream of the B25 circuit breaker

I wonder what this switch is for .... if as a disconnector, you can imagine the entire installation

It looks like an inkobex meter connector - and that's all we can say (write) on the basis of information from the interested party.
I wonder what the problem is to replace eS with another one and spr. does the problem still occur?
If there was a photo of the whole thing, it would be possible to say whether RBK OO is sealed and whether it is necessary to work in PPN or not.
And so let's keep going

I measured 84V on the black cable at the exit from the middle protection to the house. Everything is fine on the RBKs - there are 230 V at the input and output on 3 phases. The C25 switch was probably damaged by water getting into it or by an overvoltage, because recently the power industry replaced the poles with round ones and they were short power outages. Unfortunately, water has collected in the box (about 0.5 l at the bottom of the box). So far, I have not been able to locate how it gets there. Of course, the electrician claims that he assembled everything tightly, and yet ... rust on the gray phase wire and on the clamps under the fuse say too much (sic!) The guy from the power industry, when he saw it, said that if it continues like this, it will I've had electrical equipment burn out. in the box! I need to find where the leak is and seal it and drill a small hole in the bottom of the box to let this water run off. First, the electrician who connected it said that it was the water vapor that condensed on cold days - unless the electricity caressed him, because I don't believe in such fairy tales.

The easiest way is to connect the black wire, swap places with the right or left and see if the same or different phase is missing and everything will be clear.

The conversation lasts 3 days - I wonder how you manage the 3rd day without phase 1
Change this eS to a new one and after the trouble.

Cool, I survived without 1 phase, because I reconnected the second part of the house to the third phase, which was free for me (old building in the 1930s, extension in the 1960s), because my whole house is divided into two phases - in the near future I will have to make a whole new electrical installation on the occasion of the renovation of the floor, then I will use all 3 phases. 3 years ago I had only 1 phase, but when my fuses started to burn every 3 days, I invested in a 3-phase connection.
The electrician botched the job - he installed the box in such a way that water got inside through the hole for the screw fastening to the wall during rainfall. The three-phase fuse was then flooded with water flowing down the power cable (in the photo)



I replaced this circuit breaker and there is 230V on all phases in the house and sealed the box - fixed.
Of course, the electrician who installed it said that his warranty expired last year (24 months) and does not recognize my complaint, because I saw him assemble the box and did not pay attention to it (what a cheek) and he will not refund any costs repair - is it ok?

At the moment and the situation, take some time and check carefully if the ZK is well sealed and re-inspect after rainfall.
As the water will no longer collect, you have peace of mind with this protection.
In the photo above you can see a drop of water on the line from L2 - spr. what could be the reason.

And I am very interested in what and how should be messed up in the connector and meter cabinet so that water flows into it?

Krzysztof, the only thing that comes to my mind is the ZK set too close to the road, someone hooked the car and it turned out that the roof was tilted and the walls and the roof did not break - I have already met such a case.

Only the author mentioned somewhere that the cupboard stands against the wall of the building.
Well, but wires or cables have to be led out of the box somehow.

Eyemax wrote:

The C25 circuit breaker has probably failed

I see that you are from Silesia and the box is not old, so I'm a little surprised that you have a C25A switch there, in my opinion there should be a 25A power limiter there .... good time to "fix" it, you will get selective protection.

Eyemax wrote:

I need to find where the leak is and seal it and drill a small hole in the bottom of the box,

I suspect that the box is hanging, the wires to the switch go up, that's where I would start looking for a leak ... by the way, the wires going to the house are too thin (for PEN) if the power supply is TN-C and at their end B25A for this these leaks ..... something weak was the specialist who assembled it.

Added after 6 [minutes]:

EDIT:

Eyemax wrote:

The electrician botched the job - he installed the box in such a way that water got inside through the hole for the screw fastening to the wall during rainfall. The three-phase fuse was then flooded with water flowing down the power cable (in the photo) [url=https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/5801851600_1549802792.jpg]

I didn't read the part explaining the leaks

Yes, the box is hanging. I told the electrician that these protections in the B25 house are too high, because I do not have such a high current consumption on a given phase and I have an old electrical installation, but he was "smarter". Maverix123 could you explain to me in a simple way why I should have a 25A power limiter and not a C25A circuit breaker?

Added after 8 [minutes]:

Maverix123 but I don't think 5x10 home wires are too thin. The installation inside the building is currently of the TN-S type

Eyemax wrote:

that these protections in the B25 house are too high, because I do not have such a high current consumption on a given phase and I have an old electrical installation,

So they need to be replaced as soon as possible and adapted to the installation.

Eyemax wrote:

Maverix123 could you explain to me in a simple way why I should have a 25A power limiter and not a C25A circuit breaker

Because it gives you the comfort of use that your energy supplier allows, with C25 in the event of a short circuit, the protection at home will work and it is at the meter that you will be completely deprived of power. In the event of a short-circuit, the protection of the circuit will work with the limiter.

Eyemax wrote:

that the 5x10 house wires are too thin

The cross-section of the wires is most appropriate if it is actually 10mm2, although after the photos shown, I would be more inclined to say that it is 6mm2

10mm2, but it's not the thickness it used to be under the People's Republic of Poland. In front of the meter in the box, according to the recommendations of the power company, I have BM 40A protection with a lever.