Dual-function ovens, e.g. Termet ecocondens, reduced temperature setting

jaskul wrote:

Damn, it would be pointless if the manufacturer of the boiler and its software did not provide information on what causes a change in some setting parameter.

these options are intended for the service technician, and the user would preferably set only the temperature he wants in the room on the room regulator and that's all.

jaskul wrote:

but I can't believe that no Termet service technician has this knowledge because it would be downright ridiculous.

Have you asked several service technicians?
If you have not received an answer, ask the manufacturer, call or write an e-mail and the matter should be clarified without any trials or tests.

The person who installed the stove, an authorized Termet service, provided detailed information that this cannot be regulated. I thought that there would be a more "enlightened" specialist here. The idea of sending an e-mail to the manufacturer is good - I will try to write it.

In my case, the service technicians who installed my Vaillant told me that I should not change anything except the water temperature in the boiler and the temperature on the room regulator.
On the one hand, I understand them, but on the other hand, I like to know everything about the equipment I use and I am not an ordinary Kowalski, but a more inquisitive Kowalski with a technical flair.

jaskul wrote:

I thought there would be a more "enlightened" specialist here.

I am an amateur who has an atmospheric Vaillant, and the rest is my knowledge from my private experience, or analysis of boiler installation instructions, etc.
Yes, there are professionals here, but they don't always contribute, so don't treat Elektroda as if only service technicians are commenting here, because in my opinion, most of the posts are generated by amateurs interested in the topic.

Has anyone managed to find out what changes parameter P08?

What boiler you ask?

ECOCONDENS SILVER

jaskul wrote:

Damn, it would be pointless if the manufacturer of the boiler and its software did not provide information on what causes a change in some setting parameter. I understand if the boiler was some invention imported from the other hemisphere, but it is a normal model from Polish distribution, so it is absurd. Of course, you can do it by trial and observation... but I can't believe that no Termet service technician has such knowledge because it would be downright ridiculous.

The manual attached to the topic says:
"P08 Heating type 0 / 1 (0 traditional, 1 - underfloor)" Which means nothing else than the range of temperatures that can be selected on the boiler display when setting "0" to traditional heating, it will be a high parameter/range of 40-85 degrees at "1" floor it will be a low parameter of 25-50 degrees. The temperature range may be different due to the possibility of setting a maximum temperature limit (I set a maximum temperature of 45 for underfloor heating).
The available temperatures may differ slightly because I set it a year ago and I don't remember, but the principle is simple - if a lower supply temperature is enough or you have an underfloor heating system, always set "1" because at a lower boiler operating temperature there is greater condensation. To take advantage of all this, it is best for the boiler to work with weather control a thermostat as a temperature limiter with a not very precise setting of the heating curve (sometimes people have problems with selecting the perfect heating curve for the entire season)

e_majsterkowicz wrote:

The manual attached to the topic says:
"P08 Heating type 0 / 1 (0 traditional, 1 - underfloor)" Which means nothing else than the range of temperatures that can be selected on the boiler display when setting "0" to traditional heating, it will be a high parameter/range of 40-85 degrees at "1" floor it will be a low parameter of 25-50 degrees. The temperature range may be different due to the possibility of setting a maximum temperature limit (I set a maximum temperature of 45 for underfloor heating).
The available temperatures may differ slightly because I set it a year ago and I don't remember, but the principle is simple - if a lower supply temperature is enough or you have an underfloor heating system, always set "1" because at a lower boiler operating temperature there is greater condensation. To take advantage of all this, it is best for the boiler to work with weather control + a thermostat as a temperature limiter with a not very precise setting of the heating curve (sometimes people have problems with selecting the perfect heating curve for the entire season)

My friend is wrong in the ECOCONDENS SILVER instructions:
"P08 Limitation of central heating temperature increase"

BUCKS wrote:

Lowering the temperature range doesn't really change anything, but the fact that you have the option to set the boiler to e.g. 25 degrees doesn't mean that you'll be able to get that much.
What the operating temperature will be depends largely on your installation.
In theory, the boiler has a minimum power of 3kW, but if you set e.g. 25 degrees, it may turn out that the boiler will reach 25 degrees within the first seconds of operation and the burner will turn off. You must have adequate water flow through the boiler so that the water in the boiler does not overheat and, as a result, the burner does not turn off.

I have a problem that when I set the floor heating (the only installation I have at home) to 30, within 5 seconds the temperature at the outlet reaches 35 and the stove is turned off for 3 minutes (the radiator flashes), then it turns on again and so on. that the return time is e.g. only 24-25. Sometimes it happens that the output does not exceed 34 and then it drops a bit and works with a temperature of 33C even though it is set to 30C. It's probably not good that the burner turns on every now and then and the stove starts. When I started the season, I set the floor to 25C and the outlet water was at 25C, when it reached about 24C on the return, the burner was turned off and the pump only ran, when it dropped it returned to 25C and the burner was running again with the desired temperature of 25C. How to solve this problem so that the stove runs at 30C? The service technician has already been there twice, now he adjusted something in the service center and reduced the power to 20% and still the same. He said he didn't know why and that he had to go to a higher temperature, like 35C.
The stove is ecocondens Gold plus 25 kW.

Ajronix wrote:

I have a problem that when I set the floor heating (the only installation I have at home) to 30, within 5 seconds the temperature at the outlet reaches 35 and the stove is turned off for 3 minutes (the radiator flashes), then it turns on again and so on. that the return time is e.g. only 24-25. Sometimes it happens that the output does not exceed 34 and then it drops a bit and works with a temperature of 33C even though it is set to 30C. It's probably not good that the burner turns on every now and then and the stove starts. When I started the season, I set the floor to 25C and the outlet water was at 25C, when it reached about 24C on the return, the burner was turned off and the pump only ran, when it dropped it returned to 25C and the burner was running again with the desired temperature of 25C. How to solve this problem so that the stove runs at 30C? The service technician has already been there twice, now he adjusted something in the service center and reduced the power to 20% and still the same. He said he didn't know why and that he had to go to a higher temperature, like 35C.
The stove is ecocondens Gold plus 25 kW.

I had the same thing, change the P32 parameter to 3 or 4 s
i.e. how long it should work at starting power

Ajronix wrote:

I have a problem like this

Not enough data about the installation, but BUCKS already wrote that one of the reasons is the flow. Describe the house and the installation, you can also post photos of the installation, mainly how the boiler is connected to the manifolds.

norbikk wrote:

change parameter P32 to 3 or 4 s

And isn't P24 sometimes responsible for the time?

Norbikk confuses boiler models.

bro2004 wrote:

Norbikk confuses boiler models.

I'm not confusing anything, you just don't distinguish the names and models of furnaces and you "service" them by heart. The topic is about Termet ecocondens, i.e. ECOCONDENS SILVER - 20 -25 -35
Link and as the instructions for use of this furnace say 32 0 ÷ 30 Burner operating time at start power in central heating mode

norbikk wrote:

I'm not confusing anything, you just don't distinguish the names and models of furnaces and you "service" them by heart.

Ajronix wrote:

The stove is ecocondens Gold plus 25 kW.

However, we read the post we are responding to more carefully, and the fact that it is not in the right topic is another matter.

Ajronix wrote:

I have a problem that when I set the floor heating (the only installation I have at home) to 30, within 5 seconds the temperature at the outlet reaches 35 and the stove is turned off for 3 minutes (the radiator flashes).

according to instructions from Gold from 2016:
- parameter P20 is a hysteresis set in the range of 0-10, and by default it is set to 5 degrees, i.e. if you set 30 degrees, the boiler will turn off the heating when it reaches a temperature 5 degrees higher, i.e. 35 degrees.
- under the P25 code you have the L3 lock value set in the range of 1-60 minutes, and by default you have 3 minutes.
This explains why the boiler heats up to 35 degrees even though you set it to 30.

Under the P00 code you have set the starting power, you can read the value there.
In turn, under the P24 code you have the coasting time at starting power set in the range of 2-30 seconds, and the factory value is 20 seconds.
If the boiler reaches 35 degrees within 5 seconds and the burner turns off, change P24 to the minimum value, i.e. 2 seconds, and see how this affects the operation of the boiler and how much the burner operation cycle increases.
Before you change anything, record or write down the values you had originally, otherwise you will return to the starting point.

I provide the data from the manual from 2016, and I don't know if Termet has changed anything in the meantime and whether these parameters are different in newer versions of Gold.

Wojtermet25 wrote:

Describe the house and the installation, you can also post photos of the installation, mainly how the boiler is connected to the manifolds.

norbikk wrote:

I had the same thing, change the P32 parameter to 3 or 4 s
i.e. how long it should work at starting power

As for the P24 parameter, the run-on time at the starting power for operation in the central heating circuit is 4 seconds. Can I change it to 2-3 seconds without or not much?

BUCKS wrote:

Under the P00 code you have set the starting power, you can read the value there.

In turn, under the P24 code you have the coasting time at starting power set in the range of 2-30 seconds, and the factory value is 20 seconds.
If the boiler reaches 35 degrees within 5 seconds and the burner turns off, change P24 to the minimum value, i.e. 2 seconds, and see how this affects the operation of the boiler and how much the burner operation cycle increases.

I wonder about parameter 1 - it is as high as 40. But to reduce it, an exhaust gas analysis is necessary? And parameter 4 is 1900, and on the side it says that to achieve the minimum boiler power you need to achieve 1200 revolutions, and here the minimum is set to 1900. And the situation happens as in the video:



In this video, the coal stove reacts poorly to temperature changes, but I think this is due to the low power setting, but as you can see in the video, the fan starts running at higher power only after a long delay, as if it was unable to modulate.



The furnace was inspected today, the three-way valve and the pump were removed and checked, the service technician did not find any irregularities, and the water was released through the heat exchanger, there were no visible problems with the flow. The temperature sensor was changed, but it didn't help either. The service technician finally said that it had to be like that, but the return time was only 24 hours, so he should be fine on 29 hours. Correct?

Ajronix wrote:

As for the P24 parameter, the run-on time at the starting power for operation in the central heating circuit is 4 seconds. Can I change it to 2-3 seconds without or not much?

You can, or even must, check whether this will change anything in the boiler's operating culture.

Ajronix wrote:

I wonder about parameter 1 - it is as high as 40. But to reduce it, an exhaust gas analysis is necessary?

an exhaust gas analyzer is not needed for take-off power.
According to the instructions, P01=25, so I would change it to 25 for testing.
If the boiler starts up explosively, raise the P01 parameter.

Water heating in the boiler depends on, among others: from the water flow through the boiler.
To increase the water flow, you need to increase the efficiency of the pump.
Set P14 and P18 to 99, this should force the pump to operate at constant 100% capacity.

Do a test with these parameters and write how it will change the boiler's operating characteristics, i.e. after how long will the burner go out?

If this does not cause the boiler to run continuously, I would be inclined to think that your installation is screwed up.
You can further try to increase the P20 hysteresis to increase the burner shutdown threshold.
If you set the hysteresis to 10, at the set 29 degrees, the burner will turn off at 39. Maybe this is enough for the water temperature in the boiler to drop and stabilize.

@Ajronix and what about this boiler, is there an improvement after changing the parameters?
You didn't write or take photos for fun, did you?