Hello For some time now I have been looking for a solution to move the light switches without breaking or pulling the wires. I t find it. Can anyone help and advise how to do it? Thank you in advance ! Currently there are switches: I would like them to be: Video of the route to follow:

Name: How to move light switches without pulling wires? WiFi/Bluetooth drivers
Uploaded: 2019-10-28T08:58:48+01:00
Description: Hello For some time now I have been looking for a solution to move the light switches without breaking or pulling the wires. I t find it. Can anyone help and advise how to do it? Thank you in advance ! Currently there are switches: I would like them to be: Video of the route to follow:

Here`s the switch itself And here you have a box controller for it I think there are also double ones, look for them. [edit] In addition, you can also add a remote control of this or that type ->

Or from Castorama. Probably other construction companies also offer similar ones.

Something like this for example:

It doesn`t look all that rosy. There you need a neutral wire - 0, which is not included in the switch boxes.

It`s probably about connecting the receiver in the place of the current switch. From what I know, there are also receivers that do not require an additional neutral wire and operate in series with the lamp. For example something like this:

If there is a junctionless installation, zero is in the switch box in the form of a loop. If there is a box installation, zero is in the junction box and should be connected there.

There`s just not always room in the can. Sometimes you can mount receivers on the lamp itself.

Or you can install light sources controlled wirelessly from a remote control, e.g. OSRAM LED STAR+. And stick the remote control to the wall.

I recently installed something like this, and it works for now Regards

I confirm, unless I have power and drain under the switch.

Or you can use two-wire receivers that do not need zero, for example the one I mentioned in post #7.

How to move light switches without pulling wires? WiFi/Bluetooth drivers

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#1 18243693 28 Oct 2019 08:58

kwaziu kwaziu

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Post #1
18243693 28 Oct 2019 08:58

Hello
For some time now I have been looking for a solution to move the light switches without breaking or pulling the wires.
I`ve heard about controllers that control the lights via Wi-Fi, Bluetooth or radio, but I can`t find it. Can anyone help and advise how to do it? Thank you in advance !

Currently there are switches:

I would like them to be:

Video of the route to follow:
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#2 18243709 28 Oct 2019 09:12

bubu1769 bubu1769

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Post #2
18243709 28 Oct 2019 09:12

Something like this for example:
https://www.tomito.pl/product-pol-2494-Bezprz...owy-bezbateryjny-wlacznik-swiatla-LINBEL.html
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#3 18243710 28 Oct 2019 09:12

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #3
18243710 28 Oct 2019 09:12

Here`s the switch itself
https://orno-sklep.pl/wlacznik-pojedynczy-orno-or-sh-1710-sterowany-bezprzewodowo-p-961.html

And here you have a box controller for it

https://orno-sklep.pl/wlacznik-podtynkowy-orno-or-sh-1705-sterowany-bezprzewodowo-p-956.html

https://orno-sklep.pl/wlacznik-podtynkowy-on-...or-sh-1704-sterowany-bezprzewodowo-p-955.html

I think there are also double ones, look for them.

[edit]
In addition, you can also add a remote control of this or that type -> https://orno-sklep.pl/2-kanalowy-pilot-zdanych-sterowania-orno-or-sh-1708-p-959.html
Helpful post

#4 18243787 28 Oct 2019 09:54

ak44 ak44

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Post #4
18243787 28 Oct 2019 09:54

Or from Castorama.

Probably other construction companies also offer similar ones.
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#5 18243949 28 Oct 2019 11:14

stanislaw1954 stanislaw1954

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18243949 28 Oct 2019 11:14

It doesn`t look all that rosy. There you need a neutral wire - "0", which is not included in the switch boxes.
#6 18243951 28 Oct 2019 11:16

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #6
18243951 28 Oct 2019 11:16

stanislaw1954 wrote:
... There you need a neutral wire - "0", which is not included in the switch boxes.

"There" means where?
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#7 18243957 28 Oct 2019 11:19

bubu1769 bubu1769

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18243957 28 Oct 2019 11:19

It`s probably about connecting the receiver in the place of the current switch.
From what I know, there are also receivers that do not require an additional neutral wire and operate in series with the lamp.
For example something like this:
https://www.conrad.pl/p/bezprzewodowy-przycisk-rsl-sygonix-sy-3523476-1-szt-1761738
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#8 18243962 28 Oct 2019 11:22

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #8
18243962 28 Oct 2019 11:22

bubu1769 wrote:
It`s probably about connecting the receiver in the place of the current switch.
From what I know, these receivers do not require an additional neutral wire and operate in series with the lamp.

If there is a junctionless installation, zero is "in the switch box" in the form of a loop. If there is a box installation, zero is in the junction box and should be connected there.
#9 18243968 28 Oct 2019 11:24

bubu1769 bubu1769

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Post #9
18243968 28 Oct 2019 11:24

There`s just not always room in the can.
Sometimes you can mount receivers on the lamp itself.
#10 18245219 28 Oct 2019 21:30

riddyk riddyk

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Post #10
18245219 28 Oct 2019 21:30

Or you can install light sources controlled wirelessly from a remote control, e.g. OSRAM LED STAR+. And stick the remote control to the wall.
#11 18247125 29 Oct 2019 21:25

adamko adamko

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Post #11
18247125 29 Oct 2019 21:25

https://www.elektrobim.pl/sklep/zdalny-wlacznik-urzadzen-230v-elektro-remote-230v/

I recently installed something like this, and it works for now
Regards
#12 18247751 30 Oct 2019 09:07

Magic_moon Magic_moon

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18247751 30 Oct 2019 09:07

stanislaw1954 wrote:
It doesn`t look all that rosy. There you need a neutral wire - "0", which is not included in the switch boxes.

I confirm, unless I have power and drain under the switch.
#13 18247753 30 Oct 2019 09:10

bubu1769 bubu1769

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18247753 30 Oct 2019 09:10

Or you can use two-wire receivers that do not need zero, for example the one I mentioned in post #7.
#14 18247776 30 Oct 2019 09:20

ak44 ak44

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Post #14
18247776 30 Oct 2019 09:20

Turn the current switch to the on position and you have phase and neutral in the lamp. You install the receiver in the lamp.
#15 18266191 08 Nov 2019 19:22

Anonymous Anonymous

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Post #15
18266191 08 Nov 2019 19:22

I would just like to know whether the author chose something, what he chose, whether he installed it and whether it meets his expectations.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around solutions for relocating light switches without the need for rewiring. Users suggest various wireless controllers that operate via Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, or radio frequencies. Recommendations include specific products such as the LINBEL wireless switch, ORNO wireless switches and controllers, and OSRAM LED STAR+ light sources. Some responses highlight the necessity of a neutral wire for certain installations, while others mention two-wire receivers that do not require a neutral connection. Users also discuss the possibility of installing receivers directly in light fixtures and using remote controls for operation. The conversation emphasizes the importance of compatibility with existing wiring setups and the potential for junction box installations.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Move a light switch with 0 extra wires using two‑wire wireless receivers — "receivers that do not require an additional neutral wire" — installed in series with the lamp; pair a stick‑on wall switch or remote. For renters and renovators. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243957]

Why it matters: You avoid wall chasing, keep existing cabling, and place switches anywhere.

Two‑wire receivers: 0 neutral conductors needed at the switch; install in series with the lamp. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243957]
Many switch boxes lack neutral; plan for lamp or junction‑box placement if needed. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #18243949]
Tight box? Mount the receiver at the lamp canopy to gain space. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243968]
Batteryless stick‑on wall switches exist; no batteries to replace. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243709]
Example spec: 230 V remote‑switch kits reported working in practice. [Elektroda, adamko, post #18247125]

Quick Facts

Two‑wire receivers: 0 neutral conductors needed at the switch; install in series with the lamp. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243957]
Many switch boxes lack neutral; plan for lamp or junction‑box placement if needed. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #18243949]
Tight box? Mount the receiver at the lamp canopy to gain space. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243968]
Batteryless stick‑on wall switches exist; no batteries to replace. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243709]
Example spec: 230 V remote‑switch kits reported working in practice. [Elektroda, adamko, post #18247125]

How can I move a light switch without pulling new wires?

Install a two‑wire wireless receiver in series with the lamp and add a wall transmitter. These modules “do not require an additional neutral wire” at the switch. They operate with the existing two conductors between switch and lamp. Place the transmitter wherever you want. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243957]

Do I need a neutral wire in the switch box?

Many in‑wall receivers need a neutral. “There you need a neutral wire,” and many switch boxes lack it. Without neutral at the switch, those modules cannot be installed there. Choose no‑neutral designs or place control elsewhere in the circuit. [Elektroda, stanislaw1954, post #18243949]

Where do I put the receiver if there’s no space behind the switch?

Mount the receiver at the lamp when the box is shallow or crowded. Many compact receivers fit inside a luminaire canopy. This avoids carving walls and keeps the original cabling intact. Pair it with your preferred wall transmitter. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243968]

What’s a simple kit to start with?

Use matched parts from one series. Example: ORNO OR‑SH‑1710 wall switch with OR‑SH‑1705 or OR‑SH‑1704 in‑box receivers. They provide basic wireless on/off control without new wiring. You can expand with brand‑compatible accessories later. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18243710]

Are batteryless, stick‑on wall switches an option?

Yes. Batteryless wireless switches (e.g., LINBEL) pair with a receiver and harvest energy from the press. You avoid battery changes and can mount them anywhere with adhesive. This is ideal for rented spaces. [Elektroda, bubu1769, post #18243709]

Can I add a handheld remote control?

Yes. The ORNO lineup includes a 2‑channel handheld remote that pairs with their receivers. Control two circuits or scenes from one fob. Wall‑mount the holder if you prefer a fixed location. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18243710]

How do I handle junctionless vs. junction‑box wiring?

Identify where neutral is available. In junctionless wiring, “zero is in the switch box in the form of a loop.” With junction boxes, neutral is in the box and connections belong there. Select products to match your topology. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #18243962]

Quick 3‑step: How do I add a no‑neutral receiver at the lamp?

Turn the existing wall switch ON permanently.
Install the wireless receiver in the lamp fitting or canopy.
Pair your new wall transmitter or remote per the manual. “Turn the current switch to the on position and you have phase and neutral in the lamp.” [Elektroda, ak44, post #18247776]

Can I avoid in‑wall work entirely?

Yes. Swap in smart bulbs controlled by a remote, like OSRAM LED STAR+. Stick the remote to the wall and treat it like a switch. No changes to fixed wiring are needed. [Elektroda, riddyk, post #18245219]

Does this work on 230 V mains?

Yes. A user installed a 230 V remote‑switch kit (Elektro‑Remote 230V) and reported success. Choose a kit rated for your mains voltage and follow the manual. [Elektroda, adamko, post #18247125]

Should I leave the old switch ON after adding wireless control?

Yes. Set the legacy switch to ON to feed the lamp and receiver continuously. “Turn the current switch to the on position and you have phase and neutral in the lamp.” This avoids accidental module power cuts. [Elektroda, ak44, post #18247776]

Will two‑wire receivers cause LED flicker, and how do I fix it?

Some low‑wattage LED loads can flicker or glow with no‑neutral modules. Many vendors recommend a small “bypass” across the lamp to stabilize current. Example: Shelly 1L specifies using the Shelly Bypass for low loads. Add the bypass if your LEDs misbehave. [“Shelly 1L - User Guide”]

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