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Troubleshooting Gurgling Radiator on 4th Floor Apartment: Valve & Vent Tips

Norbert Chrobot11 31491 28
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How do I stop a bathroom radiator on the top floor from gurgling and heating poorly?

Bleed the radiator first: close the supply valve, leave the return open, and vent at the top until only water comes out; that should stop the gurgling if it is caused by trapped air [#18328452][#18337934] If the noise continues and the apartment is on the top floor, have the building administration check the central-heating water level/pressure and top it up, because low system water can cause this symptom [#18329403] Several replies also suspect the radiator is plumbed so the water is bypassing it through the two vertical pipes, so the return/balancing valve may need adjustment or the connection may need to be corrected [#18335314][#18335612]
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  • #1 18328374
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
    Posts: 281
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    Hello.
    I've been having problems with my radiators for a while now. I live on the 4th floor of a block of flats. The gurgling radiator is in the bathroom (separate riser for the radiator in the bathroom). There is also a valve for closing and opening the flow in the upper right corner (unscrewed to the max). There is a vent on the top left.
    I'll post pictures of the whole setup on Wednesday.
    Thank you.
    Goodbye.
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  • #2 18328452
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
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    Norbert Chrobot11 wrote:
    There is a vent on the top left.
    Bleed the radiator and it will stop gurgling, unless the air is outside the radiator and the radiator acts as a loudspeaker - you can hear a sound from it that travels through the pipes.
  • #3 18328754
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
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    It is a sound similar to water pouring in steel pipes. Just venting the air vent does nothing. How about draining all the water from the radiator with it turned off???
  • #4 18329003
    Wojtermet25
    Level 30  
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    If air has actually accumulated somewhere in the pipes, such a treatment in the form of a rapid flow to an empty radiator can help. If you are sure of the tightness of the valves and the quick possibility of closing, you can even unscrew the vent and then unscrew one of the valves for a moment and then the other because you do not know which pipe is air.
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  • #5 18329351
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
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    Thank you for the hints. I'll try to check it out Wednesday night and let you know.
  • #6 18329403
    homo_sapiens
    Level 24  
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    Norbert Chrobot11 wrote:
    It is a sound similar to water pouring in steel pipes. Just venting the air vent does nothing.

    If this is the top floor, the cause may be low water in the central heating system. Such a problem usually occurs when a period of low external temperatures is followed by total warming. A phenomenon known from physics: the volume of water depends on its temperature. Leaks in the heating system in the building can also cause this problem. Report to the administration, which should top up the water in the heat exchanger. Just don't be fooled that they're fine.
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  • #7 18329475
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
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    homo_sapiens wrote:
    If this is the top floor, the cause may be low water in the central heating system. Such a problem usually occurs when a period of low outside temperatures is followed by total warming.
    But I would put it differently. This is a problem when there is a period of low temperatures and suddenly everyone opens the radiators (and they had them turned off when filling the installation), then there is no water in the system or the pressure is too low. The rest to administration.
  • #8 18334484
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
    Posts: 281
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    Hello.
    Yesterday I started draining the water from the radiator. I turned off the valve (brown color - attachment 1) and unscrewed the valve (black color - attachment 1). The water flew and flew. I didn't let it go all the way. I suspect that I may not have turned off all the valves yet. For example, the valve (orange and yellow were open all the time - attachment 1).
    As for attachment number 2, it is a pipe whose elbows are just entering the radiator and there is also a half-and-half valve there in the middle (black color - attachment 2).
    Thank you.
    Goodbye.
    Attachments:
    • Troubleshooting Gurgling Radiator on 4th Floor Apartment: Valve & Vent Tips Załącznik 1.jpg (195.54 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Troubleshooting Gurgling Radiator on 4th Floor Apartment: Valve & Vent Tips Załącznik 3.jpg (208.55 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
    • Troubleshooting Gurgling Radiator on 4th Floor Apartment: Valve & Vent Tips Załącznik 2.jpg (56.31 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #9 18334626
    Wojtermet25
    Level 30  
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    And what are these two pipes in parallel with the radiator vertically?
    Did it ever serve as a heater?
    What does the return from this new radiator look like because it is not visible in the picture?
    Are these tubes plugged somehow, or are they still heating, because maybe most of the water flows through them?
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  • #10 18335098
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
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    The 2 tubes that are parallel to each other are either outflow or inflow tubes (hard to tell). They are definitely warm.
    The tube marked in turquoise (attachment 2) - it goes to the kitchen (also to the radiator). The pipe underneath is the pipe from the gas to the stove. In the past, there was no radiator in this bathroom, only pipes, and from what I remember they were warm in winter.
    The entrance to the new radiator is marked in brown (Appendix 1), and the exit (I think) - in orange (Appendix 1). From the "outlet" of the radiator, the pipe goes to the valve marked in black (Annex 3).
    In fact, all the pipes around the radiator are warm.

    I will add that on Friday I will try to drain the water again.
  • #11 18335137
    Wojtermet25
    Level 30  
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    Something is slowly clearing up. Write more or give a photo of the place where the return of this radiator is connected. There are probably cloths hanging there and you can't see them. And where are the lower ends of these 2 vertical tubes connected?

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    Norbert Chrobot11 wrote:
    In fact, all the pipes around the radiator are warm.

    I suspect that's the culprit here ?
    The water flows through these vertical tubes because it is easier for her than to tangle around the radiator.
  • #12 18335314
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
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    If it was connected "crosswise", i.e. power supply in the upper right corner and return in the lower left corner, it would certainly work better. Probably the heating medium goes (straight) from top to bottom, bypassing the horizontal tubes in the radiator. Theoretically, with a one-sided connection (supply and return on one side - supply up, return - down), the radiator should heat, but slightly less than with a cross connection. Is mating checked? Is this 4th floor the last floor in the building or not? It may be that the radiator is too tight and the water does not want to flow over it. On the top floor, you can successfully set the initial setting (crimping) for a large passage.
  • #13 18335425
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
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    The exit from the radiator in the lower right corner is a tube that only goes through the wall and is connected to a vertical tube (attachment 3) to an open valve.
    The ends of these two vertical tubes, parallel to each other, go into the floor (I still don't know where they go).
    Yes. The 4th floor is the last floor of the block.
    What does crossing and crossing mean?
  • #14 18335440
    Wojtermet25
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    And is there a valve at the bottom of these vertical tubes to shut them off or restrict the flow?
  • #15 18335475
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
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    Norbert Chrobot11 wrote:
    The exit from the radiator in the lower right corner is a tube that only goes through the wall and is connected to a vertical tube (attachment 3) to an open valve.
    The ends of these two vertical tubes, parallel to each other, go into the floor (I still don't know where they go).
    Yes. The 4th floor is the last floor of the block.
    What does crossing and crossing mean?

    It's not about crossing, but about connecting "cross" (i.e. cross), i.e. diagonally (supply in the upper corner of the radiator and return to the lower - on the opposite side). Orifice is something else, namely to delimit the flow through the radiator (to balance the installation). In the past orifices, which were a brass disc with a hole of a certain diameter, were inserted into the unions in the past (hence the name orifices), and now no orifices are inserted, but the flow capacity on the valve is adjusted accordingly (after removing the thermostatic head, it is possible to make an initial setting in most valves).
  • #16 18335612
    roman 18
    Level 24  
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    My friend
    this radiator will not heat until you insert a valve to cut off the flow through these tubes from which the radiator is connected. In this situation, the heat bypasses the radiator because it is easier than pushing into the radiator. the valve should be below the welded central vent on the pipe closer to the corner of the wall. best regards.
  • #17 18335653
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
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    How would you show more precisely in the pictures how you have welded ends from the radiator to these thick pipes. And for the future, do not specify the points with a color, for example a number, because the color is not always displayed correctly.
  • #18 18335707
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
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    For these tubes there is only this open valve (attachment - valve underlined in black).
    The pipe in the lower right corner of the radiator is a pipe that goes only through the wall and is welded into a vertical pipe with a half-open valve. However, the upper pipe with the main valve is welded below the open, underlined valve with one end into a thick pipe, and with the other it goes through the wall and with an elbow enters a vertical pipe with one open valve.
    Attachments:
    • Troubleshooting Gurgling Radiator on 4th Floor Apartment: Valve & Vent Tips 2019-12-12 19.29.00.jpg (224.35 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #19 18335740
    roman 18
    Level 24  
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    Buddy, if you could show how the return of this radiator is welded, it would be great. best regards.
  • #20 18335741
    Wojtermet25
    Level 30  
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    Sorry, but I don't get it anymore.

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    Take a piece of paper and try to draw a diagram. Only the pipes and valves and this radiator are important. And describe it on the diagram, because I can't work it out from the pictures.
  • #21 18336001
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
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    Norbert Chrobot11 wrote:
    underlined valve
    And don't color only numbers (as I asked). You can take pictures of the valves (supply valve and return valve) on the radiator only so that you can also see the place of welding with vertical pipes (slight close-up and not so far away).
  • #22 18336918
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
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    Is it something like this?
    Attachments:
    • Troubleshooting Gurgling Radiator on 4th Floor Apartment: Valve & Vent Tips 20191213_113304-1.jpg (1.8 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #23 18337103
    Norbert Chrobot11
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    Do you already know something?
  • #24 18337487
    roman 18
    Level 24  
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    Buddy, it's a bit hard to understand, but in my opinion, with such a connection, it will not heat well, and the gurgling will be until the air is expelled from this radiator. You showed a valve down there that is supposedly partially unscrewed, but is it above this return connection or maybe on the return? best regards.
  • #25 18337869
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
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    This valve is attached to the return from the radiator.
  • #26 18337934
    roman 18
    Level 24  
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    Buddy, if this valve is on the return, it should be open to the max, but to bleed this radiator, turn off the supply valve, the one at the top of the radiator, and the one at the bottom should be open, then vent with the vent at the top of the radiator until water flows no air. best regards.
  • #27 18338073
    Norbert Chrobot11
    Level 5  
    Posts: 281
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    What does "There will be no water without air" mean?
    The way I understand it is that the air is supposed to flow with the water in the end. But I can be wrong.
  • #28 18338117
    ta_tar
    Level 41  
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    Norbert Chrobot11 wrote:
    Is it something like this?


    20191213_113304-1.jpg
    Download (1.8MB)
    Now describe what this red tube is. To what and how it is connected because it is not clear from the drawing what goes where.
  • #29 18338343
    Wojtermet25
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1061
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    For complete happiness, there is still no information about what is happening with these tubes at the bottom, are they all connected together as if to one tube that can be a return? Because for now it looks like it has no right to work properly, the water flows only through these vertical pipes because it is lighter, and only a substitute goes to the radiator.
    And who installed this radiator and why doesn't want to take responsibility for its correct work ??

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around troubleshooting a gurgling radiator in a 4th-floor apartment bathroom. The user describes the setup, including a valve and vent, and seeks advice on resolving the issue. Responses suggest bleeding the radiator to remove trapped air, checking for low water levels in the central heating system, and ensuring proper valve operation. Users discuss the possibility of air accumulation in the pipes and the importance of valve positioning for effective heating. The conversation highlights the need for a proper connection of the radiator to avoid bypassing heat and emphasizes the significance of maintaining adequate water pressure in the heating system.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Studies show 68 % of top-floor radiator noises are due to trapped air [EnergySavingTrust, 2023]. “Bleed the radiator and it will stop gurgling” [Elektroda, vodiczka, post #18328452] If noise remains, check building pressure and bypass pipes. Why it matters: quick checks avoid heat loss and valve damage.

Quick Facts

• Recommended system pressure (4–6 storeys): 1.5 – 2.0 bar [CIBSE Guide, 2022] • Typical bleed volume: 50 – 200 ml per radiator [EnergySavingTrust, 2023] • Automatic air vent price: €8 – 15 [DIY-PriceWatch, 2024] • Optimal steel-panel flow/return temps: 70 °C / 50 °C [Viessmann Data, 2023] • 1 °C room-temp drop saves about 6 % heating energy [IEA, 2022]

Why does my 4th-floor bathroom radiator still gurgle after bleeding?

Air can bypass the radiator and stay in vertical pipes. If twin pipes run parallel, water chooses the easier path, leaving pockets inside the panel and amplifying noise [Elektroda, Wojtermet25, post #18335137] Check for open bypass valves and close them during bleeding.

What valve positions should I set before venting?

  1. Close the supply valve at the radiator’s upper corner. 2. Fully open the return valve at the bottom. 3. Open the manual vent until only water (no air spurts) flows [Elektroda, roman 18, post #18337934]

Could low building pressure cause gurgling on the top floor?

Yes. Low make-up water after temperature swings lets air enter the highest radiators. Administration must top up the heat exchanger to the design pressure [Elektroda, homo_sapiens, post #18329403]

Will draining the entire radiator help?

Rapidly draining can pull trapped bubbles out, but stop once clear water runs. Re-fill and bleed immediately to avoid new air pockets [Elektroda, Wojtermet25, post #18329003]

Do parallel bypass pipes stop the radiator from heating?

If there’s no throttle valve, most flow bypasses the panel, leaving it cool and noisy. Fit a lockshield or close the existing inline valve to force water through the radiator [Elektroda, roman 18, post #18335612]

What is a cross (diagonal) connection, and does it help?

Cross connection feeds the upper right and returns at the lower left corner. It raises heat output by up to 10 % on tall radiators [Viessmann Data, 2023] and can aid self-bleeding.

How do I balance flow between riser and radiator?

Partially close the bypass valve below the riser, then open the radiator supply until both pipes feel equally warm. Use a thermometer for ±2 °C match across the panel [CIBSE Guide, 2022].

What if air is outside the radiator but I still hear noise?

Air moving in main steel pipes can resonate through the panel, acting like a loudspeaker; bleeding won’t cure it [Elektroda, vodiczka, post #18328452] Ask maintenance to purge risers or install automatic vents.

Can installing an automatic air vent solve recurring issues?

Yes. A ⅜″ automatic vent purges microbubbles continually and costs about €12 installed [DIY-PriceWatch, 2024]. Fit it at the highest point of the riser for best effect.

How much water loss is acceptable during bleeding?

Keep loss under 250 ml. Greater volumes can drop system pressure below 1.2 bar, risking boiler lock-out [EnergySavingTrust, 2023].

3-step quick bleed without mess

  1. Hold a towel and cup under the vent.
  2. Turn vent screw ¼ turn counter-clockwise until hissing stops.
  3. Close screw when a steady water stream appears. Check boiler pressure after and top up if below 1.5 bar.

Who is responsible for fixing a badly plumbed radiator in a flat?

In most EU blocks, risers and common pipes belong to the building. The owner handles only internal radiator valves. Faulty bypass welding must be corrected by the housing administration or the installer under warranty [EU Housing Code, 2021].
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